★★★ Hearts and Bones 23

Place a good wire with a stick, then launch up the overhanging podded crack. When the lower crack ends, move left into the more regular handcrack. Wires and cams for the first half, a few #2 and/or #3 camalots for the upper crack.

This crag has been developed with an old-school trad and mixed ethic, bolts are not used when natural gear is available. Try to muster some common sense when deciding whether or not to bolt routes, nobody will walk up that hill to repeat no-star generic slabs.

Most of the cracks at Billy Billy have required extensive brushing to bring them up to a standard of cleanliness which is palatable to the average climber. Routes which are claimed but inadequately cleaned are likely to have the f.a. details "lost", and naming rights handed over to the person who puts in the hard work. Also, if you stumble upon an unrecorded route which is spotlessly clean (and especially if you see a pile of lichen at the base), there's a fair chance that it's somebody else's unfinished business. Whilst there isn't such a thing as a closed crack project, be aware that "brushing debt" is taken rather seriously and must be repaid in full (I'm looking at you, Nick Brown!)