Begehungen in Glasshouse Mountains als verschiedene Ticktypen von PattyD

Took a couple of friends up, chilled day on the mountain.

Great route, great views. Fun day out.

Barefoot solo up and down.

I did not think this was much easier than Worm Hole and that was tricky for an 18.

Quite tricky for the grade.

Easy day out.

The second pitch is magic and on its own it is a classic, but the first pitch is pretty ordinary. The run outs might freak out new leaders. Could be done with only a set of slings to protect the first pitch (there is no gear other than the trees anyway), just clip the first bolt on P2 and stay attached to the tree to belay.

Dan led P1, I led 2 and 3 combined. Excellent climb, gear and exposure. Only just managed to link P2 and 3 with a 50m rope and a little simu-climbing. Some tricky moves in there for a 15.

Fun climb, interesting moves.

Tricky little start but it is all over quickly and turns into easy gerneric tibro.

Jugs... on Tibro... that don't pull off... wish I'd known earlier!

Rain held off long enough to get up this. Fun first pitch but the second two are pretty generic. I led pitches 1 and 3, Dan led pitch 2. Skipped many bolts on the third pitch to reduce drag and eliminate backcleaning (otherwise requires about 16 draws).

Pitches 1, 2, 3 and got rained off so rapped. Dan led 1 and 3, I led 2. Pretty sketchy first pitch in the wet.

Finally found out that this is the climb we did ages ago (date guessed). I just saw the decent looking corner on the way to Prometheus and decided to go up that. Thought we were pioneering an epic new route... but really you can do whatever you want on this section of Tibro. Rapped down caves route. Great day out!

More a test of your head than your arms, 50m is a long way to keep you sh1t together. I almost lost it when I found myself at the crux, 40m off the deck and with a couple of suspect cams 4m below my feet. Staring at three perfect hex placements does not help upward progress when there are no hexes left on your harness. So a few deep breaths and I ran it out to the wide crack where with great relief I jammed in the #3 and dispatched the last few meters. WooooHoooo!

Warm up for the arms.

Warm up for the head.

We defied Mother Nature and her rainy ways. She said f u and opened up the skys when I was at the 6th bolt on P1, nothing like leading tibro in the wet! It dried up and pitch two was fantastic.

Slightly awkward down low then jugs to the top!

Distinctly without ledges that usually mare easy climbs in the glasshouse. Fun climb, plenty of gear.

Really good climb at the grade. I'm not used to having this much gear in the Glasshouse!

More interesting way to start Prometheus I. Guess at date.

First "climb" since the shoulder injury. Climbing is pretty ordinary because it is a lot of bush bashing through ledges interspaced with sections of easy but very poorly protected climbing. But it is still a really fun choose your own adventure style climb. We knew where it started and where it ended, the rest we worked out by climbing upwards!

Awesome! Leading the start of P3 is exciting! Led 1, 3, 4 and 5. Rob led 2. Gear required: #1 C4 top pitch 3. Single set C4 #0.3 to #2 and set BD stoppers on pitch 5. Rest is bolts. Rapped the route with 100m half rope (50m rappels) in three pitches, only just managing to link 4 and 5 with rope stretch. Linked 1 and 2 easy. Grade is a stiff 17 and pretty consistent the whole way except P5 at about 14.

Nice easy trad route with good protection, we went on to complete blabbermouth proper.

Great route, good rock, nice mix of trad/sport and plenty of air. I led 1, 3, 5 and 7, Ian made short work of 2, 4, 6. Variant start is a great trad route in its own right. We went off route at top of pitch 2 and ended up on El Schorcho (21). No wonder it seemed like a very hard 16! At the third bolt I and traversed right to the right line. Pitches 4-7 are pretty chilled after the first three. I soloed the last pitch which goes at grade 10.

Great day out with Jonothan, Amanda, Chris and Sven. Soloed the whole route, some nice exposure but basically a scramble. Me Sarah and Jono rapped down Blabbermouth on the North East buttress but I've previously been up to the summet from that point after doing Black Orpheus, so ticking this climb now.

I led 2nd (crux) pitch, Jonothan led 1 and 3/4 (combined). I climbed the first pitch twice after I dropped our biggest hex at the belay, grrr! Second pitch did not seem too bad, hardly any worthwile gear on that slab but very easy climbing. 3rd pitch was great but insainly run out, Jonothan basically soloed it. On combined pitches 3 and 4 (55m) we only placed 5 bits of gear! Finished up the caves route and walked down the west face tourist route. Great day out!

Mmmm traversing Little bit more challenging than the previous pitch. Great fun. Make sure you have a 60m rope if your rapping this route with a single rope. Especially if you want to combine pitch 3 and 4 for the rap. Loved this entire route.

Really easy after the previous pitch, but great position and enjoyable climbing.

One section on this pitch is hard, easier ground to the right but becarefull of a fall here, you'll take un unpleasent swing into the wall. Stoked to have led this.

Starts to get a bit more dawnting to the end of this pitch, I combined it with P3.

Seconded after Dan, just really an access pitch to the real climbing. Although the last few meters are more interesting.