Begehungen in Glasshouse Mountains als Tick

Cheeky tr on lower off … quite the move

5 star review for Jack Rowell's School of Climbing.

Ripped a jug off after crux

lovely day out. nearly stitched ourselves u by starting right where the path meets the rock. turns out you scramble a bit right and down to start. in shade from 11am onwards.

Felt a little harder than what was graded for me but after the 3rd pitch I was into multi Tibro mode and the pitches felt more comfy. We are in early April and the cliff was in the shade all day (left car park at 8am).

Aid is fucking hard. The potential for the first confirmed A5 route was always in the back of our minds with manky carrots and weird homemade bolt plates littering the route(???)

I think I may have doomed us by saying “those aren’t rain clouds, are they?” on the drive in.

They were.

Approach was okay, but god damn the descent down the tourist track was spicy. One handed bum sliding down wet rock while the other hand was holding my phone flashlight. (Why tf would I need to pack a head torch, we’re only starting at midday).

Seemed like we both found our rhythms in the final third of our jumaring/leading - so I guess next time (?) will be a bit smoother.

Highlight was throwing for a hook move (???!!?). Hit a radical black streak of slimy sludge with zero friction and realised only way up was to pull out the old sky hook. Realising that there was no chance it’d hold on the slime, I had to stand on a slippery wet carrot and throw out max span right to get a jug to hook on. Couldn’t weight it sideways so had to basically jump right to weight it. Talk about engaging.

Definitely type 2 fun. Might do again. Maybe.

Late start, benighted, and rained on.

Unprepared gumbies learn how to aid climb on old carrots. Pros of long BRs? They're super easy to clean because you can slide the plate off while the draw is still attached! Managed with 7 bolt plates and ~25 draws without needing to lower to back clean. Couple of easy skyhook moves get the heart rate up.

Rained the whole walk off, 1/2 head torches, unavoidable victory slide at the base of the mountain, KFC.

Good day out to repeat this one. Very windy day. Got a light spattering of rain, nothing bail worthy. Finished up atop the caves route chimney, and hiked the rest of the way to the summit.

Came down the tourist route, but this was more effort than it was worth. Sticking to the descending via Caves route in future.

one rest, will go on lead

Decent climbing. First pitch was pretty straightforward for the grade, everything else was pretty casual scrambling. So good to get outdoors and top out Tibro. Was pretty hot, but cloud cover and a good wind kept things sane. We simul-climbed from the midway rap anchor of pitch 2 to the top. About an hour on the wall. Descended via caves route to cave 1 then rapped down Zeitgeist.

The second pitch climbs to the very top of tibro. Howling wind with the crazy amount of air below you certainly makes it a euphoric experience.

Dayumm the second pitch is the money pitch on this thing! Superb sequences! Quite absorbing trying to find the route without any chalk. Go get it!

we're back baby.

gear: single rack to 3, could double .75 to 2. Save the 3 for the top. A longer sling or two for the first part.

Cool Link-up Multi. The last little bush bash up to Halfway House was type two fun.