Routen in Upper Cliffs

Scramble up rough terrain at far right of cliff. Probably shares top with chossmaster. Soloed, 2012

The obvious crack 5m left of Classic Gas where the track meets the rock, just above the "rings of shame". Up the crack with good pro to the ledge. Sling the pillar on the far left with care and belay. Rap from the sling.

This route starts where Revenge of the Chossmaster finishes. The climb heads straight up the cliff with one pitch about halfway up and a cruxy last pitch. Will add more details in coming days.

A mini-adventure fun ramble of vintage accent that takes you from the bottom of the Main Upper Cliffs to the summit proper. May well have been soloed before. The route is the most intuitive and protectable line from beginning to end. Please refrain to trundle blocks, the instability and precariousness over the exposure of some section add a great alpine-like feel to the route.

1. 15m (13, crux) Start 1m left of 'The Revenge of Chossmaster'[416785278] up to ledge and TB on gear.

2. 25m (5) Traverse up and diagonally to the right with enjoyable exposure, negotiating some death blocks and grassy ledges with fair pro for 15m then 10m up to a giant bird nest belay. TB on gear.

3. 10m (-) Traverse diagonally left past a solid steelwood tree and up to the 'Nursery Cliffs'[13454575] ledge. TB.

4. 28m (10) Start 1m left of 'LRO'[15558367] up 3m then step left on hidden juggy wall and climb up on exposed vertical face until topping out at the summit proper of Ngungun. Sling the boulders and TB.

Good old-fashioned climbing. Marked 'CG'. Bridge up the corner until situated on top of the pillar. Step L and climb the juggy groove to a TB. Good protection.

Consider bringing some tat and some new mallions if you are planning on abseiling off. As of August 2013 the existing anchor tat is looking very sad and the mallions very rusted. A more permanent solution could be a chain around the pillar.

This a nice line, I suspect it has been done before. Climb CG to the tree mantle, step left to next corner. Finish at CG anchors, possibly slightly trickier to protect in spots than CG.

Start: About 10m east of Angie. Some grooves on the face of a grey pillar.

1. Up pillar face for 20m. Step left to belay ledge.

2. Straight up crack to summit. Comments: Superb easy wall climbing. Technically very easy, but quite scary.

An exciting multi-pitch, and the first of four classic long routes. The second pitch makes a great rap-in climb.

1. 17m (17) Start up Visions of a Transmitter, then traverse right at about 15m to stand on top of the fern ledge (DBB).

2. 28m (15) Layback through small roof on right, and up corner (FH) to ledge. Clip second FH on steep black wall and crank through on big pockets. Up the featured crack and face to finish at tree belay.

This obvious twin cracked corner 5m L of Classical Gas, and about 2m right of Icehouse, soars upwards for 30m until confronted by a roof. Traverse R (or climb R through this) and climb the juggy face to finish. Beautiful, well protected climbing.

Climb 'Visions Of A Transmitter' until you reach the roof, then jug haul directly through this with surprising exposure!

It's magic! Classic, sustained climbing with excellent protection. Climb Icehouse past the tree at 5m to ledge on R. Climb the skyrocketing corner directly above the ledge to roof. R through this (big hex) and directly up the wide crack above.

Start: Start 2m L of Visions Of A Transmitter below the dead tree at 5m. A superb climb up an exposed face crack which is easier than it looks. Climb the juggy face for 35m until the final crack section makes things a little tricky. Belay off chains. The protection is good, but because the rock is a bit weak, be sure to place a lot and make sure it's bomber. You can rap off with one 80m rope, otherwise join two ropes, or scramble another 5 meters to the summit and walk off.

Start 1m R of 'Sticky Fingers'. Up slab to shaft. Up this with awkward placements to ledge. Clip FH and blast through bulge. Continue up shaft on RP's, small wires and a FH to ledge. Finish directly up 'Hex Heaven's flared corner.

Start 1m right of 'Sticky Fingers'. Climb this to its belay tree or chains. Sling this and traverse 2m R onto arete. Up left side of this on good holds up limited protection to pillar. Finish up the namesake flaring corner to tree belay. A somewhat contrived offering since the addition of 'Six Sided Hell'.

Up the small slab 4m left of Icehouse to the crack with good protection to the tree ledge with belay chains.

Marked 'A'. Just L of 'Sticky Fingers' at the obvious flared chimney. Bridge smooth chimney with good (albeit small) pro in the R crack to the ledge with tree and bolted anchor or continue up 'Hex Heaven'.

Marked 'B'.

1. 15m (10) Climb the easy twin grooves to the L of 'Angie' to tree belay.

2. 30m (18) Up onto top of short pillar, then fire directly up the face above with minimal protection until the juggy face crack is reached. Climb this great crack line to the top and tree belay.

Start at the thin crack running up the blunt pillar 4m to the R of 'Keyhole' 's leaning pillar. Climb straight up the pillar with difficulty, then traverse L to the ledge below the start of 'Pocket Full Of Kryptonite'. 2 FH's and small cams.

Marked 'KH'. Scramble up the vegetated gully to the base of the leaning pillar which forms a chimney. Climb up and inwards to the 'keyhole' and squeeze through this with difficulty. Bush bash upwards to a tree belay. Leave this one for the bushwalkers!

This novel route climbs the outside of 'Keyhole' 's leaning pillar. Access by 'Bloodsucker' 's first pitch or rapping in from 'Pocket Full Of Kryptonite' 's chains. Belay on R of pillar's base. Scramble up right to clip first FH, but route is best started directly from the base of the pillar. Balancy start passing 2 FH's, then natural gear to top. Scramble up 3m to belay at base of 'Pocket Full Of Kryptonite'.

Start: From the summit of 'Mt Ngungun' walk west along the ridge towards Mts Coonowrin & Beerwah for about 50m until a pair of hangers with two rings each are found on the front of a block facing outwards. There's a ledge to stand on and you can see the rings clearly on the face from here. Rap off these to the first ledge you encounter with a DBB.

From the ledge climb straight up past 4 RBs to the rap chains.

"Havin' some fun...". Marked 'FG'. Straight up the deep hand crack which becomes very vegetated at the top. Finish easily up blocks. Good pro but poor climbing. Belay off tree.

From the second stance on 'Feeling Groovy' take the L trending crack and the finish up the top of 'Heartache'.

Marked 'H'. The start offers good climbing with a nice hand crack but soon the climb deteriorates to the likeness of its two predecessors.

Marked 'ST'. A contrived hand crack which becomes very vegetated. Not great.

Marked 'DP'. Up corner crack and good protection to ledge with chains.

Marked 'LT'. Start up the nice hand crack but this soon turns in a wide off-width. At the widest point, squeeze through the crack and chimney up to ledge. Rap off or continue up one of the crack lines above.

Marked 'RS'.

1. Up fun pockets and cracks to ledge and the weak tree belay. Bomber gear in crack for a belay.

2. Up the easy chimney.

Marked 'G'. Juggy climbing up the groove to a grass tree blocking the corner. Climb around this and up easy crack to finish. Good protection throughout most of this long route.

Marked "SK'. An impressive route for back in the day. Hard and desperate climbing up the thin shallow crack leads to easier ground and the good crack above. Be careful with protection down low.

Marked 'M'. Desperate bridging up the under-protected flared chimney leads to easier ground. Take many small cams and wires.

Marked 'BD'. Bold face climbing up the blank wall with only small RP's as protection. Once past the first 10m, it eases to fairly juggy climbing and a tree belay.

Start: About 10m east of Bridge Over Troubled Waters. Below flared shallow chimney.

1. 20m. Up chimney.

2. 30m. Bridge up corner and up. Comments: Quite interesting. Harder than it appears from below.

Marked 'CR'. Up the broken wall with good protection to a small corner. Climb this past a chockstone and onto a ledge. Bridge up the hard chimney on the L and surmount the overhang to another stance. Finish up the twin cracks to a tree belay.

Marked 'FK'. A nice looking crack but the climbing is only average. Finish on halfway ledge of "Carmen Revisited" and rap off.

Marked 'PC'. A very contrived thin hand crack which eventually joins 'Bridge Over Troubled Waters'. If you can avoid the temptation to stray, this climb is quite hard and sustained.

Marked 'BOTW'. Easy crack climbing leads to a stance at the section of missing pillar. Traverse right into 'Previous Commitment' and bridge boldly up the twin cracks. Above this, climb the tricky twin cracks to finish. Jamming technique useful.

Marked 'CUFA'. The off-width start sees few ascents and rightfully so. It features poor rock and discouraging thrutching. This wide crack eventually narrows down to a magnificent twin cracked corner in an exposed position.

Marked 'NRC'. A fluctuating crack which is only reasonably protected. At the roof traverse right into 'CUFA' 's excellent top half.

Marked 'CC'. Hard for the grade. Under-protected up a thin crack line to a ledge. From the ledge, climb crack system to top. A confident leader is required.

Marked 'GC'. Hard for the grade. A bold and somewhat under-protected crack climb. This thin subtle corner requires confident crack work. Similar to 'Cantankerous Cantelope'.

Marked 'BB'. Boulder the start until the crack opens. Climb this under-protected groove to a small ledge. Finish up the corner above.

Start 2m L of 'Bourgeois Bullshitter'. A stonking line which is being loved to death. Pretty soon the holds will be worn off. Boulder to a high RB, then a hard move follows. Once on the small ledge, clip an RB then fire up the demanding face past another 2 RBs. Bridge above the last RB for 5m (natural pro) to ledge and anchors. Rap off.

Original carrot bolts replaced with ring bolts December 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland.

Marked 'STB'. Start at the thin corner 2m L of 'Feargrounds For Insanity'. Up corner with suspect pro. Needs cleaning in the crack. Hard for the grade.

Marked 'SF'. A very hard start up the thin twin cracks leads to an easier top half. Pro is sparse in the lower section so careful placements are needed.

Marked 'UVC'. Sunscreen optional. The obvious angled off-width on the right side of the leaning pillar. Good pro and sustained climbing all the way to a tree belay.

Marked 'A'. The enjoyable scramble on small broken pillars and bush at the far left of the main wall. Follows the exposed crest trending right across the tops of the other climbs for an exposed finish to the summit of Ngungun.

Marked 'RS'. Well named. Easy groove at far R of crag.

Marked 'DD'. Pocketed corner that gets progressively easier, with one small cam placement halfway up.

Start 1m L of 'Dishonour Before Death'. Good climbing, and a much better version of 'Silver Lining'. Up black, L facing corner crack with increasingly reliable pro to meet 'Silver Lining' at lip of roof.

Up pillars past vegetation to base of large roof-capped corner. Up this with tricky pro on R wall and arete to roof. Through roof then up easily to top.

Marked 'BL' for some reason. Up the flared chimney and over the roof. One bomber placement about two thirds of the way up the chimney and not much else.

Marked 'TL'. Juggy crack with minimal pr to ledge, then climb crack to top.

Marked 'SL'. Straight up crack with good gear to ledge. Finish up easy but poorly protected pocketed face as for 'Walk The Line'.

Marked 'WL'. The beginners classic! Up the juggy face crack with good pro to ledge. The top 4m tier is spectacularly pocketed, but poorly protected.

Marked 'ML'. Up the crack, over the small bulge and up to top.

Marked 'CGA'. Pretty standard juggy climbing up to ledge, through mini rooflet, then up face crack above.

Marked 'CG'. Similar climbing to Cee Gee Also, but slightly harder.

Marked 'AL'. Good easy crack climbing up a nice groove.

Marked 'FL'. Up the crack right of ledge with tree on it.

Climb the pillar left of 'Fine Line' and continue on up. Good gear. The infamous "loose pillar" has been bolted to the cliff with room for gear behind.

Marked 'AT'. Pillar to sinuous thin crack, then past vegetation to steep juggy top.

Marked 'A'. Up the crack then thrutch up the black squeeze chimney to finish. Removes plenty of knee skin!

Up between A and 'Ballsup' onto vegetated ledge. Mantle up and place high runner in A's crack, then fire directly up the shallow open-book corner with technical protection to finish up wide crack. Yes, it's contrived down low.

Marked 'B'. Climb up the R side of the pillar with poor pro to start, then R up the juggy face crack. Crux is poorly protected.

Start as for 'Ballsup', then bridge up the shallow chimney on the L using many big jugs.

Marked 'NL'. A reasonable line which lacks the bomber pro of some of the other climbs.

Marked 'CL'. Enjoyable but under-protected climbing. Take large cams.

Marked 'PL'. Another good lead for beginners. Up nice groove with adequate pro.

Marked 'LRO'. Trend up and to the left onto a very juggy white wall. Climb this to top with good pro. This climb has some of the biggest holds in South-East Queensland!