Zeigt alle 11 Routen.
Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
23 | The Kloske Conection
1
18
25m
2
23
25m
Climb to the top of P3 on the Ross Miller Route and scramble 10m L to DBB, Joins the anchors of P6 RMR.
Erste freie Begeh.: Steve Kloske, 2013 Erstbegehung: Steve Kloske, 2013 | 50m, 2, 7 | |||
20 | ★★ Sideshow Bob
1
10
28m
2
13
30m
3
15
30m
4
16
45m
5
13
20m
6
20
30m
7
16
32m
8
10
32m
This is a modern incarnation of the historic North-East Buttress route. It does cross the original line in several places, although the original route remains largely undisturbed. Access: From the old climber's carpark, take the right fork of the Tibrogargan track, heading north. Follow the track until you reach some chairs and a picnic table, after which you'll ascend some steps to find a small trail leaving the main track on the left. Follow this to the base of Candy Mountain. Around 15m past the right hand side of Candy Mountain is a vegetated weakness faintly marked NEB. Start up easy buttress about 10m left of vegetated weakness. "Sbo" marking has disappeared, but the route can be identified by a fixed hanger just left of a small tree at around 6m in height. Gear: Fully bolted route with some runouts, except for 20m on pitch 6. Single rack to #2 Camalot, focus on small wires and cams. All DBB for belays, some rust on mallions but still functional (as at Aug 2018).
Descent: Tourist Track or Caves Route (4x raps), or as for Blabbermouth/Sunburnt Buttress. Do not use Caves route raps if you left shoes at the base of the climb as this variant requires a lot walking between rap points. Erstbegehung: Wayne Meith & A. Anderson, 2005 | 250m, 8, 6 | |||
11 | ★ The North-East Buttress
1
20m
2
28m
3
37m
4
27m
5
33m
6
18m
7
11
37m
8
33m
9
33m
10
33m
Access: From the old climber's carpark, take the right fork of the Tibrogargan track, heading north. Follow the track until you reach some chairs and a picnic table, after which you'll ascend some steps to find a small trail leaving the main track on the left. Follow this to the base of Candy Mountain. Around 15m past the right hand side of Candy Mountain is a vegetated weakness marked NEB. Standard rack up to #3 Camalot, focus on small wires and cams. Warning: 7th Pitch (crux) is dangerous and does not come recommended. It features a manky old bolt ladder which has not fared well after 50 years in a coastal climate. Check "Escape from NEB" or "Sideshow Bob" for bail options.
Descent: Tourist Track or Caves Route (4x raps) Erstbegehung: Pat Conaghan & Grahame Hardy, 1964 | 300m, 10 | |||
14 | ★ Escape from NEB
1
14
30m
2
13
35m
A traverse that deserves a description. First used by FA party of North-east buttress to escape the route before the aided crux section.
Erstbegehung: P. Conaghan & G. Hardy, 1965 | 65m, 2 | |||
16 | ★★ Blabbermouth
1
12
28m
2
16
34m
3
16
33m
4
13
20m
5
14
28m
6
13
32m
7
10
20m
Start at L-hand corner of alcove, 8m L of 'Sunburnt Buttress' before the ground drops away.
Rack: to #3 friend. Erstbegehung: Ross Ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2004 | 200m, 7, 6 | |||
13 | ★ Blabbermouth VS
Start at L-trending crack 3m L of 'Sunburnt Buttress'. While this is nominally the variant start to 'Blabbermouth', it's so much better than the original that nearly everyone begins 'Blabbermouth' this way. Follow the crack, solid gear placements abound. Merges with the original a few metres before the DBB. Erstbegehung: Darrin Carter & Ross Ferguson, 2005 | 22m | |||
11 | Rock Garden
1
33m
2
37m
3
40m
4
11
37m
5
40m
6
37m
Start about 100m right from NE Buttress below obvious large chimney (10m left of the pillar with FH's). This route is loose and has tricky route finding.
Erstbegehung: John Tillack & Dennis Stocks, 1966 | 220m, 6 | |||
19 | ★★ Sunburnt Buttress
1
18
28m
2
16
34m
3
19
25m
4
16
36m
5
14
45m
6
10
20m
Start at the 'Rock Garden' chimney at R end of alcove, 10m L of the 'Peeping Tom' pillar at 'Shadow Glen'. Marked with a small square.
Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith & Lee Cujes, 2000 | 190m, 6 | |||
21 | ★★ El Scorcho
1
21
53m
2
19
24m
3
14
32m
To start, climb the first two pitches of either Blabbermouth or Sunburnt Buttress.
Pitch 2 and 3 have a couple of optional trad pieces. To finish, either continue up last pitch of SB (10) or rappel Blabbermouth (3x60m raps) or El Scorcho (3x60m raps) Erstbegehung: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2005 | 110m, 3, 15 | |||
18 | ★ Tommy Dodd
Erstbegehung: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2004 | 100m, 3 | |||
20 | ★★ The Chris Mann Route
Pitch 3 can be abseiled on a single 80m rope, otherwise you'll need to join two 50 or 60m ropes to abseil pitch 3. Erstbegehung: Gareth Llewellin & Ross Ferguson, 2004 | 99m, 3, 23 |
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