Hilfe

Upper Tier

  • Bewertungskontext: AU
  • Begehungen: 2
28

Beschreibung

The large pinnacle featuring Obelix is a good landmark.

At the left end is a large west-facing slab with Sinister Dexter and several other climbs on or near its left arete. Left of this arete the cliff-line faces north and runs parallel to the creek.

Einschränk. übernommen von Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Ethik übernommen von Grampians

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Tags

Einige Inhalte wurden unter folgender Lizenz bereitgestellt: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routen

Route(n) hinzufügen Topo hinzufügen Neu sortieren Stapelbearbeitung Konvert. Grade
Schwierigkeitsgrad Route

Cracks up slabby buttress just right of "STOVL".

Erstbegehung: Heather Phillips & Alan Hope. Easter., 1982

A good short roofing problem.

Start: 30 metres right of "Lonesome Cowboys" is a buttress with a diagonal overhang.

30 metres right of Lonesome Cowboys is a buttress with a diagonal overhang. Straight up buttress to centre of diagonal overhang and cross it via flake to easy slab.

Erstbegehung: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran. Easter., 1982

Crack 5 metres around right from "Dresden" then right-leading ramp.

Erstbegehung: Kieran Loughran, Keith Egerton & Peter Watling. Easter., 1982

Fragile.

Wall starting 5 metres right of Dodge City, veering right and then left.

Erstbegehung: Keith Egerton & Heather Phillips. Easter., 1982

Preliminary cleaning came close to decapitating some onlookers. The crack system through the overhangs 4 metres left of Miss Kitty.

Erstbegehung: Hugh Foxcroft, David Gairns & Gordon Talbett, 1979

Wide corner and roof 5 metres right of "Saloon".

Erstbegehung: Nicholas Reeves, Peter Megens, Hugh Foxcroft & Kieran Loughran, 1979

Downmarket. Buttress 8 metres right of Sayyadinna.

Erstbegehung: Peter Megens, Nicholas Reeves & Hugh Foxcroft, 1979

Follow cracks to the overhang and pull around into the corner. When the corner ends, move right below an overhang to the top.

Start: Start 8 metres right of "Pixi", 23 metres right of "Obelix" below a right-facing flake.

Erstbegehung: Peter Watling & Ceri Law, 1979

Thin rib until gully can no longer be ignored. Step right and go up thin crack in right wall.

Start: Start at thin rib 15 metres right of "Obelix"

Erstbegehung: Peter Watling & Ceri Law, 1979

A detached route.

Start on the left side of the pinnacle, 4 metres right of Tumbleweeds.

Move up to a ledge and traverse left above large overhang to front of pinnacle. Go straight up to the top of the pinnacle. Step across the gap to the main wall and finish straight up.

Erstbegehung: Keith Egerton & Peter Watling, 1978

Quite good.

Start: In the chimney left of the pinnacle a short corner leads to a roof.

Corner to roof and traverse left below roof to crack. Up crack and finish up the right wall.

Erstbegehung: Nicholas Reeves & Kieran Loughran, 1979

Will never rise above the pack.

Start just right of Nuptial Bliss.

Take a break in the initial bulge then follow the diagonal crack up right past the top overhang. Step back left into a crack that becomes a corner.

Erstbegehung: Keith Lockwood & Peter Watling, 1981

Disappointing

Start 8 metres right of Bitter Taste.

Climb the right-curving flake leading to a break in the roof. Above the roof, take the left-hand line.

Erstbegehung: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran, 1978

Loose and poorly protected.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Sihaya" just left of the arete.

  1. 37m (17) Follow a flake on the arete onto the right wall. Continue over a bulge to a slab below the roof and traverse back left to the arete. Climb the dubious flake on the arete and move left to belay.

  2. 13m (-) On up the line.

Erstbegehung: Peter Treby & Peter Watling, 1978

Delicate and good all the way. Melanie got squashed by a block while belaying.

Start: Start in the middle of the slab left of "Sihaya"

  1. 40m (18) Thin diagonal, up to and up tiny corner then leftward line to stance above overlap.

  2. 12m (18) 'Flake' and corner.

Erstbegehung: Melanie & James McIntosh (alt), 1992

Fine climbing up thin cracks.

Start: Start 20 metres right of the large tree of Sinister-Dexter, just left of a corner-gully.

  1. 35m (14) Climb the cracks just left of the corner-gully to a small ledge.

  2. 15m (14) Move left to a slight corner then back right above the overhang to the front of the buttress and go up.

Erstbegehung: Peter Watling & Gabrielle Pellissier, 1978

Start: Start at the juggy line a few metres left of "Sihaya"

  1. 1m (20) Up the line, pass the perched block with care and belay on the slab.

  2. 25m (18) Follow the line diagonally left, then up to break in roof. Pull through and up slab.

Erstbegehung: Sharyn George & Glenn Tempest(alt), 1997

Start: Start at the large tree.

  1. 25m (15) Straight up and up a crack which leads up the right-hand side of the nose to a ledge.

  2. 35m (15) The crack, through the overhang and up.

Erstbegehung: Peter Cunningham & John Van Der Leest, 1978

No pot of gold.

Start 1 metre right of Melange, 3 metres left of tree.

Go up and then traverse right and up a thin crack. Go diagonally left to a chimney and finish up this.

Erstbegehung: Rowan Cooper & Ravi Pannell (alt), 1978

Start: Start 4 metres right of "Semuta", 4 metres left of tree, 1 metre right of arete.

  1. 40m (16) Up and left to the arete and up the arete. Move into the chimney of "Catch The Rainbow" to belay.

  2. 15m (-) Finish up a crack through the overhang left of the chimney.

Erstbegehung: Rod Young, Kevin Lindorff (alt) & Trevor Dance, 1978

Indirect.

Start near the left side of the left buttress, at a slight rib 8 metres left of a large tree (start of Sinister Dexter), 3 metres left of major arete.

Up and follow a thin crack diagonally left to an orange wall. Traverse left below orange rock to steep arete. Follow arete and crack diagonally left until the angle eases. Go straight up the slab to the final crack of Melange.

Erstbegehung: Peter Cunningham, Gabrielle Pellissier & Peter Watling, 1978

Climb the shattered-looking orange and grey wall to a hand-crack running up left. Follow the crack for 10 metres until a hrad move up and right leads to a short crack. Climb the crack, step right and move up to a bulge which is climbed on the right (crux). Continue over bulges to finish up aV-groove.

Start: Start 10 metres left of "Semuta" and just right of a shallow corner of shattered rock.

Erstbegehung: Ian Waring & Gordon Talbett, 1992

Start just left of the shattered corner left of Flash Gordon is a grey wall leading up to the mid-point of the prominent diagonal line. Up the grey wall to the prominent diagonal crack. Go left up the crack for 3 metres to a slight horizontal break on the right and a jug. Step right onto the Arapilesean wall and up to a faint nose. Left around the nose then right and up.

Erstbegehung: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1992

Good climbing on steep rock. Take several each of #4 and #5 RPs. Climb Screaming Teeth and traverse through a weakness in the overhang at the top.

Erstbegehung: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1992

Climb the shallow corner with an excursion onto the left wall to reach teh start of the major diagonal line. Follow the diagonal line to a slight horizontal break on the right and a jug. Step left onto the wall and climb the line to a blocky ledge. An easy wall leads to the top.

Start: Start at shallow corner olf shattered rock between "Screaming Teeth and "Flash Gordon".

Erstbegehung: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone started up Screaming Teeth (20). Gordon Talbett added the start as described, 1992

Up easy wall and crack to the major diagonal weakness. Up left-facing corner and seam to BR. Either go up past another BR (22) or step right to a crack and up to ledge. Up easily to finish.

Start: Start 15 metres left of "Screaming Teeth"

Erstbegehung: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1992

Up the thin grey face to a ledge., step left to crack and overhang, then easily up to top.

Start: Start 3 metres right of the gully at the left side of the buttress.

Erstbegehung: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1992

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Selected Guidebooks mehr Verbergen

Autor(en): Steve Toal

Datum: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Autor(en): Steve Toal

Datum: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Autor(en): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Datum: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Unterkünfte in der Nähe mehr Verbergen

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