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Beschreibung

This route started life as an aid route and covers some interesting territory. Unfortunately the first pitch is very dirty. It was cleaned for the free ascent but a soak at the top of the pitch means that it gets dirty very quickly. Also, the section shared with 'Dinosaur Gully' detracts somewhat. The star is for the climb in a clean state.

  1. 21m (21) Climb twin cracks and traverse to corner on right. Up corner, exit left to bolt belay.

  2. 28m (20) Step right around overhang and up to second one. Left and up wall to ceiling. Traverse left and up (dangerous loose flake) then up to next roof. Left to arete. Up to second belay of 'Dinosaur Gully'.

  3. 24m (15) As for 'Dinosaur Gully' pitch 3.

  4. 30m (23) Thin crack up and right from middle of ledge to corner. Corner to terrace.

© (kieranl)

Historie der Route

26 Apr 1969Erstbegehung: Chris Baxter, Keith Lockwood (var). Pitch 1 freed : Simon Mentz, Andrew Eastaugh 1988. Pitch 1 variant, pitch 2 freed: Roland Pauligk, Tim Beaman (alt) 24-09-1977. Pitch 4 freed: Simon Mentz & James Falla Easter 1989.

Warnungen

Position

Breite/Länge: -37.19250, 142.50420

Einige Inhalte wurden unter folgender Lizenz bereitgestellt: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Schwierigkeitsgrad-Referenzen

23 Schwierigkeitsgrad
23 Pocket RockGUIDE: Black Ians Rocks and Central Grampians Update
23 South Eastern Grampians

Ethik

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

übernommen von Grampians

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Schlüsselworte in Bemerkungen

Selected Guidebooks mehr Verbergen

Autor(en): Steve Toal

Datum: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Autor(en): Steve Toal

Datum: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Autor(en): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

Datum: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Unterkünfte in der Nähe mehr Verbergen

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