A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Einige Inhalte wurden unter folgender Lizenz bereitgestellt: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Top Cave 8 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Top Cave
- Summary:
-
Alle Bouldern
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
Einschränkungen
Difficult access may have resulted in this spot not being surveyed despite being 'around' lots of permitted climbing areas. There is no known CH.
Ethik
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Smog
Upper Cave. Sit-start on the down-sloping jug and reach out right to gain the upper rampline. Topout if you're game enough. | V3 | ||||
| 2 |
★ Fog
Upper Cave. Sit-start in the LH corner and climb out to the good left-trending rampline to finish as for 'Smog'. | V3 | ||||
| 3 |
Nutts to Butts
Upper Cave. | V11/12 | ||||
| 4 |
★★★ Dead Heat
Upper Cave. Rumoured to be a total classic at the grade - and it looks like it too. Sit-start left of 'I Feel So Holy' and motor up through the pockety featers on the steep wall to the big slopey break. Shuffle rightwards to a high-ish topout. | V11 | ||||
| 5 |
★★★ I Feel So Holy
Upper Cave. Has quite a reputation... One of the best problems for its grade. Starts just left of 'Donald'. Sit-start on two opposing sidepulls and climb the central 'rib' line directly via a very bad sloper, a pinch, and some sneaky footwork. Can also be done via a LH sequence using a big move to a bad sloper (RH) - then to the slopers on the lip, before moving up to the high jug. Solid at the grade either way. | V7 | ||||
| 6 |
★★★ Donald
Upper Cave. A V3 that looks like a V5... Sit-start on the rightside of the big hollow scoop and climb up to the big sloper. Topout leftwards via a better hold. | V3 | ||||
| 7 |
★ Family Duck
Upper Cave. A great looking arete-type weakness that isn't too hard for the grade. Climb the obvious line just right of 'Donald's' start and head right to finish. | V2 | ||||
| 8 |
Salmonelli's
Upper Cave Single problem right of the main business. | V2 | ||||
Uhuru film channel 2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| V2 | ★ | Family Duck | |||
| Salmonelli's | |||||
| V3 | ★★★ | Donald | |||
| ★ | Fog | ||||
| ★ | Smog | ||||
| V7 | ★★★ | I Feel So Holy | |||
| V11 | ★★★ | Dead Heat | |||
| V11/12 | Nutts to Butts |