Routen in North Grampians für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Long deadpoint to slopey crimp from slopey pockets.

Starts with the same moves as Inspector Gadget then head out left to crimp rail & finish up at Ultra Deluxe

Starts left of 'Butt Gravity'. Sit start up on the ledge with the large pocket on the vague arete and make a big move into the huge slot. Make further big moves through the lip, then head right through the huecos following the obvious line leading to a top-out up and right. Has a reputation for being hard for the grade, particularly if you are short.

Follow 'Silly Putty' to the lip, then head directly up through juggy flakes.

Sit start low under the roof matching a slot, then out to a pocket, crimp, then BIG move up and left to a good 4-finger pocket. Join 'Silly Putty' at the top. Sharp.

As per Grampians bouldering guide.

Start as for 'Butt Gravity' but head directly out to traverseline of Race Eater. Traverse right all the way to the start of 'NSAM' and finish up this.

Start as for the original problem then head left and up through the sloper and edge. Rarely done.

The RH line. Starts on a hold below the sloper traverse line then gains this and heads right via some small crimps, slopers to eventually finish up the V1.

Uhuru channel

Another variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts as for 'Minus', then bisects the 'Worm Saloon' traverseline via a big move out to the lip.

Sit start with side pull and pockets. Desperately to small crimps then dyno to lip when falling off.

Same start as connection through roof to hard mantle with pocket over low lip at side of cave.

Franz

The direct to Da-Lai-Lahmung going straight up from the big pocket via a big move and topping out.

Hiroshi channel

Line of FHs through roof left of 'Antics'. Start as for MD. 2 boulders broken by no hands rest. Bolted by Monty in 2004.

Low awkward start at the base of the flake line, traverse right on some holds in the seam then make a big move to continue up on jugs.

This line breaches the steepest part of the main wall on perfect rock, with some amazing moves to get through the bulges. Start at the left of 2 cracks that head up the the lower part of the main wall. Blast up through some very steep bulges, with some great slopers for slapping.

The gobsmaking left leaning line in the centre of the cave finishing near the end of 'Tazer'. One FH at start and one right near the finish. The rest is old school trad! Malcolm flashed it for the second ascent.

Start in the back of the cave on the massive jug rail. Make your way to the lip and traverse all the way left using tricky footwork, then head up as for Curtain Call to match on the sharp jug.

This line also has a direct variant that heads straight up from the lip to the crimp rail and finishes as for Encore. This line differs to Grand Opening as you can use the left side of the wall.

Start as for "The Show Must Go On" on the massive jug rail. Go directly up to thin edge on the lip and finish the same as Encore. This line differs to "The Show Must Go On" as it eliminates the left sidewall. It requires tricky foot work, big biceps, and excellent tension to get out of the cave. The bat hang is one way, but is there another?

Start: Takes a right-trending line across the wall starting just right of 100 Pound Club's start holds.

This line starts from a low sit start (left of the route 'Let X=X') using an undercling, then traverses left across small crimps to better holds in the break on the final face. Finish at the high pocket. Very reminiscent of 'Seam Grip' at Andersens.

Sit start off the pedestal left of Snow Mike, bust straight out the roof with some tension before topping out the cliff.

Start at possum overhang, make moves into undercling and then pop out right into tim and kyles big love.

Sit start to central line through roof to join PO.

Upper Cave.

Has quite a reputation... One of the best problems for its grade. Starts just left of 'Donald'. Sit-start on two opposing sidepulls and climb the central 'rib' line directly via a very bad sloper, a pinch, and some sneaky footwork. Can also be done via a LH sequence using a big move to a bad sloper (RH) - then to the slopers on the lip, before moving up to the high jug. Solid at the grade either way.

Uhuru film channel

Satoshi

Middle Cave. 2016 guidebook grading

Upgraded from V5 to 7 in 2016 Bouldering Guide. Which seems fair!

Lower Cave.

Lower Cave.

Great line on left side of face climbing up to the seam left of definitely and avoiding all the holds up the centre. Not too hard at V7 but the hardest moves are at the top so a bit engaging. Can be climbed from stand or sit.

Eliminate.

Start as for 'Glass Half MT' but don't escape left and stay compressing up the prow. Stay off the high jugs and the left foothold. Finishes with a big move to the top right of the prow then tops out around the right.

Peter

Sit start between GHMT and BMR below the twin seams. Out to lip via the obvious thin but positive pockets.

Sit start. No crouch or stand start. Big shouldery move to the seam and pass crimps to top out.

Jason

Sit start 4m right of Wiggly Boy between the tree and the boulder on the shallow pockets in the vague seam. Move up on edges and mantle.

Sit start with left hand in pocket and right hand on side-pull.

Start as for "To Hate To Love" to the ledge before the roof. Mantle the ledge up to a high LH two finger pocket and continue delicately up the headwall to better holds.

Sit start on slopey rail.

Sit start under arete on the seam.

Same start as Conga Fury but instead of compressing your way up, shift left and follow the crimp line around the arete.

A nice variant to this variant is to sit start on the edges, a bit further left to the start described above, at about V4.

Jamie

Small LH seam and good RH edge. Pounce to a pocket then top out up the groove. FA Alistair Robertson.

Sit start on a good crimp and move up the blunt arete. The V7 (original line) traverses into crimps then slopers on the right side of the arete. Finishing direct on the arete goes at about V4.

Wonderful climbing based on the sharp, undercut arete right of Dance of Life. The crux is very hard, but very short. If you pull on the crux bolt it's an excellent 25M1. Take a full rack incl. 2 #3.5 cams, and 15-20 quickdraws.

Start directly below the impressive hanging arete which soars upwards from the R side of a large roof. This is just L of where the walk-in meets the cliff, and is where the track along the base balances along the top edge of a large smooth-faced boulder.

1. 35m (27) 10m easy grey slab, beware some friable rock, to desperate orange slab with a FH. Follow flakes to the steep groove on the R side of the arete. Crux past FH to break, then L and up L side of arete, 3½ cam & FH. At big break move R to belay in small cave.

2. 15m (24) On up face, veering slightly right-wards to top.

A good aid climb turned into a great free climb. The first pitch is worth a star or two in its own right and is justifiably very popular with Taipan virgins.

Start 25m R of The Great Divide, and 8m R of The Chick is Trouble.

1. 25m (23) Up shallow orange flake/corner to the large deep break, then traverse 5m L to pocketed roof (an alternative but inferior start is as for TCiT). Over roof (RB) on pockets, then follow flakes up and L to a ledge and DRB (20m rap).

2. 30m (27) Some great moves in prime positions, but unfortunately not very sustained. Up to smooth wall, then step R to the desperate slabbing crux (FHs) to a good rest. Up the incipient crack to the bulge and over this with difficulty. Up and L to a good slot and up to another slot and then a fingery wall leads to the top. This pitch has 4FH's and a lower-off shared with Daedalus.

A good option if you think Father O eases off too much after its crux. Start as for Father O, until just past it's 3rd bolt. Now head up the R side of the scoop, through bulge past 2 FHs and 2 RBs (thin crux direct past 2nd RB - deduct a grade (and maybe some self respect) if you deviate L around this bolt into Father O) to break. Trend R from break to top. Take cams & wires. If that's not enough harder climbing for you then throw in the worthwhile direct start, from the middle of the belay ledge and heading up L (good tiny trad) to Father O's first bolt.

Variety! The famous HB dyno route as immortalized by Simon Carter's photos in the early 1990s. Take a full rack up to #2.5Fr, including Aliens, RPs, and sling runners (and/or double ropes) to minimise drag. Start as for Sirocco.

1. 35m (27) A great series of features. Follow pitch 1 of Sirocco to the horizontal. Swing R along this to tricky white corner and gain slab (FH). Trend R and up technical slab and finally the infamous big dyno between buckets (battered FH), to lower-off (25m, but a 60m rope barely reaches if it's still through all the gear so tie a knot in the end).

2. 35m 32. The daunting beautiful red wall above to a rap anchor at the top. Yet another contender for the best pitch on the wall. Renamed Orange Desire by Quentin; more like 33 according to Alex Megos.

Another excellent 15m variant to Serpentine. Follow Serpentine pitch 2 for 12m until halfway up the fridge hugging. Trend R and up past bolts to loweroffs (30m to 1st belay, 52m to ground). The loweroff is somewhat diagonal - be careful not to end up hanging in space.

The stunning final pitch is one of the very best on the wall. Before you get there, there's a hard crux on the 2nd pitch. The hanging 2nd belay is best avoided by linking pitches 2 and 3, while pitch 2 is easily worked from the ground if you have a recalcitrant belayer. Start on the elevated ledge, 7m R of the top of the boulder and just R of the small tree, at a short fat flake on the slab.

1. 20m (21) A worthwhile pitch in its own right, although all the mantles are somewhat above gear. Up the slabby flake then 4m R along breaks. 3 slithery mantles lead to rap anchor on ledge (18m). Cams, med. wires.

2. 13m (27) Follow fused flake up L with increasing difficulty, then a draining fingery traverse back R to 3 bolt anchor (8m to 1st belay, 25m to base).

3. 20m (24) Brilliant. Tough moves out slopey 3m roof flake, past the only remaining original bolt - consider a small cam just below to back it up. Now blast up the very steep and very exposed water groove past 4 bolts and a spicy final runout. A wire can reportedly be finagled in on the top runout, but with all that air below your remaining energy is probably better spent in braving the final moves without it! DRB rap anchor (48m to ground).

This linkup provides an easier way to do Tourniquet p2 as a single monster pitch from the ground. Climb Mr J p1 to it's 2nd last bolt, slopy traverse R to middle of black streak (cams), spicy up black streak into the spacious cave. Join Tourniquet pitch 2 up the arete.

2 bolt boulder start to RS. Classic!!

Underrated and sustained. Graded 27 for many years although Simon originally thought it was 28. Some people love it and some people hate it. Six u-bolts and an exciting runout at the finish. The last bolt was added ten years after the first ascent to stop a potential 14m fall!

Climbs Garry's old project up and left from third bolt on Weak Boy past a cool boulder. Was a bolting (and glueing?) controversy, with a dodgy SIKA hold.

Start: Start as for 'Weak Boy'.

Sit start a couple of meters to the right of the end of the 'The Spurt Traverse'. Start on small edges heading up an left to the good pockets and final victory jug.

Should be obvious due to the name, the nature of the crux, and the whereabouts of the 30ft slab under the final move. Sit start and make a HUGE move out of a RH pocket undercling to the massive jug out on the lip, either direct or via the intermediate sloper. What ever you do - don't come off the match!

Start as for To Catch a Thief (V4) on the two big pockets, link this into Remains of the Sheep (V6). The ledge is out.

A variation, but one of the best lines here. Starts as for 'Chas Remains' to the 3-finger pocket, then gaston right and continue rightwards past good pockets and a pinch, finishing as for 'Between the Sheeps'. A great 13-move pumpfest. Watch the landing on the final move.

A direct line out from the start of When We Were Kings to a 'thread' undercling, then big move out to the large pocket, then finish directly (same finish as for 'Remains of the Sheep'). Watch the landing! Note: The original write up finished as for 'Chas Remains' and was given V7.

The name becomes apparent as soon as you take position in the sit start (there's a tree between your legs). Awkward low start then up via crimps and a fantastic finish jug.

Burning bright.

Start beneath the overhanging corner 20m R of 'The Rubicon'. A burly start leads into the corner which takes you to the roof, which has three manky pitons (and bomber gear). From here there is a tough move at the lip and 2 FHs before the lower off.

This steep and powerful roof looks like fantastic climbing, but unfortunately the bolts have not aged well and it is mostly only 4-5m off the ground requiring care to avoid groundfalls.

Start: Start 25m R of 'Gilgamesh' at the R end of the low rooves.

Blue Mountains-like rock and style. Sharp, crimpy, steep and a great landing.

An 8-move traverse into a big dyno.

Another dynamic problem.

Wolf/Liew

Powerful corner climbing at its best. Start about 20m right 'Technorganica' around the right side of the arete. Stick clip the first bolt. Climb starts about 2m right of corner, climb up to horizontal crack, traverse this to gain corner proper. Continually powerful moves up corner to exit it on the left then traverse back right over the top of it to DB lower off. 'Extension' is an open project.

Vague sit-start in the middle of the wall - then up the central line via a small sloping feature and shallow pocket. As fingery as it gets.

Isolated highball problem away from the main 'Citadel'.

Callum

Start as for SM, but avoid the pocket and stick to the arête. Slightly contrived, but offers some impressive and committing climbing.

Kyle Meredith-Peck

in a small 'toilet' cave directly behind ammagamma 20m, stand start matched in left pocket, big move right to pocket then directly up to slot, top out through gap in roof. very good could have been done eons ago but couldn't find any history on it.

A direct start to 'Skim Milk' - finishing as for that problem.

Start as for Full Cream and make a big throw right to blocky holds trending up to finish at the highest hold on the face. Good and dynamic.

monkeydoing channel

The FA was nearly stolen by my younger brother Daniel who fortunately fell off after the crux. Start 3m R of The Fear of Music. The thin face to a very thin and hard boulder to reach the break. Step R a move and take the R side of the headwall to the DRB loweroff. The old carrots and hangers have been replaced with Fixe ringbolts 3 Mar 17

(Is this Slit Your Throat as per http://vicclimb.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/Grampians-update.pdf )??

Start up Crouching Leopard Hidden Orchid to the crux then head left to the pocket of the V3-4. You only get the V7 if you traverse into the V3-4 above the side jug and don't use it.

Start as for Vulcan Grip and head left and up increasing in difficulty to a final mono before popping to the welcome jug

Excellent climbing with a very technical finish. One of the only Scott Camps projects that he actually managed to get up!

Starts as league of Nations, Goes into UN, then finishes as good fight direct. Some linkups are pretty lame, but imho this is f#cking ace.

Bloody hard finish which can be done two ways.

Start: Line of FH's up black seam just to the right of 'Amnesty International'.

Sit start on the right arete on the juggy feature. Make your way up the arete to top out.

Overhung arête right of Minute Man.

Crux slab hold may have broken.

Sit start buried in the back of the cave on a good undercling feature.Climb out left through the roof to tricky moves gaining the lip and up the arete and dihedral feature. Glorious line!

Start as for Mr Knox but make hard moves out right of the roof to a slopey rail and follow the obvious line up to the top.