Routen in North Grampians für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Link up of 'Butt Gravity' into Race Eater Variant.

As for 'Happy Camper' but keep traversing leftwards to join 'Butt Gravity' and finish up that problem. Crux is the big move to the 4-finger pocket (on 'Butt Gravity').

Climb NSAM to the traverseline, then head left along the line of small crimps. Completely finger size dependant. Watch your back. 2016 guidebook grading

This and the next 4 problems are located on the raised ledge of the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave, within view of 'Gay Hip Flexor' down and to the left.

Low roof starting with a sit-start on a terrace and heading directly out to the lip and up overhanging face.

Liting

A gourmet for sure, starts on an obvious rail, finishes on top. two small crimps lead up the center of the face, and a big move to the jug/lip. simple and sweet

Beta dependant. Standing start. Up to poor pocket, then big move up to large pocket. Re-arrange the hands, then out right to the intermediate edge, then big span (or trickery) out to the jug on the arete. Match this and motor up on more jugs to top-out.

Hiroshi

Stand starts with a left hand slot and a right hand shallow pocket, move up and left on some pockets then top out onto the slab above.

Starts as 'S.O.S.' but climbs straight up.

Start on two underclings (don't stack pads) then move up to the rail and finish as for 'Drowning Dicaprio'.

Start matched on the giant jug, move up to the pocket and jump!

Big move to small edge, then big move to jug

Start: From low horizontal

Popular, despite the fact that it is the only boulder of the crag and requires a considerable hike in to get to.

Middle Cave.

Traverse from the LH corner (sit-start using underclings). Hard move into the traverse, across and into 'Lonely Heart Club' via a classic drop-down move, finishing as for that problem.

Middle Cave

Lower Cave.

Starts around 4m left of GHMT. Was climbed as a huge dyno. Has also been climbed via some pretty poor intermediate slopers, which most consider to be v6.

Sit Start under the arete and punch straight up the nose on hard moves.

Takes the seam from a sit-start right of 'Sick Nutter' and just left of 'The V2 Sit' problem.

The burly twin of "Ministry of Love". Sit start on the off angle slopey rail and head left to the slot and jug.Traverse the overhang right on pockets to a sloper and edges and a tricky top out.

Start as for "Ministry of Love" and move to the lip. Traverse left on slopers to finish up "To Love To Hate".

The left arete starting with a RH pinch and low LH on the arete. Top out. Compression problem.

Start at The Oyster, make moves left on crimps on the face and top out on the far left of the boulder on pockets and mossy slopers.

After the long years of Steve and others being spat off before Dave cleaned it up, it's apt that this genus includes the Spitting Cobra! The strongest line on all Taipan, this is the left-facing arete bounding the right side of the massive scooped out area right of Serpentine. It is more closely bolted than most other Taipan routes, although they're getting a bit the worse for wear. The whole thing can be worked from the ground using a 70m rope (but only just!). Start as for Serpentine.

1. 25m (27) Gain the arete and follow it, mostly sub-25 but with an insecure dyno past the 2nd bolt. Consider a cam before the (rusty) 1st bolt, not least to avoid knackering yourself if you come off the tricky next moves.

2. 15m (30) Continue up the arete with much better climbing. Unfortunately it gets increasingly guano-stained up high, so take a brush, but you can avoid the worst/highest section of guano by moving left before gaining the anchor (37m rap).

Established after a tip-off from Jake the snake Bresnehan. "Named in honour of a great man, and possibly the best climb on the wall". Given 31 originally but has quickly been knocked down a grade. Start as for Mr J. Up most of Mr J p1 then, instead of going diagonally left past the last bolt to the cave, continue directly up. The crimpy orange wall has 4 more bolts and takes you about 4m R of Mr J p2, right to the top. A 70m rope can lower off the last bolt to the ledge - just! It's only a sport route if, like most grade 30 climbers, you skip the trad gear on Mr J.

1. 20m (30) An 8m direct variant to Venom pitch 1. As for Venom for 12m until established on the L side of the groove. Where Venom traverses R, continue direct up the L side of the groove past 2 RBs to rejoin Venom at the lower-off.

2. 20m (27) As for Venom pitch 2 until past the bulge and into the cave. Then take the L arete of the cave/scoop to lower off (80m rope recommended). Rebolted 2017. This pitch is more easily approached via Mr Que.

Another absorbing steep wall on excellent rock. Julian Saunders attempted this route direct with a huge sideways dyno (thus removing his nipples!). Eventually Nathan solved the climb by bailing around this dyno crux by a big traverse right.

Sustained slopy masterpiece that some reckon is the best thing on Spurt. It climbs a blazingly direct line of pockets and crimps. Typical Julian bullshit runouts to sketchy clips with the technical crux several metres above a bolt. 6 bolts.

Start on good holds, climb right into hueco and continue up to round pocket. Top out over lip

Start left of Kamikaze and head left.

Rat Salad into Rat Poison. Mega!

Sit start on edges, bust out the roof via shouldery moves and finish up right. Either downclimb or shuffle along the shelf to top out.

As for 'The Beginnings...' then break right and up via extreme undercling move to the slopey break.

Low sit-start and up via a big move leftwards. Possibly lost some holds since the first ascent.

Start: 3rd climbing cave along from the 'Sweet Sensation' area.

Takes the obvious flakeline through the big roof (see pic below), uphill from 'Helmut'. Yet another dynamic problem.

The original problem from a standing start - to mantle the finish.

Classic low traverse starting from the large LH flat jug under the roof - then heading rightwards via a big hueco and an even bigger sloper (crux) - finishing up the Endamax'. Desperate for those of short stature...

Sit-start on the big hueco pocket - then head directly out through the big roof and up the thin face - to finish on the obvious jug line. Thin.

Stand start on the obvious wide crimp rail. Finish as for LFL.

Only climbs on RHS of big seam.

Stand start in the break, follow seam up and left to high top out.

Horrible landing.

Hard sit start on edges to difficult mantle just after start of TTT

Roman

Sit start on the right side of the hueco and make a big move up to slopey holds and continue up hard moves on bad holds over the bulge left of White Destiny.

Start as for Ethanol and up to flakes in the roof. Follow the line of holds right, moving through the roof to the other side and mantle over the nose of the boulder.

Thought to be much harder than V5.

Stand start from jug then climb up and top out.

Sit start matched on right-facing edges. Move to a gaston then up right to gain a jug and top out.

Located on the face other side of the flake.

6m vertical arete up the hill from Sydney Highrise

Direct eliminate version to As the Crow Flies (V6). Dyno from the start holds straight to the same hold you're jumping to on As the Crow Flies.

Sit start on the juggy holds under the roof. Move back to a bad undercling and make a hard move to the pocket on the arete. Finish up Golden Oldie.

Start on slopey holds in the roof, head straight out and up through heel hook trickery.

Climb Rodeo Girl and head left to the arete and up. Bad landing.

Start as for Running Man and traverse the horizontal weakness 6m right via hard crimpy moves to big pockets and top out to the right on good holds.

Sit start matched in the slot under the roof. Finish up pump action.

Start as for Running Man and traverse into finish up Ridunculous.

Start as for Running Man and traverse into finish up Pump Action.

The longest pumper on the wall. Start as for Running Man and traverse into finish up Last Waltz.

Low sit-start on the bottom-most jug, then head out past the 'handlebar' and onto the big sloper. Now cut out left via a big move to the slopey pinch, up to the pocket - then back right to the break. Match.

Start as for the original problem, then when you get to the big sloper, make a huge dyno for the break. A variety of methods exist.

Pulling off the ground and doing the first move seems the crux. Starting from a sharp L hand pinch, moving the right hand from the start to a shallow undercling, then L up to a slopeing pocket. intermediates exist before the huge ledge finish. 3ish moves?

Un-repeated? Short, smooth and hard.

Start: The right hand hanging corner from the terrace above 'Gunboat Diplomacy' and 20m left of 'Guinea Pig Flake'.

Hard grit 'Grampians' style. Effectively it is a grade 30 solo. Repeated by UK grit master Ben Heason and confirmed at English E8 6c.

Start: Climbs the northern arete of the large boulder (Legolands bouldering area) which is directly opposite 'The Territorial Imperative'.

A popular steep powerful flake and pocket climb. One of the first routes of this style done in the Grampians. The climb eases up considerably in the upper half.

Start: Start 15m left of 'Sandinista' at the well chalked flake crack.

Daniel Ortega? Classic sustained line of pockets up a very steep wall. Six FH's and a fixed thread.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'Sandinista' at the pocketed crack. Stickclip first bolt and clean/dry holds before starting.

One of the best all trad lines in Australia. Brilliant pocketed corner on the best rock anywhere and an inspiration for all hard climbers. This was the first grade 30 in Australia done outside of Arapiles.

Start: The superb hanging corner about 15m right of 'Sandinista'. It finishes at the same point as 'Sandinista'. Gain access to the corner by stepping in from the ledge to the right.

The direct finish to the previous problem up a bit of blankness just right of the pocket.