Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mt Stapylton Campground gesperrt Campground Boulders | |||||
V4 | ★★ Ultra Deluxe
Same start as previous problem but head right through the twin pockets then up through twin edges and top out. | 5m | |||
V4 | ★ The Claw
Starts right of 'Inspector Gadget'. Sharp pocket (LH) to slopey edge, then pocket to jug. 2016 guidebook grade | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Ross's Problem
Sit start with the a left edge and right hand pocket and head straight through the roof via a slopey rail followed by a big move to a deep pocket. Make another big move to the good edge on the lip, then directly up for the jugs. | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ Minus
A variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts just left of 'Butthole Surfer', then heads directly out through the roof in the direction of the No Sex With Mushrooms boulder. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Raumschiff Enterpriess
This problem is located on a seperate boulder behind the Da Lai Lahmung area. It takes the major line from a sit start then through the roof. | 3m | |||
Mt Stapylton Campground The Guardhouse | |||||
23 | ★★ Line Of Sight
First cracked bolt has now been replaced (2022), fifth bolt on the route is now also cracked(2024). Best to stay off until all the bolts on this line have been replaced. Possibly the best route at the Guardhouse. Wave to the scout hoards at Staplyton Campground as you pull to glory through the ceiling. Located on left side of wall. Reachy orange goodness to start to reach prominent roof cave. Over roof and up right side of subtle arête to final juggy wall. 5 UBs and double UB lower-off. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2006 | 15m, 5 | |||
24 | ★ Felonies Under the Radar
A punchy start (sandbag?) leads to a sustained finish through and around the roof. Stick clip the first bolt, then four more to the anchors. 3rd bolted line from the left: RB then FH then RBs the rest of the way. Erste freie Begeh.: adam demmert, 2008 Erstbegehung: Adam Demmert, 2008 | 11m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Miss Communication
Short punchy number. The 4th bolted route from the left with the white stained scoop in the middle. Up slopers to roof heuco. Over this on incuts then one final tough move to jugs. Chain anchor. 4 RBs. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 10m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★ Little George
Named after George the baby gecko, that hitched a ride on a backpack all the way to Brunswick... causing havoc at Jac's place for two weeks before being returned to the Grampians! Follows left-trending line of four ringbolts in centre of crag just right of big scoopy hueco in rooflet. Stroll through delicate start just left of first bolt, locate the secret hold at second bolt, and march your way to glory over steep juggy terrain. It can be extremely difficult to put a draw on the third bolt because the ring is recessed quite deeply (it depends on what type of 'biner you use, some skinny ones go on easily, others are impossible). Double RB lower off. Erstbegehung: Jacqui Middleton & Neil Monteith, 2003 | 14m, 4 | |||
24 | ★★ Ranger Danger
Weaves around black streak on far right side of main wall. Bouldery start up slopers and slots to easier ground. At halfway head slightly right to rest stance then up past RB and crux dyno. Finish up steep jugs. Five RBs and DRB lower-off. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2003 | 13m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ My Body is a Cage
Start off block, head left under 2 bolt along tricky rail a up and back right to jug and 3rd bolt, head up to anchors shared with Tech Noir Erstbegehung: Dick Lodge, 6 Aug 2023 | 12m, 4 | |||
Mt Stapylton Campground Sentinel Cave | |||||
23 | ★★ Media Puzzle
Good pumpy workout on nice orange rock. Starts at left end of cave at small well chalked rooflet. Stick-clip first bolt. Out left across crux roof past two RB's then up scoops on jugs (2 RB's) to good rest. Step right and thug through steep territory past final RB to jugs and DRB lower-off. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, Joe Morgan-Payler & Jacqui Middleton, 2003 | 16m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ Media Puzzle Extension
An excellent bonus finish to 'Media Puzzle'. From double ringbolts monkey upside down on jugs out right along the horizontal break for 4m past 2 extra FH's then up to chains (crux). November 2016 - first FH on extension is loose! Erstbegehung: Peter Daish & Damian Hall, 2003 | 18m | |||
23 | ★ Far Lap
A long scary trad traverse from the fourth bolt on 'Media Puzzle' across to the first bolt in the roof on 'Antics'. The middle of the traverse is very un-protected, with ground fall potential very likely. Erstbegehung: Gareth Llewelin, Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2005 | 25m | |||
23 | ★★ Stepping on Snakes
Classic steep thugging. Mantle onto slab then up very steep horizontals to final roof dyno. Five RB's and double RB lower off. Watch your back when lowering off. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2002 | 14m, 5 | |||
Mt Stapylton Campground I Forget Walls Main Cliff - North | |||||
23 | ★★ Dagwood Dog
A little short but has awesome sustained and technical face moves. The second ring bolted route up the middle of the clean face on the left side of the block. Sun from around lunchtime. Rap rings at belay. | 12m, 5 | |||
24 | ★★ Ignorance & Bliss
Gently overhanging with great moves on pockets then a steep finish via a big scoop. | 12m | |||
23 | ★★ Lactic Intolerance
Middle of the proud orange face hides a tricky move before venturing through the wild roof flake. The headwall can also be climbed for the full tick but adds significant rope drag. Use the fixed hardware and imagination to clean without too much hassle. | 20m, 9 | |||
23 | ★ Confirmation Bias
5m R of RM. Bouldery fun with some killer moves. Don’t let the seasonal waterfall and somewhat scrappy rock at the start put you off. Seeps at the start (to put it mildly) after rain. Final RB can be tricky to spot in the heat of the moment and is skipped by some. | 15m, 7 | |||
Mt Stapylton Campground I Forget Walls Main Cliff - South | |||||
23 | ★★ The Deal
The clean and pumpy ring bolted face right of the Don. Beautiful pocketed start leads through a technical sequence of quality moves before jugs to the top. | 13m, 5 | |||
Mt Stapylton Campground Titanic Boulder | |||||
V4 | Left for Dead
Start as for Jugged on triangular hold and head right on slopers and crimps to finish as for Jugged. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Nested
SS with pockets on right side of small but deep cave. Technically up and left via seam and pockets in face to top out . Sit start with pockets on the right hand side of the low but deep cave. Move up to holds in the seam and left to pockets around the bulge and finish p the face. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ Knob Jockey
SS on slope edges under nose. Back through roof via slot and knob pinch to top out. | 3m | |||
Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area Mount of Olives Shangri-La | |||||
24 | Hidden World
Starts at tree against cliff. Bridge up tree till you can reach break above slopy ledge. Now power your way to the top. Erste freie Begeh.: adam demmert & @cathdv, 2008 Erstbegehung: Adam Demmert & Catherine de Vaus, 2008 | 15m, 4 | |||
24 | ★★ Kingdom Triangle
Links the fantastic wall of The Vanishing Kingdom into Deborah Triangle's corner at a much more reasonable and sustained grade. Use long sling on the bolt at the bulge. | 20m | |||
Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Rust Bucket | |||||
24 | ★ The Forge
| 12m | |||
24 | ★ Blink
| 15m | |||
24 | ★ The african queen RHF
| 12m | |||
23 | ★ The African Queen
| 12m | |||
Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Unnamed Cliff | |||||
23 | ★★ Gifted
Direct, sustained and well protected. Start: Start 5m L of arete Erstbegehung: Will Monks, Joe Goding & James Pfrunder, 2004 | 27m | |||
24 | Dead Or Olive
An impressive line, even more so now that is free. Start: It\\\\'s the huge orange corner 18m right of 'Harbinger'.
Erstbegehung: Barrie Noye & Roland Pauligk. (var), 1969 Erste freie Begeh.: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson, 1991 | 75m, 2 | |||
24 | Dave Cebar Route 1
Good climbing but serious. Start: Start on dark left arête of grey/black wall in decent gully. Up Erstbegehung: David Cyber (onsite ground up ascent), Joe Goding & Jacqui Middleton., 2002 | 22m | |||
23 | ★★ Deep Blue
Start: Start at TPCK of TCA. Up 2m then up and Right on good pockets, to horizontal break (FH). Right to join "Energise your soul" Erstbegehung: Mark Rewi & others Erstbegehung: Mark Rewi, Josef Goding & Damien Heath, 2004 | 30m, 1 | |||
Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Olive Cave | |||||
23 | ★ To Bee a Monkey
A very steep link-up of 'Bees Knees' and 'Spunky Monkey'. Up 'Bees Knees' to the diving board, place some optional medium cams then traverse right into the super exposed finish of 'Spunky Monkey'. Route needs to be back-cleaned or 2nded. Erstbegehung: Catherine De Vaus, 2008 | 20m, 6 | |||
Pohlner Track & Smith's Rd Area The Ravine | |||||
23 | Violent Crumble
The overhung bolted arete just right of a deep chimney where the track first meets the cliff. UPDATE: Second last bolt is loose. Erstbegehung: Muki Woods, 2008 | 18m, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ Pain Criminals Link-up
Makes 'Portland Criminals' doable for the average person - and gives good sustained climbing. Up 'Pains Ford' to third ring bolt, then traverse right (FH) across horizontal break and large pocket into 'Portland Criminals' and up this to top. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2008 | 18m, 9 | |||
24 | ★ Hung Low Bay
Warm up your fingers before tackling this feisty route. A soft tick if you can crimp. Begin at slab below very shallow left leaning corner about 4m right of 'Pains Ford'. Crimpy past three ring bolts to juggy shelf. Easier wall above past another four rings to lower-off. On the second ascent Rich managed to snap off three key crux holds, upping the route from 23 to 24. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith & Rich Ham, 2008 | 19m, 7 | |||
Mount Zero Pangaea Walls | |||||
23 | ★★ First Love
Kachoong on roids! 50m uphill from Sport Crack is a wall capped by large roofs. This route climbs right edge of wall then swings left across massive roof flake and straight through the guts of the overhang above. 7 RBs. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2012 | 15m, 7 | |||
Flat Rock West Flank | |||||
23 | ★ Uranium-234
Starts up the amazingly pocketed wall then moves delicately left through scoop to small flake. Trend diagonally left to anchors. Erstbegehung: anthony pattison & carole lunny, 27 Aug 2016 | 30m, 10 | |||
23 | ★ The Enola Gay (Link-up)
For those that like their bombs dropped in a straight line we have The Enola Gay .The result being a nuclear wasteland. Starts up Uranium-234 till the 4th bolt then step slightly right to join in on the 5th bolt of nuclear wasteland. Continue up to the anchors of nuclear wasteland. Erstbegehung: anthony pattison & carole lunny, 28 Aug 2016 | 20m, 10 | |||
24 | ★★ The Fear Index
Start 3m R of The Hot Zone, just L of Melting Moments. Up the edges and over the overlap almost in THZ, then work R till you get your R hand in the top flake of MM, then L on under clings and through the roof to join THZ for its last 3 bolts. Erstbegehung: MB | 9 | |||
23 | ★★ Melting Moments
Delicately up orange wall to first overhang. Bouldery moves over overhang, up and R to second overhang. Brushed wall to top. Retro bolted with permission from the FA. Start: Start 7m R of 'Yellow Cake'. Erstbegehung: Shepherd & Fearnley, 1986 | 30m, 8 | |||
24 | ★ Fascists and Threats
4m R of MM, up the pockets to a hard move and little jump into the big pocket. A few more moves get you the head wall. Erstbegehung: MB | 8 | |||
23 | ★★ Unraveling Fukishima
A bit weird with a couple of tricky moves, especially if you're short. Starts 5m left of the landmark flake of Cooking in Chernobyl. After mantling past the second bolt, move left up flake then super reachy traverse right to cross Cooking in Chernobyl. Finish up pumpy headwall. 7 RBs + fixed sling. Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 18m, 7 | |||
Flat Rock Bellerophon Wall | |||||
23 | ★ Optimal Arousal
Steep. Boring adjective but exciting climbing. Start: Start below overhanging wall a few m R of 'The Short Orange Corner'. Erstbegehung: Peter Martin & Ed Neve, 1987 | 20m, 1 | |||
Flat Rock Epsilon Wall | |||||
23 X | New Imperative
It's imperative that you don't fall (E5, 6a?)! Still, the ethic of this route is vastly superior to the partly bolted contrived boldness of Death on a Stick or 'Diazepam' (until it got retroed). Start: Start 5m R of 'Epsilon Plus'. Erstbegehung: Jarod McCulloch, Peter Martin & Richard Bugg, 1989 | 20m | |||
23 | Ordinary Bolted Arete
Big shiny ringbolts up short arete left of 'Crossfire'. Only has about 4m of truly indepedent climbing. Erstbegehung: Christoph & Simon Wheeler, 2003 | 18m | |||
23 | ★ Walking and Falling
Lots of interest in this climb. A long bouldering traverse just off the ground leads to a cruxy move guarding great climbing up an orange streak. It is possible to place small cams on the traversing start but they're more trouble than they're worth as you're so close to the ground - just stick clip the first bolt if you're concerned. Start: Start about 8 metres right of the Let X=X corner and just left of the boulder on the right side of the wall. Erstbegehung: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2007 | 20m, 6 | |||
24 | ★★ Riding and Climbing
Good thin face. The first bolt is quite high... in fact it's out of reach even with some brands of stick clip! If soloing up to the first bolt on brittle rock doesn't sound appealing, things can be kept much more sane with a small cam (eg 0.4 camalot). Erstbegehung: Steve Chapman, Kevin Lindorff & Rob Booth, 2010 | 20m, 6 | |||
23 | Skippity Do Dah
Sherpa Tim leads the geriartrics to glory up this short but intense number. Erstbegehung: Tim Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 2009 | 10m | |||
Flat Rock Epsilon Wall Bouldering | |||||
V4 | ★ Down Under
Very low sit-start then traverse left - then back right to finish on the good jug. The direct straight up from the pockets (dyno) is V4/5. | 3m | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Wall | |||||
24 | ★★★ Moon Dreams
Exhilarating climbing up the middle of the wall. Not trivial to find the route and gear on the traverse. Access via the start of CC (FH), traverse across wall to FH, then up short crack to hard moves R past FH, and awesome final headwall. Gear to size 2, camalot. Erstbegehung: Goshen Watts & Troy Mckenzie, 4 Apr 2017 | 30m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Death to All Actors
Song from Melbourne Duo 'Time for Dreams'. ...the luminous Amanda Roff muses, “when I wrote the song I was thinking of Norman Mailer’s “Ancient Evenings” where at one point in the afterlife you must swim through a river of actual human shit”. (which might explain the first pitch of AE)!? Start as for Moon Dreams - across to FH on wall, then R to 2nd FH over lip of roof (and a hidden hold). Now up and R through steep terrain / horizontals (ignore thread on AE) and up to Arete and welcome jugs even bigger than those on the rest of the route. A pretty cool excursion. Trad belay - rap down into gully from higher rap station on pillar. Take med-large nuts and cams to size 1. Erstbegehung: Goshen Watts, 10 Jan 2022 | 40m, 3 | |||
24 | Ancient Evenings
Looks like a sensational overhanging headwall; but has a very difficult crux move. Start as for Cool Intentions in the major chasm just left of Agent of Cool.
Erstbegehung: Nick White & Richard Smith Early's, 1990 Erstbegehung: 1990 | 30m, 2 | |||
24 | Pressure Drop Direct
As soon as you are out of the scoop and onto the face look up. 2 FH take you through the lovely rippling grey wall above. Finish at the ledge, with another chain/ring combo (50m rope is long enough to lower off). Start: Start as for 'Pressure Drop'. Erstbegehung: Tim Marsh, 1998 | 22m | |||
23 | ★ Spinoza
The definitive word on ethics? Wall 4m R of Zola. Originally done in 2 pitches but pitch 2 is worthless and it is now a 1 pitch sport route. Start: Start 4m down L of 'Starstruck'. Erstbegehung: Kieran Loughran, Simon Mentz & Louise Shepherd, 1991 | 20m | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Central Buttress | |||||
23 | ★★★ Missing
A beautiful thin line leads to a large roof at the top of the cliff. You have to be good at placing RPs and other small wires, although the advent of microcams is a boon for this route. Take a rack up to #3½ cam, add 2 sets of RPs and plenty of microcams, a couple of extra middle-size cams for belays, thin sling and many quickdraws. A bolt was placed on the first pitch around 1996 because the original starting stump disintegrated. Start: Start by scrambling up 'Technical Ecstasy' for 15m to a terrace on the L where the real climbing starts.
Erstbegehung: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman March-April. Dave Vass made the first lead of pitch 1, before any fixed gear existed. 1st continuous ascent Steve Monks & Louise Shepherd 1989., 1988 | 75m, 3, 2 | |||
23 | ★★★ Technical Ecstasy Direct
Might get bumped up a grade once the third ascentionist gets back from cleaning his undies to give us his thoughts. The 18m of new climbing is only 2-4m L of the original second pitch, and can be escaped at a few spots. Otherwise, this version of the second pitch is every bit as good as the magnificent second pitch of 'Missing'. Start: Start as for TE. 1) (25m 18) Do a short version of pitch 1 of TE, belaying above the great initial vertical crack, 5m below the fat flakes. 2) (35m 23) Blast up the classy seam 2m L of the fat flakes, eventually rejoining the original second pitch for it's wild final cracks. Needs a full rack including a #8 hex, plus extra draws & multiples of micro-cams and micro-wires (and a good ability to place them!). Can be very well protected but gear is quite tricky in 1 or 2 spots. The direttissima finish to this pitch, through the bulge onto the top slab, was also done at bold 19 (and is shown in the ACA topo) but the original finish is better. 3) (15m 18) As per the original. Erstbegehung: Kevin Lindorff, Will Monks (both lead crux & after TR rehearsal), 2009 | 70m | |||
23 | Imbecile
Very reachy, add two grades if you're less than 190cm tall. The original climb bashed its way up to gain the line R of 'Mania' and followed this line until 24m below the top then aided the final pitch. Start: The advisable approach is to abseil from the top of 'Mania' into the gully R of 'Mania' and do the final pitch. Erstbegehung: Andrew Thomson, Adrian Davey 19.8.70. FA Simon Mentz, Kieran Loughran & Louise Shepherd., 1991 | 91m, 2 | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Grey and Green Walls Petite Fleur Face | |||||
23 | ★ All Mod Cons
start about 4m left of The Great Foaming Espresso Machine/ Shining Path. Stick clip the first bolt. Up past this and two more to a fixed anchor. Erstbegehung: Kevin Lindorff | 12m, 3 | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Probably Dave Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ Maybe
Start on the large sidepull, move left, then up to finish up Probably Dave. Erstbegehung: 2017 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★ Probably Kate
Stand start on side pull in middle of face, up to crimp, then move right to the fin, to finish up Definitely. | 5m | |||
V4 | ★ Probably Dave
Sit start right of the arete, then move left to finish high on the arete. Erstbegehung: Kate Sips, 2017 | 5m | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Simon Says Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ Some Days You Score
Sit start on the jugs on the arete. | 3m | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Amazing Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ The Animator
| 5m | |||
V4 | ★ Media Construct
Starting from 'Sick Nutter' traverse left through the slopers to 'Paranoiac Critical Town' then top out. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ The Atavist
| 3m | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Anti-Inflammatory Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Celebrex Traverse
Stand-start with high left crimp and low right crimp. Pull on, slap good pocket and punch to better holds on the lip before traversing right. Erstbegehung: Jamie, 30 Mär | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Aspirin Traverse
Sit-start as for "__" but traverse rightward on jugs and crimps to the amazing right hand pinch. From here, head slightly up and rightward to finish on more jugs. An excellent eliminate of the jugs is possible - (like Tim Tam Traverse but harder), but still a project. Erstbegehung: Jamie, 30 Mär | 4m | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Tiger Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Future Wolf And The Gay Parisian Milk Incident
Project no. 43 Erstbegehung: 2013 | ||||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Upper Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ Jab
| 4m | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Trackside Boulders Paul's Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Right El Westwood
| 4m | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - North | |||||
24 | ★★ Posy
A selection of the various flowers, plus some nice poses of its own. Start on top of the big boulder perched on the ledge between Atomic Tadpole and Tokyo Rose (but it's a better more sustained pitch if you start up UG). Trend R up the easy slab (adequate pro found on the R). Cross Tokyo Rose, then join Ukrainian Geranium for 8m over bulges to the start of the upper slab. Now traverse 3m R to FH in major grey streak, then up to break. Move R to join Sordid Orchids Direct past it's final 2 FHs, to rap anchor (28m). Full set of cams and wires, and several long draws (or double ropes). Erstbegehung: Will Monks & Mike File, 2005 | 30m, 3 | |||
24 M1 | ★★★ Clean Sweep
For almost 25 years this route has largely been neglected due to a reputation for having a runout crux. In reality, it can be completely sewed up if you have plenty of micro-wires and a blue alien, and the endurance to hang around and fiddle them in. Plus the climbing is simply immaculate and, even despite the aid bolt, this must be a strong contender for the best 24 in the Grampians. Start as for Dance of Life. Aid on the bolts and jug R to the arete as for Dance of Life. From there climb straight up the grey faint groove with fantastic sustained moves all the way to the horizontal breaks, then directly up the excellent blunt arete. Erstbegehung: Kim Carrigan, 1985 | 40m, 2, 1 | |||
24 M1 | ★★★ Dance of Life
Outstanding and unlikely climbing on amazing rock, with great pro and a bouldery finish. Start just R of Dinosaurs Don't Dyno, on the R end of the elevated ledge. But belay at ground level to reduce rope drag and improve communication. Delicately sidle R and slightly up along the small ledge/slab, until it terminates in a hanging 'horn' of rock. A tricky reach off the horn gains a RB and BR. Aid on these to gain the flake, then monkey R to the arete. Trend R and up the gorgeous orange scoops to large break (optional belay). Continue up flakes to crimpy finish (BR). Full rack, extenders and 2 bolt plates. Erstbegehung: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 35m, 2, 2 | |||
23 M1 | ★★★ Dance of Life Clean Sweep Connection
Some link-ups are hardly worth recording, but this one is notable because it avoids the cruxy moves of each route, leaving amazing sustained climbing around grade 22 with bomber pro the whole way. In fact, you'd be hard pressed to find a better 23 in the Grampians. Follow Dance of Life to the horizontal break 10m below the top, step L 3m, and finish up the lovely well protected blunt arete of Clean Sweep. Needs double ropes to do it in a single (ultraclassic) pitch. Has also been done by going further L along the break to Dinosaurs Don't Dyno. Erstbegehung: 2004 Erstbegehung: Will Monks, James Pfrunder & Kevin Lindorff, 2004 | 45m, 1 | |||
23 | ★★ The Seventh Banana Pitch 1
| 20m | |||
24 | Hydra
Climb 7th Pillar LHV almost to end of rightwards traverse and go up scoopy line past 2 bolts to bolted anchor. Erstbegehung: Graeme Dick, 25 Jun 2016 | 30m, 3 | |||
23 R | ★★★ The Seventh Pillar Left Hand Variant
A heady megaclassic ... but also a brilliant consumer-friendly 22 if you lower off the bolts at the top of the flake (25m). Start as for The Seventh Pillar. Follow R-tending line of weakness for 18m to the major roof-capped horizontal break. Swing L into the rounded flake crack and up it. Bolts at the top protect the crux, which is followed by 8m rightwards runout to the horizontal (gear). Traverse 10m further right along this to rap rings (22m rap, can just barely lower off with a 60m rope). Extend all gear before the bolts, otherwise the flake is a real rope eater and rope drag will be hideous. Erstbegehung: Mark Moorhead, Col Reece & Eddy Ozols, 1980 | 46m, 1 | |||
24 | ★ Scud Buster
Some fantastic slabbing in the prime central part of Taipan. Hard for 24. Start at the first belay of Lawrence of Arabia, which is most conveniently accessed by jugging 8m up the FB or Serpentine fixed ropes, if they're there. From the R end of the roof-like section of the horizontal, head up on pockets (thread, #3-4 cam). Continue slabbing past 4 hangerless bolts (rebolted 2011) to ledge below main roof. Traverse 5m R (small-med cams) to the first belay of Serpentine. Rap off (20m). Erstbegehung: Richard Smith & Andy Pollitt, 1992 | 75m, 4 | |||
24 | ★ Serpentine Pitch 1
Erstbegehung: Malcolm Matheson | 30m | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall - South | |||||
24 | ★★★ World Party Pitch 3
Erstbegehung: Andy Pollit | 20m | |||
24 | ★★ Kaa
Wanders around like crazy in order to follow the 'weaknesses', but still worthwhile. Nearly all the bolts are in poor condition - please contribute to rebolting. You also need a light trad rack. Start at ground level at the prominent left-leading flake that is located towards the right end of the Spurt Wall bouldering traverse, directly below Venom.
Erstbegehung: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1992 | 80m, 4, 9 | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Spurt Wall | |||||
23 | Kaa Pitch 1
The old 15mm long (!!) bolt was replaced 2011. Start: Start at the R end of the 'Spurt Wall' bouldering traverse, at the obvious juggy chalked L leading flake. Erstbegehung: Steve Monks | 17m, 1 | |||
24 | ★★ Dial-A-Lama
Fantastic thought provoking sloper climbing with an exciting finish. Very popular, despite being very solid for the grade. Once had a reputation for silly bolting - but has since been fixed by SCV. Erstbegehung: Martin Lama, 1995 | 15m, 7 | |||
23 | ★ Lord of the Jerks
Easy tick - more like a bolted boulder problem. Erstbegehung: Simon Ozolins, 1994 | 9m, 3 | |||
23 | ★ Pussy Galore
Hard start then reachy moves on pockets. The bolts are all in the wrong places. 3 FHs. Erstbegehung: Stuart Wyithe, 1994 | 8m, 3 | |||
23 | I'd Rather Be Wanking
Sandy rubbish at the far right end of the crag. It has a few ok moves but the aesthetic value is very low. Erstbegehung: Simon Ozolins, 1994 | 8m, 3 | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Afterglow Boulders | |||||
V4 | ★ Bossanova Left
| ||||
V4 | ★ Fading Lite
| ||||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Between the Sheeps | |||||
V4 | ★★ Carpet Crawler
Start as for 'Railroad' then finish as for 'Cinema Show'. | ||||
V4 | ★ Slot Machine
Sit start with the good slots just right of 'Railroad' and make a big move (crux) up to the good holds in the roof. Finish as for the mantle on 'Railroad'. Punchy! | ||||
V4 | ★★ Railway Machine
Start as for 'Slot Machine' and traverse right into 'Cinema Show'. Finish up this. | ||||
V4 | Orange Goblin
The line left of 'Kamikaze'. Could be the flakeline ending nowhere in particular. | ||||
V4 | ★★ To Catch a Thief
A variation of the previous problem, but better. Starting off the sloper above the shelf (right of previous problem), make a move left to the good pocket, then cross to the prominent 2-finger pocket and span out left into 'I Must Have Been the Thief'. Finish as for this. | ||||
V4 | Wirschllsiada
Line just right of 'Anal Head'. | ||||
V4 | ★★ Chas Remains
Dangerous. Probably even more committing than 'Kamikaze'. Start off the shelf and reach up for a prominent 'spike' jug, then climb directly out to the deep 3-finger pocket. Turn 90 degrees and place your feet on the holds of the next problem, and make a most worrying couple of moves for the big 'flake' jug out on the lip. 15 spotters and a blow up bouncy castle useful...or just pre-order the ambulance. | ||||
V4 | ★★ Rat Poison
Start off rock on slopey jug, head up and right through committing moves between jugs. Erstbegehung: Callum Mather | 8m | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Lower Taipan Wall | |||||
24 | Slap And Tickle
24 (!!) Start: L of 'Natural Wastage' Erstbegehung: Nick White & Nicky Sunderland, 1991 | 15m | |||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Lower Taipan Reprisal Wall | |||||
24 | ★ Black Swan
If you have done the other two 24s then why not finish yourself of with this one! More of the same thin face climbing. Four bolts finish at same anchors of Act of War. Erstbegehung: Adam Demmert, 2008 Erste freie Begeh.: adam demmert, 2008 | 10m, 4 |