Routen in Hayes Creek

JUST BEFORE THE APARTMENTS

First wall on RHS of gorge, 3/4 of the way along. Small face with lateral seam and single bolt above. Climb starts directly under the bolt for 14, or start on RHS of bolt for 12/13. Climb straight up. 1BR

Actually starts L and 5m below the boulder platform. Trend R up the wall and short cracks to the ledge and top.

Up the short narrow chimney, then up to the ledge and up the slightly overhanging wall on the right. Beware loose blocks on top

Start a metre or so L of the obvious corner on the right of the recessed wall. Up and slightly L via the square-cut notch at the top.

The pretty corner on the right of the recessed wall. Pity there isn’t a hundred metres of it!

Starts impressively, but then fizzles out. Right of the chimney is a white wall with a thin crack up the middle. Start below this, then break through the overhang, and so on to glory.

Is there no end to these mega-classics? The broken crack and corner system up the LHS of the black wall. Left across the short wall at the clean corner, then stay right of the arête to the top.

Obvious laid back black wall with numerous horizontal breaks. Climb straight up just about anywhere, following lines of good holds and mega pro (small SLCDs). A “sustained grade 8”, good for beginners.

For lovers of contrivance… Variant linkup route in the nursery combining 3 existing routes. Start up Cyclone Rachel & through the small rooflet, move across and up the Gentle Breeze slab. Finish up Zephyr. Belay of top block

The obvious large right slanting crack system right of Gentle Breeze. Up the crack, stepping left below the roof to belay.

Start at the left slanting crack 3m right of Storm in a Teacup. Follow the crack towards Storm in a Teacup, but take the face and short flake immediately right of the deep V crack when the two lines merge. Belay as for Storm in a Teacup.

Start on the rib immediately right of Gone with the Wind. Follow the vague line up and right towards the large fig tree. Up the precarious blocks above staying left of the arête. Belay on top - down climb into the gully to find suitable anchors, then scramble back up.

Up right of Zephyr is a deep crack with a small roof about 2.5m above the ground. Bridge delicately past the roof, then follow the crack more easily to the large fig tree. Good cam placements.

The crack immediately right of Low Pressure System, passing right of the tree

I wish! It’s the arête a couple of metres right of Windsome, Loosesome, but starting at ground level (about 5m lower). Up the indistinct line just right of the rib, then step left and up the front of the last bit.

Start around the RHS of the last pillar right of the Nursery, a few metres right of Cool Change and just left of the walk down. Wander up to summit

Go straight up the left side of Dingo Direct instead of weaving across the corner. Then finish on the face.

Stunning climb, a bolt or a large set of nuts (not the wired kind)and a small brain will see it led one day. Start on the right hand side of the front buttress, right of the obvious corner. Up the face trending right, then up the wall just left of Where Dick Goes Down.

Much coveted, seldom repeated. Razor sharp flake on at start through overhang to thinish wall. 1 bolt, rest on natural gear

Start at the immediate left of Where Dick Goes Down, up to the immediate right and over the overhang. No use of Where Dick Goes Down or right of it.

First line on the LHS of the Sanctuary, named for Richard’s impressive first descent, and remains today as somewhat of a testpeice. Overhanging start with open corner above. If you want to cheat, stick clip the fixed hanger, then grunt, groan and hernia your way to a rest at 5m. Beware of patch of manky water affected choss at mid height. Easily up corner. 1BR

Named after the Ashton’s’ delicious lunch on the day of the FRA. The crack 2m right of Where Dick Goes Down.

Steep, tree roots currently encroaching on crack (2007)

Thin sharp face to the right of BB. Straight up face past 1 FH to prominent ledge. Interesting finish up RH arête of top block. 1BRThin...

mixture of bolts and small pro needed.

The line of awesome power 5m right of BB, which had repulsed revolted at least two aspirants before finally succumbing. Take a couple of big cams.

too short

The finger width crack one move right of SS. Short and sweet. Since immortalized by Arullan’s 8 gear placements in 2 metres!

The first impressive offering by this up and coming pair of talented young superstars. A further move right of MM is a wider broken crack which is chimney width initially. Grovel up it to the pile of boulders, and continue up the right hand line above if you can be bothered. Sounds delightful.

Perfect beginner lead, gear, gear and more gear

The best looking line hereabouts. Follow the left hand line steeply at first. The angle then eases before the final vertical section.

Start half a move right of SH. Easily up into the chimney, then grovel through the slot leaving behind as little skin as possible. A No. 4 Camelot (or similar humungous SLCD) at the back of the slot protects it nicely. Don’t even breathe on the horrendously loose horizontal flake!

The name gives it away. Good safe and well protected beginners lead.

Up the front of the buttress on the RHS of the Sanctuary entrance, opposite Where Dick Goes Down. Go up the short corner on the right of the summit roof. Grade 15 if you go straight up the initial unprotected overhang.

Nice direct finish to rambler. Up the initial unprotected overhang and straight up through the top overhang. Done in Hiking boots originally.

Nice climb, needs one very small (very) cam

Face between Rambler and Coupla More Hectapascals. Start from small tree up onto largish vegetated ledge, then up through lovely short slabby face and over small roof to top. Watch the loose block just before toe top. A good climb.

Corner to the right of Rambler

Left and right variants exist at about same grade

Starts left of Ficus. Climb straight up left of Ficus, traverse right below bulge, up and over to finish.

Thin and balancy face with three bolts to crack with natural pro finish

Smooth red face just right of Pot Belly. Delicate and fingery moves straight up the face past 3 FH’s . Easier through bulge to top (SLCD’s). 3BR, 1 fixed SLCD.

Really Fun and a big psych out for the grade. This climb has some loose blocks, but a very good climb nonetheless.

Up the exposed face and overhang that faces the valley on the front of the buttress. Good number 7 nut placement above and slightly right of the first roof section.

Stiff at 16, challenging at 17. Great pro.

The obvious crack line through the roof and up the face on the RHS of the face of the buttress (just left around the corner from VO) just left of the arête.

Possibly the crag classic, very cute technical crux.

Starts under the small roof around LHS of the outcrop, just right of the corner. Up to the roof (solo or small cams). Clip the FH and straight up past 3 more FH’s and small wire/SLCD placements. 4BR,1BB.

Nasty and dangerous downclimb off back of pillar as "walk off"

The buttress wall tapering to a pillar just left of and at right angles to Sports Plus. Up the buttress to ledge, launch straight up following good holds and pro (large cams).

Belay from ledge at base of hand crack inside of pillar. Climb the crack without stemming or using the left hand wall, through the roof to finish. Taping up essential. Given stars as it is the only pure jamming route in the region.

I liked it.... others don't, could be hard for shorter folk

Climb chimney with prominent overhung crack on right hand side behind Gnomes Roam. Exit from chimney through bulge.

Nice climb, walk off as for Where Gnomes Roam- Nasty

On the left side of GR. Start on ledge about 3 metres up from the bottom, and up the lovely juggy arete to the top.

Thin and improbable looking face with very scarce protection 10m upslope from KBL. Bouldery start leading to crimpy face moves to ledge. Easier but poorly protected finish. Do not attempt without a black alien or SLCD of similar diminutive stature.

Crack to the left of BAOS. Straight up obvious line

The next corner left of WTB. Carefully up the groove past some Friend pockets to the ledge. Then follow the crack above and right on better rock. Watch out for paper wasp nests and bats.

Wander up the front of the pinnacle

Start from the high platform round the back and wander up to the top.

Start from the low platform

Best easy line at Hayes to my mind.

This climb takes the obvious and dominant line on this wall. Follows the long left leaning crack. Take small and medium cams. Add a grade for the Ode finish at the Fig Tree.

Start at the shallow corner to rooflet, step right then up, crossing DP then finishing straight up through the face, to the big fig tree to top out at the right of Don’t Panic. Belay and rappel off the fig tree.

Do it in 2 pitches. Three possible starts 2 at 17 and one at 10/11. second pitch 14 has great exposed traverse to finish.

Variant pirst pitch on 2 Wraps. Up overhanging crack.

Obvious large crack 4m right of the Freezer. Up Easily at first followed by graceful but exposed moves at mid height. Squirm or bridge the easy off width finish. Large SLCDs!!

Horrid looking crack immediately right of Blue Sling. Apparently better than it looks. Named after a notorious night at the pub.

Starts 10 or so metres right of DM. Cheeky start leads to small ledge, followed by easy climbing to distinctive grey elephant hide section aat 2/3 height. This is the aforementioned “Nookery” of nut placements. Finishes to the left of yet another fig tree. Quite an enjoyable outing in all.

Heading Past Ode and DP (Don't Panic) to the left you will see a distinctive wall that starts with a smooth orange rock and changes to a sea of chicken heads at around 4m Line traveling up the middle of the face.

Further up the creek is an impressive orange wall with a line of 5 fixed hangers up the middle of it. Big moves on bug holds, can be pumpy if you don`t find the rests.... Beware the caves!

Beautiful and obvious line left of WD. Start in the square cut corner at ground level, up onto the ledge and follow the crack up until under the roof. Intimidating and exposed exit moves under the roof.

Starts 1m left of Who Dunnit, then continue up orange wall to small ledge at the base of the corner crack on I Did It. The route continues up wall to the left of the large corner crack on ID.

Start on the right of Whipping Boyís deep Chimney. Follow small crack system up to roof. Strenuous moves on small holds around roof. Finish on same ledge as AA.

Start up the line of weakness on the back wall of the dark chimney to the right of Big Spender. Tough moves to small ledge above chimney. Finish up obvious v shaped corner. Deduct a grade if you stem in the chimney

Start up Whipping Boy, to small ledge, traverse from here completely across ëíTestosterone wallî, taking the line of least resistance. Finish up the end of Mr. Giggles.

Pumpy and strenuousl start under the steepest part of Testosterone Wall, 3m to the right of Mr. Giggles. Finishes straight up on easier ground.

Face immediately right of obvious arête and chimney. Climb up arête onto block. From block head right onto face and straight up, move left sticking close to arête and past overhang to top. First piece of pro slung from horizontal crack to 4m above ground. Will be three star when we get a bolt Col!

Excellent (and Dynamic) direct start to above climb added by Doug on a recent visit

Climb the steeply overhung arête to the left of Mr. Giggles. Strong and unlikely moves lead to more delicate climbing. First piece of pro slung from horizontal crack to 4m above ground.

Climb slabby rounded corner which is the left face of the chimney to top.

Start in frequently sandy “V” shaped corner at base. Go straight up and and stay on face through some thinner stuff to reachy and committed move at the top. Quite a satififying, if underrated climb.

Begin 7 metres right of Route 2. Easily up to stance, layback to hold on left, then straight up the dirty vegetated crack. Fairly unpleasant really.

Really fun climb just right of MAC is a face with a fig tree (how unusual!). Start in layback crack left of R1, step right and through small stepped roof onto face past fig tree. Finish up crack system and over another small rooflet. The summit is a very popular urination point for the local wallaby population.

The last reasonably high outcrop on the RHS of the gorge - look for the small bulging overhang at about 10m with no. 1 SLCD crack. Start around to the left of the overhang in corner crack. Up the ledge, step right onto face, up to the bulge. Breathe deeply and walk down the aisle. The D minor of Hayes Creek.

I don’t know anyone who has tried this prehistoric nightmare, but Steve assured me it has been climbed. The large trench that is half strangled by a fig tree to the right of the the GAG wall.

Perhaps Kiwi’s finest moment at Hayes Creek. Follows shallow seam up beautiful creamy coloured slab 30m left of MAC. Past small roof and up to single BR at about halfway. Thin and balancy moves on crimps to ledge level, then haul those jugs to glory. A Really satisfying climb, which curiously has very few Green ants (unlike some other climbs). Obvious descent gully to the left. 1BR

Sharp overhanging arête on left hand margin of GAG wall

Looking just to left of GAG you will see a very prominent roof with ripply sandstone underneath. One strong move straight over and that’s it. Nice cams under roof. Short but by all accounts quite stiff for the grade.

Walk around the bottom of Kiwi’s overhang to end of main RHS wall, scramble up the scree slope. Start easily up to horizontal seams and vertical cracks. Continue up. So named after Justin dislodged very large loose block which was subsequently removed from the top of the climb

Initial moves on nice creamy coloured face have a bouldery feel. Move past small horizontal break to ledge. Finish up hanging corner with slightly awkward exit.

Start is from elevated block 5m left of HNB. Up obvious vertical crack line to prominent cave. Do not enter this cave if possible! Exposed moves out and around small roof.

The delicate face above the tiny roof between two cracks. Climb straight up through the right end of the roof, keeping out of Butt Crack (right). Once through the roof move left onto the face, still keeping away from Butt Crack and the arête to left. 3BR

Vertical crack line just to the right of TT’s tiny roof. Follow crack straight up 11m to ledge, scramble up small chimney to finish. Quite a good climb really, that often gets bypassed.

Immediately on the right hand side of Butt Crack. Follow pillar to top.

7m right of RTR and around the corner.Follow crack from below belay block to top.

Begin on ledge 5m right of ground force. Mantelshelf to small ledge then up lovely left leaning orange face. Easy jugs to belay near not quite shady enough figtree.

Named after the huge snake anchor required at the top due to loose rocks. Start on thin crack right of waterfall, head up and traverse left following path of least resistance. Then go straight up to the top of the pillar above waterfall.

Starting 2m right of ground force, bash your way up arête next to large root system to grassy ledge (The aforementioned backyard). Steep moves on jugs to belay on top block.

To many this is the best climb in the valley. Certainly Jules and Jules’s finest moment here. Climbs the distinctive blackened 3rd wall on the RHS of the crag past the Amphitheatre and waterfall. Slightly overhanging face set back into cliff. Start below and left of first BR. Up and right to first BR, up past 2 more BR’s, left and up to finish on ledge. So named after it repelled all male attempts pre Julie’s ascent claiming it as one for the ladies. A slippery proposition on a hot build up day. 4BR, 1BB

Crack line 5 m right of No Mans Land. Tricky start on face below beginning of crack, follow crack up to ledge. Crack starts thin and gets wider and easier with height.

Good slabing with a sting in the tail, 4 carrots and one br.

Traverse the ramp.

Line of carrots and fhs to the right of frangipani.

Take the ramp and follow the chalk, glory jugging on an overhung wall. Alternate start to ramp, climb bougainvillaes start at the same grade.

Follow line of fhs, reachy crux and pumpy finish.

Pumpy with a staunch crux.

Line of camo rbs, thin cruxs with sustained climbing the whole way.

Break left at 'Barramundi Dreamings's' 5th bolt and follow 3 U-bolts to anchor

Glory jugging, follow fhs.

Great route, sustained and great quality.

Tricky crux through strange ramp, great climb at the grade.