A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Matt Short Tim Mayer Adrian Kladnig Mike Ashelford Brendan Heywood Brendon Flanagan Rob Barker gavin portier Vanessa Wills Aidan
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Einige Inhalte wurden unter folgender Lizenz bereitgestellt: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Glamorpus Area 23 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Glamorpus Area 23 routes in Sector
- Summary:
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Hauptsächlich Sportklettern
Lat / Long: -33.603829, 151.147320
Beschreibung
Far western side of Blackboard, 30m right
Einschränkungen
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★★ Great Expectations
Start in the middle of the pocketed wall 12 m L of GOM. Swing around and on pockets to easy mantle finish. Erschliesser: Tim Mayer, 27 Mär 2016 Erstbegehung: Tim Mayer, 1 Apr 2016 | 22 | 8m, 4 | |||||
2 |
★★ Toy Story
Up the small steep wall following line of U's. Nice toy climb. Erschliesser: Child & Jones Erstbegehung: Child, 30 Jul 2016 | 23 | 8m, 3 | |||||
3 |
★ Prowl 'n Prejudice
Juggy line on hangers up small overhang. Erstbegehung: Child & Jones, 30 Jul 2016 | 16 | 8m, 3 | |||||
4 |
Extended Prejudice Remix
Spectacular but weird, from the 3rd bolt of Prowl and Prejudice go straight up slab and through big roof to lip Erstbegehung: Jeffrey Crass & Michael Law, 2020 | 18 | 10m, 3 | |||||
5 |
★ Julian's Finest Hour
Up the black wall using very marginal gear placements. Start: 8m left of 'Grumpy Old Men' (sounds like the FA of Prowl and Prejudice) Erstbegehung: Julian Anderson, 1990 | 15 R | 6m | |||||
6 |
★ Un Hommage du Craster
Black wall just left of Violet Bumble. Erstbegehung: Jeffrey Crass Erschliesser: Michael Law | 17 | 8m, 3 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★ Violet Bumble
Climb blocky corner/arete to top of purple wall, straight to chain anchors on lip of roof above. Or traverse right into the 23 and finish there (a few more moves but harder to clean or toprope). A hold on the top arete has been falling apart and it seems much harder than 19 now. Erstbegehung: Michael Law, 1988 Erstbegehung: Child & Jones, 2016 | 19 | 12m, 5 | |||||
8 |
★★ Grumpy Old Men
Climb the obvious golden flake moving up to easy ground. two bolts to lower off. bouldery. Start: 4m left of 'Scones of Doom' Erstbegehung: Gavin Portier, 2009 | 23 | 9m, 2 | |||||
9 |
★ Up The Duff
Up line of rings on short wall Start: 2m left of cave Erstbegehung: Paul Duff, 1997 | 22 | 8m, 3 | |||||
10 |
Black hand crack
Up steep hand crack right of UtD to finish on those anchors. | 17 | 10m | |||||
11 |
★★ Grind Groin Groove
Up corner by Scones of Doom, onto Bronco and up. Erstbegehung: Michael Law, 2020 | 20 | 15m, 5 | |||||
12 |
★★ Scones of Doom
Up through the scoopy slopers to ledge (avoiding spinning RB). Back out and onto head wall (RB) and up to DRB lower-offs. Erstbegehung: Mikl Law | 23 | 15m, 4 | |||||
13 |
★★ Glitoris
Scones too soft? Add a pumpy traverse and cruxy mantle into the fray with the linkup into Omnipox. Notoriously difficult to find, apparently it is near "Are you my pussy". Erstbegehung: Adrian, 11 Jul 2017 | 23 | 15m | |||||
14 |
★★ Omnopox
Through bulges to finish slightly left. Reputedly tough for the grade, you decide. Start: 2m left of 'Glamorpus' | 24 | 15m, 3 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
15 |
★★ Glamorpus
Awesome overhanging route Start: nice little mantle then awesome climbing | 24 | 18m | |||||
16 |
Glamour Mum
Picking the absolute worst of Glamopus and 'Are You My Mother?'. More Mantles thana display home estate. Do the mantle on 'Glamorpus' then traverse right along the ledge to do the mantle on 'Are You My Mother?'. Erstbegehung: Anthony Lin, 2009 | 22 | 12m, 5 | |||||
17 |
★ Are You My Pussy
A fantastic pumpy route. Picks the best bits of each route. Climb 'Are You My Mother?' to 2nd bolt, do the dyno then traverse left and clip the new U bolt then finish up 'Glamorpus'. Erstbegehung: Barry Jones, 2009 | 23 | 19m, 6 | |||||
18 |
★★ Are You My Mother?
One for the tall people. Boulder up to bulge, commit for the throw then commit a bit more for the mantle. clip safety bolt and rest forever. tall people grab chipped finish hold, shorties - feet up with a little dead point for finishing hold. Start: 3m right of 'Glamorpus' | 25 | 12m, 4 | |||||
19 | ★ Green Eggs and Ham | 22 | 15m | |||||
20 |
★ Zooloft
Rightwards on slopiness then up nose, all the holds are in the wrong place, it traverse right around arete up high. Desperate but fun climbing Erstbegehung: Mike Law, 2011 | 20 | 12m, 6 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
21 |
Lentil Lollipops
Marked LL. A slightly steep start followed by a thin chimney to a solid corner. Take care with pro. Tree belay at top. Erstbegehung: Geoffry Heath & James Holbrook, 1980 | 9 | 15m | |||||
22 |
★★★ Thank God It's Friday
As for NIBS but head straight up arete at 3rd RB. The old bolt to the left remains unclimbed Erstbegehung: Tim Mayer, 5 Aug 2014 | 24 | 10m, 4 | |||||
23 |
Nights in Black Satin
Start as for LL and head right to big big jug on prow. Up to 3rd bolt on overhanging then head around arete to join the end of Scott's Edge. Erstbegehung: Tim Mayer, 2007 | 24 | 12m, 4 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
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9 | Lentil Lollipops | 15m | |||
15 R | ★ | Julian's Finest Hour | 6m | ||
16 | ★ | Prowl 'n Prejudice | 8m, 3 | ||
17 | Black hand crack | 10m | |||
★ | Un Hommage du Craster | 8m, 3 | |||
18 | Extended Prejudice Remix | 10m, 3 | |||
19 | ★ | Violet Bumble | 12m, 5 | ||
20 | ★★ | Grind Groin Groove | 15m, 5 | ||
★ | Zooloft | 12m, 6 | |||
22 | Glamour Mum | 12m, 5 | |||
★★ | Great Expectations | 8m, 4 | |||
★ | Green Eggs and Ham | 15m | |||
★ | Up The Duff | 8m, 3 | |||
23 | ★ | Are You My Pussy | 19m, 6 | ||
★★ | Glitoris | 15m | |||
★★ | Grumpy Old Men | 9m, 2 | |||
★★ | Scones of Doom | 15m, 4 | |||
★★ | Toy Story | 8m, 3 | |||
24 | ★★ | Glamorpus | 18m | ||
Nights in Black Satin | 12m, 4 | ||||
★★ | Omnopox | 15m, 3 | |||
★★★ | Thank God It's Friday | 10m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★ | Are You My Mother? | 12m, 4 |