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Glamorpus Area Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Matt Short Tim Mayer Adrian Kladnig Mike Ashelford Rob Barker gavin portier

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Einige Inhalte wurden unter folgender Lizenz bereitgestellt: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Glamorpus Area 23 routes in Sector

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Saisonalität

Hauptsächlich Sportklettern

Lat / Long: -33.603829, 151.147320

Beschreibung

Far western side of Blackboard, 30m right

Einschränkungen

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

übernommen von New South Wales and ACT
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Great Expectations

Start in the middle of the pocketed wall 12 m L of GOM. Swing around and on pockets to easy mantle finish.

Erschliesser: Tim Mayer, 27 Mär 2016

Erstbegehung: Tim Mayer, 1 Apr 2016

22 Sport 8m, 4
2 Toy Story

Up the small steep wall following line of U's. Nice toy climb.

Erschliesser: Child & Jones

Erstbegehung: Child, 30 Jul 2016

23 Sport 8m, 3
3 Prowl 'n Prejudice

Juggy line on hangers up small overhang.

Erstbegehung: Child & Jones, 30 Jul 2016

16 Sport 8m, 3
4 Extended Prejudice Remix

Spectacular but weird, from the 3rd bolt of Prowl and Prejudice go straight up slab and through big roof to lip

Erstbegehung: Jeffrey Crass & Michael Law, 2020

18 Sport 10m, 3
5 Julian's Finest Hour

Up the black wall using very marginal gear placements.

Start: 8m left of 'Grumpy Old Men' (sounds like the FA of Prowl and Prejudice)

Erstbegehung: Julian Anderson, 1990

15 R Traditionell 6m
6 Un Hommage du Craster

Black wall just left of Violet Bumble.

Erstbegehung: Jeffrey Crass

Erschliesser: Michael Law

17 Sport 8m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 Violet Bumble

Climb blocky corner/arete to top of purple wall, straight to chain anchors on lip of roof above. Or traverse right into the 23 and finish there (a few more moves but harder to clean or toprope). A hold on the top arete has been falling apart and it seems much harder than 19 now.

Erstbegehung: Michael Law, 1988

Erstbegehung: Child & Jones, 2016

19 Sport 12m, 5
8 Grumpy Old Men

Climb the obvious golden flake moving up to easy ground. two bolts to lower off. bouldery.

Start: 4m left of 'Scones of Doom'

Erstbegehung: Gavin Portier, 2009

23 Sport 9m, 2
9 Up The Duff

Up line of rings on short wall

Start: 2m left of cave

Erstbegehung: Paul Duff, 1997

22 Sport 8m, 3
10 Black hand crack

Up steep hand crack right of UtD to finish on those anchors.

17 Traditionell 10m
11 Grind Groin Groove

Up corner by Scones of Doom, onto Bronco and up.

Erstbegehung: Michael Law, 2020

20 Sport 15m, 5
12 Scones of Doom

Up through the scoopy slopers to ledge (avoiding spinning RB). Back out and onto head wall (RB) and up to DRB lower-offs.

Erstbegehung: Mikl Law

23 Sport 15m, 4
13 Glitoris

Scones too soft? Add a pumpy traverse and cruxy mantle into the fray with the linkup into Omnipox. Notoriously difficult to find, apparently it is near "Are you my pussy".

Erstbegehung: Adrian, 11 Jul 2017

23 Sport 15m
14 Omnopox

Through bulges to finish slightly left.

Reputedly tough for the grade, you decide.

Start: 2m left of 'Glamorpus'

24 Sport 15m, 3
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
15 Glamorpus

Awesome overhanging route

Start: nice little mantle then awesome climbing

24 Sport 18m
16 Glamour Mum

Picking the absolute worst of Glamopus and 'Are You My Mother?'. More Mantles thana display home estate. Do the mantle on 'Glamorpus' then traverse right along the ledge to do the mantle on 'Are You My Mother?'.

Erstbegehung: Anthony Lin, 2009

22 Sport 12m, 5
17 Are You My Pussy

A fantastic pumpy route. Picks the best bits of each route. Climb 'Are You My Mother?' to 2nd bolt, do the dyno then traverse left and clip the new U bolt then finish up 'Glamorpus'.

Erstbegehung: Barry Jones, 2009

23 Sport 19m, 6
18 Are You My Mother?

One for the tall people. Boulder up to bulge, commit for the throw then commit a bit more for the mantle. clip safety bolt and rest forever. tall people grab chipped finish hold, shorties - feet up with a little dead point for finishing hold.

Start: 3m right of 'Glamorpus'

25 Sport 12m, 4
19 Green Eggs and Ham 22 Sport 15m
20 Zooloft

Rightwards on slopiness then up nose, all the holds are in the wrong place, it traverse right around arete up high. Desperate but fun climbing

Erstbegehung: Mike Law, 2011

20 Sport 12m, 6
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
21 Lentil Lollipops

Marked LL. A slightly steep start followed by a thin chimney to a solid corner. Take care with pro. Tree belay at top.

Erstbegehung: Geoffry Heath & James Holbrook, 1980

9 Traditionell 15m
22 Thank God It's Friday

As for NIBS but head straight up arete at 3rd RB. The old bolt to the left remains unclimbed

Erstbegehung: Tim Mayer, 5 Aug 2014

24 Sport 10m, 4
23 Nights in Black Satin

Start as for LL and head right to big big jug on prow. Up to 3rd bolt on overhanging then head around arete to join the end of Scott's Edge.

Erstbegehung: Tim Mayer, 2007

24 Sport 12m, 4

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
9 Lentil Lollipops Traditionell 15m
15 R Julian's Finest Hour Traditionell 6m
16 Prowl 'n Prejudice Sport 8m, 3
17 Black hand crack Traditionell 10m
Un Hommage du Craster Sport 8m, 3
18 Extended Prejudice Remix Sport 10m, 3
19 Violet Bumble Sport 12m, 5
20 Grind Groin Groove Sport 15m, 5
Zooloft Sport 12m, 6
22 Glamour Mum Sport 12m, 5
Great Expectations Sport 8m, 4
Green Eggs and Ham Sport 15m
Up The Duff Sport 8m, 3
23 Are You My Pussy Sport 19m, 6
Glitoris Sport 15m
Grumpy Old Men Sport 9m, 2
Scones of Doom Sport 15m, 4
Toy Story Sport 8m, 3
24 Glamorpus Sport 18m
Nights in Black Satin Sport 12m, 4
Omnopox Sport 15m, 3
Thank God It's Friday Sport 10m, 4
25 Are You My Mother? Sport 12m, 4
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