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Eintrag |
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Jurassic Park
Rock climbing and abseiling will continue to be allowed at a designated site in Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park at Barrenjoey Head. Applications for the authorisation of these activities at other suitable sites within Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park may be considered where safety, visitor access, environmental, and cultural heritage assessments have demonstrated that the activity can be sustainably managed and will not impact significantly on park values. |
The Razorback, Side Show Alley and Dinosaur Head Bouder
These three linked areas take in the western end of the crag. The Razorback: This is the oblong shaped boulder that appears to have fallen out of Side Show Alley. It's western side is gently overhanging with some friable holds, that despite their evolving nature offer some very good moves. Side Show Alley: Although there are only a few problems in here at the moment, there are some high, hard, just under vertical classics waiting for an ascent. Dinosaur Head Boulder: This large boulder, named for the bizarre protuberance on it's front side, has some excellent airy classics. |
The Razorback, Side Show Alley and Dinosaur Head Bouder |
The is the long oblong shaped boulder that appeared to have fallen out of Side Show Alley. It's West
The is the long oblong shaped boulder that appeared to have fallen out of Side Show Alley. It's Western side is gently overhanging with some friable holds, that despite their evolving nature offer some very good moves. |
V3
This Little Piggy
Start on the friable edges 1/2m right of the tree, then un-straight-forwardly up to the angling top. |
V2
Blow Your House Down
1m right of This Little Piggy, nicely up on obvious worn holds. |
V3
Violent Crumble
Tackles the right slanting golden streak to the boulder's highest point. The holds get better higher up, but the climbing persists. |
V3
★★ The Razorback
Traverse the angular top of the boulder on its Eastern side to its highest point. |
V2
The Sow
Start in the middle of the front slabby side of The Razorback, follow the features leftward until they disappear, then up to the top. |
Although there are only a few problems in here at the moment, there are some high, hard just under v
Although there are only a few problems in here at the moment, there are some high, hard just under vertical classics waiting for an ascent. |
V4
★★★ Pinball Wizard
The inspiring black streak 2m left of The Razorback. Fantastic atmospheric climbing, that despite easing higher up, still requires a level head. |
V2
King Tide
Stand start 2m right of the corner on a flatish over head jug. |
V3
King Tide Var
Go dynamically straight up to the big hold 2.5m up without using King Tide's first hold. |
This large boulder, named for the bizarre protuberance on it's front side has some excellent airy cl
This large boulder, named for the bizarre protuberance on it's front side has some excellent airy classics. |
V0
Sanitized
The Jurassic version of beginner climbing. Delicately up past the little cave on crispy jugs. Bad landing. |
V0
Back Lot
Grab the ironstone edges right of the fallen block and continue up the featured wall. The holds and climbing get harder higher up. |
V0
Herbivore
Start on the jug just left of the arete. Up to the flake then delicately to the top. |
V4
★★★ Raptor
Fantastic, requires funk and commitment. Up the right side of the arete using a series of steep ramps before rejoining the arete. |
V5
★★★ T-Rex
Bold. Climb the wall just right of Raptor to gain a big hold in the middle of nowhere, then say your prayers and commit to the balancey finish. Looks contrived, but doesn't climb that way. |
V4
★ Charlie's Angels
A small problem with plenty of atmosphere. Follow the line just left of the big flake. Cranky, committing climbing above a thought provoking landing. |
The Home Zone
This area has a high concentration of very enjoyable low angled wall/slab bouldering. None of the problems are too tough and it offers a good introduction to Jurassic. Problems like Hunger Pain, Calefaction and Venetian offer height without too much difficulty and are good to warm your head up on, whilst Bonsai and Jade, although not too high, provide the next level up. |
The Home Zone |
V0
Fish Guts
Slabby climbing up the wall between the cracks. |
V0+
Snake Eyes
Up the steepish wall between the arete and the large crack on nicely spaced solid (yes, solid!) holds. |
V1
House To Let
The arete. Delicately up its LEFT hand side. |
V1
★★ Bonsai
A beautiful crimpy problem up the right side of this slab to the ledge. No arete. |
V1
★ Jade
Up the slab via the pocket just right of the corner to the ledge. |
V0
Egg Sucker
A traditional intimidating line - the corner to the top. |
V1
Sensible Sue
Up the wall between the arete and the corner and then straight through the roof - no moving left! |
V0
High Noon
Fun, spaced climbing up the arete. The rock becomes more solid higher up. Bad landing. |
V0
Mummy
Up the right side wall of the chimney on improbably holds - tread carefully. |
V0-
Office Space
Follow the line of largish holds up the back of the chimney to the top. Bad landing. |
V0-
★★ Hunger Pain
Up the arete. Pleasant airy easy climbing. Makes a good down climb. |
V0
Calefaction
The narrow line between Hunger Pain and Venetian. |
V0
★ Venetian
Follow the obvious fissure up the wall. Interesting climbing on solidish rock. |
V1
Sale By Instalment
The wall left of Venetian involving a distinct crux. |
V2
All Cheese Tastes The Same
Tackle the overhanging arete/buttress on the left of the wall. Technical and committing above a moderate landing. |
V2
Monkey Magic
Despite having some of the solidest rock at Jurassic, this problem remains very scary. The big orange corner to the roof, escape left to finish. |
V1
Twin Seams
Twin seams. Pretty self explanatory. |
50/50 Boulder
'Half solid, half choss.' This boulder sits about 15m in front of the cliff from The Home Zone area. It is overhanging and very short. |
50/50 Boulder |
V3
For Sale By Owner
Start on the obvious head high slopey pockets, pull on and fire for the top. |
V2
Gazumped
Climb the chossy crozzly rock on the left side of the face. |
Druggie's Alley, Impossible Princess and Ain't No Easy Win
This part of Jurassic is it's most adventurous, the problems are generally very high (6m), rarely ascended and the landings crap. With very few exceptions this is not the place to acclimatise yourself with the area. Almost all of the problems here follow proud natural lines, the likes of which are very rare for Sydney. |
Druggie's Alley, Impossible Princess and Ain't No Easy Win |
This is the obvious long narrow high corridor with the corner crack at the back (Red Light Special).
This is the obvious long narrow high corridor with the corner crack at the back (Red Light Special). None of the problems have proper landings, Low down, escape can be had by bridging out to the opposite wall - higher up you're on your own. Because of the lack of a proper base, movement in the alley is best done by bridging sideways to the start of your chosen problem. |
V2
Tripping Lightly Through The Tulips
Climb the left leaning arete (RH entrance to the alley). |
V0
Red Light Special
The obvious corner at the back of the alley. |
V3
Safe Injecting Room
A desperate, sustained struggle - and thats just to gain the start. At the back of Druggie's Alley is a beautiful arete. Start with your feet on the obvious footholds about 1m above the mire (sit start is still a project). |
V1
Vincent Black Lightning
Up the wall via the flake. Low technical crux, high emotional crux. |
V2
Cut Me A Line
Follow the very thin seam just right of the arete. Friable edges and a bad landing. |
This very large (6m+) boulder is home to some great 'line' bouldering.
This very large (6m+) boulder is home to some great 'line' bouldering. |
V3
Impossible Princess
The beautiful imposing orange arete. |
V3
Daddy's Little Angel
Gripped climbing with no safety net. |
V2 R
Deep Recess
The deep corner that all too easily becomes totally desperate. A true mettle tester. |
V2
Where The Axe Man Got Ya
The splitter crack in the arete. |
Ain't No Easy Win Boulder |
V2
Strange Daze
Grab the big undercling at the base of the orange over hanging buttress, then follow the good holds up its left hand side. |
V1
Kermit's Corner
Carefully climb the short corner. Bad landing. |
V4 R
★ Gee If He Fell From There He'd Really Hurt Himself
Comforting words indeed, yet this was actually said just as the first ascensionist was sketching his way through the high moves of this trouser filler. Off the ledge climb the left side of the arete until a line of fair edges at 4m, then move more easily and more scarily off rightwards. Very bad landing. |
V8
★★★ Ain't No Easy Win (Left)
THE line, THE classic. The sort of problem you dream about. Rarely does a hard problem involve truly classic climbing - here is a genuine exception. Despite the landing and the high level of commitment necessary, Ain't No Easy Win is actually out of character for Jurassic - the rock is solid and with experienced spotters it is even relatively safe. Follow the sickle shaper finger tip overlap up the overhanging orange streak. Funky, powerful, continuous, desperate, awesome. A truly world class problem. |
V8
★★★ Ain't No Easy Win (Right)
Same, same but different. Exit to the right via a long move to good holds. |
★★★ Ain't No Easy Win Sit Start
Rock climbing and abseiling will continue to be allowed at a designated site in Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park at Barrenjoey Head. Applications for the authorisation of these activities at other suitable sites within Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park may be considered where safety, visitor access, environmental, and cultural heritage assessments have demonstrated that the activity can be sustainably managed and will not impact significantly on park values. |
V3
Don't Count Your Losses
A desperate overhanging arete. Battle the barn door to the bellyflop top. |
The Mushroom Boulder
About 30m East of "Ain't No Easy Win", a small boulder sits amongst the undergrowth. This is The Mushroom Boulder. It is actually nothing like it's namesake in Texas; it is not more than 3m high, has a climbing face about 4m wide and is very rounded on top. It does however, offer several fun powerful little problems that are very different to the rest of Jurassic. |
The Mushroom Boulder |
V2
Meat For Vegetarians
Sit start with a large flake, then up and slightly left to finish. |
V5
Shittake
Sit start with you left hand in the better part of the break, then move powerfully up on slopey dishes. |
V5
Paper Bag
Stand start and go desperately up left of Shittake avoiding the big scoop. |
V5
Day Tripping
Longer than the rest. Traverse the break from the scoop to finish up Meat For Vegetarians. |
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