Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | Kletterer | |||
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Do 20. Jun 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
26 |
★★ Be A Robot For Jesus
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
Session 5.
2 laps, popped off part B of first crux both times. First time climbing clean to anchors from the no hands rest below bulge. Final move is still a killer. Time to get on the lead.
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Mi 19. Jun 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
24 |
★★ Brisbane Bitter
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
18 |
★ Stoat Clips Bolts
![]() | 18m, 6 | |||||
Di 18. Jun 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
25 |
★★ Bufo Marinus
![]() | 8m, 1 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Some progress on the proper direct starting moves, also finally went direct past the bolt rather than using the jugs out to left under the overhang.
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24 |
★★ Brisbane Bitter
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
24 |
★★ Brisbane Bitter
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
24 |
★★ Brisbane Bitter
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Mo 17. Jun 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★ Idiot Wind
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
Training. Great climb
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19 |
★★ Dysentery RHF
![]() | 18m, 6 | |||||
21 |
★ Alien Sex Fiend
![]() | 20m, 5 | |||||
Pretty spicey a fair ways above your last bolt. It is possible to go left at ID's 4th bolt to make the clip before going back right and doing the crux proper. Beware one enticing hold on the face is close to popping but is doable without it. Harder than ID but not as good.
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So 16. Jun 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
24 |
★★ Cubans For All
![]() | 18m, 4 | |||||
Finally got it done. No doubt there is rock to be ripped off. For me it is a much easier and nicer finish than HB, tho the real error is the anchor position on HB not the rock.
To the person that took home my nut, I hope you sent HB before bootying it!
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21 |
★ Kass
![]() | 18m, 6 | |||||
Found the crux pretty tricky on cold fingers. Nice climbing
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26 |
★★ Be A Robot For Jesus
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
14 |
★ Spooge In A Glove
![]() | 15m, 4 | |||||
14 |
★ Spooge In A Glove
![]() | 15m, 4 | |||||
16 |
★ Moonlight Dilemma
![]() | 15m, 5 | |||||
16 |
★ Moonlight Dilemma
![]() | 15m, 5 | |||||
11 |
★ Play School
![]() | 10m, 3 | |||||
11 |
★ Play School
![]() | 10m, 3 | |||||
10 |
Traverse To Bufo
![]() | 7m | ★ Gut | ||||
25 |
★★ Bufo Marinus
![]() | 8m, 1 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Left hand variant start, defo knocks a few grades or so off.
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24 |
★★ Wages Of Fear
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
16 |
★ Frontier Psychiatrist
![]() | 16m, 5 | |||||
Sa 15. Jun 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
21 |
★★ Idiot Wind
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
What an end to the day Big multi, then sport Then down to Brisbane to finish off the day
Awesome climb, fingers started cramping weirdly near the stop so just powered through the top without thinking
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21 |
★★ Idiot Wind
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Night time.
KP is scary! Slow moving first half wishing there were 2 or so more bolts on this thing.
Flake at the top is super cool with the hardest move being the cross over move afterwards. Super duper cool climbing! Being taller would make a few sections easier (eg Jack reached for a jug off a ledge while I had to double smear while holding two slopers and cranking to the same jug) Let a bit of Idiot Wind out as I started. Hah hah. |
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Do 13. Jun 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
12 |
★ JAFKPR
![]() | 13m, 4 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Couldn't make the crux move without resting on the rope. 😕
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6 |
★ Spidermonkey
![]() | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Quick run up it in the sun. Was freezing in the shade.
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10 |
★ Tactical Alert Stealth Hound
![]() | 15m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Cleaning Mitch's gear.
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16 |
★ Moonlight Dilemma
![]() | 15m, 5 | |||||
19 |
★ Gigolo
![]() | 13m, 3 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
19 |
★★ The Bolting Gestapo
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Mi 12. Jun 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
17 |
★ Pterodactyl D
![]() | 17m, 4 | |||||
Di 11. Jun 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
24 |
★★ Punks in the Gin
![]() | 17m, 5 | |||||
Just having fun. Above my pay grade. Top crux is tough.
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18 |
★ Pterodactyl
![]() | 17m, 5 | |||||
14 |
★ Anonymous
![]() | 20m | |||||
24 |
★★ Wages Of Fear
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
24 |
★★ Wages Of Fear
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
24 |
★★ Wages Of Fear
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
24 |
★★ Punks in the Gin
![]() | 17m, 5 | |||||
18 |
★ Stoat Clips Bolts
![]() | 18m, 6 | |||||
24 |
★★ Punks in the Gin
![]() | 17m, 5 | |||||
18 |
★ Stoat Clips Bolts
![]() | 18m, 6 | |||||
Mo 10. Jun 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
18 |
★ Stoat Clips Bolts
![]() | 18m, 6 | |||||
16 |
★ Anonymous DS
![]() | 18m, 6 | |||||
17 |
★ Dysentery
![]() | 18m, 6 | |||||
16 |
★ Tombstone Row
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
18 |
★ Pterodactyl
![]() | 17m, 5 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
18 |
★ Pterodactyl
![]() | 17m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
17 |
★ Pterodactyl D
![]() | 17m, 4 | |||||
19 |
★★ Moonlight Fantasia
![]() | 18m, 1 | |||||
So 9. Jun 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
26 |
★★ Be A Robot For Jesus
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
Session 4 TR solo. Clean run from the ground to the seam after the bulge. Totally pumped, will be hard to get through that slab!
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18 |
★ Pterodactyl
![]() | 17m, 5 | ★ Gut | ||||
17 |
★ Pterodactyl D
![]() | 17m, 4 | ★ Gut | ||||
20 |
★ Pommy Bastard
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★ Gut | ||||
23 |
★★ Cucumber Castle
![]() | 18m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
With a cam... Next step no cam.
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24 |
★★ Wages Of Fear
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Wages demanded blood tribute today, I'm missing a lot of skin which started separating while in the first finger lock after the first bolt... Good prompt to try a left hand side pull move up which also works well and doesn't demand skin.
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18 |
★ Stoat Clips Bolts
![]() | 18m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
21 |
★★ Idiot Wind DS
![]() | 18m, 4 | |||||
6 |
★ Spidermonkey
![]() | 15m, 8 | ★ Gut | ||||
Sa 8. Jun 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
24 |
★★ Brisbane Bitter
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Felt easier than I remember
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25 |
★★ Bufo Marinus
![]() | 8m, 1 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
went easy this morning, tied in and went up. Cool-weather, fresh(ish) skin and dialled beta all helped.
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24 |
★★ Cubans For All
![]() | 18m, 4 | |||||
Took an unsuspecting whip just below the chains. Next time for sure..
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21 schwer |
★★ Wedding Crashers
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
A very exciting climb! Unfortunately pumped off pulling through the crux. But the start got the HR going!
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20 |
★ Pommy Bastard
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
Fun, 3D climbing
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Fr 7. Jun 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
26 |
★★ Be A Robot For Jesus
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
24 |
★★ Wages Of Fear
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
24 |
★★ Wages Of Fear
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Few burns on TRS. Feels cruisy. Frustrating couple of slips on my 2 send goes after dialling beta. Figured out much more stable beta that’ll go easily. Nothing feels particularly cruxy but no clue how it’d go having to clip draws. Fighting the urge to dog & downgrade but I’ll save that for the redpoint.
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24 |
★★ Wages Of Fear
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
24 |
★★ Wages Of Fear
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
Finally pulled the lower crux, sorted clipping beta for the upper.
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Do 6. Jun 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
22 |
★ Hanger Wall Arete
![]() | 18m, 6 | |||||
Jumped on the route cause it looked really well bolted and was keen for something chill. Good time working the beta and enjoying the moves on the way up. Pulled over the top onto the slab and was greeted with a nice shiny bail biner in my face. “Aha!” I thought. Some chump couldn’t handle the smoke and now I reap the rewards. I snatched it eagerly. I then spent the next 15 minutes yoyoing up and down the start of the slab nervously looking up at the blank wall it’s a distinct lack of bolts. Eventually someone wanders over to tell up to me that the anchors are just over the lip and while it’s runout it’s pretty easy. Now I have to do it. I’m better then red biner bailer I tell myself. I head up and I’m pleased to find it’s pretty easy. I get a bit higher. Bit harder now, I start to look at the last bolt nervously. Higher still, now I’m in the shadow of the spotlights. I take a shaking hand off a sweaty smear to turn my head torch brighter. It flashes angrily at me, no dice. I can’t even see my belayer anymore. I’m climbing in a faint bubble of light, I could be 3m runout or I could be 30, either way I’m convinced I’ll die if I fall. The holds slowly get worse - retreat is no longer an option. I’m at the event horizon. My mind goes blank. Suddenly a carat bolt appears in front of my eyes. I shakily grab an extender off my harness and limply sling it over the metal. Only half the sling bites in. I know any slight gust of wind will pull it off. I look ahead over the lip and see the anchors almost within reach. One hard move separates me from safety. I take a deep breath…. … … Right foot up. Smear reminiscent of dawn wall foothold. Right hand up. Left hand up. I yell down to my belayer to stop spinning the twister wheel so fast. I blow the dust off the sloped that I’m clinging to and promise myself that if I get out of this alive I’ll take up a safer sport like ice climbing or perhaps wingsuit base jumping. With shaking legs I pull over the lip, frantically grab a draw from my harness and clip the anchors.
Great route would recommend. Probably go next time. Bit spooky at the top but worth it! Maybe a bit soft for 22, could be 21. |
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26 |
★★ Be A Robot For Jesus
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
Third session on the beast - TR solo. Pulled through first crux, but burned up and fell on the second part of the first crux (or is this considered the second crux?). First time pulling through the whole bulge crux. Spent most of the session working the top section. Will need a good rest after the bulge. Pieced together all the moves, not sure if it is the best beta- has a real heartbreaker final move to the chains.
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17 |
★ Pterodactyl D
![]() | 17m, 4 | |||||
21 |
★★ Wedding Crashers
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★ Gut | ||||
19 |
★★ Dysentery RHF
![]() | 18m, 6 | |||||
21 |
★★ Idiot Wind
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Mi 5. Jun 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
18 |
★ Dodgy Dub
![]() | 15m, 3 | |||||
dont know what happened here, just couldnt hold onto the final sloper to reach for the jug, took a fall like 5 times and still couldn't. ohh well can't win em all
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18 |
★ Pterodactyl
![]() | 17m, 5 | |||||
17 |
★ Dysentery
![]() | 18m, 6 | |||||
16 |
★ Tombstone Row
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
Di 4. Jun 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
25 |
★★ Bufo Marinus
![]() | 8m, 1 | |||||
skin all gone but motivation to come back is up. Hopped on the top rope to "try" the moves and managed to send. No skin left or time before last call on tacos though. Hopefully, get back on it for a lead attempt soon
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26 |
★★ Be A Robot For Jesus
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
23 |
★★ Cucumber Castle
![]() | 18m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
19 R |
★ Dysentery DF
![]() | 18m, 4 | |||||
23 |
★★ Cucumber Castle
![]() | 18m, 4 | |||||
Mo 3. Jun 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
21 |
★ Kass
![]() | 18m, 6 | |||||
Nice to be back on this; very juggy holds for a 21, but still impressed that Lucy & Mitch managed to do the crux after a few tries as it's a bit of a committing move.
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20 |
★ Pommy Bastard
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
Second climb for the night. Mitch, Lucy & Martinez all got it done on top-rope, which is pretty good.
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16 |
★ Tombstone Row
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
We had no fewer than three newbies tonight: Lucy, Amelia & Mitch, and also Mighty Martinez hadn't been in a while. Super fun night and this was the perfect "easy" first climb for those Young Troublemakers.
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23 leicht |
★★ Gangbang Wall
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
Fun little crux. Though the final slab was a bit heady without a good head torch
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23 |
★★ Gangbang Wall
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Crimpy business. Lead will be fun 😅
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So 2. Jun 2024 - Kangaroo Point | |||||||
Right Main Wall | |||||||
24 |
★★ Wages Of Fear
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
18 |
★ Pterodactyl
![]() | 17m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
18 |
★ Stoat Clips Bolts
![]() | 18m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
18 |
★ Stoat Clips Bolts
![]() | 18m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
19 |
★★ The Bolting Gestapo
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
19 |
★★ The Bolting Gestapo
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
19 |
★★ The Bolting Gestapo
![]() | 18m, 5 | |||||
22 |
★★ Gobble
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
22 |
★★ Gobble
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
22 |
★★ Gobble
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
22 |
★★ Gobble
![]() | 18m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut |