★ A Bum Full Of Fists 17

Description added for historical purposes only: 2016 council works have now completely changed this classic route: the crucial 2 carrots below the overhang, are now covered in shotcrete, making the grade harder, and a dangerous 7-8m runout from a dodgy drill hole sling.

Obvious arete left of stairs. Start up face to carrot at 4m, then up to small ledge. Up loose corner on jugs passing a BR (now covered), drill hole sling, then a BR (now covered). Reach left around arete to clip BR and swing left and up overhang (crux) to slab (BR). Up this placing a wire in crack to top.

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

• All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
• Don't ever chip holds.
• Don't paint on any new initials.
• Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.