Einträge in North Face

The first section of cliff you come to immediately after a couple of short free standing columns. Perfect morning crag with North West to North East aspect. Limit top access and do not disturb rocks due to rare skink.

The first climb on the crag.

Up the insanely knobby rib 2m left of Salad Days

Up the dyke and knobbly knobs. A great climb to hone your chicken head slinging technique.

The clean square cut corner groove 5m left of 'Thanks for the Mammaries'.

Up the rounded buttress 2m left of 'Short Shrift'. Mostly well protected, sparer near the top.

A contentiously bolted route which has been removed, but still a good quality top rope line. Up the knobby weakness between Deep Water and Torpid then up the slab

Up knobs then the thin crack which starts at about 3m high.

Climbs the arete between Torpid and Pork Orgy. Only gets the full grade if you climb the arete proper, 16 if you move off the arete and onto Torpid on the hardish move near the bottom. Originally bolted and removed.

Up the wall past a single bolt.

The original guide book really doesn't rate this climb: "Terrible. Suspect rock, poor position and abysmal protection". Up the groove. Try not to fall into the gully.

Up the knobbly narrow buttress.

A rare skink is found in this area- it is very important to not disturb rocks on the plateau and access via the base of the cliff is preferable. https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Conservation-Action-Plans-adopted/conservation-action-plan-kaputar-rock-skink-egernia-roomi-230029.pdf If any climbers are interested in helping with surveys for the skink please contact the ACANSW president.

Some face moves lead to a very nice crack.

Start: The first decent crack line from the right hand end of the cliff (facing the wall), guarded by a large eucalypt.

Up the arete.

The corner crack left of 'Mis Taken'.

Up the left side of the arete.

Start: The arete left of 'Mis Led'

A rare skink is found in this area- it is very important to not disturb rocks on the plateau and access via the base of the cliff is preferable. https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Conservation-Action-Plans-adopted/conservation-action-plan-kaputar-rock-skink-egernia-roomi-230029.pdf If any climbers are interested in helping with surveys for the skink please contact the ACANSW president.

A rare skink is found in this area- it is very important to not disturb rocks on the plateau and access via the base of the cliff is preferable. https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Conservation-Action-Plans-adopted/conservation-action-plan-kaputar-rock-skink-egernia-roomi-230029.pdf If any climbers are interested in helping with surveys for the skink please contact the ACANSW president.

The bulging wall and incipient crack above.

Start: Left of 'The Hippy Hippy Shake'

A rare skink is found in this area- it is very important to not disturb rocks on the plateau and access via the base of the cliff is preferable. https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Conservation-Action-Plans-adopted/conservation-action-plan-kaputar-rock-skink-egernia-roomi-230029.pdf If any climbers are interested in helping with surveys for the skink please contact the ACANSW president.

Up the groove.

Start: Just behind the white Gum Tree. Scant pro in the middle

Up steep knobbly groove 1m left of 'Rack and Ruin'. Left to nose and up.

Up through bulge at 5m then into groove and up.

A rare skink is found in this area- it is very important to not disturb rocks on the plateau and access via the base of the cliff is preferable. https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Conservation-Action-Plans-adopted/conservation-action-plan-kaputar-rock-skink-egernia-roomi-230029.pdf If any climbers are interested in helping with surveys for the skink please contact the ACANSW president.

Up black streak just left of pyramid shaped rock.

A rare skink is found in this area- it is very important to not disturb rocks on the plateau and access via the base of the cliff is preferable. https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Conservation-Action-Plans-adopted/conservation-action-plan-kaputar-rock-skink-egernia-roomi-230029.pdf If any climbers are interested in helping with surveys for the skink please contact the ACANSW president.

UP 'Back Roads' for a couple of moves, then right and up wall (BR) to groove.

A zig-zag line that starts up small black holds, right across slab to corner then back left and up wall.

Double ropes are handy.

Start: 3m left of 'Easing Into Midnight'

A rare skink is found in this area- it is very important to not disturb rocks on the plateau and access via the base of the cliff is preferable. https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Conservation-Action-Plans-adopted/conservation-action-plan-kaputar-rock-skink-egernia-roomi-230029.pdf If any climbers are interested in helping with surveys for the skink please contact the ACANSW president.

Up the left-leaning groove 4m left of 'Back Roads' past a piton, 2 FH and a carrot.

Up through bulge then thin crack up wall (2BRs).

Start: 4m left of 'The Idle Rich'

Up corner on the right side of the roof and continue up. Run-out and scary?

Start: 2m left of 'That Old Soft Shoe'

Start as for 'Nijinsky' up black knobbly rock into corner at 6m. Good runners under roof. Up then left to nose and up (poor pro) to good crack.

A rare skink is found in this area- it is very important to not disturb rocks on the plateau and access via the base of the cliff is preferable. https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Conservation-Action-Plans-adopted/conservation-action-plan-kaputar-rock-skink-egernia-roomi-230029.pdf If any climbers are interested in helping with surveys for the skink please contact the ACANSW president.

Up left side of roof through cracked bulge to slab below second roof. Left across hanging slab to crack. Up, left to second crack and up.

A rare skink is found in this area- it is very important to not disturb rocks on the plateau and access via the base of the cliff is preferable. https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Conservation-Action-Plans-adopted/conservation-action-plan-kaputar-rock-skink-egernia-roomi-230029.pdf If any climbers are interested in helping with surveys for the skink please contact the ACANSW president.

Looks like this partially retro-bolts the top half of 'Morning Glory'.

Start: Just to the right of 'Morning Glory'.

Up knobs for 5m to bulge in solid yellow rock right of 1m roof. Right and up interesting crackless corner and wall.

Start: 15m left of 'Winter Cruise' at the highest point of ground.

Up knobs for 5m to roof, pull round left and up to easier territory.

Start: As for 'Morning Glory'

4m left of 'Morning Glory' and 2m right of 'Abraxas' . Up black knobs, through A-shaped groove through roof (small wires and micro cams). Then up slab delicately following blind seam (no more natural pro past top of overhang).

Up short slab 6m left of 'Morning Glory' then left around overhang and up cracks on right.

Up face 2m left of 'Abraxas' to lovely crack.

A black groove which curves left into a channel-shaped line. Up the brown wall left of the groove then into the channel.

Start: 5m down left of 'Madrigal'.

A rare skink is found in this area- it is very important to not disturb rocks on the plateau and access via the base of the cliff is preferable. https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Conservation-Action-Plans-adopted/conservation-action-plan-kaputar-rock-skink-egernia-roomi-230029.pdf If any climbers are interested in helping with surveys for the skink please contact the ACANSW president.

A rare skink is found in this area- it is very important to not disturb rocks on the plateau and access via the base of the cliff is preferable. https://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/-/media/OEH/Corporate-Site/Documents/Parks-reserves-and-protected-areas/Conservation-Action-Plans-adopted/conservation-action-plan-kaputar-rock-skink-egernia-roomi-230029.pdf If any climbers are interested in helping with surveys for the skink please contact the ACANSW president.

Marked as "D". Up the right leaning black groove 4m left of 'Troubadour', through bulge finishing on either side of bush at top. A bold climb with little decent gear until 2/3 height.

Beginner offwidthing. Go left before bulge and up to off-width pillar. Remember to grunt a lot.

Up to bulge, left, up and out onto wall. Up middle past BR. No more pro after BR.

Start: As for 'Darkangel'.

Up left edge of narrow, semi-detached buttress, then move right to front when the difficulties start. The buttress is visible 10 m left from where the cliff drops down in a gully formed by a large boulder 5 m back from the face.

Start: 9m down from 'Darkangel'.

Up sharp edge 1m left of 'Warlock', left into corner crack and up. Left around roof into good crack to finish.

Bridge up the black groove to difficult climbing through bulge. Move into the right hand crack above the blocks.

Start: 5m left of 'Caliban'.

Climb crack on left side of slab left of 'Black Pearl' for a few metres, then up and right via blind corner to stance. Up and back left (crux) to roof. Traverse right onto large block, step round left into crack-line and up.

Start as for Herbert's dog leg with 18 painted on the rock, 8 m right of where rock changes direction to east face. Use the first few bolts if you want, though there is gear, then go direct up the nose with excellent gear on the left, and continue up good cracks to a vegetated finish as for HDL to DBB

Follow bolts, stepping weirdly left then up and back right before a final thrutch through vegetation to DBB.

Appears to be retro bolted on ring bolts. The route 5m right of where the cliff turns from north to east facing. A small square is just visible from original markings. Start up groove and keep following bolts to flake. Interesting climbing.