Begehungen in Flying Buttress haben Beta

Just didn't quite have it to send today, got stuck trying to be too safe and took a sit getting pumped out trying to work out a move. Felt quite comfortable otherwise.

I top roped, but for the record, the people I spoke to had place a small nut and a very small cam on their leads.

Interesting, nice, surprisingly tricky

Second pitch isn’t worth the hour of faff to get back to the start

Great intro to the moon

Really fun varied pitch

Quality rock

Probably a better finish

Really not that good

So cool! Not doing the direct would be such a shame! But definitely very committing for the grade!

Amazing introduction to Moonarie!

Pitches:

1. 10 Yim (Onsight)

Easy scramble up to the start of the first pitch proper.

1. 15 Me (Onsight)

Grade is accurate if you shoot around the roof to the right. Really fun 3D chimney climbing up to a peg belay.

1. 17 Yim (Onsight) linked

Sweet moves up and through the roof! Very tight if you’ve got a small pack on. No need for big gear to protect the roof, a #4 (DMM) does the job.

Closer to 17 than 15 as suggested by others.

1. 12 Yim (Onsight) linked

The crawl back and forth at the top was great fun. I’ll never forget seeing Yim peering down at me through the top crack as I shuffled through the dirt.

1. 10 Me (Onsight)

The exit pitch.

An easy solo if you go up and left to the major ledge. We roped up in any case.

Ripper. Didn't notice the view until the way back down.

sharing pitches, made it in 3 as running out of gear

In one pitch

This was an epic adventure. Hugh lead the first and third (with the second roof) pitches, and I led the second (with the first roof) and fourth (with the direct epic finish) pitches. We kind of added a pitch to get to the real start and another one to leave the buttress, so it was a long day... I was quite scared at that first roof, and it felt tricky. The direct finish felt easier than the middle pitches. Good to have some big gear. We put the belays according to the verbal description in the book, but that doesn't match the topo so well. Epic climb, too bad I was quite cold the whole time.

Rapped off the swooping pterodactyl anchor down the icarus side of the buttress (60m to the ground)

Although I got myself from bottom to top, I can’t say I’ve done the climb. Pulled on every draw and chickened out of leading my pitch. The rappel down was fun

Started pitch 1 from 20m lower. stolkie lead pitch 2, I lead 3 and paolo 1 & 4

Led in two pitches 60m + 40m

Awesome, but it’s a shame you’ve gotta do the flying buttress escape.

Not overbolted. Fun face climbing

Interesting, and slightly strenuous

This route looks so tempting to warmup on sitting so close to top camp, with it's easy access, moderate grading and a few bolts. But for those of us on a diet of well bolted sport climbs, on good rock quality, this route is trouble! I see from thecrag stats, this route gets almost no action, and those that do venture on to it don't have good things to say. Perhaps a route from a bygone era...

23? Negative! A great route which would see a lot more action if the grade even vaguely reflected the difficulty of the moves.

Cool move at the start and lots of moss at the end.

Easiest 17 in moonarie

Second pitch through the roof is the hardest 15 in moonarie.

Easiest 19 in moonarie

Woah what a crux 🤘

Tough crux at the bolt. Fun route!

Cleaned this up with a wire brush and elbow grease. Now good to go! Bring .1 and .2 for the ledge to go up and safely clip first bolt (or stick clip it). A tough crux but great route! Get on it

Amazing movement! Cleaned the upper slab up with a wire brush. More people should do it!

Jesus what an adventure! Non-stop problem solving from ground to summit. Tanja set the anchor above an inspiring looking crack that defo wasnt the climb, so considering we were miles from anyone, and in a hard place to bail, i did the smart thing and just charged it hoping i could link back later. In this case i was rewarded with beautiful ~gr18 climbing (moonarie grade 7) up a sick crack and a nice airy traverse back to the chimney. Not as nice for tanja on second, unfortunately sparse gear. Tanja stayed on track for p3 and yet again i got way off track on p4, this time ending up 2 climbs right, clipping bolts and doing far sportier moves than i anticipated on the bumbly tradtacular of moonarie. A very sketchy traverse back to the chimney provided some relief and a ledge to belay before the top out. The rope knocked off a large slice of kitkat rock luckily out the way of tanja. Definitely a hazard to consider more carefully. Not hundo pcent sure of the real way on this one but it was either a nails overhanging offwidth or a crumbly mantle. Tanja did the honours; the horizontal squeeze on to the ledge and final top out, bringing us to the top out almost 6 hours after beginning that morning. I felt like this climb taught me alot about climbing at the moon. One to remember. After rereading the description i still dont know where to go at p4 off-width, or whether its supposed to be apart of p3 or 4..

Nervine, buckets of jism and this one for our opening day at the moon. 10hrs of driving the previous day and only 2 stops. Bed times are supremely early out here we learnt from davey and angus, because theres not alot else to do! More time for climbing though, and fk theres some of it alright. Vortex took nicest pitch of the day. A couple big moves on jams, very classy. The boys told us not to bother with p2 and once we saw it from the top we could see why.

Roof + corner on 2nd pitch pretty desperate for the grade (probably 18). People rag on it but I thought it was good!

2nded first pitch: very consistent and exciting climbing. led the 2nd pitch, and that wasn't fun. bad rope drag, mainly a scrable apart from the crux corner which i pulled on my nut to get up

most fun climb of the trip, flowed really well

very chossy and wierd last pitch after some very fun bolt protected moves

Repeat

Repeat

Had a few goes but wasn't super psyched

What a corker!

Awful climbing on a wall that looks better.