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Routen als traditionell in University Buttress

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Zeigt alle 20 Routen.

Schwierigkeitsgrad Route Stil Beliebtheit
21 Two Angry Young Men
Traditionell 50m, 2
16 Sisyphus
Traditionell 55m, 2
19 Pete's Power Plummet
Traditionell 70m, 3
18 Cleavage

Cracks left of the Triclinicity corner, to DBB.

Traditionell 20m
18 Triclinicity

The clean hand crack. Either step left at the roof (grade 17) or continue direct up the crack (grade 19). Belay anchors at top.

Erstbegehung: P. Robinson, K. Bischoff & Mar 1981., 1981

Traditionell 20m
21 Wide Boy

Erstbegehung: R. Parkyn & O. Gervasoni, Feb 2015

Gemischt trad 24m, 2
15 Ozymandias
Traditionell 65m
22 Blind Vision

Erstbegehung: R Parkyn, Mär 2015

Traditionell 47m, 2
22 Blank Generation
Traditionell 60m, 2
17 Chancellor Direct

Start: Starts at the clean RH facing corner near the foot of Avalanche Couloir

  1. 35m (17) Up the corner and face to the overhang. Pass this on the L and continue up the line to a ledge at the base of a detached pillar

  2. 25m (16) Climb up behind the pillar, then up the crack above. At the top traverse R to the abseil anchors at the top of Carpe Diem

Erstbegehung: I. Lewis & L. Closs, 1972

Traditionell 60m, 2
16 Chancellor

Takes the prominent corner line immediately right of Chancellor Direct about 8m up the left side of Avalanche Couloir. Start in the big broken right facing corner as for Vice Chancellor or start up the short wall just right of Chancellor Direct to meet the big corner after 8m. This second option doesn't add much other than the possibility of a painful ground fall.

  1. 30m. Follow the corner for 15m, traverse left and up to small square ledge. Climb the awkward crack to belay on an exposed ledge on the wall.

  2. 25m. Up the clean crack above. The move off the next ledge into the crack was originally aided. At the top traverse right to the rap anchors at the top of Carpe Diem.

Erste freie Begeh.: Unknown

Erstbegehung: M. Douglas & T. Terry, 1967

Traditionell 55m, 2
11 Vice Chancellor

Starts as for Chancellor in the big right facing corner between Chancellor Direct and Carpe Diem.

  1. 14m. Up Chancellor to a stance.

  2. 24m. Climb to the base of the long chimney directly above. Gain the chimney directly via a 5m double crack, then continue up to the large chockstone.

  3. 18m. Climb out around the chockstones and up the final corner crack.

Erstbegehung: G.Batten, M. Douglas & R. Mansfield, 1968

Traditionell 56m, 3
19 Carpe Diem

Brilliant face climbing. A double set of small/medium wires very useful. About 10m right of CD is a recessed column. Scramble up to the base with care. Up, till you can step right onto the column proper. Follow shallow r facing corner till the gear fizzles out, then reach righ to gain hidden flake. Follow this up to gain top of column. There is a DBB a few metres up and left.

Traditionell 45m
20 Piping Hot

Crack to right of carpet diem with roof at 20m.

Traditionell 30m
18 Sphygmus
Traditionell 18m
20 Clench Your Fist and Think of England
Traditionell 18m
19 Falstaff
Traditionell 25m
18 Canapes

1a. A tasty morsel climbing the left-hand arete. Thoughtful moves past the bolts, then over the small roof, with a trad hand crack to the DBB (17m).

1b. Extra Nibbles. (17) If you want a little more trad action, climb the alternative start up the crack just around to the left of Canapes, joining the original route above the roof.

Erstbegehung: B. Bull, T. McKenny & I. Crossland, Dez 2016

Gemischt trad 17m, 2
18 The Cocktail Hour

The arete directly off the walking track. Good but spaced protection.

Erstbegehung: Tony McKenny & Bob Bull, 2016

Traditionell 17m
17 Aperitif

Starts directly from the track between Bulging Buttress and University Buttress. Climb right side of arete on flakes and horizontals.

Traditionell 30m

Zeigt alle 20 Routen.

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