Routen in Mt Cole

Extremely run out.

Bolts extremely hard to find.

Best reached by abseiling in on 2 ropes from the native cherry trees at the Nth end of cliff.

Starts just below confidence Trick at a flake, crack.

Starts 8m R of Pitstop where the angle drops back at the lowest part of the cliff and there's a shallow black groove.

Companion Route to Traitors Gate, but takes a more direct line.

Start as for Cobblers

Follows the R edge of the central slab, starts in the large gully in the centre of the cliff, L of Peeping Tom. 3x50m Pitches.

Up the rib of buttresses on the R of the central recessed wall (top of the gully).

From the base of the buttress L of Yasser. 3rd Pitch Steps down to the R and ascents short corner (this last pitch could be done in it's own right by rapping down 30m from the rap chains).

Great sustained climbing, although there are some long runouts on the 2nd crux pitch, and belay stances not very clear. Start at the block that leans against cliff. Up the LH side of the face L of Yasser. 1) 35m, BR at 10m. 2) 45m 18, 3 BR's and some gear - up to a rounded horn (sling) - belay above. 3) 50m, Up crack, moving L to buttress, climb the RH arete (poor pro) to easy ground. 4) 20m - Up to belay in cracks on headwall; walk off R.

An enjoyable mixed trad and carrot bolt slab climb on good friction slab.

-Pitch 1 ~40m, grade 12: Start on the block 3-6m left of the descent line and head directly upwards to a double carrot bolt anchor. Multiple good pieces of pro along the way, no carrot bolts. Avoid using the bolt on Endless Summer which is 4-5m to the left.

-Pitch 2 ~40m, grade 14: Continue from double bolt belay upwards for 4-5m then ever so slightly to the left before heading back towards the short shallow let facing corner. From here head up and slightly back to the left until a ledge on which a natural anchor can be constructed in the crack. Again various trad gear available and without carrot bolts.

-Pitch 3 ~40m, grade 13: Head directly up from ledge past multiple carrot bolts and staying to the left of the darker moss, flattens out over the bulge to a double hanger belay.

-Pitch 4 ~30m, grade 13: Head up and slightly to the left on easy territory, staying well to the right of the vegetated crack. Over the lip and then on easy ground to the rappel anchors.

Our intent was a safe and well protected and hopefully one available to the masses. I think we succeeded.

Start 15mt down below the Endless Summer - Yasser block and just past a jumble of boulders.

1. 40m. (13) Testing moves up to a bolt at 6mt. Follow a seam heading left and past a cam placement. Move up left past a second bolt to the right and on to 2 bomber cam placements in a seam back to you left. Straight up past 2 more bolts to a couple of thin moves below the belay (DFH) on a small headwall.

2. 45m (14) Head out right and up then straight up past 4 more bolts. From the 4th bolt you can continue straight up past a 5th bolt or move left to a series of "brilliant" pockets and a bolt to the belay (DFH)

3. 45m (15) Yet another "brilliant" pitch. From the belay head straight up past 6 more bolts. (A small cam can be found between the 2nd and the 3rd bolt if required) The last part of this pitch has some "brilliant" friction climbing if you stay in the line of bolts. Continue up to where the angle eases and belay at the DFH

4. 35m (15) Easily up to the overlap on natural gear and to a bolt above on the right hand end. Step up and make thin moves to more natural gear and continue up to belay at the abseil boulder.

And the name!! Well we thought the climb was "Brilliant"

Start of the foot of the buttress, at pronounced water streak.

Slab climbing. Starts up Peeping Tom (foot of buttress), but goes R from BR at 14m. There's a traverse R on the 3rd Pitch. Bit run out. Mostly bolt runners. Take hangers.

Starts at the L most black streak on the face 30m up the gully right of the toe of the buttress.

"Superb, run-out slabbing pitch". A direct first pitch to Tom Tom, finishing at that climb's 3rd belay stance.

Start from Terrace just up R of Millionaire.

Clean rock and great 2nd pitch. From the base of peeping Tom, scramble down and R through scrub and down to the base of a large grey slab. Last pitch finishes L wards towards the abseil descent.

First pitch as for Millionaire, P2 takes the buttress above up past bush and thin flakes.

Way over R before the main wall begins to shorten.

I climbed this in the mid-1990s and the bolts were completely rusted out and came out in my hand. I can't imagine they have got any better since.

Long way down on the North Cliff, this climb is identified by a step-like fault line that begins on a large treed ledge at the base and continues (slightly right trending), onto the slabs above. The "steps" are about the size of your hand and harder to climb than they look. The first pitch (40m), accepts numerous nut placements of varying sizes, as well as the 9 carrot bolts, so it's not run out, so long as you treat it as a mixed trad and sport route.

Crack at left of slab

Easy weakness up the middle

Crack and crimps at the righ end of slab.

It's good. Stand start with good left hand on top of block, right-hand lower in the curved feature. Dynamically reach rightwards to the seam, delicately transfer over and follow the seam up to the finish.

Throwing hands leading to a messy concolusion. Sit start deep in the cove, with left hand on the arete, with a right-hand in crack. Dynamically jam into the flared crack with good feet, then nice balancey moves to gain the top of the arete. Once there, rest, move left to straddle the arete and fumble around messily for holds which don't entirely exist to top out.

The squeeze-chimney/offwidth at the very back-left of the cove (looking downhill), first half being trickier than it looks

Sit start with hands on low flat ledge and big triangle jug. Up into easy finger-jam, and follow the the seam to the top with an excellent view.

Start as for Nae Driech, but once standing on the start jug, traverse right and continue up the middle of the face. Excellent slabby movement, but the holds on this section are a bit untrustworthy

Straight up. At the top, step across to big Boulder to the right and downclimb to start of problem

Right and up At the top, step across to big Boulder to the right and downclimb to start of problem