Hilfe

Main Wall

  • Bewertungskontext: AU
  • Fotos: 38
  • Begehungen: 5
10

Saisonalität

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Übersicht

Dominated by the 90m high wall.

Beschreibung

Rhyolite columns, separated by vegetated cracks. Rock is rather soft a & friable.

Climbs arranged L to R.

Einschränk. übernommen von Maggie's Farm

Mobile phone reception is virtually nonexistent here. As of 2019 - Telstra has some coverage, Optus=a little, Vodafone =0. A 000 call connects with any carrier available. Have tick repellent with you: do a tick inspection at the crag & when you get back to the car. Some have encountered leeches here as well.

Zustieg

As per Maggie's Farm

Ethik übernommen von Maggie's Farm

Please close the gate at the Jurd Bridge crossing. National Park = no pets or animals allowed.

Geschichte

Grafik zur historischen Entwicklung

The very first route at Maggie's Farm was Condemned Cell. Established by Rick White & Ted Cais in April 1972: Rick established another 2 long (90m) routes here within 2 months. Robert Staszewski & Joe Lynch established another 4 routes here in the 80s. Mark Plenderleith established his hard bolted route up the blank slab Right of OBC in 1995, but the bolts have since been chopped as they were perceived as intruding upon the already established trad lines there: Snakebelly & Suspended Animation.

Tags

Routen

Route(n) hinzufügen Topo hinzufügen Neu sortieren Stapelbearbeitung Konvert. Grade
Schwierigkeitsgrad Route

Thin finger crack Left of OBC. Up to same ledge as OBC & TB.

Erstbegehung: Joe Lynch & Rob Staszewski, 1980

Obvious crackline with the tree growing out of it at 2/3 height. Tricky start to first gear. Somewhat vegetated, but technical crack climbing. Surmount the tree and up to the ledge above & rap off tree.

Erstbegehung: Joe Lynch & Robert Staszewski, 1980

Was bolted, these have been chopped.

(The person who chopped the bolts has the philosophy that sports routes & trad routes should not inhabit the same cliff as bolts intrude upon the trad ethic.)

Erste freie Begeh.:

Erstbegehung: Andrew Horchner & Mark Plenderleith, 1995

Locate the flake Right of OBC.

Up Right side of flake, then Left across ledge to thin handcrack & up to ledge & TB.

Erstbegehung: Robert Staszewski & Joe Lynch, 1980

A spearing handcrack on the face of the pillar Left of BOTE.

Layaway over to crack, on thin holds. Once established, follow this superb line up to the top of roofs, then move left around to tree.

Erstbegehung: Joe Lynch & Rob Staszewski, 1980

Climb the large, obvious chimney: the first big Right facing corner from the Left.

Start by scrambling desperately up the gully over loose ground and into the chimney. The key to solid rock is to climb the first crack in the left wall to avoid bad rock near the start, then up on an incredible assortment of cracks & chimneys.

By avoiding the loose sections, this route offers great & mostly easy climbing throughout.

Erstbegehung: Rick White & Ian Cameron, 1972

Climbing up a long crack 1" to 2" in width. A classic second pitch by going up the enclosed chimney.

On the wall, Right of BOTE, a tree at 30m.

  1. Ascend the crack to the tree.

  2. Continue with magnificent (easier) climbing up the enclosed chimney to top.

Erstbegehung: Rick White & Ian Cameron, 1972

"The best, first, & hardest route here. Three hard pitches up this magnificent corner." (Rick's original entry for RURP magazine September 1972.)

The 2nd prominent Right facing corner, Left of SHB. Straight up the manky chimney/corner passing an overhanging block at 40-50m.

Has the distinction of being the very first route established at Maggie's Farm.

Erstbegehung: Ted Cais & Rick White, 1972

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Selected Guidebooks mehr Verbergen

Autor(en): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Datum: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Autor(en): Simon Carter

Datum: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Unterkünfte in der Nähe mehr Verbergen

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