Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | Kletterer | |||
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So 12. Mai 2024 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
V5/6 | ★ Le rocher explosif | 3m | ★ Gut | ||||
This was so painful, the incredibly sharp crimps to go along with bleeding hands. This climb will get much harder if it gets any kind of regular attempts aswell, the main crimp in the center of the wall is completely hollow and flexes when you pull off it, could be an actual v6 or v7 when that hold breaks off.
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Fr 10. Mai 2024 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
Mosquito Lands Grinch Boulder | |||||||
V8 | ★ Whosville Extension | 4m | ★ Gut | ||||
This boulder ruined my skin more than any climb has in almost 8 years of climbing, the top section is a heartbreaker
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V6 | ★ Whosville — 3 Versuche | 2m | ★ Gut | ||||
Feet are a luxury not present on this boulder, little nubs kept snapping off under me
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V5 | ★ A Pinch of the Grinch | ★ Gut | |||||
Some interesting movement, not the best not the worst, just gotta trust that heel bigtime
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So 13. Aug 2023 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
Flaky Walls | |||||||
15 | Occupational Hazard | 10m | Durchschnitt | ||||
Nice jams.
Crumbly bits
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Fr 8. Jul 2022 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
Diamond Wall | |||||||
7 | Sic Transit Gloria Fridi | 12m | |||||
spontaneous chimney shimmying fun
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Sa 8. Jan 2022 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Main Mantle | ★ Gut | |||||
I thought I was on James E but this description matches the moves...
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Sa 8. Jan 2022 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
Diamond Wall | |||||||
17 | ★★ Ace of Diamonds | 13m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Climb of the day - really enjoyed this one
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17 | ★★ Ace of Diamonds | 13m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Climb of the day - really enjoyed this one
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13 | A Girls Best Friend | 16m | Durchschnitt | ||||
Hard
"Be careful of the rock"
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Sa 8. Jan 2022 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
18 | ★ Slab and Tickle | 7m | ★ Gut | ||||
11 | ★ Eau D'ear | 7m | ★ Gut | ||||
Great name!
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17 | ★★ Meet Me Tonight in Atlantic City | 7m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Interesting moves getting out of the cave
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12 | Orgasmatron | 7m | ★ Gut | ||||
Off route - Used top arete
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Sa 11. Sep 2021 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
V4 V4/5 | ★★ Bellydancer | ||||||
Was a strong move out of the overhang but was so close.
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V1 | ★ Baby Cricket | 4m | |||||
V2 | ★ Hopping - mit Callum Brett, Kachow, Mana | 3m | |||||
V1 | ★★ Buzzing - mit Callum Brett, Kachow, Mana | 3m | |||||
11 | ★ Eau D'ear | 7m | ★ Gut | ||||
V1 | ★★ Main Mantle | ★★ Sehr gut | |||||
good clean fun
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V2 | ★ The Sport of Golf | 5m | |||||
slab sequence seemed veeery blank and unforgiving. Chucked a rope on and got the slab clean a few times, now to come back in cooler weather when I'm feeling fresher and get the send
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V2 | ★ Renegade of Funk | 4m | |||||
definitely need some beta for this one! no feet/hands to be seen!
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V4 V4/5 | ★★ Bellydancer | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
some super strong super fun moves here! used a very burly heel hook to start the mantle and then definitely relied more on shoulder/lat strength than technique finish. would say the grade felt about right
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11 | ★ Eau D'ear | 7m | |||||
V1 | ★★ Buzzing | 3m | |||||
warm up
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V1 | ★ Baby Cricket | 4m | ★ Gut | ||||
V2 | ★ Hopping | 3m | ★ Gut | ||||
little contrived, but still a good fun start to the day
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So 4. Jul 2021 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
V1 | ★ Baby Cricket | 4m | ★ Gut | ||||
Got some jamming practice in, and hidden from the tourists!
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V2 | ★ Hopping | 3m | |||||
V1 | ★★ Buzzing | 3m | |||||
V1 | ★★ Main Mantle | ||||||
Jugs that make you go mmmmm
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11 | ★ Eau D'ear | 7m | |||||
Di 30. Jun 2020 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
Terror Oasis | |||||||
90 Degrees project | |||||||
Played around briefly on the start to check it wasn't 100% impossible - could pull of the ground.. but very hard, would be surprised a) if this ever gets climbed, and b) if it's anything less than decent double-digit grade.. but such an impressive arete seemed a shame not to mark it up. Some scrubbing might uncover some much needed footers
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V3 | FA ★★ The Unfittable | 4m | |||||
Really cool climb - not many climbs around SA with a kneebar to set up a handjam transition into a double-fist-jam followed by a balancecy shuffle into another fist jam. Initially I tried to finish up the offwidthy break - but after convincing myself to start up it, I realised I couldn't actually fit..
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The Unflappable project | 3m | ||||||
Needs some lichen scrubed of the top as it looks fairly sketchy in it's current state. Also a shame the holds kind of coerce you into leaning your weight straight at the slab wall to the left - can climb it without doing that, but the holds become worse
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Di 30. Jun 2020 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
V4 V4/5 | ★★ Bellydancer | ★★★ Klassiker | |||||
Well rested so sent this fairly easily first try today. May be on the easier side of V4 physically, but beta is somewhere between bizarre and very flexible, so don't think it's V3. Extending this from the lower right hand is doable but exceptionally hard so we gave up on it for now
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Do 25. Jun 2020 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Buzzing | 3m | |||||
Nice warmup, and fun little climb
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V1 | ★ Baby Cricket | 4m | |||||
Rock still felt faintly wet as hadn't gotten much sun, which made the top feel pretty.. exciting (although I had missed a good hold in the crack higher which would have make things a bit more secure). Can be climbed in a lot of different ways
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V4 V4/5 | ★★ Bellydancer | ||||||
Got so close just before Pete sent this, with less bizarre-than-Pete-but-not-much beta of heel-hooking up left with a second kneebar sideways-mantle-thing. Close but shoulders weren't up to any more attempts. Glad Pete sent this first with the "belly shuffle campus" followed by double-alpine-knee beta, and thus the name! Really unique climb
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Fr 17. Apr 2020 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
V3 | Golf Is Not A Sport | ||||||
V2 | ★ The Sport of Golf | 5m | |||||
Exit is so sketchy
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V1 | ★ Baby Cricket | 4m | |||||
V2 | ★ Renegade of Funk | 4m | |||||
V3 | ★ Bruce | 4m | ★ Gut | ||||
Not a v3 but fun still
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V1 | ★★ Buzzing | 3m | |||||
V2 | ★ Hopping | 3m | |||||
Sa 15. Feb 2020 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Buzzing | 3m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Di 11. Feb 2020 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
V4 | Chilean | 3m | |||||
V4 | ★ Instantaneous Combustion | 3m | Durchschnitt | ||||
V1 | ★★ Buzzing | 3m | |||||
V2 | ★ Hopping | 3m | |||||
V1 | ★ Baby Cricket | 4m | |||||
11 | ★ Eau D'ear | 7m | |||||
V2 | ★ Renegade of Funk | 4m | |||||
V3 | ★ Bruce | 4m | |||||
So 9. Feb 2020 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
V2 V3 | ★ Bruce | 4m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Too easy for a V3 - V2 is more reasonable
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So 9. Feb 2020 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
Upper Falls | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Andy's Slab - mit Ollie Dow | 3m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Worked the first couple of moves at the end of the session and assessed the top out.
Seems do-able and well graded, will require better skin and possibly another 2-3 pads to make the fall safer. |
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So 9. Feb 2020 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
V4 | ★ Instantaneous Combustion - mit Ollie Dow | 3m | Durchschnitt | ||||
Based on my ability and past experience I would have graded this a V3.
I don't believe this to be a classic or even a 1 star climb. The rock was crumbly and part of the flaky crimp was hollow and moving under weight. A rock also fell from being touched on the way up. This could be a 1-2 star climb if loose crumbly rock was scraped away.
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V1 | ★★ Buzzing - mit Ollie Dow | 3m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
A really cool sequence with very solid holds
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V2 | ★ Hopping - mit Ollie Dow | 3m | ★ Gut | ||||
A bold hop on a slab made for an interesting send.
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V1 | ★ Baby Cricket - mit Ollie Dow | 4m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Really nice dihedral problem.
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11 | ★ Eau D'ear - mit Ollie Dow | 7m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
Nice warm up solo with interesting mantle start.
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V2 | ★ Renegade of Funk - mit Ollie Dow | 4m | ★ Gut | ||||
Seemed really hard for the grade set. Slippery slopey feet with no hand holds to be seen. May require a beta from someone. Would personally grade it a V3.
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V2 V3 | ★ Bruce - mit Ollie Dow | 4m | ★ Gut | ||||
A cool climb with some bold slab movement to the top. Felt more like a V2.
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V2 | ★ The Sport of Golf - mit Ollie Dow | 5m | ★ Gut | ||||
Nice moves to begin, but slab proved to be to blank and slippery to move up on. Will attempt again in cooler weather.
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So 1. Dez 2019 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
A Rather Useless Outcrop | |||||||
8 | Outer Limits | 7m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
So 1. Dez 2019 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
Diamond Wall | |||||||
10 | ★ Paddy Melon | 10m | ★★ Sehr gut | ||||
So 1. Dez 2019 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
12 | Orgasmatron | 7m | ★ Gut | ||||
Next time I tackle it with a calmer mind and tape/gloves!
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Sa 14. Sep 2019 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
12 | Orgasmatron - mit Paul Gray | 7m | Vergiss es | ||||
15 | FA Le triomphe de l'homme sur la toilette | 7m | Durchschnitt | ||||
Good wire for the crux, reasonable rock.
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16 | ★ Slab and Tickle LHF | 7m | ★ Gut | ||||
Tried the onsight lead but decided to save my ankles for the City-Bay.
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So 23. Jun 2019 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
V1 | ★★ Buzzing | 3m | |||||
Good, and grade seems about right I think
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V2 | ★ Hopping | 3m | |||||
Can also be done statically using the arete also. May be a V1 also, not sure
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V5/6 | ★ Le rocher explosif (L'explosif Project) | 3m | |||||
Pulling of the ground was much harder than it looked. Eventually got that move, but exceptionally hard to stand up high enough to get to the central crimp. From there still hard but done the moves to top after a few tries. Seems doable, although that central crimp hold does not sound long for this world (pretty hollow, although the rest of the holds seem solid)
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So 4. Nov 2018 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
16 | FA ★ Slab and Tickle LHF | 7m | |||||
"Solo" although with boulder pad, doesn't have much gear. Not too sure about the grade of this; I assume the crux is still the start, and the mossy direct line didn't look difficult (I just didn't feel like spending ages scrubbing lichen of every hold I wanted to use) which would imply the grade is similar to the original.. but didn't feel close to an 18 - 16 still feels a little high but maybe about right
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18 | ★ Slab and Tickle | 7m | |||||
Start was fine, upper half is entirely thick lichen which completely obscured any semblance of holds, so bailed to crack on left which turned out to be quite nice (and probably a more sensible variant given the lichen)
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11 | ★ Eau D'ear | 7m | |||||
Exceptionally high-step required for start but otherwise easy. Some kids maybe about 8 years old scrambled down the start which was amusing.
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20 | James E | 7m | |||||
With bouldering pad. Seems very easy for grade (although it's mostly just a weird mantle and I like weird mantles) - and all the climbing is over in the first 2 moves before it links up into Eau D'ear
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V4 | Chilean | 3m | |||||
Had enough tape on fingers that this was borderline aid-climbing, as all the right-hand holds were sharp crimps with poor feet.. but otherwise nice enough climb. Did the sit-start with left-hand on top of the low "arete hold" and right-hand on the hold on the face, possibly should have ~matched the left hand?
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Sa 30. Sep 2017 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
Diamond Wall | |||||||
7 | Sic Transit Gloria Fridi - mit Kate W | 12m | Durchschnitt | ||||
Cruisy
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13 | A Girls Best Friend - mit Kate W | 16m | ★ Gut | ||||
Seemed hard for a 13
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Mo 18. Sep 2017 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
12 | Orgasmatron - mit Hannah, Carl Schneider | 7m | |||||
Really akward top-out onto mostly mud - ended up with all weight on one hand, pulled out a dead plant trying to find holds and used the divit in the mud it left behind to adjust my hand, hand-foot match and didn't fall to last cam about 1.5m below..
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4 | All Thunked Out - mit , Carl Schneider, Hannah | 9m | |||||
River was high, so had to start at bottom of Whippersnapper and travers up the rising rail, which was an excellent alternative start, more than made up for the unexpectedly easy slab afterwards (wasn't sure what the line was beforehand)
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Do 22. Dez 2016 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
Upper Falls | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Andy's Slab | 3m | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Classic, if I can say so myself
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So 7. Jun 2015 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
12 | Orgasmatron | 7m | |||||
top out is not fun on loose small stones
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Sa 12. Jul 2014 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
Flaky Walls | |||||||
22 | ★ Beware of the Drone - mit Aaron Keen | 12m | ★ Gut | ||||
Only top roped at the moment maybe bolt it if possible. Enjoyable climb. Balancey, crimpy and you need to trust your feet.
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So 6. Jul 2014 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
Diamond Wall | |||||||
13 | ★ Ace of Diamonds (Piker's Variant) | 15m | ★ Gut | ||||
13 | FA ★ Ace of Diamonds (Piker's Variant) | 15m | ★ Gut | ||||
Must have been climbed before!
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Sa 12. Jan 2002 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
Flaky Walls | |||||||
17 | FA The Pursuit of Happiness | 12m | Durchschnitt | ||||
Gritty rock, toproped.
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2002 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
Diamond Wall | |||||||
13 | A Girls Best Friend | 16m | Durchschnitt | ||||
Adventurous
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2002 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
Flaky Walls | |||||||
15 | Occupational Hazard | 10m | Vergiss es | ||||
True grit required.
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So 6. Mai 2001 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
Diamond Wall | |||||||
17 | FA ★ Le Lezard | 12m | ★ Gut | ||||
The lump of rock L of Diamond Wall. Good pro, at least for the first half.
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Di 1. Mai 2001 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
Diamond Wall | |||||||
10 | ★ Paddy Melon | 10m | Durchschnitt | ||||
Nice sandy landing area - even talked John G. into soloing this.
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7 | Sic Transit Gloria Fridi | 12m | Vergiss es | ||||
A scramble.
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2000 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
6 | The Gash | 8m | |||||
2000 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
Diamond Wall | |||||||
10 | ★ Paddy Melon | 10m | Durchschnitt | ||||
7 | Sic Transit Gloria Fridi | 12m | Durchschnitt | ||||
2000 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
10 | Treebeard | 8m | |||||
11 | ★ Eau D'ear | 7m | |||||
So 9. Mai 1999 - Reedy Creek | |||||||
The Gallery | |||||||
12 | FA Orgasmatron | 7m | Vergiss es | ||||
Because it was there.
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