Routen in Tidbinbilla area

Start on the southern side of the summit group of boulders at a left leaning fist crack. Up the flake and diagonal crack. Move left along the ledge and up the slab past a bolt to the summit. Down-climb and go to the pub. Take Camalot 2-4.

The short open corner 5 metres right of 'Captain Crystal' with one bolt. Finish up the slab on the right.

And fast drilling. Start 10 metres right of 'McCoy's Arete'. Use a dead branch to get to the first bolt. Crank up on drilled finger pockets to a big flake, then cruise up to the top past two more bolts.

Climb the block in the corner, then handcrack. Has probably been done before...

The easiest crack on the uphill side of the boulder. Bolt belay at the top.

The amazing line of disconnected cracks splitting the blunt arête.

Exciting. Originally M4, the free version follows a slightly different line. Start in 'The Pits' proper, below the obvious lines about five metres right of 'Parole'. Subtle moves at half height lead to layaways up the left-hand line. Clip a bolt from the ledge, and up.

The slabby corner at the left hand end of the crag. A good beginner's lead.

Up the corner on the left side

The obvious chimney six metres right of 'Midsummer Madness'.

On the boulder directly below 'The Lure' is a pleasant slabby groove with a harder start. A lovely line and fun climbing.

This is on a small boulder 20 metres off the walking track. Best approach is to find the "Granites" sign on the Tidbinbilla walking track (10m uphill from the lookout platform and Mario). Walk directly uphill for 20m or so to the boulder. Climb up the left side of the flake, then up the crack to the top.

The first line you see when approaching the crag. A short but lovely crack and a good beginner's lead.

To the right of 'Low Hydrogen'. Climb the easy crack to the ledge, then up the thin crack to the top.

“Quite possibly the best tips crack this side of the black stump”. Would be three stars but for its down market location and cheating potential. Hidden on a wall in the chimney on the other side of “Cold in July” and approached deviously from the other side of this.

Finger sized gear from #0.3 to #0.5 camalots (mostly around #0.4) or equivalent.

For the grade (and the glory) use of the opposing chimney wall is banned i.e. start directly off the chockstones at its base NOT off the ledge on the wall immediately behind you. Finish up the easy brushed slab where the crack curves to horizontal a few metres below the top. Bolt belay/rap-off.

And no whinging about water ice on the wall next to the crack and 2 inches of snow on the starting chockstone and on the top slab - it hasn’t been climbed any other way.

So get off your knees, kiss your tips, say goodbye and it’ll all be over in less time than it takes you to read the route description.

Start in 'The Pits' proper, right of Happy Piggyland. Up the crack, chimney past a bolt and squeeze onto the Knife Edge Boulder. Finish as for Holy Guacamole.

Start a couple of metres right of 'Spaghetti O's'. Hard moves off the ground following seam then crack. Continue past 2 bolts to lower offs.

The layback crack on the right hand side of the lower tier. Up the crack. Finish at the half-height anchor. Better than it looks.

start just right of the arete, follow the groove then continue up the arete

On a wavy slab 30 metres left of 'The Lure'. Up the middle; a delightful slab with an enhanced wire placement.

This climb is right next to the Tidbinbilla walking track, about 20 metres uphill from the lookout platform. There's a bush growing out of the crack at two thirds height. Layback up the flake then follow the crack, which widens at the top (take a large cam).

Corner crack with perfect jams 5m left of Terrapin.

The overhanging hand to fist crack, broken by a ledge, on the downhill side of the boulder. Flaky rock - take care.

Right-leaning crack / ramp

The crack just right of 'Blood for a Silver Dollar'. Step left at the top to use the same anchors.Take some smaller cams. No excuse if it's wet...

Crack and corner on the right of the main face

Start about 30 metres left of 'Sound as a Trout'. Up the dirty scoop and pull onto the slab above. Originally two bolts, now back in its natural state of none.

The far side of a boulder 30 metres to the left of, and just downhill from 'Low Interest', sports a right facing, dainty little corner crack offering fingerlocking and stemming moves.[-35.526836,148.910691]

This obscure 'gem' can be found on the way, 20 metres to the left of the road, just before the gate. It is a short curving hand crack on a boulder.

Two pitches.

1. Thrutch up the brilliant corner crack to the right of Arthropod, then belay from the great ledge. (20)

2. Start up the chimney 5m to the right of Void and then go through the roof to top. (15)

The hand crack on an isolated boulder 20m right (looking uphill) of the previous climbs, with a 'knucklebuster' start.

The righthand line with two bolts. Pleasant face climbing.

Short hand crack on the southernmost boulder in the main group, visible to the north from the road.

The short (almost boulder problem) 50m south of The Wellerman.

Climbs the soaring chimney on the approach to Innocence.

The thin crack up the prominent orange streak. Either finish at the lower-off on the ledge, or follow the crack up through two more bulges (Twin Set).

Starts at a block on the left wall. Pull right onto the arete and then up, passing one bolt. The direct finish up the arete would be recommended if it had another bolt.

Fist crack and flake on the southeast side of the large boulder to the north of No Reservations. Climbed in a blizzard. All routes on this boulder are served by a single-bolt belay.

The squeeze chimney between 'Rumble Fish' and 'Agent Orange Victim'.

The vertical hand/fist crack that splits the main boulder.

Tackles the short but interesting line in right wall of the alcove 20m left of Christmas in July. Take the left (easier) or right crack on good hand jambs to the wider steep finish.

The flake crack 200m south (uphill) from the submarine. Probably the only viable climb amongst the main boulders.

The blunt arete and slab 5m right of My Name is Luka. Can take a small cam. Rap anchor. Bolt replaced 2009.

Behind and right from 'Pygmy Chicken' and 'Rubbery Tuk-awah' is another tier of boulders. This route is on the left wall of a chimney in the centre of the tier.

A bouldery start to the first bolt then good moves past one more to the top.

The layback flake five metres right of Snow Storm.

Start as for Crawlin' King Snake. Traverse right along horizontal break on natural pro and finish up the Disco Cobra slab to top-out. Retro-trad run-out for purists.

Diagonal groove with two bolts right of 'Billy Bonkers'. A #3 Camalot in the groove protects the bouldery start (or stick clip first bolt). Up grove past 2 bolts to ledge, up short corner then pull left to finish on broad ledge as for '72 Virgins'. Gear after the bolts: Camalots from #0.5 to #3 and a couple of extender slings .

The off-width immediately to the left of RY.

Doesn't let up; the best of the lot here. Jump start (crux; it is also possible to traverse in from the right) to a horizontal break two metres left of 'Barbary Ape' and up the thin crack to a mantle (second crux). Finish up through the rooflets.

The loose chimney at the left-hand side of the roof split by an off-width.

The off-width crack that splits the roof and face overlooking the Knife Edge Boulder.

The flake crack 50m W of the summit boulder.

The obvious chimney on the east side of main outcrop.

The bolted, slabby arete on the right hand side of a boulder at the northern end of the 'Spider's Web'.

Thin crack five metres right of Snow Flake. Rightwards up to a flake and finish up the slab on the right.

Start 2m right of Juveniles. The unprotected arete into crack.

Up the short mossy wall in whatever way you please

The short, easy (relatively) off-width corner right of '72 Virgins'. Up corner, traverse right (#4 or #5 Camalot with long sling) into 'End of Innocence' and finish up this.

the off-width splitting the wall to the right of The Rip. Every effort was made to topple the detached pedestal at the start but it would not budge so is deemed solid.

The broken crack system from the ground to the top, finishing up the flared chimney.

The left hand route at the crag. Start off the block underneath the wide crack. Bouldery off the deck into and up the wide crack, traverse right and up the corner. Tough for the grade.

Clean, cool three sided chimney with two corner cracks. On the north side of the outcrop, find the narrow chimney and squeeze through, walking 10 metres deeper to the wider start. Medium gear belay and scramble down into the middle of the outcrop.

The thin crack system on the closest side of the eastern boulder.

The short corner on the back (north side) of the boulder. Up to a block, then easily up the mossy slab to the top.

This small slanting handcrack faces Gibralter Creek in a small tor slightly higher than and about 400m east of Snake Rock. It is probably the only climb here.

Fantastic hand crack in a chimney. Hi Oli

The open book corner. Bring a #6 if you want pro in the last 5 metres.

A good little shady slab. The start is located about 30m left of the tourist track. Leave the track near the information sign. As of January 2016 the approach is a little overgrown and you'll have to push through light scrub. It's worth persevering though, and the climb itself is clean. Belay on shrubs and gear.

Start one metre right of 'Angel Wings'. Up the wall to a good undercling, then through the rooflet on good edges. Needs a bolt (climbed with a high runner in the crack).

Finishing in the far left corner (looking out) of this area, where you pop out from under the huge balanced boulder, is this small gem of a climb, requiring jamming and some constricted slab moves.

Start on the same block as FAFITE. Committing start to get established in the corner. Layback to glory. It is possible to step right to the AS anchor.

A steep, meaty offwidth start (point of aid) leads to a great hand crack to be top. Same belay as The Broom Closet.

Start 1m left of Easy Rider. The sharp seam to DBB. Continue up Easy Rider.

Continue about 50 metres further northwards along the ridge from the 'Spider's Web' and turn left at the "hamburger" boulder.

The nice finger crack on the northern side of the outcrop on the left.[-35.526005,148.912542]

On an isolated boulder down (northwest) from Small Pox. Steeply up to first bolt (crux) then follow the groove past another bolt to a single-bolt rap station. Bolted by persons unknown. Bolts are carrots, are looking a little rusty as of 2021, and there is quite a bit of exfoliation. Another mystery carrot is visible high and left of this route.

Thin diagonal crack with narrow ramp using finger locks and lay-aways to ledge. Finish up weakness to triple bolt belay as for Faint Hearted or alternatively hand crack finish to Broken Window. Small cams helpful to protect crack to ledge.

The short flaring corner crack 20 m to the left (and slightly down) of The Rip. Better than it looks.

A strenuous off-width, in case you're into that sort of thing... At the same level as 'Another Roadside Attraction' and above 'Poultry in Motion', the obvious, leftwards leaning off-width. Place a high runner in the chimney, then up the outside into the off-width.

Start at the blunt arete left of the cave. Up this to a dirty crack.

The same pair of pants were worn by both leader and second on the first accent of this outstanding, if somewhat wide arching test piece. Start at the short fist crack behind the large fallen tree, up and then left into 15 metres of memorable off-width. Take the largest cams you own, a 4 adequately protects the start of the offwidth. Scramble off.

Follow the hand (jam) traverse to the arête then up the crack.

On the southern side of the road. Climb the easy crack and gully.

Miniature version of Hipster Billy's 'The Life Aquatic'. Squeeze chimney protected by hand crack, take #2 - #5 camalot and a finger sized one for the top out.

The overhanging hand/fist crack.

The body chimney with a chockstone, left of 'Armless'.

Further left. Up the corner through a roof to the layback crack. Traverse right to a small tree to finish.

The thin corner and arete right of 'French Connections' with a bolt.

The mirror image of TLA. Climb the easy crack in the chimney at the back of TLA boulder. Access via a scramble, or the descent from TLA.

As the name states. To get off, have to down-solo a chimney.

Excellent committing climbing. The shallow crack facing the track. Pre-placing a piece or two on rap would make the start saner. Phil called it 'The Jism' on aid; John shocked us all when it was freed.

Overhanging desperately thin finger crack. Paging Oli, Dave, Nick, and Andrew

The thin crack system on the boulder 50m north of Sabre.

The awkward leaning corner crack immediately right of the tourist track. Finish up slabby arete. Walk off.

Up the corner two metres right of 'Nothing Too Serious' - use the left wall, then the arete.

Start at twin cracks and into the corner.

Quality hand jams heading right up the line.

In the atrium behind the main climbs. Consider pre-placing your first piece of pro.

The obvious corner crack down and right from 'Milwaulkee Pig Iron' (at the same level and 10 metres left of 'My Generation') - it had repelled a number of attempts over the years. Finish up a slab to a bolt belay.

The short crack to the left with an awkward, undercut start about ten metres right.

A funky start and fun finish sandwich a doddling middle. The crack on the far side of the boulder. Up the rib and crack to the leftward diagonal break. Easily up cracks to a peg. Clip a bolt and up the arete to top.