Routen in Tidbinbilla area

A Canberra classic - the proud line diagonally up the front of the boulder as you approach on the walk in. Good positive holds, but still hard work! Note: this is a squat start - you start on the first set of good holds.

CMCC

Sit start at the spike (same start as Vendetta). Straight up via the corner/groove. Quite messy after it's rained.

Start up the hanging nose and continue up the arete past three bolts.

The aesthetic splitter on the uphill side of the spike. Thin hands. There is a rap anchor on top.

The second bolt is poorly placed so use an alpine draw to avoid edge clipping.

Sit start to the far right low down, then pull around the corner. Finish with higher traverse to jug. The warm up...

Powerful start, then technical on slopers, easy finish.

Around the side of the boulder from Bow You Bastards, start on good holds (past the gaston) and up.

The arete on the right hand side of the orange buttress past three bolts.

The start many people use when claiming 'Phone Sex'! From the scooped out area on the far side of the boulder as you walk in, start one block right on larger holds and then traverse out right to the jug for 1a/1b. Still has the hardest moves of 'Phone Sex', but the full sit is now doable as the start has been cleaned up. Requires less endurance than the full line.

The layback crack left of the native cherry on the left side of the gully. Up and diagonally left to finish (direct finish bolted but not climbed). Better than it looks.

The sustained thin corner right of Reptilian with two bolts at the finish (crux).

The crack system left of the orange streak, with a crucial wire slot a few metres up.

One of the more worthwhile climbs of its height in Canberra. The crack, with a sentry box at half height, a few metres left of 'Flying Arkwright'.

A popular 2 pitch slab. Start on the right hand side of the gully 25m downhill from French Connections and Heckmondwike Twist. A large burnt fallen log is a good reference point and a good seat for your belayer.

1. 15m (15, crux). Hard start up the flakey black slab, then more easily past 2 bolts. Gear belay.

2. 15m (14). Step onto the block and up the golden headwall (3 bolts). DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder.

28m rap from Fouled Up Turkey anchors back to the base.

Stand start at the big underclings, make a big move into the horizontal break and then traverse left to finish as for Tally Ho.

Up the nose of the lower left tier, just left of Puff Adder

Sit start at Tally Ho, then follow the break rightwards to the rounded arête, then mantle/rock over to the top. Progressively crimpier with thinner feet. Part of the crux footer has broken off, now a bit harder (Sept 2023). Chris Beers

Standing start to Spruce Moose - slap up the boulder. Burly. CMCC

Popular. Located around the corner from Skippy slab. Carefully walk across the slab to the DBB. Climb the delicate slab trending left past 2 bolts. Rap station as for Skippy Slab. Rebolted 2013.

Highly recommended, the classic of the crag. Start 10 metres right and down from 'Hey Jude', at the obvious rightwards corner crack. Layback up the corner and either step left to avoid the roof (18) or grunt straight through (20). Follow the cracks to the ledge, then up the unprotected slab above to a double carrot bolt belay.

Sit start problem through obvious basalt or similar intrusion on back of boulder and right of prow.

Sit start on rail, up through crimps. Apparently a hold has broken in the middle making this harder. Potentially V7 now?

One of the only warm ups at the slab area. Sit start and head up right on the ramp.

Per ex-Canberran Duncan Brown - the full sit to the Joker line. Tough for the grade, possibly V8.

On a small group of boulders 30 metres east (towards Corin Road) from 'Sentry Duty'. Nice jamming up the right angled corner crack on the downhill side. Lower off.

Popular beginner route. The slab past one bolt to rap anchor. Rebolted 2007 (approx).

Popular. Start a few metres right of SAAT. Up the dark slab to emerge through the hole. Optional cam. Belay off rap anchor.

Stand start at low blunt edge, then up slab tending slightly left, using the obvious scoop feature towards the top. Can sit start, at same grade.

The black corner on the left side of the top buttress with four bolts.

As per Contempt, but topout for Tally Ho.

The blunt arete and slab 5m right of My Name is Luka. Can take a small cam. Rap anchor. Bolt replaced 2009.

The slab and arete left of Nailbighter.

Stand start and up. Step across to the top of the main block or bridge between the two blocks to descend.

The popular slab a couple of metres right of V1 Special. Equipped with lower off. Rebolted 2006 (approx).

Start a couple of metres right of 'Spaghetti O's'. Hard moves off the ground following seam then crack. Continue past 2 bolts to lower offs.

A nice thin crack, undercut at the base. Don't worry at the wobbly starting block too much, and take RPs to protect the finish.

On the north side of the main outcrop. The rightwards trending crack which is undercut at the base and lays away left at the top. Camalots to #4 will make you happy if you're not a great fan of slinging chockstones. For the record, the arete right of this climb, with low chipped holds and one bolt is said to be a very old, abandoned Law-Smith project.

Stand start from arete in corner then climb up and top out (block on right is out).

Start from the scooped out area on the far side of the boulder on low slopers, hard start moves out right on crimps (You may need to clean the Blackberries as they are persistent). Many have started one block over for the sit-start, taking out the most strenuous moves of the climbs - see 'Phone Diddle'. Traverse out right and end on the jug for 1a/1b.

Up the face, in the alcove right of Beker. Some nice quartz edges. Sit or stand start (slightly to the right), at around same grade.

Sitstart the middle of face on jug. Up then trend rightward to mantle.

At the top of the smallish bloc, directly left (looking uphill) of the Animal Train bloc. Sit start with good holds, then straight up.

A powerful start then traverses left into slapsickle. It will leave you pumped.

Sit start on edges, climb face then top out.

Sit start on good low holds, then head up and right to finish out on easier terrain.

Sit start, and top out on the right.

Sit start on the large sidepull feature in the middle of the block, do a hard gaston move and top out straight up.

DYNO - Sit start on crimps and dyno to jug on the arete, then top out. Most of the challenge is in missing the pads on the swing.

Low sit start at the base of the flake. Left along the flake, then up via the scoop and arete.

Stand start at base of arete, climb arete and top out (this route is also the best decent).

Sit start from slot at base of corner, climb corner and top out.

Perfect hand crack.

A good route that should be on every Canberra beginner's hitlist. The start is located in the bowels of the earth. Scramble into the chimney just right of Roxely RIP. Climb the nice handcrack that widens until you emerge onto a sunny slab. Up past two bolts to Rap station. The 2nd edition of the granite guide mentioned a RHV past a bolt. This bolt is probably part of a finish to Midsummer Madness.

Stand start from arete in corner then climb up and top out.

The first crack you'll see when approaching from the downhill side. The best line at Pierce's Creek, classy climbing. The first 6m is easy but involves a pair of huge hollow flakes with questionable pro (be gentle). The business is the thin hand crack above on sound rock. Take plenty of red cams, and a few other assorted things. Blue and grey cams are best for the belay, but other options are available.

Popular slab. Start 2m right of 'Django the Bastard' below an undercling flake.

Sit start and up the arete.

Sit start from slot then climb up and top out. NOTE: seeps for at least a day after decent rain.

Bevan Ashby

Sit start with a hand on each of the good edges at the left side of the block, make a big move straight up and top out.

Stay away. The chimney/offwidth/layback.

Slabby arete immediately right of crystalline. Sit or stand start, at around same grade.

Stand start from base of flake. Climb flake and top out. Classic. One of the best at this grade in Canberra!

Sit start on the right side of the good flake, then up.

Sit start then climb up and top out.

Stand start and up, immediately right of the blunt arete.

Sit start at the arete. Up to side pull on the arete, then move left onto the slab and straight up.

Start as for 'Tiptoe'. Up the easy corner, then up a steeper one to a ledge. Walk along this to the right and then up the slab as for 'Scarborough Fair'.

Sit start on the right side of the plate, and up.

Sit start (as for #15) and up, finishing via a good rail high on the left. Excellent gymnastic moves on decent holds down low to a technical finish.

Still OK post fire - some of the flakes have blown off making it more reachy and some that remain are very creaky. Rebolted 2006 (approx)

Highball crack with little room to land. The problem is pretty easy, but hitting the pads wouldn't be (Take it as Grade19/20 trad)

Sit start from slot at base of corner, climb prow and top out.

Bevan Ashby

The slabby corner at the left hand end of the crag. A good beginner's lead.

Stand start matched on low rail then climb up and top out.

Bevan Ashby

Sitstart by slots underneath huge flake, up and mantle the corner.

The brushed slab right of 'Dear Prudence', with two bolts. Start on the large flake halfway up the wall.

Sit start down on the left arete then slap out to the right side of the prow then continue up with big compression moves up the prow.

Sustained unit right of Gooney Waltz. Start from the DBB. Head slightly right to the 1st BR then back left past 3 more. Rebolted 2007 (Approx).

Stand start and up slab. Thin start, then a diagonal line of good quartz edges.

Start as for Snake-in-the-Grass. Straight up the wall. Optional cam in break (#0.4-0.5 BD). Lower down Red Belly.

The crack just right of 'Blood for a Silver Dollar'. Step left at the top to use the same anchors.Take some smaller cams. No excuse if it's wet...

Sit start and up. The good but detached low footer is out.

The left hand route back onto the mainland. Start from DBB on top of the Knife Edge Boulder. Walk down the slab, preclip a bolt, and launch yourself onto the wall. Rebolted 2006 (approx). Tree anchor.

The gently overhanging finger and hand crack on the uphill side of the split boulder.

The left hand route at the crag. Start off the block underneath the wide crack. Bouldery off the deck into and up the wide crack, traverse right and up the corner. Tough for the grade.

Up the right side of the nose then arete, on bolts.

Alternatively, as for the first ascent - Up the corner to the right of the nose of SS (small cam / wires) to ledge (#7 nut / small cam). Up the right side of the arete past 2 bolts.

As for Snakes and Ladders, but from the anchor continue up the arete past two bolts to the top.

Straight up, in front of the tree between Beker RHV and Crystaline

Classic. Scene of many spectacular whippers. Start on a boulder below and to the left of Consumer Item. Traverse on flakes across the overhanging slab. Up the sustained crack.

Start as for Shlop, move right through some small edges, and make a big move up.