Eintrag |
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Bouddi National Park Wagstaffe - Mini Lobster Cave |
Benson's closed project
Start on the sloper undercling and move out and mantle. |
Central Coast
The area between the Hawkesbury River and Lake Macquarie. |
Palmdale
This area has an awesome boulder cave with potential for some rnice really hard lines on thin crimps. There is also a heap of bolted climbs on either side of the road. Some look quite hard. Mostly equiped with oversized glue in hex head bolts. |
Palmdale |
24
★ Thing Has No Name
Turn off the F3 freeway at Ourimbah, turn at roundabout and head north parallel to freeway till you can turn left and go under freeway following signs to Palmdale. Follow this road for a few km's till you see a sign for the logging road up the dirt hill (Middle Ridge Rd). Follow this steep poorly maintained road till you come to the obvious rock cutting. The climbs are on either side of the road. It may still be possible to access the location from the northern side along Yarramalong Rd via Red Hill Rd (turn at the Tree Tops turn-off). Follow this until you can turn left to continue along Middle Ridge Rd. |
Hells Kitchen
Turn off the F3 freeway at Ourimbah, turn at roundabout and head north parallel to freeway till you can turn left and go under freeway following signs to Palmdale. Follow this road for a few km's till you see a sign for the logging road up the dirt hill (Middle Ridge Rd). Follow this steep poorly maintained road till you come to the obvious rock cutting. The climbs are on either side of the road. It may still be possible to access the location from the northern side along Yarramalong Rd via Red Hill Rd (turn at the Tree Tops turn-off). Follow this until you can turn left to continue along Middle Ridge Rd. |
Palmdale Hells Kitchen |
V2
Moss Monster
Turn off the F3 freeway at Ourimbah, turn at roundabout and head north parallel to freeway till you can turn left and go under freeway following signs to Palmdale. Follow this road for a few km's till you see a sign for the logging road up the dirt hill (Middle Ridge Rd). Follow this steep poorly maintained road till you come to the obvious rock cutting. The climbs are on either side of the road. It may still be possible to access the location from the northern side along Yarramalong Rd via Red Hill Rd (turn at the Tree Tops turn-off). Follow this until you can turn left to continue along Middle Ridge Rd. |
The Entrance Baths
Seaside bouldering |
The Entrance Baths |
V3
★ Gosford Skirt
4 metres left of the iron spike, sit start near corner. Hands and feet must remain on top of roof, exiting right near the metal post. |
V3
★ Iron Rod
2m right of iron bollard is a large 2 handed pocket. Start with straight arm hang from here, feet up above the natural brown line - on steep ground only. Then it's one contrived move to glory. |
V1
★ Cloaca
5m right of GS, past cave, up cracked juggy bit, traverse right to nose, keeping feet high, off slab. |
V0
Haemarroidectomy
Up over nose. |
V0
★ Up the crack
Dirty corner-crack 2m right of H. |
V0
★ Windward Passage
Other crack 1m right of UTC. |
V2
★★ Ages Three and Over
Start as for 'Windward Passage', tending right along the black rock to top out directly above next crack. |
V3
★★ Annus Horribilis
5m left of sign post. Sit start with hands on nice big sloper. Straight up, taking care that little chicken heads don't break! |
V2
★ Perineal Tear
3m left of signpost, sit start to left of crack. Up onto slopers, left a metre then up. |
V0
★ The Rear Route
Up thin crack 3m left of sign post. |
V4
★ Wealth Gap
Standing start at the lowest jugs and power your way up to the crimp (or all the way to the top) |
Berrys Head
Somehow only recently developed boulders scattered around a hillside. Potential for quite a few classic moderates. |
Berrys Head |
The Anvil
The very large flat top boulder with a cave on one side and a tunnel right through. Kind of hard to miss. |
Berrys Head The Anvil |
V5
★★ Inside Out
Sit start at the base of the cave. Follow the left ledge, then drop down and around through the tunnel, finish at good jug at head height out right. |
V6
★★ Gossy Good Times
Start up the Inside Out ledge, but keep going all the way around the top side of the cave on the honeycomb rock and finish up B3. |
V6
★★ Gossy Ghetto
Sit start at the base of the cave. Out along the lip using the fallen boulder for feet to get started. Keep going around the corner then up and over the blunt nose. The bouldering version of Ghetto Superstar. |
Berrys Head |
Warm Up Boulder
A bit sandy but it brushes up quite well. |
Berrys Head Warm Up Boulder |
V2
Exfoliate
Start on two scoops on left. Head right on ledge (DON’T USE THE VERY LOOSE FLAKE ABOVE LEDGE IT WILL BREAK OFF) through pockets and up. |
V3
★★ Sand In My Pocket
Sit start at the foot ledge then head up and left a bit past the round pocket to OK topout |
V4
★★ Sandy Slap
Start as for SIMP, but head straight up |
Berrys Head |
Ironstone Cove
It might be a good idea for larger groups not to all park in the one spot. |
Berrys Head Ironstone Cove |
V5
★★★ Pay the Iron Price
Sit start matched on edge in back of cove. Head right on good holds to undercling, slap to arete and find the sneaky heel and toe hooks and head up. |
Berrys Head |
The Back Ally
It might be a good idea for larger groups not to all park in the one spot. |
Berrys Head The Back Ally |
V6
★★★ Slab of the Week
The obvious line with the big reach up from the sloper and sidepull. Possibly reachy, definitely a bit unique. |
V4
★★ Ground Hog Day
In the small overhang in front of "Slab of the week" sit start in the hole matched in the seam, make a move to the lip and traverse right a few moves. Then head up and mantle out. |
V1
★ Mantle piece
Start on scoopy undercling and mantle onto ledge then mantle again. |
Ground Hog Day (Direct)
Shared start as GHD, move directly to the lip, gain the side pull with the right and go slightly left and up. Using two slopey crimpers. (Open Proj) |
Berrys Head |
Missed Opportunity Block
A large stand alone block a fair way north of the previous areas |
Berrys Head Missed Opportunity Block |
V3
★ The alcove
Sit start at arete left of SC. Up into alcove then exit left. |
V2
Flaked
Onto Ground Flake just left of Alcove and straight up |
V2
★ Dishes
Up slab a metre right of Descent, through bulge and kindest top out of the boulder |
V0
★ Descent
The middle of the north face of the boulder with a rail and ledge at half height |
V1
The Well
Starts in the hollow formed by a couple of boulders right of Easy Arete passing a pinch. Don’t stray into Descent |
V1
★★ Easy arete
Low start on obvious jugs and straight up. |
V5
★★ Derailed
Start up Monorails, then traverse right for a few moves then up, Likely to see some Road Runner style footwork due to lack of feet! |
V4
★ Monorails
Get established on the underclings then up past the mono and rails to the top |
V1
★ Left Diagonal
Sit start at left rising diagonal at left end of east face |
V3
★ Slopers
The blunt arete down hill of easy arete. Start with right hand in 2 finger pocket and up to slippery top out |
V0
Double mantle
The south west arete right of STD |
V2
★ Second chance
Start at sloping ironstone rail and right hand side pull, up to jugs then mantle |
V3
★★ Seize the day
Start at obvious good crimp rail, straight up to a couple of crimps then tricky mantle on sloper. |
Berrys Head |
Ben's Backyard
The far northern end of the boulders. |
Berrys Head Ben's Backyard |
V5
★★★ A Berry Nice Piece Of Cake
Start on the low jug with a heel out left. Throw up to the slopey block and wrangle your way right around the blunt nose to some better holds then up. |
V3
★★ Cupcake
Sit start on the good hold then straight up. Only feet on the ramp out left. |
V4
A Berry Nice Piece Of Cake Low
Stay very low heading around the arete. Not sure if this is bum dragging rubbish or not too bad? |
V3
★★ Indi
The cluster of smaller free-standing boulders in front of ABNPOC. Sit start at the crack. Up then reach left to the arete and up. |
V2
You lichen
Sit start with hands down on far left of good break, up on some good edges then undercling head right to join the top of neighbouring problem |
V5/6
★★★ I Lichen
Same sit start as BNPOC but head straight up. Video: https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cz0YRlaPpY4/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igshid=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== |
Mossy forest
A great little crag tucked away in the mountains of Wyoming. Easy walking track in and only 15min walk from berrys head crag for a great little bouldering day out |
Mossy forest |
Camber bloc
a cool looking boulder with a slopey arete and slaby face |
Mossy forest Camber bloc |
V5
★★ Pessimistic
Sit start matched on the lowest sloping feature. Quite hard to get started on with poor feet. Climb the slopey arete up to gain the crimp on the centre of the face before throwing out to left arete, then up and over |
Mossy forest |
Playdoh bloc
Large boulder with a high slab on one side and cavelet on the other |
Mossy forest Playdoh bloc |
V3
★★ Honey im home
Sit start matched on sidepull inside the cavelet. Back wall of cave is out for feet after start. Move up and out to slopey pockets and across to right arete using fun heel hooks. Using right arete and thin incut slot, move directly up to undercling pocket then top out.. super fun line |
V3
★★ Devils tombstone
Start with left hand on arete and right hand down low on undercling edge. Move up to right hand sidepull pocket on the face and use good holds left in the break to gain the lip. Tricky mantle |
Mossy forest |
The bunker
Mini shallow cave with a awesome flat top |
Mossy forest The bunker |
V4
★★ Rock 'N' roll-over
Sit start with left hand out wide on pinch and right on thin undercling. Feet must be on the wall NOT on flat rock. Move up to right pinch then using the incut edges on lip to gain the flat lip. Traverse left on lip to the centre of the cave(crackline) then rock over mantle. |
Mossy forest |
little pride rock
Mini pride rock that features a big buldge nose |
Mossy forest little pride rock |
V5
★★ Simba moyo
Sit start with left hand on jug and right on big sidepull, move out right to incut edge on lip, use left sidepull and bump up right through a couple holds on lip to gain the nose. Use the left and right sides of the buldge to push upto mantle. hard top out |
Open proj
Start on slopers on the lip above the right side of the cavelet. Trevers the lip using slopers and pinch to get into the start of simba moyo then finish as this problem. Floor of cave is out for feet. Probably goes around v7- v8 |
Mossy forest |
The centrepiece
An amazing looking boulder with good rock quality but fragile in some parts |
Mossy forest The centrepiece |
★★ Open proj
Stand start on 2 edges in the seem line. Move out left through the bowl into the flake and large left sidepull hueco. Then up through the jugs before big dyno move out left to good edge before the lip, then top out. |
Toms closed proj
We are climbing on darkinjung land. Make sure you are respectful and take your rubbish with you |
Mossy forest |
slab lane
a stretch of slabs With plenty of first ascent opportunity, some sections are high balls. Bring a brush and get setting. |
Mossy forest slab lane |
Section A
We are climbing on darkinjung land. Make sure you are respectful and take your rubbish with you |
Section B
We are climbing on darkinjung land. Make sure you are respectful and take your rubbish with you |
Mossy forest |
Wave boulder
Boulder shaped like a wave, steep and slopey |
Mossy forest Wave boulder |
Open project
Start on the left slopey edge and side pull, big move upto good jugs then super hard top out on sloping lip |
Open project 1
Start matched on thin edge, move up to slopey slot then out right to flat crimp then top out over slopey lip |
Forresters Beach
Seaside bouldering. |
Forresters Beach |
White Tower environs
Half way to the main area is a towering white boulder. Smattering of boulders just to the north |
Forresters Beach White Tower environs |
V0
Him Him Him
Sit under left hand ironstone plug and pull on |
V0
Me Me Me
Sit at right ironstone feature and pull on |
V1
Just a Friend
Start low on vertical flutings |
V2
Partners in Crime
Sit at pocket on right, up and traverse left to arete to mantle. Good but undercut foot rail. |
V2
★ Both Ways
Sit under arete then up ironstone rib staying on steep side until the top of arete is reached |
Forresters Beach |
V4
★★ If you like pina coladas
Sitstart. |
V2
★★ Getting caught in the rain
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V2
★★ If you’re not into yoga
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V4
★★ Half brained yogi
Start sitting on jug rail and Traverse right with big move into half brain. |
V6
★★ And you have half a brain
Low start matched on jug under boulder, up trending right through small eye and the larger eye above under the lip. Nice V4 when done as a stand start. Video https://www.instagram.com/p/CaEY9L4JaOw/ |
V1
★★ If you like making love at midnight
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V0 - 1
★★ You're the lady I've looked for
Cool semi-highball that starts low on the far right side of the bloc. Make your way straight up and slightly left using juggy ledges and then top out. |
V1
In the dunes on the cape
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/ |
V7
★★★ Nobody`s Poet
Shared start with Write to me and escape but move out right after the drop down move, topping out in the middle of the face. Bring lots of pads to cover the death pit below the topout. |
V6
★★★ Write to me and escape
Crag classic. Start far under cave on two jugs facing the direction of climbing. Fun short V4 when done as a sit start from below the arete. Video https://www.instagram.com/p/CaEY9L4JaOw/ |
V4
★★ Wash my health food down with champagne
Classic bouldering on slopers and edges, top outs are sandy pre prepare!!! |
V2
★★ I'm not much into health food
Start on pocket and sloper. Reachy with an awkward topout. |
V3
★★ I am into champagne
Start just under boulder on two jugs facing out. Topout sketchy - jump off instead. |
★★★ Medicinal Joints and champagne extension
From deep in the cave you can link up on horizontal roof climbing into "I'm into champagne" |
V2
★ The Gingerbread Man
Start matched on nice big undercling under the lip, then pop up to ledge. Traverse the lip out left staying low and then top out using huge victory jug. |
V2
★ Bump n Grind
Start as for "The Gingerbread Man" but pop out slighty right before making your way straight up through slopers (cool double bump sequence) and then topping out using huge scoop out the left. Vault the final scoop as you top out for some extra fun! |
The next two boulders are located approximately 100m before the main boulders up on the left side as
The next two boulders are located approximately 100m before the main boulders up on the left side as you walk in. |
V3
★★ Staring At The Sea
Sit Start all the way down on the right side arete and traverse left to join Staring At The Sea Direct. |