Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Northern Rivers Urbenville Battery Hill | |||||
16 | ★ Don't Trust the Bunny
6m R of Yellow Brick Road. Up R of the rock orchards, through two steep sections on good holds. Thin, sustained climbing to clip 4 then easier to the top. 7 FHs to chains. Erstbegehung: Ross Miller & Richard Callf, 2006 | 24m, 7 | |||
16 | ★ Carbon Black
4m L of flake. Up the R-leaning weakness past 3 FHs to a stance - quite run out between clips 2 & 3. Step L (FH) and up steep section (FH) to easy climbing (FH) to chains. Rebolted in 2011 by SCQ. The route is a waterfall after rain. | 23m, 6 | |||
16 | ★ Ohm Sweet Ohm
A line of 5 FH's to the R of Itchy. Thin moves to 2nd FH and continue over bulge on good holds. Erstbegehung: Julie Stanton, Colin Carstens & Joanna Parker, 2006 | 16m, 5 | |||
Northern Rivers Urbenville The Crown | |||||
16 | ★ Wasted Days and Wasted Nights LHV
Erstbegehung: Peter Schmidt & James Fisher, 1996 | 20m, 2 | |||
16 | Streak
10m R. Apparently the streak up the vague L-facing corner has been done without bolts. Meander up to tree belay.. | 15m | |||
Northern Rivers Urbenville Vesuvius | |||||
16 | ★ Pliny The Younger
As above, but split off left at the 8th FH up onto ledge for anchors. Belay from big ledge in canyon. 9 FH’s. Erste freie Begeh.: John O'Brien & Nathan McNeil, 2014 | 25m, 9 | |||
Northern Rivers Old Lismore Quarry | |||||
16 | ★★ Stem Awhile
| 12m | |||
Northern Rivers gesperrt Island Quarry | |||||
16 | way
| 15m | |||
Northern Rivers Byron Lowtide Boulders Life bouy rocks | |||||
V0 | ★ Lifebouy Strip
Sit start on jugs and continue upwards and top out Erstbegehung: Ben Send | ||||
V0 | Jugs ahoy
Sit start on obvious jugs and traverse left past cave like indent and top out Erstbegehung: Ben Send | ||||
V0 | Did somebody say dyno
Start on jug under small cave and dyno to top jug rail Erstbegehung: Ben Send | ||||
Northern Rivers Surf Rock | |||||
16 | outsiders
start inbetween EJ & CL. up slab wall over the nose Erstbegehung: Za Utopia, 2013 | 12m | |||
16 | ★★ sea side style
start 2m right of razor fingers. up wall 2m then traverse left across RF on small ledge then straight up. Erstbegehung: 2012 | 13m | |||
V0 | ★★ Fisherman's cast arête
The boulder is found another 50m on from the last rope climb. Local fisherman's spot. This was the first line climbed here, and the best. Beautiful laybacking with a heel hook up the right arête. The line is from a stand start but a sit start has also been done, maybe at a V1 but adds no value. Finish on the top of the boulder with a nice mantle. Erstbegehung: Taliesin St. john, 7 Jul 2021 | 4m | |||
Northern Rivers Lighthouse beach | |||||
V0 | ★ A5
Layaway right crack to jug and hand jam. | ||||
V0 | A8
Juggy slab with wide pinch. | ||||
V0 | ★ Left traverse
Using all the good holds and traverse left at the horizontal break Erstbegehung: Gopal Thorburn | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Direct right
Move rightwards and up around the blunt arrest | 3m | |||
V0 | C1
| ||||
V0 | ★ C7
Up juggy arete avoiding both left and right blocks. High and narrow landing. | ||||
V0 | ★ D3
In corner, up past fin. | ||||
V0 | D5
Juggy arete | ||||
V0 | D7
Cracks up face | ||||
V0 | ★ D8
Jugs up arete. | ||||
V0 | J2
Avoid climbing over ledge on left! | ||||
V0 | J3
Jam crack to jugs at top. | ||||
V0 | J17
Often has dirty top out! | ||||
V0 | J21
| ||||
Northern Rivers Joggly point cave | |||||
V0 | ★ Cold Feet
| ||||
V0 | Sea Legs
| ||||
Northern Rivers Turners beach | |||||
V0 | Deserve the view
Start on the crimpy ledge on the left of the western face. Straight up | 3m | |||
Northern Rivers Woodford Island See Sea Wall | |||||
16 | Next Level
Step off block, up on edges to jug on hanging flake and step onto ledge at anchors. | 8m | |||
16 | Hung Over Drover
| 8m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Dusk Wall | |||||
16 | Othila
Middle of wall . Start above blackboy climb up to base of tree. Tree anchor Erste freie Begeh.: Za Utopia & Be Utopia, 28 Mär 2016 | 9m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Twilight Zone | |||||
16 | ★ 35 Degrees
Up short corner and wall through overlap and up to anchors. | 15m, 5 | |||
16 | ★ Breaking Dawn
Up through Rooflet to anchor. | 10m, 3 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Wild Dog | |||||
16 | Stoned
The second obvious crack to the right of 'Monkey Boots'. Crack to tree then Cnr crack to top. Beware loose rocks. Natural Pro and Belay. Erste freie Begeh.: Bruce Jones, 1996 | 15m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Lama Land | |||||
16 | ★★ President Obama Lama
Tough opening sequence leading to the same, fun upper section. Erstbegehung: Brian Cork, Aug 2016 | 8m, 5 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Strong Room | |||||
16 | ★ Hilti Hijackers
Good fun. Great warm up. Can take a medium cam between the 2nd and 3rd bolt to reduce the runout. Erstbegehung: Jeff Gracie & Tim Hill, 1996 | 15m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Goodvibes Wall | |||||
16 | ★ Stealth Mode
About 2m right of Corkys Crack. Up the wall past 2 bolts and then through the rooflet on trad gear. Anchor bolts at the lip. A little bit spicy. Erstbegehung: Brian Cork & Toby Holmes, 2012 | 15m, 2 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox Pooh Wall | |||||
16 | Christopher Robbin: Toy Boy
Left most climb on Pooh Wall. 2 bolts to rings. Erstbegehung: Paul Daniel & Tristan Ricketts, 2001 | 12m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ Pale Pooh Streak
15m right of ET. Up the big pale streak at the large tree. Up line of bolts to 2 large fixed hangers. | 12m | |||
16 | ★ The Enchanted Place
2m right of the pale streak. 2 bolts to chains. This climb is purposely run out, so take some natural pro for the breaks if that worries you. Erstbegehung: Tristan Ricketts & Paul Daniel, 2001 | 12m, 3 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fort Knox The Motherlode | |||||
16 | Rabid
Natural crack split through blank slab to double ring belay Erstbegehung: David Wagland, 2009 | 12m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo Hero Wall | |||||
16 | ★ Release The Hounds
The Obvious trad corner crack in centre of wall. Up to ledge and anchors above FSA Erste freie Begeh.: Brian Cork, 2011 | 12m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Waihoo 354 | |||||
16 | ★★ Camo Corner
Start on low step below large tree on set back ledge. On ledge three options to climb with the crack in the middle that takes two large cams (a #4 is handy). Easier line on the left. | ||||
16 | ★★ Rat Attack
Start up Chimney to ledge, then up beautiful corner crack to roof and traverse right under roof to anchors. | 17m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Fun Parlour | |||||
16 | ★ Son Of A Beach
A funky looking crack left of the big overhang (ROOM WITH A VIEW), up crack and swing round small roof to your left, then to top. Erstbegehung: A. Stephens, L. Dixon & G Stewart, 1987 | 8m | |||
16 | ★ Wasp
The next crack right of PLANET EARTH. A flared crack in a steep wall, hard jamming to top. Erstbegehung: L. Dixon & M. Spence, 1988 | 8m | |||
16 | Giblets
A crack with a cave near the top. The first rack right of CHICKEN HEROES. Hard start then easier climbing to top. Erstbegehung: L. Dixon, A. Stephens & R. Thomas, 1986 | 8m | |||
16 | ★ Hot Tap
The right hand corner of the "Shower Recess" Short but much harder than it looks. Sustained. Erstbegehung: L. Dixon R. Thomas & A. Stephens, 1986 | 8m | |||
16 | ★ Sandman
The next corner right of AND THE COOKED. A corner with a jam crack near the top, bridging, layaways and jams, it's got it all. Erstbegehung: A. Stephens, W. (Image man) Fairly, R. Falls & L. Dixon, 1987 | 8m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Sherwood Buttress | |||||
16 | ★ Tink Tink
Farthest left bolted climb on cliff. 1 BR and medium wires. Natural belay Erstbegehung: Danny Rose | 8m, 1 | |||
16 | ★ Love And Marriage
2m right of the left arete of the open book corner. Vere left above overhang. Finish left of tree. Natural Pro, tree belay. Erstbegehung: Danny Rose | 8m | |||
16 | ★ Annulment
Flakes and edges 2m left of "what crack" Erstbegehung: Toby Holmes | 8m | |||
16 | ★★ Sally The Race Car Driver
2m crack on west face Erstbegehung: M. Kelly | 8m | |||
16 | ★★ Mango Jam | 12m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Kremnos Boulder | |||||
V0 | Cecil
SDS as per Scarlet Manuka but traverse R onto ramp. | 4m | |||
V0 | Iron Paw
SDS, face to R of arete. | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Blowboy boulder | |||||
V0 | ★ Blowboy
Short and easy | 4m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Impossible Wall | |||||
V0 | Rangi
Slab in centre of face, left of chimney | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones The Fortress | |||||
V0 | ★ Dolores
Highball face left of crack | 6m | |||
V0 | ★ Jess
Highball corner crack/slab | 5m | |||
V0 | ★ The Cry of the Grey Ghost
Highball crack | ||||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones The Alcove | |||||
V0 | ★ Slabba Dabba Doo
Short, slabby face | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Shaggy
Prominent crack left of tree | 4m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones High Ball Wall | |||||
V0 | ★★★ One Eye and the Optometrist
Highball face, excellent climbing Erste freie Begeh.: Artie Schultz, 2013 | 7m | |||
V0 R | ★★ Jug Rattler
Highball face, marginal R rating due to big rock in landing zone and possibly loose jug at 2/3 height Erste freie Begeh.: Artie Schultz, 2013 | 7m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Orange Wall | |||||
V0 | ★ Sugar
Featured grey face left of tree | 6m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Jam and Cream Wall | |||||
V0 | ★★ Jam and Cream
Face 1 m right of arete | 4m | |||
V0 | ★★ Charred Remains
Featured face 1m right of tree. Erstbegehung: Tara Everson, 3 Sep 2017 | 5m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Oreo | |||||
V0 | ★ Left Oreo
Lefthand side of juggy face to ledge | 3m | |||
V0 | ★★ Oreo
Centre of juggy face to ledge | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Oreo Traverse
Traverse the prominent rail | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Super Cruise
Highball arete right of the Oreo | 5m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones South Park | |||||
V0 | Your Father Smelt of Elderberries
Right side of roof. | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ I Fart In Your General Direction.
Short, easy wall between the grass trees at the top of the little hill. | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Electric Donkey Bottom Biter
Another fun, easy kiddy route. | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Wombling Free
Easy wall left of crack. | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ The Wombles of Wimbledon
Easy wall right of crack. | 2m | |||
V0 | ★★ Flight of the Finches
Easy, juggy wall to the right of the roof. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ BuG
SDS at far right arete. trend slightly R, then L and stick to LH face at rooflet. Erschliesser: Keiron Sames, 10 Apr 2022 Erstbegehung: Lila Sames, 10 Apr 2022 | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones The Smoulder Boulders | |||||
V0 | ★ Snootch
Start left of the tree | 2m | |||
V0 | ★★ Cooch
Face left of arete | 3m | |||
V0 | Horse
RH arete | 3m | |||
V0 | Pew
| 3m | |||
V0 | Prince Charles
Face R of tree | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Aussie Mateship Boulder | |||||
V0 | ★ C'mon Mate
SDS Horizontal flake to jug | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Aussie Mateship
SDS Vertical flake to jug | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Onya Mate
SDS Huge arete/flake. Up the flake and then traverse the rail right across the boulder. | 6m | |||
V0 | Yeah Mate
Arete | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Jugville Boulder | |||||
V0 | ★★ Horn Dog
SDS to large, prominent horn feature. There are many variations of this problem. | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Jugville Central
Loads of V0 variations | 2m | |||
V0 | around the jug
Couple of variants from a start on the arete, moving right onto south face then up leaning crack ramp in middle or keep moving R to next arete and up. Erstbegehung: Keiron Sames, 8 Mai 2022 | 2m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Pocket Boulder | |||||
V0 | Vert Fin
SDS. layback vert rail jugs. Erstbegehung: Keiron Sames, 8 Mai 2022 | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Thread Boulder | |||||
V0 | Thread
The southern side of the boulder with the cool thread. Don't break it. | 3m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh The Scones Far North | |||||
V0 | Left wall
Up the wall left of the little roof | 4m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Grab the Gristle Area | |||||
16 | ★ Eat The Meat
Climb arete and wall past 2 bolts and trad gear to a tree belay. Erstbegehung: G. Dean & G. Gilchrist, 1993 | 10m, 2 | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Silk 'n' Steel Wall | |||||
16 | ★ King Aurther
Climb the right hand crack to chain. Large cams. The second route climbed at Wonderland. CAUTION(!!!): The tree at the top of 'Bartman' and 'King Aurther' has become uprooted and has fallen down towards the ground obscuring the top section of both climbs and their chain. Erstbegehung: G. Dean & K. Bennett, 1991 | 15m | |||
Mid North Coast Coffs Harbour Glenreagh Wonderland Whipping wall | |||||
16 | Getting Up
The crack 1m right of 'Confessions of a Window Cleaner'. Erstbegehung: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1991 |