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Übersicht

West-facing highball slabs and other problems.

Beschreibung

A 4-5m slabby crag with lots of scary, technical problems on friction and pockets. Definitely a winter crag, as it faces due west and gets sun all day except for very early morning. A must do is the super classic highball 'The Owl'.

Some gritty rock needs to be brushed, but there's a nice green lawn at the base unlike the burnt photos. Climbs described from right to left.

Einschränk.

Heath Trail is heavily used by mountain bikers.

Zustieg

Park at the locked gate at the end of Ralston Ave, Belrose. Go 200m along the dirt road to a right turn at an isolated house. Continue with the house on the left and comms tower on the right, until another locked gate signposted Heath Trail. Head right down Heath Trail for 200m until a watercourse and another gate. Trend right at possible cairn about 30m to the crag.

Ethik übernommen von North Shore

Respecting the enviroment and keeping crags clean will maintain a healthy and important relationship between the climbing community, local councils and National Parks. Carry out what you take in and enjoy what the North Shore has to offer.

If you come across an area that is being developed or you think could be under development, please show all due respect to the developers and do not climb the projects listed on thecrag.com.

Geschichte

Grafik zur historischen Entwicklung

Quite possibly John Smart could have climbed here with others. The exact details are unknown though. Neil Wallace walked passed this crag in about 1995-1996 and thought that maybe some bouldering could be done. He was looking for a Sissy Crag though and Belrose didn't quite fit the description. It took almost ten years before he returned to claim the prize. Scott Cambell had some how got wind of it and the two of them went to work. Matt Wrigley also made a little appearance, seriously damaging his coccyx when Ben Barin dropped him while we were climbing in the rain! Several years after this phase, the crag was rediscovered by Al Choie, Brad Le, Martin Brown and Steve Tai. The most significant ascent being the stupendous, 'The Fracture'. So named after it had claimed Martin Browns ankle.

Tags

Routen

Route(n) hinzufügen Topo hinzufügen Neu sortieren Stapelbearbeitung Konvert. Grade
Schwierigkeitsgrad Route

Climb the high slabby wall through the pockets onto the scary blank slab at the top. One of the 'to do' problems at Belrose if you are into high, technical and scary slabs.

Slab.

Easy slab.

Start in the gully (kind of weird start). Climb the shallow corner on good holds.

The undercut wall to the arete via a slopey ledge. Hard moves onto and up the arete. Seen a lot of attempts.

3m to the left of the arete. Up the groove. Nice.

Start low in the break, go to the slot/edge and up over the bulge to the top. A very good boulder. Tyrone Clements Will Schubert

Useful for descending.

The is the must do problem of Belrose. High, scary and beautiful. Climb up the pockets and then negotiate the slab section at the top. Easier at the top for the tall.

On the arete on the left of this wall is a juggy, kind of eliminate line that follows the arete. It's kind of awkward.

A couple metres left of the corner crack is a ledge with two pockets above it. Stand on the ledge and use the pockets and the very small, crozzly edges above. Move right to a very shallow, pockety break. Go up. Harder now the edges have broken a little.

Left of the last problem is an obvious curved seam/crack/line of edges. Use the low break and pockets to gain this feature. A very good problem.

Warnung Flora & Fauna: Brown snake seen in large low break.

Use the low break to gain the big hole in the middle of the wall. us this to get to some quite slopey holds and rock on. There is a diagonal incut to help you at the end. Feels hard but once you work it out it's pretty good fun.

Starting next to the tree. Use the good holds and pockets to some slopey edges near the top.

To the left of the tree is a very similar problem to the previous one. Be more careful at the top as the rock may be a little fragile.

Start at a thin slot. Climb to a shallow pocket in the horizontal seam. Stay right of the vertical seam at the top. Tenuous but fun.

Climb up the middle of the slab. This time using a pocket and staying left of the seam at the top.

The left side of this slab. Harder than it looks but really good. Finishes abit left at the top.

Start in the big, pockety breaks beneath a right facing corner/seam. Use this feature to move up left on slopey edges. Slab on up to the top. This is an excellent problem.

The corner above a ledge. Not great but you might like it.

Just to the right of a big block is a seam/overlap. Climb this. Technical and balance reliant. Powerful. Be careful of the block and pointy tree. This is an excellent problem.

After the big block is a recessed arete. This is fun and recommend finishing to the right.

Climb the arete on the left, using the break. Slopey at the top. Alternatively move onto the break and finish going straight up from this.

At the end of the high break are some black streaks and left of these are some small slopey edges. Use these and some good looking but hard to use foot holds to get to the pocket at the left side of the break. Go straight up not using the rest of the break. Easier for the tall.

The slanting crack, using edges at the top. Highish. Can be dirt and have things growing in it if it has be untouched for a while. Pretty good when clean if you like this sort of thing.

Climb the black layaways up the orange scoop. Undercling the top of the scoop and go right to big holds. Trend right keeping it together at the top. A good overhang.

Behind the overhang is a small block. It has a short flake you may want to do.

In the middle of the overhang, behind the tree there is some big juggy holds.

Narrow featured wall just around to the left of the overhang from a stand start.

The slab at the end of this overhanging wall.

The slab using the arete. Nice.

Up the slab then dyno over to the hidden jug.

Up the slab then dyno to the higher hidden sidepull

Up the slab then monster dyno to the peak of the boulder.

Climb the arete on the left. The rock is a little crumbly but is ok at the top.

The blunt overhanging arete, using sidepulls. Hard moves at the top.

The overlaps under the yellow streak and rooflet. Not as good as you would hope but fun anyway.

The big sidepull/seam thing.

Starting LH mono pinch and RH crimp, try find the good hold up and a little right. Mantle far over left at good jug. Rock is kinda sus but it's still probs the best line in the world...

Erstbegehung: Roman Rosen

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