Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lighthouse Track Wall | |||||
22 | Inverted Fuzzy Pumper
2m left of H. Desperate start to lip (manky BR), delicate wall past 2 BRs to ledge. Bulges, right to overhang and up. Erstbegehung: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1982 | 15m | |||
13 | ★ Hackitt
Obvious cliff splitting crack. Trench warfare to start, then pleasantly up the crack to the cave. Step left over roof (take care with loose rock) and up pleasant headwall. Well protected. Erstbegehung: Craig D. Martin, 1982 | 15m | |||
19 | ★ Breakslaps
Start: Middle of wall 5m right of IFP.
Erstbegehung: Craig B. Martin & Roy Chick, 1984 | 20m, 2 | |||
15 | Possum Taunter
7m right of B below crack 5m up. Up crack to the "possum cave", step right and up short offwidth. Erstbegehung: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1982 | 15m | |||
15 | ★★ And Then the Fun Starts
Incorrectly marked "PT". 20m right of PT at twin cracks. Steeply out of alcove and up twin cracks. Thought provoking crux over roof to lovely headwall. Take small to mid size cams. Erstbegehung: Roy Chick & Ian Strut, 1984 | 20m | |||
Customs House Rocks | |||||
M1 | A
Up the manky old bolt ladder. | 15m | |||
16 R | Remaining Shame
No protection after the ledge. Start: At crack right of old bold route opposite iron post in rock. Erstbegehung: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1982 | 20m | |||
12 | Thresher's Flail
Up chimney to stance, then up staircase in chimney. Start: Squeeze chimney left of RS. Erstbegehung: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1982 | 18m | |||
15 | Pugnatious Puke
Good jams and protection. Start: Crack in middle of wall opposite banksia across track right of TF. Erstbegehung: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1982 | 14m | |||
12 | Oedipus Complex
Up crack into cave, over lip, up arete. Start: Right of PP. Erstbegehung: Craig D. Martin, 1982 | 10m | |||
9 | Cockroach Crack
Start on ledge right of OC. Straight up the line.An excellent introduction to climbing. Erstbegehung: Martin Jones, A. Montgomery & Craig B. Martin, 1982 | 8m | |||
12 | Septic Enigma
Offwidth right of CC | 4m | |||
12 | Half Pipe
Ramp right of SE. | 4m | |||
Southwest | |||||
14 | Evil Spuds
The overhang. | 6m | |||
12 | Gollum's Grope
The offwidth. | 4m | |||
7 | Pyroclean
The chimney. | 4m | |||
22 | Zodiac's Pure Vegetables
10m right of Haircut. Up the wall and seam. Erstbegehung: Craig D. Martin, 1984 | 8m | |||
13 | Haircut
The offwidth. | 4m | |||
13 | Solipsism
The arete. | 4m | |||
12 | Manteau
The wall. | 4m | |||
9 | Speleolie
The crack. | 4m | |||
9 | Feetus Position
The offwidth. | 4m | |||
5 | Exit Tortons
3m right of Albatross, below chimney. Used as a descent route Erstbegehung: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 13m | |||
14 | Albatross
5m right of FF. Traverse left to join FF. No pro (soloed on FA). Erstbegehung: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1983 | 15m | |||
17 | Frog's Fling
1m right of K9. Up to traverse line then head right to arete (thread runner on tree?). Up hanging slab. Looks unprotected and probably harder than 17 Erstbegehung: Craig B. Martin & Martin Jones, 1982 | 13m | |||
17 | K9
2m right of R. Up the flaring finger crack. Quite a bit easier if you use the back wall for a chimney. (Maybe a 14?) You can set up a top rope using a 3m and a 6m sling around two different bolders above (+ ~ 6m of connector tape). There is a very rusty bolt that I wouldn't trust. Erstbegehung: T. Martin & Martin Jones, 1982 | 13m | |||
11 | Ratbite
The obvious corner 2m right of WG. Erstbegehung: Craig B. Martin, T. Martin, B. Strahan & Martin Jones, 1983 | 18m | |||
20 | ★★ Cranky
A prominent rounded boulder sits atop the rock platform above and 15m to the right of PWCB. The climb is marked. Atmospheric. Good moves up steep, sandy pockets. 2 RBs to double RB lower off. Erstbegehung: Peter Barnard & Russ Davis, 1988 | 7m | |||
25 | A (Open project)
The ridiculously steep groove on the boulder up in the trees to the west (behind and left) of Cranky. There are two toprope bolts but they are 20yo expansion bolts (inappropriate in sandstone) and should not be trusted. Erschliesser: Greg Andrews, 1996 | 8m | |||
21 | ★ Wild Gravity
Start: 2.5 m right of TMMDF below thin flake Up thin flake to break (BR), then up wall above (2 BRs) to ledge. Continue up PWCB, or carefully walk off to the right. Erstbegehung: Craig B. Martin & Craig D. Martin, 1983 | 12m, 3 | |||
22 | Tchaikovsky Makes My Dog Fart
1.5m right of PWCB. Hard moves (BR) up to and past break (cams), then as for PWCB. Erstbegehung: Mike Law & Craig B. Martin, 1985 | 7m | |||
16 | ★ Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket
Start at short flake right of where the track meets the base of the huge block. Up flake (good cam in pocket on right) to ledge. Up the lovely sustained slab above (3 good BRs). Double RB belay / rap anchor. Traversing left at the top only scores you a 14! Protection: Cams: BD #1 (red), BD #.5 (purple) Carrots: 3 Anchors: Good ledge with ring bolts plus shackles. Erstbegehung: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1983 | 20m, 3 | |||
10 | ★ Millie
Up wall (cams in breaks), between J and PWCB. Start: 2m right of 'Jezebel' | 11m | |||
9 | ★ Jezebel
On top of elevated block, in front of the vertical crack. An excellent route for beginners. Step across onto the wall and right to BR. Head straight up the wall (small cam and BR) to rounded top out. Double RB belay / rap station. | 11m, 2 | |||
13 | ★ Two Steps Forward
As for J. Step onto wall and follow crack (micro cams) until it finishes. Up wall past BR to belay as for J Erstbegehung: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1982 | 20m, 1 | |||
14 | ★ Carrie Bradshaw
Start: 2m left of Two Steps Forward. Start with your back to the tree. Straight up past 3 BRs, then small cams (0.4 and 0.75/1 Camalot) in breaks to a Double BB. Erstbegehung: Niall Doherty, 2003 | 12m, 3 | |||
14 | ★ Starboard Barnacles
Marked. 2m left of CB (just left of tree). Pleasantly sustained. 3 BRs and optional cam near top. Double BB belay. Erstbegehung: Johan Verhagen & Dave Stuckey, 1984 | 20m | |||
14 R | ★ Elf Town
Marked. 2m left of SB. BR, runout to break (cam) then up over bulge (BR) to BB and RB belay Erstbegehung: Johan Verhagen & Dave Stuckey, 1984 | 20m | |||
14 | ★ Judgement Day
2m left of ET. Fingery to crack, up, then corner / chimney. Belay as for ET. Erstbegehung: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 20m | |||
18 | ★★ Enterprise
2m left of JD. 4 BRs and cams up excellent, sustained, steep wall. Double BB belay. Erstbegehung: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1983 | 25m | |||
17 | ★ Enterprise Variant
As for Enterprise Follow flake on right at top. Erstbegehung: Craig D. Martin & Craig B.Martin, 1983 | 15m, 4 | |||
15 | ★★ Crack of Dawn
2m left of E. Up the thrutchy bum crack, then either up the well protected headwall (BR), or pleasantly left up groove to top (BR on left protects top out). Double RB belay. Protection: Cams: BD #.4, #.5, #.75 x 2, #1, #2, 1 carrot Anchors: ring bolts with shackles Erstbegehung: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 20m | |||
19 | ★ Arachibutyrophobia
(The fear of peanut butter sticking to the roof of your mouth). Start: 1m left of 'Crack of Dawn' Straight up past BR, staying left of CoD. From ledge head up left face of groove, between arete and crack (BR shared with CoD). Belay as for CoD. Erstbegehung: Peter Ward, 1986 | 20m, 2 | |||
18 | ★★ Liquid Insanity
A classic steep slab-climb. Start: 1m left of 'Arachibutyrophobia' Great climbing! Crux to start (BR), then sustained climbing (BR) to ledge (cams recommended here). Continue up pleasant headwall (2 BRs) to belay as for CoD. Erstbegehung: Glenn Robbins | 20m, 4 | |||
18 | ★★ Marsupial Smearer
Start: 1m left of 'Liquid Insanity'. Steep wall past 2 BRs to ledge, then crack / corner to break. Step right to double RB belay, or (recommended) finish directly over block (BR to double BB belay). Erstbegehung: Captain Black | 20m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For Piker's Variant
Up ISHFWILF then step right to flake on MS and finish as for that route. | 18m, 5 | |||
20 | ★ I Still Haven't Found What I'm Looking For
Start: Marked 'ISF' 2m left of 'Marsupial Smearer'. Stay left of MS the entire way, with crux over high bulges (2 BRs), staying out of the crack on MS. | 22m | |||
14 | ★ Domino
Corner crack 2m left of ISHFWILF Past chockstones, getting harder with height. Erstbegehung: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 20m | |||
15 | Tropico
Marked "AT". 2m left of D. Up right side of arete, passing 2 BRs up higher. Either belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station (as for CO). | 20m | |||
17 R | Cramp Ons
Start below wall, 2m left of T. Undercut, crimpy and slightly sandy start (will clean up with more ascents). The first placement is a little high - get a spot from your belayer. Cams in breaks, BR on top section. Either trad belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station. Erstbegehung: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 20m | |||
16 | ★ Wild Ride
Marked. 2m left of CO. Bouldery start past BR, then more easily up wall (cams and BR). Grade 14 and no stars if you traverse in from HO Protection: - 2 carrots - Cams: BD #3, #1, #.75, #.4, #.3 Anchors: Continue up the diagonal crack in the block on top of the main wall, ring bolts on the top. | 18m | |||
9 | ★ Hang Over
Crack 1m left of WR. Up crack in recess, very pleasant over the bulge, then chimney. Triple BB belay (shared with WtT). Erstbegehung: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 12m | |||
17 | ★★ Womb To Tomb
1m left of HO below bulge. Hard move off ground (more like 22!), then up over roof on jugs and up slab. Triple BB belay (shared with HO). Erstbegehung: Craig B. Martin & Martin Jones, 1982 | 12m | |||
15 | ★★ Cosmic Ecology
2m left of WTT, below nasty looking overhanging crack. Looks awful but is surprisingly good. Hard move off ground then easily up and left around roof and up slab. Double BB belay. Erstbegehung: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 12m | |||
Midden
A protected aboriginal midden. STAY OFF! | |||||
15 | Cosmic Ecology Variant Start
Please do not climb this route as it is above a sensitive aboriginal midden. 1m left of CE. Up to join CE. Erstbegehung: Craig D. Martin | 5m | |||
17 | ★ Lurgi Meets Plate Tectonics
Please do not climb this route as it is above a sensitive aboriginal midden. A contrived sit-start. A bit loose (eeeeyakabo!). Start as for 'Cosmic Ecology Variant. Traverse left then strenuously up to ledge. Continue up slab to double BB Erstbegehung: Craig B. Martin, 1983 | 12m | |||
22 | Ways Of Our Lives
Please do not climb this route as it is above a sensitive aboriginal midden. Marked. 2m left of CEVS at seam. Looks harder than 22! Desperate start, then tend right (BR) and continue up wall (small cams) to belay as for LMPT. Erstbegehung: Mike Meyers & David Hains, 1984 | 15m | |||
20 | Squid Vicious
Please do not climb this route as it is above a sensitive aboriginal midden. As for WOOL. Looks harder than 20! Desperate start to BR, then up past breaks (cams). Originally an aid route ("Maximum Bowel Potential"). Erstbegehung: Mike Meyers & M. Toakley, 1983 | 12m | |||
14 | Computer Sox
3m left of SV. Up wall past ledges (take 3 mid size cams) to double BB belay. Erstbegehung: Craig D. Martin & Martin Jones, 1982 | 7m | |||
10 | Cythaul Haul
Crack left of CS. | 12m | |||
14 | Hemholtz Tunglebung's Stupidity
A queer fish if ever there was one. Start: 2m left of CH crack Up wall (small cams and BR) to double BB belay. Descend using the double RB rap station on the wall a few metres above the belay. | 6m, 1 | |||
12 | Sacrilege
The off-width boulder problem. | 4m | |||
19 | The Phantom Bolter Strikes Again
Start below arete, 1m left of S. Up headwall (2 BRs) to awful top out. Used to be grade 17 until the flake near the top fell off (in the mid 90s). Double BB belay. | 10m | |||
19 | ★ Benign
4m left of tPBSA. Slab past 3 BRs to steep finish. Double BB belay. Erstbegehung: Craig B. Martin & Roy Chick, 1984 | 10m | |||
16 | ★ Benign Variant Finish
As for B, but finish up the sloping crack left of the final BR with an awkward overhanging mantle to finish. | 10m | |||
10 | ★ Mike's Cop-out
Up arête, poxy ladder - rock & pro gets better with height. One good move at the top. Belay off 'Benign' BBs. Start: at bottom of arête R of BTDT. | 8m | |||
7 | Been There, Done That
Chimney left of B. Erstbegehung: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 10m | |||
19 | ★★ Central Pillar of Mordor
Narrow arete / wall between BTDT and O. Good sustained climbing past 3 BRs to double RB lower off. Mid size cam recommended between 1st and 2nd BRs. Slow to dry after rain. | 20m, 3 | |||
11 | ★ Orgasmic
Chimney left of CPoM. Up (slung chockstone, wires, friends) to double RB lower off on CPoM. Erstbegehung: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 25m | |||
18 | ★ Sand Syringe
3m left of O. Blast straight up wall past cam breaks. Take care in the upper section (pro is restricted to slinging the flake, plus a micro-cam placement). Double BB belay. Rap off double RB rap station on block above the climb. Erstbegehung: Craig B. Martin & N. Moran, 1984 | 20m | |||
19 | ★★ Not Your Average Cab Sav
2m left of SS. Good, sustained, thin climbing up a balancy wall. Cams and 3 BRs to double BB belay. Erstbegehung: Craig B. Martin & Roy Chick, 1984 | 20m | |||
14 | ★★ Pledge a Legend
1m left of NYACS, below obvious crack in centre of wall. Steeply up crack to traverse line. Step left (crux) then follow crack up to headwall slab (BR). Double BB belay. Protection: - 1 carrot - Cams: BD #.3 (doubles), #.5 (doubles), #2 Anchors: 2 carrots (too close to the edge) 2 trees about 2 meters back from edge Erstbegehung: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 16m | |||
18 | ★ Borcat Blues
2m left of PAL. Thin start (BR), then up wall past breaks and BR to belay as for PAL. Erstbegehung: Craig B. Martin & Roy Chick, 1984 | 20m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ Tangerine Dream
2m left of BB. Up wall past breaks and BR on top section. Double BB belay.Quite thin and exposed. Erstbegehung: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 15m | |||
18 | ★ Cobwebs
2m left of TD. Up webby crack and continue up wall (cams in breaks, BR) to belay as for TD Erstbegehung: Peter Ward & Trevor Carlos, 1986 | 15m | |||
10 | Celluloid Heroes
8m left of C. Up arete to belay as for C. Despite what the previous guide says, protection is adequate.A good beginner's climb, but imagination is required when placing protection. Erstbegehung: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 10m | |||
7 | Nightingale
Start: The easy chimney left of CH. A quick ascent or decent route. Erstbegehung: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 10m | |||
16 | ★ Pox Travels Fast
Just left of N. Up wall (2 BRs), then large cam (#3.5 camalot) in pocket on left, or run it out on easy ground to double BB. Erstbegehung: Craig B. Martin & Craig D. Martin | 15m | |||
15 | ★ Pinnacle of Peril
Arete left of PTF. Straight up exposed and unprotected arete Erstbegehung: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team | 22m | |||
21 | ★ Super Exciting Xylophone
Start: 2m left of PP. Delicately up middle of blank wall to break; mantel to pass overhang. Undercling up spectacular, airy pinnacle (15) with protection from Friends and threaded slings. Beware the chalked horn of rock used at the end of the overhang is part of a loose block that moves! Triple BB belay on top (one BB is manky however). | 25m | |||
9 | Intoxicating Liquor
Left of SEX. Up crack then up chimney above that. Erstbegehung: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 20m | |||
19 | ★ Little Plaything
1m left of IL. Thin, bouldery start, then up wall to arete and up slab (cams). Double BB belay. Was originally graded 14, but by all accounts the start is pretty hard. | 16m | |||
18 | Anti Scuttler
Very shallow corner left of LP. A sandbag at grade 8 (must have been a typo)! Tricky start, then good steep slab above. Belay as for LP. Erstbegehung: Martin Jones & Craig B. Martin, 1982 | 20m | |||
23 | ★ Sweatheart
Just left of AS. Stays on the vertical wall between the AS slab and the offwidth of F. DBB Up past the natural thread. Crumbly flakes to small crimps and a steep finish up and left. It was named Sweatheart because it was done on one a crazily humid day. Erstbegehung: Mike Garben & Garry Pienaar, 2003 Erste freie Begeh.: Ziggy Samways, 23 Jul 2017 | 12m, 4 | |||
15 | ★ Facet
Left of AS. Up offwidth and over bulge to belay as for SH. Erstbegehung: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 16m | |||
8 | Crack 'n' Up
Another wriggler! Start: Off-width 2m left of 'Facet'. Erstbegehung: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 17m | |||
19 | ★★ Mescalito
For the following routes, descend by either rapping off the double RBs above Abseil Wall, or by walking down 10m left of Ikon. 2m left of CnU. Thin start up crack then trend right and up stylish arete. 2 BRs and cams to double BB belay. Protection: - 2 carrots - Cams: BD #.1 (marginal), #.3 (doubles), #2 Anchors: Ring bolts on top with nice view. | 12m | |||
16 | ★ Mode
2m left of M. 3 BRs to double RB belay which is 80cm back from the edge. Erstbegehung: Warwick Williams & Kevin Melville, 2003 | 14m, 3 | |||
16 | ★ Abseil Wall
2m left of M at seam. Wall and Crack trend left, though do not go further left, rather stay straight. Sparse pro. takes three cams and a nut. Double RB belay which is 1m back from the edge. Erstbegehung: Northern Beaches Cliff Training Team, 1975 | 18m | |||
16 | ★ Pan Pacific Wall
4m left of AW. Straight up wall (cams and BR). Double RB belay. Fun; good protection. | 16m | |||
19 | ★★ Long Line of Leanings
Just left of PPW, on right side of chossy cave. Deliberately contrived start: do it. Up arete to lip of roof. Traverse left past RB then crank straight up past BRs and cams. Belay as for PPW. Erstbegehung: Craig B. Martin & Mike Law, 1985 | 15m | |||
22 | ★★ Wrong Line of Learning
Start in left side of LLoL cave. Stick clip first RB on LLoL, long reach to jug on lip, then up staying a bit left of LLoL joining it on half way ledge. Erstbegehung: Mike Garben/Garry Pienaar, 2003 | 15m, 2 | |||
25 | ★★ Pulse of Fools
5m left of LLL. Sustained, thin and steep climbing up good looking orange wall. 3 RBs to double BB belay. Erstbegehung: Mike Law, 1985 | 12m, 3 | |||
26 | ★★ Davy Jones' Lockoff
2m left of POF. Old Skool power endurance crimping with a very hard crux at two thirds height, then yet more crimping to the top. CLOSED PROJECT Erstbegehung: Ziggy Samways, 2021 | 15m, 4 | |||
10 | Suer
Corner crack left of PoF | 6m | |||
13 | Krill
The off-width boulder problem left of S. | 6m | |||
19 | ★ Ikon Direct
Where Ikon should have gone. Start: As for Ikon, middle of black slab, left of K. Straight up past 2 BRs and RB. Double BB belay. Erstbegehung: Craig B. Martin & Roy Chick, 1984 | 10m | |||
17 | ★ Ikon
As for ID. Silly. Up to BR, left to arete, up and right to RB, back left to arete then up. Erstbegehung: Craig B. Martin & Roy Chick, 1984 | 10m | |||
11 | Ray's Moppy
Marked M, 10m left of I. Up slab 1m right of arete, then crack and slab to top. Small to medium cams with a tree belay. Erstbegehung: Ray Haak & John Shaw, 2005 | 10m |