Einträge in Northern Beaches

The Northern Beaches of Sydney include the suburbs of Manly, Pittwater and Wakehurst.

A selection of crags, including one very popular crag (Southwest) located on the Barrenjoey Peninsula. Quite an extensive area, with good rock and a good selection of easy and middle grade (and generally slabby) routes.

Lighthouse track wall is on a flat section of the signposted four-wheel-drive track leading to the lighthouse, about 200m up the hill.

2m left of H.

Desperate start to lip (manky BR), delicate wall past 2 BRs to ledge. Bulges, right to overhang and up.

Obvious cliff splitting crack.

Trench warfare to start, then pleasantly up the crack to the cave. Step left over roof (take care with loose rock) and up pleasant headwall. Well protected.

Start: Middle of wall 5m right of IFP.

1. 20m (19) Up wall to small breaks for friends. BB and friends in cave.

2. 7m (19) (Crux) Clip BRs on right side floor of cave and place friends in roof flake. Out to BR on lip and slap up to BB and Bushes.

7m right of B below crack 5m up.

Up crack to the "possum cave", step right and up short offwidth.

Incorrectly marked "PT". 20m right of PT at twin cracks.

Steeply out of alcove and up twin cracks. Thought provoking crux over roof to lovely headwall. Take small to mid size cams.

A leafy and uncrowded little crag that is probably marginally cooler in summer than Southwest Barrenjoey. Worth a look in if you're feeling intrepid.

Up the manky old bolt ladder.

No protection after the ledge.

Start: At crack right of old bold route opposite iron post in rock.

Up chimney to stance, then up staircase in chimney.

Start: Squeeze chimney left of RS.

Good jams and protection.

Start: Crack in middle of wall opposite banksia across track right of TF.

Up crack into cave, over lip, up arete.

Start: Right of PP.

Start on ledge right of OC.

Straight up the line.An excellent introduction to climbing.

Offwidth right of CC

Ramp right of SE.

Seaside sandstone cragging, with a good selection of moderate carrot bolted 'mixed' climbs.

Routes are ordered from Right to Left. The trail meets the cliff about 20m R of 'Crack of Dawn'.

The overhang.

The offwidth.

The chimney.

10m right of Haircut.

Up the wall and seam.

The following five "routes" are all solo boulder problems, located quite close together.

The offwidth.

The arete.

The wall.

The crack.

The offwidth.

3m right of Albatross, below chimney. Used as a descent route

5m right of FF.

Traverse left to join FF. No pro (soloed on FA).

1m right of K9.

Up to traverse line then head right to arete (thread runner on tree?). Up hanging slab. Looks unprotected and probably harder than 17

2m right of R.

Up the flaring finger crack.

Quite a bit easier if you use the back wall for a chimney. (Maybe a 14?)

You can set up a top rope using a 3m and a 6m sling around two different bolders above (+ ~ 6m of connector tape). There is a very rusty bolt that I wouldn't trust.

The obvious corner 2m right of WG.

The next two routes are on boulders on the top cliff line about 15m to right of PWCB.

A prominent rounded boulder sits atop the rock platform above and 15m to the right of PWCB. The climb is marked.

Atmospheric. Good moves up steep, sandy pockets. 2 RBs to double RB lower off.

The ridiculously steep groove on the boulder up in the trees to the west (behind and left) of Cranky. There are two toprope bolts but they are 20yo expansion bolts (inappropriate in sandstone) and should not be trusted.

Back to ground level

Start: 2.5 m right of TMMDF below thin flake

Up thin flake to break (BR), then up wall above (2 BRs) to ledge. Continue up PWCB, or carefully walk off to the right.

1.5m right of PWCB.

Hard moves (BR) up to and past break (cams), then as for PWCB.

Start at short flake right of where the track meets the base of the huge block.

Up flake (good cam in pocket on right) to ledge. Up the lovely sustained slab above (3 good BRs). Double RB belay / rap anchor. Traversing left at the top only scores you a 14!

Protection:

Cams: BD #1 (red), BD #.5 (purple)

Carrots: 3

Anchors: Good ledge with ring bolts plus shackles.

Up wall (cams in breaks), between J and PWCB.

Start: 2m right of 'Jezebel'

On top of elevated block, in front of the vertical crack. An excellent route for beginners.

Step across onto the wall and right to BR. Head straight up the wall (small cam and BR) to rounded top out. Double RB belay / rap station.

As for J.

Step onto wall and follow crack (micro cams) until it finishes. Up wall past BR to belay as for J

Start: 2m left of Two Steps Forward. Start with your back to the tree. Straight up past 3 BRs, then small cams (0.4 and 0.75/1 Camalot) in breaks to a Double BB.

Marked. 2m left of CB (just left of tree).

Pleasantly sustained. 3 BRs and optional cam near top. Double BB belay.

Marked. 2m left of SB. BR, runout to break (cam) then up over bulge (BR) to BB and RB belay

2m left of ET.

Fingery to crack, up, then corner / chimney. Belay as for ET.

2m left of JD.

4 BRs and cams up excellent, sustained, steep wall. Double BB belay.

As for Enterprise

Follow flake on right at top.

2m left of E.

Up the thrutchy bum crack, then either up the well protected headwall (BR), or pleasantly left up groove to top (BR on left protects top out). Double RB belay.

Protection: Cams: BD #.4, #.5, #.75 x 2, #1, #2, 1 carrot

Anchors: ring bolts with shackles

The access track reaches the cliff here.

(The fear of peanut butter sticking to the roof of your mouth).

Start: 1m left of 'Crack of Dawn'

Straight up past BR, staying left of CoD. From ledge head up left face of groove, between arete and crack (BR shared with CoD). Belay as for CoD.

A classic steep slab-climb.

Start: 1m left of 'Arachibutyrophobia'

Great climbing! Crux to start (BR), then sustained climbing (BR) to ledge (cams recommended here). Continue up pleasant headwall (2 BRs) to belay as for CoD.

Start: 1m left of 'Liquid Insanity'. Steep wall past 2 BRs to ledge, then crack / corner to break. Step right to double RB belay, or (recommended) finish directly over block (BR to double BB belay).

Up ISHFWILF then step right to flake on MS and finish as for that route.

Start: Marked 'ISF' 2m left of 'Marsupial Smearer'. Stay left of MS the entire way, with crux over high bulges (2 BRs), staying out of the crack on MS.

Corner crack 2m left of ISHFWILF

Past chockstones, getting harder with height.

Marked "AT". 2m left of D.

Up right side of arete, passing 2 BRs up higher. Either belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station (as for CO).

Start below wall, 2m left of T.

Undercut, crimpy and slightly sandy start (will clean up with more ascents). The first placement is a little high - get a spot from your belayer. Cams in breaks, BR on top section. Either trad belay at recessed ledge, or (recommended) continue up the triangular block (cams) to double RB belay/rap station.

Marked. 2m left of CO.

Bouldery start past BR, then more easily up wall (cams and BR). Grade 14 and no stars if you traverse in from HO

Protection: - 2 carrots - Cams: BD #3, #1, #.75, #.4, #.3

Anchors: Continue up the diagonal crack in the block on top of the main wall, ring bolts on the top.

Crack 1m left of WR.

Up crack in recess, very pleasant over the bulge, then chimney. Triple BB belay (shared with WtT).

1m left of HO below bulge.

Hard move off ground (more like 22!), then up over roof on jugs and up slab. Triple BB belay (shared with HO).

2m left of WTT, below nasty looking overhanging crack.

Looks awful but is surprisingly good. Hard move off ground then easily up and left around roof and up slab. Double BB belay.

A protected aboriginal midden. STAY OFF!

Please do not climb this route as it is above a sensitive aboriginal midden.

1m left of CE. Up to join CE.

Please do not climb this route as it is above a sensitive aboriginal midden.

A contrived sit-start. A bit loose (eeeeyakabo!). Start as for 'Cosmic Ecology Variant. Traverse left then strenuously up to ledge. Continue up slab to double BB

Please do not climb this route as it is above a sensitive aboriginal midden.

Marked. 2m left of CEVS at seam.

Looks harder than 22! Desperate start, then tend right (BR) and continue up wall (small cams) to belay as for LMPT.

Please do not climb this route as it is above a sensitive aboriginal midden.

As for WOOL. Looks harder than 20! Desperate start to BR, then up past breaks (cams). Originally an aid route ("Maximum Bowel Potential").

3m left of SV.

Up wall past ledges (take 3 mid size cams) to double BB belay.

Crack left of CS.

A queer fish if ever there was one.

Start: 2m left of CH crack Up wall (small cams and BR) to double BB belay. Descend using the double RB rap station on the wall a few metres above the belay.

The off-width boulder problem.

Start below arete, 1m left of S.

Up headwall (2 BRs) to awful top out. Used to be grade 17 until the flake near the top fell off (in the mid 90s). Double BB belay.

4m left of tPBSA.

Slab past 3 BRs to steep finish. Double BB belay.

As for B, but finish up the sloping crack left of the final BR with an awkward overhanging mantle to finish.

Up arête, poxy ladder - rock & pro gets better with height. One good move at the top. Belay off 'Benign' BBs.

Start: at bottom of arête R of BTDT.

Chimney left of B.

Narrow arete / wall between BTDT and O. Good sustained climbing past 3 BRs to double RB lower off. Mid size cam recommended between 1st and 2nd BRs. Slow to dry after rain.

Chimney left of CPoM. Up (slung chockstone, wires, friends) to double RB lower off on CPoM.

3m left of O.

Blast straight up wall past cam breaks. Take care in the upper section (pro is restricted to slinging the flake, plus a micro-cam placement). Double BB belay. Rap off double RB rap station on block above the climb.

2m left of SS.

Good, sustained, thin climbing up a balancy wall. Cams and 3 BRs to double BB belay.

1m left of NYACS, below obvious crack in centre of wall.

Steeply up crack to traverse line. Step left (crux) then follow crack up to headwall slab (BR). Double BB belay.

Protection: - 1 carrot - Cams: BD #.3 (doubles), #.5 (doubles), #2

Anchors: 2 carrots (too close to the edge) 2 trees about 2 meters back from edge

2m left of PAL.

Thin start (BR), then up wall past breaks and BR to belay as for PAL.

2m left of BB.

Up wall past breaks and BR on top section. Double BB belay.Quite thin and exposed.

2m left of TD.

Up webby crack and continue up wall (cams in breaks, BR) to belay as for TD

8m left of C.

Up arete to belay as for C. Despite what the previous guide says, protection is adequate.A good beginner's climb, but imagination is required when placing protection.

Start: The easy chimney left of CH.

A quick ascent or decent route.

Just left of N.

Up wall (2 BRs), then large cam (#3.5 camalot) in pocket on left, or run it out on easy ground to double BB.

Arete left of PTF.

Straight up exposed and unprotected arete

Start: 2m left of PP.

Delicately up middle of blank wall to break; mantel to pass overhang. Undercling up spectacular, airy pinnacle (15) with protection from Friends and threaded slings. Beware the chalked horn of rock used at the end of the overhang is part of a loose block that moves! Triple BB belay on top (one BB is manky however).

Left of SEX.

Up crack then up chimney above that.

1m left of IL.

Thin, bouldery start, then up wall to arete and up slab (cams). Double BB belay. Was originally graded 14, but by all accounts the start is pretty hard.

Very shallow corner left of LP.

A sandbag at grade 8 (must have been a typo)! Tricky start, then good steep slab above. Belay as for LP.

Just left of AS.

Stays on the vertical wall between the AS slab and the offwidth of F. DBB

Up past the natural thread.

Crumbly flakes to small crimps and a steep finish up and left.

It was named Sweatheart because it was done on one a crazily humid day.

Left of AS.

Up offwidth and over bulge to belay as for SH.

Another wriggler!

Start: Off-width 2m left of 'Facet'.

For the following routes, descend by either rapping off the double RBs above Abseil Wall, or by walking down 10m left of Ikon.

2m left of CnU.

Thin start up crack then trend right and up stylish arete. 2 BRs and cams to double BB belay.

Protection: - 2 carrots - Cams: BD #.1 (marginal), #.3 (doubles), #2 Anchors: Ring bolts on top with nice view.

2m left of M.

3 BRs to double RB belay which is 80cm back from the edge.

2m left of M at seam.

Wall and Crack trend left, though do not go further left, rather stay straight. Sparse pro. takes three cams and a nut. Double RB belay which is 1m back from the edge.