Routen in New Nowra - Braidwood Road für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Best rock at the crag. Lovely marbled pockets up subtle prow. Starts a few metres right of I Cairn Do It on right side of arete at undercut cave. The start move goes via a sneaky move from the block on the right. Bonus crux at the top through the rooflet.

Update 2021: several hundred kgs of rock have fallen out of the bottom of the cliff, including the starting holds. The rock at the start of this route isn't really rock just sand and not possible to climb on. The rightward trending flake feature. Start as for 'Long Dong Silver'. After tackling the initial roof head right along the flake and on to jugs and anchors.

Update 2021: several hundred kgs of rock have fallen out of the bottom of the cliff, including the starting holds. The rock at the start of this route isn't really rock just sand and not possible to climb on. Punchy right facing flake in the center of the pocketed wall. Stick clip first bolt, steep start through roof then follow the line of bolts left and up.

Classic of the genre! The most popular route in the cave, and very powerful! 4th line of rings from the left hand arete. 'Steep' start to large square pebble then straight up.

The last route in the area, easily up the striking black arête to around half way where balance and movement is required to get your way to the DBB up high.

Start two meters left of Coffee Powered Shit Box. Exceptionally fine climbing up a sparse black wall. Any discomfort you feel on the holds is a result of having too much wanking activity turning your fingers soft. All vicious thin holds have been treated to take the bite out of them so enjoy the excursion. A great set of jugs in the middle takes the heat off this number. Up the short vertical rut section and push out to the left to gain jugs in the lower middle of the wall. Up to offset flake and then move left to follow bolts to the top.

Thin and balancy climbing just left of arête. Start on the crack and move right to a big move after the 3rd bolt then awesome climbing to the top.

Start 3m left of the obvious crack. Climb to the ledge, then the technical slab and then steeper ground to join the crack to anchors of Crack, Back n Sack.

Takes the obvious seam on orange rock under the large roof.

Starts at the little flake line near the left end of the orange wall capped by a large roof. Second to clean.

The arete. Stick clip the first bolt, then power through the bouldery start to easier climbing in a nice position.

Climb start for 'High Roller' clipping first 4 bolts, take a 3-4m run out traverse to the left to clip bolt just above roof on 'Crash Test Dummies'. Continuing to traverse the juggy roof merging up to anchor of '3D Disco'.

Great quality rock, with some amazing pockets down low. The right line of bolts off the permalegde, sharing the first couple of bolts with Crash Test Dummies. Might be grade 25.

Really steep climbing on excellent rock - once you get past the first few metres. Either sketch up the brittle start or batman up to first bolt (add a star if you do this!). Hard move at first bolt involving slopers and a tricky highstep layback section. Up juggy flakes to mega roof - out this on mostly big holds and finish up killer headwall. Extended runners to avoid rope drag. Cleaning this route involves either a willing second or a combo or re-threading and back-jumping.

Split personalities. Technical slab climbing then outrageous endurance roof climbing. Starts in the middle of Monty's Cave below right facing corner and small tree stump. Up to shale band, then tricky pull into corner. Traverse rightwards across technical slab (grade 22) to right side of massive steepness. Power through initial bulge on pockets (some real, one fake) then left and out through series of rooflets all the way to the lip of the massive cave. Crank the lip and up hidden headwall above to lone U-bolt. Back jump roue to clean. Long slings on all bolts reduces rope drag considerably. Be a little careful with the honeycomb flake at the lip of the cave.

Start at the tiny alcove 6m right of the left end of the grey wall. Up the steep flake system, using the staples at the start to keep your feet dry and trying to avoid the seep. Some awsome barndoor moves to gain the upper flake then steep wall to anchors.

The best rock at the The Gold Mine? Up the left hand side of the wall on small perfect little holds. Thin, sustained and techo!

One of the best looking lines at the crag, and a great climb! The overhung buttress on right edge of Fernville, with prominent pockets in the middle. Stick-clip first bolt.

Route 15m right of other. Very high stickclip. Fingery climbing finishing half way up wall.

Borderline 25 if you don't camp in the slot for days on end. The second half is nearly as hard as the first so keep the pump happening.

Start: Two meters right of BMUSDS.

Hard start on great rock to break under the buldge. Muscle up, and finish up BBT

Start: Directly under the arete.

Stay left. Maximizes the quality rock on this wall with a big girdle across the quality pocketed white rock. Follows the left line of bolts under the roof for a couple of metres, then over powerful rooflet and keep traversing left to final magic pockets to break and lower-off. Back clean or get someone to 2nd it.

The best route here - a New 'Nowra' classic. Pockets of every variety from start to finish. Goes all the way to the top of the cliff. This is the middle line, which has a slight leftwards traverse once over the first rooflet.

Very unique for sandstone and quite sustained. Lots of great holds - the top half is French limestone like solution pockets, all facing downwards! Bouldery start over the undercut, then up the orange rock on flaky pockets to horizontal. Left and up into the perfect pockets with some incredible undercling moves to gain the steep juggy orange jugs to finish out right. Suffers from heavy seepage on one hold near the top of the route.

Awesome powerful climbing. Undercut start to steep hanging pocketed arete to arrive under roof. Swing right with difficulty to jug and rap chain.

Starts on far right side of wall. Jam across horizontal then diagonally leftwards (some chossy sections of rock) to finish up sweet shallow heucos. Top half is gorgeous rock quality.

Climb start of filthy off width for two bolts then traverse left into Where Am I. Can be best to climb Dream Trader first and travrse right at anchor to Where Am I anchor and rap down to see moves.

A chance to combine technique and power without really trying to hard. Second and third clip can feel awkwardly far right on first go yet seemingly perfect second go.

Long sustained pumper! With around 4 crux sections. Looses a star due to some questionable rock but only adds to the excitement. Should be 3 stars!

The best route here - pity it doesn't go all the way to the top of the cliff. Beautiful marbled pockets up the centre of the wall finishing under first roof. Lots of great sequences.

Start just left of the undercut arete. Heave onto the wall then thin balancy face climbing into the scooped groove and on to the anchors.

The left climb on the orange wall. Bouldery and Fun!

Originally done on the old bolts alone, with a few rope stretching falls. Rings added later by Hill who dismally failed at trying to repeat the route. Name courtesy of Ben Ten.

Start: Under orange wall that leads up into the cave with two rings for lower off. Shares the first 2 bolts with CC, then steps across left to gain pockets and bouldery moves. 5th bolt is tricky to clip with a great move up to cave.

Fantastic sustained climbing. Shared start (marked) with PP, up and traverse right and continue up steep wall.

The conglomerate seam running thru the start may put you off, but you only use it for two holds. Hard bit is low down where you want all hard bits to be with the rest a jug haul. Soft for the grade!!!! Truely!

Start: Just right of BF a little to the left of the main line of bolts. Can be started direct if you need to add half a grade.

Clip the first bolt of 'Bear Droppings' and instead of starting from the ledge, lower down and start on obvious pockets off the ground by the tree about 6 metres down and right. Adds a fun 12-ish move boulder directly in the the start crux of 'Bear Droppings', making this feel substantially harder. The original route is quite height dependent so this could be 24 if you are quite tall and 26 if you are quite short, either way it is a fun route and feels about the same difficulty as 'Bullens Route' for an average height person like me.

Start up the arete on the right hand side of the wall. delicately dance your way up the thin face, then follow the crack to glory

Start on the right side of the wall below the diagonal crack of Not Sure. Up wall, slapping up those Arapiles like bums with little edges at the back. When the going really gets tough pike out towards the crack on the left then up NS and continue through roof and on to anchors.

One of the best routes at Tianjara and a classic for the grade! Sustained climbing on bulletproof orange sandstone! Closest climb on the right of chimney, follow ring bolts which replace old hangers. Shared start then trend right at Y split.

This bum covered arete is a classic. Steadily overhanging throughout its entire length its lucky this one has no small holds on it. Over bolted to the max. Several sequences of grade 19 with a crux or two of 21 thrown in at opportune moments.

Start: At Bullens route. First bolt defies belief.

The obvious overhanging, leaning crack. An inspiring line and a classic trad test piece.

1. 20m, 25 - Climb the crack to belay at the break or lower off, double bolt belay/chain.

2. 12m, 10 - Traverse right to corner and follow to top.

The right hand of the two routes on the impressive orange wall. Climb Rise of the Feret until you can step out of the corner and onto the line of glue-in rings heading up the wall. Thin, sustained and cryptic. Recently rebolted by Glenn Jones.

Recently rebolted the left hand of the two bolted routes on this wall. Amazing climbing through perfect edges to get you nice and high. Super classic and well worth the walk.

Excellent wall climbing straight up the face right of the major corner. Slabby start, tough move through small bulge in the middle then punch out the short roof to top of cliff jugs.

Slightly overhung face just left of major corner crack. Sustained edges and pockets. 25? There is a direct finish, and an easier right version bolted.

Action packed steep arête 8m left of The Regular Route. Start off ledge (bolt belay) trending left on conglomerate band to instant exposed arete perched above void. Up technical arete on small shallow pockets and reachy jugs. Pumpy right until the very last move.