Begehungen in Main Wall - Lust sector

Might have climbed this on the one day per year when it was actually dry. NICE!

After getting over my doubt of the calcite for the first 2-3 bolts I got trucking along.

This does climb really well in the end. Pretty happy to get on this finally.

Went slightly left at the second bolt before traversing right to the third bolt. A fun jam exists and a nice lay back to the chains.

Saw some punter pre-place some cams and claim the red point, ethics have gotten weak soft while I've been recovering from my injuries

Really cool, got a bit scared on the ground up attempt but dialled it in next shot. Burly boulder with a spicy exit high above your last piece

Oh wow! I got Greedy today First go after the warm up. Finally good weather conditions, after working it in the heat and baking sun for weeks.

Absolutely stunning route. Lots of techie sections linked together, where you can fall at any point, with a stopper move final dyno to the glory jug. Whilst a few people have ticked this route pretty quickly, I ended up spending about 15-20 sessions on it, so it was at my limit, so it felt pretty good to clip the chains today.

I did get to the chains, but I spent so much time on the rope that I think even hang dog is generous. Got an okay sequence though, might go on a good day (or after a bit more stamina development).

This is a lot of fun, and I got much higher on my first go than I expected. That crux will take some time to learn properly though... Felt more complicated than most of my summit projects, but less endurance needed.

Completely unexpected send! The plan was to work on Greed but 1. it was in the sun, 2. after coming g off Envy at the top I had to give it one more go. So good! Oh, and it’s my second second ascent.

Stoked to get the tick, unexpected but very welcome

Yeaaooooooooooo! Finally got the send. Feels awesome to get this route as its soo fun.

Just focused on control, breathing steady and efficient use of the many rests. Felt fresh at the final roof. The headwall felt so nice using the pinch to properly stand up and gain the feet.

Does feel like it took a few too many sessions falling off at the headwall, however I did do them quite spaced out and had covid for at least one of them.

Very messy first burn today. Forgot my beta after the first good knee bar and at the final roof. Was sloppy. Did manage to find a really nice pinch at the top to help gain the headwall.

Also potentially spotted the culprit rock/blade for cutting ropes. In the final roof, there is a bolt above and below. The lower bolt has a long downward facing blade like feature slightly up and right (I use it as a footer in a stem at some point). On this blade is a hand size section really close to the bolt where the rope can run underneath. If a climber were to fall (at any point with the next draw clipped) while the rope was running underneath, the tension put on the rope can cause it aggressively rub over this bladed edge. I am certain that this explains what happened to the rope on my previous outing. Could potentially extend the last two draws before the headwall if worried about this or be very mindful and ensure the rope doesnt get caught underneath while climbing past it.

Always great! One of my smoothest runs on it today!

Came up to the same move in better shape, more rested and relaxed. It felt like it would go for a moment before my arms turned to jelly. Damn, next time!

On lower, I noticed my rope had sustained a pretty large tear in the sheath. Talking to my friends, it appears like it had to have happened on this burn however it just seems so strange to have happened on my rather small fall from the 2nd to last bolt. Rope must have been running funky through one of the roofs when it went into tension.

Fell at the 2nd last bolt, just gaining the head wall. Felt like I shouldnt drop it here but it all of a sudden feels so pumpy and hard to gain the last hold needed to just stand up. I felt pretty solid for the rest of the climb. Love the movement.

Lengthy climb with many wasp nests this time of year

Great lil number in the corner here. The crag in general was very waspy today. 🙃

First time climbing in 3 weeks and recovering from the covid. One hang before the crux. Felt pretty solid and recalled most of the beta. Should be giving it some proper goes next session.

2nd try very happy felt good

Was a little rattled after the days events. Just going up to clean and ended up only sitting once after the crux.

This was way closer than I realised. Super fun and will have to come back promptly for the send. Stung by wasp on the headwall Clean on lower sucks!

First burn. Felt pretty reasonable and quite fun. Tt felt like full body climbing with plenty of options to find creative kneebars and positions. Crux felt quite hard first time around. Beware of the wasps nest slightly right on the top headwall.

Thanks to Cal for some beta

Super happy to comfortably send this nice climb.

The guide book has it at 21 and tbh I thought that was high already, lol. Thought required but no real difficult moves.

Got through the blade (crux?) but got mixed up in transition to the next wall.

Classic with a lot of variety and consistently interesting\challenging.

I thought it was 22-23 but if you think it's 21 then ok...

Too scary for me, built a nest to lower on and bailed. Hopefully the gear is still there next weekend

Spooooky, big decking potential at the crux

Somehow the extension makes it easier than lust

Sent greed first go but tried to repeat last for the insight and took a ground fall, luckily I only twisted my ankle

Very cool

Some cool/intimidating stemming, but the moves are not actually that hard

made awkward moves very awkwardly

Never have been more thankful for a fire hose of beta being sprayed at me 😂 went pretty easy after the beta was dialled.