Routen in The Lighthouse

Not in current guidebook but it was there last time I was. --Lee.

Abseil down to double bolt belay. Pre or stick clip 1st bolt. Follow the arete the whole way up

Line of ringbolts left of the Mister Bean arete. Abseil down to small ledge with 2 glue-in carrot bolts as belay. Up past 4 rings and a mid-sized cam.

The wide crack / chimney right of the Krill-a-Whale buttress. Rap down the line to a 2 carrot bolt belay at a small ledge halfway down the left wall. Up the line passing two carrot bolts on the wide part at the top.

This ones for you Damo! A long steep pitch of mixed climbing following a weakness and corner system up high. Bring a full rack (doubles of hand to fist size cams and some wires). The first 15m is all trad then once the angle steepens it's spaced ringbolts and trad to the top. Belay off FH and ringbolt with long slings.

Start down to the left of the arete.

Great position and cool climbing.

The wide crack / chimney left of the Krill a Whale buttress. Rap down to the big ledge. Climb the right curving flake to a ledge. Either belay on the ledge or continue up the crack in one pitch.

A fun multipitch up excellent orange marbled rock. The easiest sport route on the lower cliffs, and conveniently right below the left end of Windjammer Wall. As with any route on the lower cliffs, good conditions are key to enjoyment. Keep an eye out for a breezy, low humidity day and the rock will be glorious. In other conditions it can be damp and slippery! As of June 2013 the final pitch has been partially de-bolted, so you will need to use trad gear on this pitch or finish up one of the plethora of classics on Windjammer Wall. First, get to the base of Windjammer Wall anyway you can (rapping down Man Overboard is probably the best). Walk to the far left end of the crag to where the vegetated ledge ends and a very narrow rock ledge begins (5m left of the base of the route Midnight Lightning and below the route Beside the Seaside). Edge cautiously along ledge for a few metres to find double rap rings below the route Beside the Seaside (p.66 in Climb Point Perp print guide). Rap 45m from these bolts to medium sized rock ledge about 10m above the ocean. There is a single RB to belay from. You will need two 50m ropes. You CANNOT use the anchors at the end of pitch 1 as a midway rap point as they are too diagonal and overhung to reach. The start of this route is actually shared with the start of the 2nd pitch of the old climb Hooray and Up She Rises (p.128 of the Climb Point Perp print guide.)

1. 20m (18) From the single RB belay follow the bolts up and slightly right through a couple of bulges and lots of slopers to small ledge. Double RB belay.

2. 25m (17) Left trending RBs to 'slot' and small bush. Climb past this annoying impasse anyway you can, then left and up to ledge left of Midnight Lightning and double RB belay.

3. 30m (15) Finish up 'Beside the Seaside'. You will need some trad. From above the anchors climb tricky fused corner for a few metres then romp up a series of grey walls and ledges past 2 rings to top of cliff. This was/is a partial retrobolt of Beside the Seaside. Alternatively walk along the Windjammer Wall ledge and exit via Man Overboard or Grey Mist.

The broken crack line left of Fat Man's Misery and R of Destructive Wombats. Rap down to the big ledge. Climb the right curving flake to a ledge. Either belay on the ledge or continue up the crack in one pitch.

Start: 4m right of corner. Straight up the wall past many cam placements and a BOMBER sling at half height!

A much longer and better version of the original - starting from double bolt belay on small ledge on right side of arete, below the Levee Breaks terrace. Left and up quartz infused face (lots of FHs) to eventually join into original route at 15m at crack section (medium cams). Finish up original arete past bolt and cams.

Juggy right facing open-book corner bordering the left side of the Atmosfear Wall. This route seeps for much of the year - with drainage coming down from the pools below the lighthouse

Start: 2m right of corner. Up wall to flake then bolt to top. Watch the runouts!

This is the corner below where the lighthouse enclosure fence meets the cliff top.

The corner between Proudly Penguin and When the Levee Breaks. Bridge up the corner and chimney with good protection. Take a sling for the big thread near the top.

Start just right of LRRH. Up the line with four FHs and pockets for cams or just run it out.

The major crack line between When the Levee Breaks and Red Riding Hood. Start as for Red Riding Hood. Follow the hairline crack up the wall until the ledge. Climb the short pedestal and move right into the crack. Up the crack passing two bolts (on the right of the crack).

Traverse out left and up, aiming for the nose. Up this to the top. There is a bolt hanger to get you past the fairly blank section on the arete. Double carrot belay on top.

Start: Rap into the embankment just to the right of the lowest point in the lighthouse fence.

The wide crack just right of battle cruiser. A #5 or #6 wouldn't be missed for the top half

Steep wall 2m left of arete with not a lot of pro.

Start: Left side of arete, exposed stance.

Rap to same belay carrots as AHC.

Start same as AHC with gear, then rings on headwall.

Traverse left off ledge to hanging crack, great gear.

Low in the grade. Great climbing past 3 fixed brackets to a hard techy finnish on edges and monos.

Start on the Centurian Ledge as per Impact Zone. Step right onto a horizontal crack over the awesome exposure above the rocks below. One solid move then up the easy ramp to a two carrot belay at the top.

Up the corner crack.

Same belay as WCF.

Start: At the thin crack. Climb the thin crack until it ends at half height, step left to continue crack and up into the jams to top.

Named after the huge Testicle shaped boulder that Greg and Steve trundled off the ledge on the first ascent.

Up wall past bolts and small cam placements on sharp holds.

Start: 'Centurion' ledge

An alternate start to WTLB that takes in good placements for natural pro before rejoining the original line at the 3rd FH.

Start: 2m right of RHLC. Straight up the wall - small to medium cams help in the middle.

Left hand edge of ledge, up corner. Don't get drawn into the overhang. Instead, stay on the left face to place pro before the crux move.

Start: Same start as RIR

Abseil off Mako's Legacys rings. Recommend pre placing yellow camalot in pocket through crux and extending quick draw. Hanging belay off cams Follow crack up as for trad dadz, rest before blasting over overlap through crux and keep ya shit together for the spicy run out to top on the slab

Great steep climbing with some tough to read moves. Rap in to find two hard-to-see carrots placed directly into a horizontal ledge. Slabby start on polished rock (cams in horizontals) to high BR when the rock steepens. Continue up overhung face above past FH and a a couple more BRs.

Left of Centurion is a section of vertical plates jutting out. After this section there is a small embayment. Typhoon is the crack in the right corner of the embayment. Abseil down the middle of the embayment until you get to a small ledge with a 2 carrot bolt belay. The belay is at the base of a seam in the slabby wall. Start up the slabby wall past 2 carrot bolts trending right. Then up the right corner crack.

Abseil off the back of buttress on makos legacy anchors. Hanging belay on cams left of Bung Eye. Unreal positioning. Follow finger crack up then dog leg left and over bulge into wide crack. Follow this to top (Same exit as SBA ice cream.)

Put up the weekend of the Bathurst car races, and named accordingly to annoy James. Abseil down and set up a belay in Voyager. Step right and head up the right corner crack. The crack is fused at the top.

Thin flake with 3 FHs right of Destructive Wombats.

On February 10th 1964 the navy destroyer Voyager was sunk off Jervis Bay when it collided with the aircraft carrier Melbourne. 82 men died in the incident. Left of Centurion is a section of vertical plates jutting out. After this section there is a small embayment. Left of the embayment there are a couple of cracks in the cliff top. The Right crack is Voyager and the Left crack is Destroyer. Find the 2 carrot bolts at the top and Abseil down the line to a good ledge in an embayment. Up the left corner crack.

Atmospheric. The next crack left of Voyager. Rap down Voyager and set up a belay on the step about 1m below the main ledge, use the rap rope to backup the belay. Traverse left along the break and up the crack. Good protection once you are in the crack.

A nice clean crack with excellent easy to place protection. The next corner crack right of Hollywood Boulevard. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge (as per Hollywood Boulevard). Walk around the corner (stay on the abseil rope) and set up a belay. Up the corner crack.

There is a west facing orange wall about 10m right of Coleridge. Hollywood Boulevard is the corner crack at the left side of this wall. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge. Up the corner cracks.

The broken twin cracks 2m left of Hollywood Boulevard. Rap down the corner to the grassy ledge. Step left and up the cracks with good protection.

Up small corner (bolt) to wall, then tending right slightly past more bolts.

Named in honour of the second who had a hangover and had recently been listening to a Philip Glass song "Liquid Days"

The bolts left of Bondage and Discipline.

Exposed - Traverse left near arete past bolt, up past more.

Start: Same belay as 'Centurion'

Up corner, then left passing bolts to arete, up arete with cams. Near top, traverse back right and up final bolt line.

Start: Start as for 'Liquid Daze'

The Point's first route bolted with titanium. Rap from carrots to reach semi-hanging belay with foot ledge (double rings). Long, pumpy and well-protected climbing with 10 bolts and one or two obvious medium cam placements, or run it out (safe).

Start: Start on same ledge.

Start: As for 'Liquid Insanity' but dont traverse back right, continue up arete.

Overhung and very very exposed - even for Point Perp standards. This is a mixed route - only 3 bolts in the lower half - the rest is cams in horizontals - try not to pump off placing them! Rap in down the finish corner of Women and Children first - clipping into gear/bolts on the way down to stay connected to the rock to ridiculous hanging belay on lip of roof. Climb up and right through short chossy section to rooflet, over this (reachy) then straight up face and steepness above. Cams from finger to wide fist size required.

Many cams!

Up white corner grove to block, step right. Continue crack to the right end of a big roof. Step right and up to break, up then left to big orange headwall.

Start: Same as for banksia and coleridge.

Up groove passing carrots.

Nice wall take lots of small cams and wires.

Double carrot belay

Start: On halfway ledge as for Two Ounces

Appears to have been rebolted. Wide corner crack with carrots as well as some gear & thread opportunities.

Start as for 'Mind the Gap'. After placing cam in big pocket, traverse right past one ring bolt to the arete (cams in pocket and in flakes- make sure you have a #2 C3 to protect final crux). Enjoy the view then punch up the arete. Great exposure!

The first arête right of the lighthouse fence. Excellent protection. Find the 2 carrot bolts at the top and abseil down the arete to Ring bolt belay. Climb up passing 10 Ring bolts , a couple of cams and a thread (120cm sling handy).

There is a lower start only 5m lower for this bring x5 carrots

Climb off the block staying out of the corner passing a few FHs and many medium cams. Is slightly run out at the top, but is easier and you can put in some big cams if you really want.

Start: Rap in to an exposed triangular block with 2 FH for belay.

Clip first bolt of FL, then make way to arete passing another bolt. Follow arete passing 8 more bolts with one hidden around the left. Apparently grade 26 if you don't use the holds on the left of arete (but given one of the bolts is around there... .

Continous steep climbing on mostly big holds. Currently the right most line of bolts on the lower wall. Easy start up jugs then the angle starts to steepen and the holds get smaller. Keep fighting through a pumpy section to jugs. Finish up superb polished rock heading slightly left to double rings on ledge below top pitch of All Guns Blazing.

The top pitch of Seahawk from DBB. Carefully up the brittle undercut start then march up and slightly right through band after band of different rock types. This pitch is quite overhung but juggy most of the way.

The face left of Whalesong with squillions of carrots - that are very hard to spot from below. Start on the left side of blunt arete at the foot of the buttress. Although generally the rock is excellent on this route, there are many large detached flakes that should have been removed with a hammer by the first ascent team. Be warned - get your belayer to wear a helmet. Don't believe the print guide topo - there is NO lower-off anchor at the top of this climb - just two carrots. You will need to finish up Superliner to get off.

Undercut start to (shock horror) short bolted corner crack. When this ends pick your way up pumpy pocketed headwall until blistering crimpy crux at smooth orange section. Finish up long section of large sandy pockets. Retire. 13 bolts.

Easier variant to Seahawk's second pitch. From belay ledge climb right clipping first two bolts of Seahawk, then keep traversin right and up white polished wall past two expansion bolts to ledge. Climbed on Neil's wedding day!

Impressive steep arete, overhung on both sides. Bolts still good as at 2020. Fantastic easier climbing to a stout final section.

A long pumper on pockets. A touch overhung. It's the ringbolted route squeezed between Destroyer and Voyager, but starting much lower on tiny 'ledge' with ring bolts.

Rap in off double rings to double rings at ledge. Up then punchy second half with a big chuck to a pocket to finish

Rap in off ring and carrot. Down to double ring belay. Moderate move past 1st ring and punchy crux near top. Enjoy

Abseil off double rings to ledge. Double ring belay. Pre clip 1st ring as little spicy move down low. Cruise to mid height for punchy crux then go for ze sumeet

Rap off carrots, clipping some bolts on way down otherwise your stranded in space. Belay off double rings at small stance..Climbs switches on at halfway mark, if you don't like mono's you won't like this

Short punchy face. This is NOT a three star route. Maybe one star.

Best to rap off carrots for Sieze The Day access, and stop on good size ledge (enough for 3) belay off two rings, start looks intimidating but its fairly easy crux at mid height and the very top