Routen in Cania Gorge für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

An deceptive little sucker... Quite a nice splitter despite the tree guarding the start! The first obvious splitter crack you come to after The Castle, walking east.

Starts 10m left of Cathedral cave. Follow the thin right-leaning crack to a small cave at 30m (belay possible). Step up right from the cave to an awkward mantle onto a ledge then traverse delicately left to the arête in an airy position. Easily to top.

Follow the line of ring bolts up the arete and face. You can lower of the top with 70m rope.

Offwidth corner starting from a ledge 10m from the base of the cliff. Graded 19, but Tony would say it's a 20.

Avoids all the offwidths. Climbs the handcrack to cave and then up the flake. Instead of continuing up the wide crack above, hand traverse left then up thin corner crack. Continue up the widening crack with plenty of face holds to trad belay in cave.

Climb the big corner using every crack climbing technique in the book, and then invent a few more. Approach it by climbing Isn't Anything.

The ZigZagging offwidth left of White Witch. Start on the ground with block on the left. After a short section of grunting to stand on the block layback to break with a move to establish in wider crack above. Wade into the body chimney above with a great stemming finale over final block. Rap off large tree. Take 2 X #4 and 1 X #5 and various smaller cams.

The body crack just right of the arete right of White Witch. Face climb the bottom half of the crack, step into the chimney and grunt your way to the top. Tree belay on big ledge. It awaits a second pitch.

An alpine style adventure route, with a couple of hair-raising traverses.

1. 30m. 19. As for No Country for Old Men.

2. 20m. 17. Up the big orange slabby corner for about 7m. Scoot left across slab at half height to a rest on the arete. Move left again into the deep groove and up it to belay beneath the imposing black crack through the headwall.

3. 20m. 12. Traverse left across slab to arête then bite the bullet and launch straight up on scary (but reasonably solid) rock to top.

The big rightwards facing orange corner at the left hand end of Cow Tracks cliff. Bridge up the smooth corner until you can reach left to a flake system. Climb this and step left onto the arete to finish. Rap off fixed gear.

Climb up onto the wobbly ledge then cruxy moves into short hand crack. Up past jugs to thin face and crack up top.

Just right of 'Tesselated Nuts'. Great climbing up the zig/zag thin seam to exciting exit. Climb one of the routes off the top out ledge to reach the 31 flavours terrace.

Hard start up to the tree then continue up crack and over steep bulge. Climb the easy face to the top and tree belay.

Starts at the tree stump right of Remains of the Dale. Step in from the left, and follow your nose to the ledge.

From here, head up the super thin seam. Climbs independently from the corner (which is yet to be climbed), but close enough you can step across. Top out to belay from same tree as RotD.

Climb the blank start to the magnificent finger crack. The FFA was done with out a bolt protecting the start.

Locate the left leaning crack in the middle of the wall 30m left of Strange Brothers. This is the second pitch and the money pitch. Access to the ledge via climbing a 10m crack approximately 5m to the right in the corner (pitch 1, grade 15). Climb the left leaning thin splitter to the second ledge (pitch 2, hard), rappel off tree possible. Third pitch starts in the corner to the right and leads to the top of the cliff (pitch 3, grade 15).

The right corner, through cave and up blockey crack. Surprisingly good holds and moves all the way. The first ascent saw a brief battle with a tuft of grass and wasp nests that left the climber in the same state as the rope: dirty and twisted. Rap from a tree to the left.

Awesome movement. Bomber pro. Brilliant position.

Pitch 1 - 16 - 20m - Climb left facing corner 5m left of Cracklett. Be careful of rubble on the ledge at 10m when pulling up to it. Belay at tree.

Pitch 2 - 19 - 20m - Use bomber .75 and hex to protect awkward fall off belay. Big two moves up and over bulge to the left of the Elkhorn Ferns. Ramble to the left, place good gear and pull through rooflet (crux). Up easily to belay at tree.

Pitch 3 - 16 - 30m - Move belay up vegetated gully 10m to tree growing sideways out of rock. From here, an undercut section starts a right-hand traverse moving upwards once reaching diagonal crack on grey wall. Place friendly gear for the 2nd. Awesome pitch! Cania at its finest.

Belay at boulder at top of cliff. Follow edge 20m to lookers left to rap off tree. 60m rope is sufficient.

Climb as 2 pitches P1 climb immaculate ramp and right hand corner crack up to massive detached shelf belay under roof. 16, 25m

P2 climb around roof and push on up through ever widening slot to make desperate finish 19, 15m

Scramble up rock gully to left of stag horn covered rock and head for base of orange v-block to left. Head up right hand crack of orange V-block (crux) heading for block sticking out above you (block moves slightly). Continue up - trending slightly left to small alcove with groove above (2nd crux). Through this to good holds and a right leaning crack to ledge (BD #4 handy). Move left along ledge and up to finish. Tree and rock horn belay. Walk off left and down gully.

Stellar handjams mixed with with great face holds and an interesting cave after the initial crux.