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Einträge in Milky Way

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Eintrag
Milky Way

A three tier cliff. Top tier is Ben And Jerrys, middle tier is '31 Flavours', lower tier is Cold Rock.

Cold Rock

The lower teir of the milky way

Cold Rock
Tessellated Nuts

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

19 Running on Vaporlocks

Just right of 'Tesselated Nuts'. Great climbing up the zig/zag thin seam to exciting exit. Climb one of the routes off the top out ledge to reach the 31 flavours terrace.

11 Shower of love

Up the crack system in the corner of the ledge above 'Running on Vaporlocks'

12 Delicious

Step right from the start of 'Shower of Love' to the dead tree. Move carefully off the small leafy ledge onto glowing orange wall bisected by a tasty crack. Simply gorgeous jamming and jugs lead to a bridging exit at a tree.

17 Mmmmm, deliiicious

Up the grey face and just right of the fig tree at half height then up the orange streak left of the black patch. Trend back right to top out.

18 Big balls, small nuts

Up orange streak right of the black patch. Small gear for the crux - we used ball nuts.

17 Cocky in the Hole

Up the crack on the right of the orange patch.

All of the routes on this face have surprisingly good gear, although the starts are sometimes a bit sparse. At the top of this route are some rap rings to save the trees; accessible by all routes on this face.

16 Hi, First Piece

2m left of the vegetated crack. Through the middle of the small overhang at the ground then fairly straight up. A small (black or white) tri-cam was the first piece in some sneaky pockets otherwise your first piece might be quite high. Good nuts all the way to the top.

15 Red Vine

Up the vegetated crack

14 Dale-icious

Start as for Red Vine, traverse right to the obvious weaknesses. Finish just right of the tree. Tree belay or gear on back wall.

14 Jack and Jill Went Up the Hill to Fetch a Dale of Water

Start up the very left of the undercut and then keep traversing right as low as possible whilst still finding gear (it's there). Then to the arete and up.

15 Game Over

A fun easy ramble. Start right of big capped boulder at twin cracks below a short ramp. Named for Ben Carter who, upon dropping his wires at the start of comic relief at Arapiles, looked down and uttered the now infamous exclamation "Game Over"

18 Afternoon Dale-ite

Up crack with plenty of face holds and into pleasant chimney with gear in the back. Continue upwards to tree belay.

19 Remains of the Dale

Hard start up to the tree then continue up crack and over steep bulge. Climb the easy face to the top and tree belay.

19 Feminine Anemone

Starts at the tree stump right of Remains of the Dale. Step in from the left, and follow your nose to the ledge.

From here, head up the super thin seam. Climbs independently from the corner (which is yet to be climbed), but close enough you can step across. Top out to belay from same tree as RotD.

21 Dire Straights

The well protected thin crack on a ledge far right on cold rock wall. cruse up the finger crack before it closes prematurely to less than ideal tips....think tall thoughts.

31 Flavours

The middle tier of the Milky Way. Everything you want from fully bolted routes to mixed and pure trad. Cracks and face climbing side by side.

31 Flavours
21 I do it for the Bitches

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

22 I do it for the Money

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

17 Fall Back Position

Far left end of the main wall. Start near tree in corner following twin cracks. After knobby orange feature, follow single crack to top. Great gear, holds and jams.

17 A Second of Destruction

Start up triple cracks into broken wide crack. Out of this onto face and up, climbing RH face of gully at the top.

18 Intergalactic Bubblegum

Follow bolts up to horizontal break (cam or wire) then continue up passing 2 more bolts to anchor.

14 Unknown Route

Two routes on the topos were previously listed as A Second of Destruction. This is the one on the right.

18 Bipolar Unicorn

Twin cracks 2 m right of ASOD. Up cracks and straight up to tree belay.

16 Many Can't Crux

Starts at next large crack right of BU. Up wide crack, traverse left and pull over bulge (small wires). Up onto ledge, then right hand facing corner to top. Tree belay(s).

12 Brendan's First Root

Start at the same crack as MCC, traverse out right and follow the crack passing the tree on the left, then up to the top staying on the right. Tree belay

18 The Rebound

Boulder up the rippled section to the big ledge, then easily up the lighter coloured rock to tree belay

18 M0 On the Shoulders of Giants

Shares the start of Marshmellow to the ledge then then up the orange streak. Stand on you belayer's shoulders to reach the pockets or boulder the start.

24 Marshmallow

Boulder problem to the two large pockets (crux) then up to ledge. Thin face climbing up the white streak on small gear (grade 22).

15 Copacabanana

Another crack.

19 The Magnificent Ulysses Butterfly

Climb the blank start to the magnificent finger crack. The FFA was done with out a bolt protecting the start.

18 The Bird That Ate My Soul

Start just left of the tree stump and follow the line of bolts straight up.

18 Sword Of Damocles

The right-most crack on the cliff. Hardish start then very fun JamBing and jug hauling to top. Belay from tree on left. Rap off same tree.

21 Bad Behaviour

Start just left of CS following the line of bolts and natural gear to anchors

22 Champagne Supernova

The first bolted line on the RHS of the Milky Way. 3 Bolts with supplementary gear and a lower off

Ben and Jerrys

The upper tier of the Milky Way.

Ben and Jerrys
16 There were no gay vikings

First crack on the L side of B&J's

16 O is for oskar

in between B and OEF

23 Decepticon

The bright orange swath of rock with twin cracks on right and large overhanging roof block above. Climb the slippery twin cracks to skirt right around roof to a stance. Move up to horizontal hand crack in side of block, place some pieces and hand traverse over void with a big deadpoint move to gain top. Rap from tree above corner.

18 Brendo's

the twin crack R of NGV

16 Gough Medicine

Start in the middle of the two cracks. Climb the diagonal ramp and up jug ladder and face.

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