Routen als technisch in Australien

Something of a hybrid. The first pitch is free except for one long aid point. The less significant second pitch still holds a few aids.

Start: The next hanging corner R of 'Icarus' is now easily identifiable by 2 shiny new FHs on the steeply undercut face below the corner. (This is a closed project which is attempting to free the batman start (extremely bouldery)).

1. 24m (31 M2) Batman to the first bolt above the FHs, continue up corner past dodgy old "Pollitt ring-bolts" to abseil anchor.

2. 31m (- M2) Free up to ledge below crack across roof. Aid roof and up to top.

All the business on Crankshaft (traverse) then a couple of tough moves to gain the start holds of the 3 move V8 corner.

Start: Start 6m right of 'Jewel Box'.

1. 35m (29) Excellent sustained climbing on bolts to the little cave above with a fixed anchor.

2. 25m (21) (21M1) Straight up the groove past many bolts to a belay underneath the roof.

3. 40m (22) (22M1) Aid through the roof to wall above, then move right to flake. Up through the overlap then left and up to a niche and bolt belay.

4. 25m (19) Move left and up to the buttress above on beautiful rock. The route finishes at the bottom of the impossible looking buttress. Bolts to rap off.

Similar to 'Gorgon' in grade and nature. Again most of the climbing is free.

Start: 'Trident' cracks on left wall of 'Leviathan' corner

This short variant halfway up the second pitch was the final link for the whole line to go free. Break L from the top of the initial fat flake/corner on pitch 2 of TSP, 2 bolts and hard moves take you over the bulge and up the thin face to gain the guano-stained flake on the original.

Start: Below the steep corner at top of cliff left of 'Echo Crack'.

1. 25m (27) Left facing corner to ledge, steep wall to scoop and ledge. can be aided (22M1).

2. 40m (19) Corner to block, left leading groove to shale band. Belay on left.

3. 15m (13) Shale band, right to ledge below the main corner.

4. 25m (20) Corner to ledge on right.

5. 21m (21) Corner to ledge on right.

6. 20m (18) Step left, corner to dirty groove, left and up to belay (hanging).

7. 15m (18) Up wall.

Has this had a second ascent? Covers mind boggling terrain.

Takes all the orange overhanging corners at the downstream end of the north wall. All belays are on bolts.

1. 40m (26) Start at the overhanging crack/roof and cruise through to the wall and cave above. Out over the cave lip and trend diagonally right to a bolt belay.

2. 40m (21M1) Surmount overlap and traverse left. Aid up bolts over another overlap, ho-hum, to finish up a crack and the next niche belay.

3. 30m (22) Crack and slab above and move right and up a steep little buttress to gain the belay.

4. 40m (23) Step right and over the bulge to gain the big corner. Continue up to the 3 bolts which traverse right across a little orange face to the lip of the overhang. Now up the crack to the belay.

5. 30m (21) Up the orange rock to a bolt. Traverse left at the line to gain a steep groove and bulge which leads to a belay ledge.

6. 40m (22) This pitch is on beautiful grey slabby rock. Start in the corner and take a leftwards sloping crack to gain the vertical groove which leads to easier ground and trees.

Steep and technical. Will go free at some point. Starts at the wall down and L of Smiler. Boulder the wall with no pro to a pea-pod and a fixed pin (about Gr 19). Hard moves up and onto the ramp and follow this to the black wall. One or two aids brings the diagonal to hand. Swing R and up this to the top.

A good line spoilt by a single aid move on the second pitch. The first pitch is a popular and well chalked line with a handy lower-off, but beware that falls before the 1st bolt have strained a few ankles on the swing into the slab below.

Start at the flake/seam 5m right of Tokyo Rose, on the elevated ledge.

1. 18m (25) Up the right-facing slabby flake, then burly moves to jug (RB). Crux crimps past 2nd RB to break, traverse R to guano ledge and DRB (18m). Wash your hands afterwards to safeguard against bird flu!

2. 20m (26 M1) Take bolt brackets. Climb the closed corner above the ledge past 1 or 2 old fixed wires (bring your own too) then traverse left to gain the overhung ramp. Follow the ramp past three bolts (2nd bolt for aid) then up the headwall past final bolt to top. The aid move (an awkward dyno to a tricky catch of a pocket) might go free at 30+ if the strong persist.

The brilliant first pitch originally involved desperate and dangerous aid (M7) on which Noddy learned how to place RURPs. He also placed his first bong in what should have been his first good runner at the end of the crux. However Noddy didn't know how to use bongs so he put it in sideways and carried on in blissfull ignorance.

The free version avoids the RURP seam by easier climbing just to the left. Take a full rack from RP 0 to #4 Cam.

The upper pitches are much easier so parties abseil after pitch one (bring some tat for the bolts) and it seems that no-one has bothered freeing the second pitch. The third pitch had it's single aid point eliminated at the giddy grade of 10.

Start: Start by the column leaning against the cliff.

1. 33m (26) Climb just left of the RURP-seam into the all-too-obvious line and follow it over a roof to ledge and bolt belay.

2. 24m (13 M2) Corner then four aids to pass roof. Up to conifer.

3. 33m (10) Go 3m right, up to ledge, corner, traverse left then back up right to tree.

4. 12m (-) Scrub

The longest hard-ish route on the plateau, with pitch grades of 16, 23, 25 M1, 20, 21, 19, easy, 24, 22, 21, 22, ?, 13. Warning!!! Pitches 2 and 3 have a few dangerous (brittle) screw-in ring bolts which need to be replaced! Access: either scramble down, down, down Queen Vic Gully to the foot of the buttress, or make the many abseils required down the route (it the latter option is chosen, realise that a bit further than half way down there is notch behind the lower of the two pinnacles that are major features of this buttress. A short roped scramble/climb up the back of tis lower pinnacle is required before the abseiling can be continued down the route to the bottom). Route is best described and seen by the route description and photo-topo on pp112 and 113 respectively of the 2006 guidebook

The south-west arete of the block gives an unusual and unlikely climb. Lassoo spike at 7m and free climb from there!

Rebolted 2016. Start as for Dance of Life. Aid on the bolts and monkey R to the arete as for Dance of Life. Then trend L up the arete, into a funky groove and up to a long-awaited FH (the Lure). There is little protection for quite a distance before this lone bolt. Join Clean Sweep (better) or Dinosaurs Don't Dyno (easier) for the last few metres.

Start: Towards the right hand end of the lower tier.

Left hand crack line to seam, past one bolt on slab to tree belay. A couple of aid rests were used.

Across the fence from Split Rock, walk left to a boulder with a distinctive finger crack running diagonally (left to right) across its face. Start off the flat slab almost against the boulder.

Test your nerve and skill on this little big wall in the Grose Valley.

Gear: Double rack of cams from #0.3 to #4. You could probably do it with a single #4, but two is nice. Small cams including #0.1. Wide cam hooks. Wires from tiny to thin-hands size. Pitons from 5mm to 7mm (for the time being). Hammer. Aid ladders and daisys. Jumars. It is possible to bail from the top of pitch 3 if you have two 60m ropes.

1. As for P1 of Samarkand

2. (23) Do the Samarkand "boulder problem" but turn left when you reach the break. After traversing a few metres, go upwards to reach the base of a 3m high block of choss (Dave Tower). Climb up the corner on the left side of the block to get on top of it. Be careful: you will stand on a detached stone slab which could overbalance and go over the edge. Do not put too much weight on the outside edge of the slab! Belay from gear in corner crack and one carrot.

3. (21) Climb up the corner crack for about 8m, then clip a carrot and move up-and-left onto the face. After climbing upwards another ~8m you will reach a layback flake with a small finger-size space behind it. Climb this to reach a horizontal break with a ring bolt. Belay here. Several traumatic experiences were had on this pitch before it was cleaned up. Death blocks have now been removed and one carrot added.

4. (A2+) The Great Roof. Aid carefully up the corner with gear behind thin flakes before getting some good cams in. It's worth taking a #4 if you have one to spare. Do some cam hook moves to get up to and around the rooflet to reach a carrot under the big roof. Aid through the roof crack on knifeblade pitons (which may or may not be there already, and may or may not blow) until you can start to use clean gear. The FA was done with 3 pitons, so please do try to use clean gear as soon as it is available rather than continuing to nail. Continue to the end of the roof crack, then proceed upwards a few metres in the crack to reach a ledge ~1m wide (Camp IV). Make an anchor using a carrot backed up onto two fixed pitons in the corner. The second will need to re-aid to clean the roof. If you're hauling, it's best to haul from the ground to here. A 60m rope is too short for that, but a 70 might make it.

5. (24) Changing Corners. Beware of rope drag. Climb left and up a couple of metres from the belay to reach a break. Traverse left in the break using big cams as pro and mantle onto the ledge at the corner. Climb the corner crack and then on jugs for a few metres, then reach right onto the face and clip a carrot. Traverse right, then climb upwards and clip a RB. Climb up the corner and arete (crux). A #3 cam can be used as pro above the crux. Continue upwards onto the face and climb fairly easily up to the ledge and belay from two RBs.

6. (23) Move right to the hanging arete, then climb upwards (two RBs) to a ledge. Put gear in, then climb another couple of metres up (tricky). Now climb the crack to the top. There is a crux about 2/3 of the way up where the crack is fused. Above that the rock quality and gear is not A+. Belay from two RBs in the rooflet.

It's not really a pitch, but you will have to belay a leader as they traverse left on the ledge (2RBs) to reach the cave. Belay the second from a big rock in the cave. If you're hauling, you'll need to manhandle the gear across this ledge too, possibly in multiple trips.

Start: Start from the left end of Big Greenie. Takes the corner and arête.

1. 20m (21) From a stance on a slab cruise up the ramp to a bolt. Some slippery moves past this then up to another bolt. Up to the block and ledge with chains at the base of a corner.

2. 20m (24 M1) (24M1) Up the corner past a couple of bolts to some thin bridging (crux) and wires. Continue up the steepening corner past bolts to an overhang. Pull around this on finger pockets to a double bolt belay.

3. 25m (23 M1) (23M1) Up the sharp arête past bolts to a rest. Clip a bolt and then move up (crux) and right to easier climbing. Chain belay. Rap down.

The main line on Rain Wall. Start by roping up for an exposed ledge system descending left of Broken English;

1. 25m Traverse down left along break to hanging belay where line sweeps upward.

2. 25m (24 M1) Left along the line (2 wires for aid near start)

3. 30m Up line to top.

Outstanding and unlikely climbing on amazing rock, with great pro and a bouldery finish.

Start just R of Dinosaurs Don't Dyno, on the R end of the elevated ledge. But belay at ground level to reduce rope drag and improve communication. Delicately sidle R and slightly up along the small ledge/slab, until it terminates in a hanging 'horn' of rock. A tricky reach off the horn gains a RB and BR. Aid on these to gain the flake, then monkey R to the arete. Trend R and up the gorgeous orange scoops to large break (optional belay). Continue up flakes to crimpy finish (BR). Full rack, extenders and 2 bolt plates.

For almost 25 years this route has largely been neglected due to a reputation for having a runout crux. In reality, it can be completely sewed up if you have plenty of micro-wires and a blue alien, and the endurance to hang around and fiddle them in. Plus the climbing is simply immaculate and, even despite the aid bolt, this must be a strong contender for the best 24 in the Grampians.

Start as for Dance of Life. Aid on the bolts and jug R to the arete as for Dance of Life. From there climb straight up the grey faint groove with fantastic sustained moves all the way to the horizontal breaks, then directly up the excellent blunt arete.

Start: Bash your way to the right side of the next buttress. This arete looks pretty good from Teenager Buttress!

1. 30m (24 M1) Aid on carrot, left under the roof then right. Up wall and arete to break. Up to belay on ledge.

2. 35m (22) Up the arete.

Wide crack cruxy start near the coffin cave gets you to a good cave ledge. Pop up onto the main face and up and around arete. Up grey slab above.

An impressive line, even more so now that is free.

Start: It\\\\'s the huge orange corner 18m right of 'Harbinger'.

1. 18m (18) Follow the weakness to the foot of a small overhang.

2. 27m (24) Climb the crack (originally aid) until to the roof and traverse left to a ledge.

3. 20m (-) Climb the short crack, move left into the major line, up to belay below a steep orange corner

4. 14m (-) Traverse left, then up to finish left of the overhangs.

1. 46m (23)

2. 27m (- M1)

3. 57m (- M5)

4. 24m (-)

5. 21m (16) As for 'Ozymandias' p9.

6. 24m (14) As for 'Ozymandias' p10.

1. 46m (23)

2. 21m (-)

3. 24m (- M4)

4. 21m (-)

5. 43m (-)

Start: About the same as for TCFR. Bolts + trad.

1. 45m 17 - From large tree left of a large right leaning corner crack, up steep slab trending right to the orange wall and DBB at overhanging corner.

2. 25m 22 - Up steeply into corner (careful of loose blocks), first bolt is high & natural placements available pretty sustained up corner then onto face following bolts to DBB. The best pitch!

3. 25m 23 A1 - Up face small cam placement in crack on left, trend right towards overhang (very tricky moves through the overhang) follow to the large ledge with a tree and DBB. (This pitch is run out and will need another bolt after the lip of the overhang)

4. 25m 21 - Follow BRs to DBB. You’ll need a dozen brackets for this pitch. (pitch 3 not free as yet & open to anyone)

Connects 'Jewel Box' to 'Coal Sack'.

1. 42m (23) Up 'Jewel Box' to hanging belay in large scoop just below the cave.

2. 50m (22) Traverse leftwards until the holds runout and you are forced to do a tension traverse to gain more holds and join the 3rd pitch of 'Coal Sack'.

3. 40m (21) (21M1) Same as 'Coal Sack' pitch 4.

4. 35m (21) Same as 'Coal Sack' pitch 5.

Start in the rainforest just L of the big tree, 50m R of 'The Sacred Snakes of Tanahlot'.

Named after the camera that failed the test.

1. 35m (23 M1) Climb to the overhang at 5m, first bolt is out on the lip. Aid move M1 (bolt) to overcome the lip. Free to the bulge, aid through the bulge M1 (4 bolts) to gain the rock above the bulge, free up to and through the next bulge to the hanging belay. U bolt & bolt belay.

2. 15m (19) Up trending R, then trending L to hanging belay at the bottom of a corner system and big pocket. U bolt belay, also small pro if desired e.g. #2 Rock.

3. 15m (23) Straight up the slab to the overlap blocks, very airy position, watch for rope drag, slab finish. U bolt & bolt belay.

4. 35m (20) Layaways, crimps and mantles with heaps of atmosphere. Go up and over the ledgy top to rings 21, 22 & 23.

Named after a comment by a local 'hardman' of yesteryear. Takes the central line about three metres right of Never Get Famous. The first pitch has some good moves.

1. 15 metres (23) - Thin and technical wall climbing past two bolts.

2. 20 metres (19M1) - Continue up the weakness and then aid the thin wall through the roof. Continue up of traverse off.

The top pitch might be the best on the crag, shame about what it takes to get there.

Start: Start at the corner about 8-10m L of 'Dr Freeze'.

1. 30m (17) Mild. Up the corner for about 12m then onto the slab and doddle up L for 15-20m to the belay ledge and DRB. Mostly trad plus maybe a carrot or two (stainless glue-in).

2. 18m (23 M1) Sport. Good 23 climbing up to a couple of stopper moves near the top of the pitch that will be 27+. Pull on a couple of bolts.

3. 22m (21) Sport. The awesome shallow groove, beautiful sustained moves the whole way on perfect Blueys stone.

1. 46m (23)

2. 27m (- M1)

3. 43m (-)

4. 43m (-)

The best line on the cliff, starting just right of "First Past The Post"

1. 20m (23) Up the corner line, over the awkward bulge and step left to belay

2. 25m (23 M0) Veer right up the continuing line to the left-hand of two hanging corners. Up the corner with 1 wire for aid.

A worthwhile climb taking the curving flake/corner.

Start: 3m left of 'Grim Reaper'. From the small ledge, use the bolt for aid and climb the thin crack.

Start 15 metres left of 'Grease is the Word', just left of the bottom wall.

1. 45 metres (20) - Trend left and then straight up over breaks to a cleaned streak. Hard moves past a bolt and continue upwards to the huge overlap and belay.

2. 15 metres (23M0) - Step left and climb strenuously up the wildly overhanging line on the overlap. Pull through the spiders to the top.

An attractive seam up a smooth wall to an overhang still has one or two aids on the overhang and should go free to a tall climber. However, as usual the climbing eases off dramatically after the first thirty or forty metres.

The aspiring aid climber can view the bathook holes at the start and salivate. Bear in mind that the carrot bolt runners are aid, not protection, bolts

Start: Below the obvious seam up the smooth wall.

1. 21m (23 M0) The seam past the odd carrot. Use one or two of the bolts in the roof for aid and then continue up to bolt anchor

2. 27m (-) Up.

3. 22m (-) Crawl right to bushy line, up to terrace (apparently Steve Monks straightened this out a bit). Now up left.

4. 30m (-) Groove, shallow corner. Step left and up slightly right to below yellow corner.

5. 20m (-) Corner, poor rock. Exit right around overhang.

Read warning below. This route does have bolts with SS carrots but they are quite well spaced apart at about 5 metres so pucker factor is a major issue. Top pitches are very sparsely bolted with 20 metre run outs. As this climb is rarely done algal growth can obscure the bolts. full trad rack is also necessary. There is a 110 metre traverse on the lip of a huge roof. Ability to re ascend a rope is a must in this area for self rescue if fallen off route you'll be dangling 100 metres above the apron. Possibility of a bivy ledge one pitch above traverse ledge. Two people can squeeze on to this tight ledge. There is a descent option from the top of this climb however finding the start to the rap route is problematic. Good luck finding it. Best option is to find start at bottom. Start is around 2/3rds across left from descent gully.

Abseil descent has had it's anchors replaced as of early July 2020. All anchors are SS.

Warning.

Recent ascent by Duncan Steel. He describes the top several pitches as having deteriorated badly since he did it 15 years ago. We discussed why and we came to a consensus that the black lichen and the north facing cliff bakes in the summer sun and the skin of the rock exfoliates in the very high summer sun. This route really needs renovation and a retro bolt. Duncan warms that this climb is no trivial matter and death or very serious injury could result from anyone just turning up and having a go.

Start as for Ozy.

1. 24m (- M2) As for Ozy.

2. 27m (- M3)

3. 18m (- M4)

4. 30m (- M6)

5. 40m (- M7)

6. 40m (- M5)

7. 40m (- M4)

8. 30m (- M3)

9. 40m (18) There is a bolted belay (not shown in topo) at the bush about 12m below the plaque, if you wish to split this pitch in two.

10. 15m (- M3) The obvious offwidth corner above the plaque.

HB

Start: Start at the 6th belay of Ozy.

1. 22m (12 M3)

2. 25m (22)

3. 12m (20)

4. 12m (20) Then finish up 'Strange Ritual' or 'Lord Gumtree'.

A beautiful route venturing through some steep and hostile territory. Start halfway between Virago and A Little Rainbow at a prominent straight groove/crack heading for orange overhanging pitch.

1. 30 m Scramble up slabs to large blocks at base of R facing corner-crack.

2. 45 m Corner­ crack to just below small overlap (some poor rock). Hanging belay?

3. 15 m Corner-crack to shattered blocks below roof. May be able to link this with pitch 2.

4. 20 m Free to start of crack, then aid (pitons - some in place: knife-blades, small angles) as crack dies and leans R. L over roof. Semi-hanging belay (wires) on lip.

5. 40 m Flakes to ledge below and L of end of flake. L along ledge, then slab up L to hanging belay in crack.

6. 40 m Crack until it leans L, then slab to ledge.

7. 45 m Large boulder, then crack to easier ground.

Up to steepening, up then left to shale. 2).Right to choss corner, aid/free to large gear under roof, traverse left to arete. 3). Chimney.

Start: Weakness 3m right of TL.

Phaedra is an historical and adventurous climb, first envisioned by Rick White in 1969.

To gain access, proceed up the hiker's track, past Egg Rock, to a stand of Shea-oak, just below the Central Knoll:

East Face - Phaedra access topo

Start below the obvious rooflet halfway up the wall. Either belay on the ground or off a single ring on the ledge 10m off the ground.

★★ Phaedra 22 A1 - Phaedra - 1st belay

Cameron Fairbain,Simon Vos in ★★ Phaedra 22 A1 - Phaedra

1)45m 19 - Start up the slab past a peg, angling towards the finger crack, continue up this, heading towards the hanging flake on spaced but good gear. Pull over the flake up to a belay at a sloping ledge below the rooflet.

2)15m 20 - Clip the SS carrot (hard to spot) above the belay left of 3 rusty carrots. From the belay traverse left and up the shallow groove to the left side of the overhang. Traverse right under the roof past gear and 2 pitons. Pull through the roof, to the hanging belay at 2xRBs directly above.

★★ Phaedra 22 A1 - pitons under overlap

3)20m 19 - Proceed up the corner, to a crack and up to the base of the headwall for a hanging trad anchor. Below the bolt ladder.

4)35m 21 M1 - Climb up the old bolt ladder (4x) on the headwall to gain the slab (20/21) above past shallow gear to follow 3 carrot bolts (left trending) on the slab in a breath-taking position to the top & 2xRB belay in alcove on left.

Gear: small to medium cams, lots of wires, plates and a skyhook.

Rick & Paul pegged their way up p1 in 1969.

Rick White, Jeff Morgan & Ron Collett freed p1 (18 by their standards) & aided the whole route in October 1971.

Paul Hoskins & Joe Lynch freed p2 in 1983 (they would have freed p3, but Joe forgot his shoes.)

Fred From & Chris Frost freed p3 in 1983.

Jon Pearson came close to freeing p4 in the late 80s, and Glen Foley almost freed it in 2007.

1. 40m (22) As for Morgan Mortimer to the stance on top of a small block.

2. 40m (21) Gain the traverse weakness out right and continue until forced to drop down to the big ledge and tree to belay.

3. 40m (22) Start right of the tree. Up on small holds for a few metres before heading left a short way. Then up and right to the belay.

4. 40m (21) (21M1) Straight up on pockets before going to aid for 5 moves because of calcified rock. Continue up over chicken heads to thread belay.

5. 35m (21) Continue up groove and flake system then horizontally right to sapling. Follow the weakness upwards before being forced to move left around an awkward groove. Hanging stance on the left with rap anchor.

Has the distinction of being Australia's first 22.

Scramble/climb up the easy start next to ROI & onto the belay ledge. Starting in RH corner, trending left up weakness, then up, slightly right trending, into crack corner & up this to flaring off-width at top. Aid your way out to lip. then up over this to a good belay stance above.

Be wary of the original button bolts put in by Rick 47yrs ago; these are only 1" deep or so & hand-drilled.

Very rarely climbed, the route is rather chossy & vegetated.

(Estimates of freeing the downward flaring crack at the top start at around grade 27-28.)

Groove in middle of clean W Face. Bolts. Two rests.

On an isolated boulder about 100 metres downstream from Watts' Wall is an orange wall split by a finger crack. Up easily to start, through the roof and straight up the crack to the top. Several points of aid.

Eroded wall right of twin cracks. Start: Middle of wall with twin outcrops at base. Faintly marked "BB"

1. 15m Up through scoops with peg runner to bulge (BR). Through it to another smaller bulge. Up through it to gain ledge with trees.

2. 15m Left arete and wall with 5 bolts. Difficult start using BR for aid then climb easily to top.

Start: Start as for She.

1. 40m (21) As for She.

2. 40m (21 M1)

3. 35m (22)

4. 30m (22) As for the 5th last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

5. 35m (22) As for the 4th last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

6. 15m (19) Traverse L as for the 3rd last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

7. 21m (16) Chimneys as for the 2nd last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

8. 24m (14) Chimneys as for the last pitch of 'Ozymandias'.

Some of the roof blocks are suspect. Continue up the corner and exit under the roof, finishing straight up.

Start 20m right of C.

1. Crack then left to groove and bolt. Up passing 3 bolts to break.Left and over block to bolt. Traverse right to bolt then up.

AID REDUCTION: Climbed with a rest only on the rope at grade 22M0 in 1979 by Rod Young (belayed by Mark Moorhead).

Start up alcove placing small gear then through overlap. More easily to ledge and short chimney then belay from ridge.

Start: Start at thin crack 27m R of 'Tyrant', a few metres L of the original's aid bolts.

1. 40m (21)

2. 25m (21)

3. 33m (-)

4. 27m (- M6)

5. 25m (-)

6. 21m (16) As for the 2nd last pitch of 'Ozymandias'

7. 24m (14) As for the last pitch of 'Ozymandias'

1. 40m (21)

2. 27m (- M5)

3. 24m (-)

4. 21m (-)

5. 43m (-)

Start: Start as for Emperor, down and right of the obvious amazing Emperor chimney above.

1. 24m (15) As for Emperor.

2. 30m (21)

3. 40m (- M5)

4. 43m (- M5)

5. 12m (-)

6. 46m (-)

Corner then right to ledge, up to piton, to ledge. Belay in recess (can climb directly up corner). 2).Left to corner, up (aid) to piton below roof. 3). Traverse right to aid (take care), arete, around roof and up.

Start: 6m right of K.

The overhanging line.

1. 20m (25) Up past the overhanging block (crux) to gain the tree belay above.

2. 25m (20) Up the wall past a bolt and a series of chicken heads to hanging double bolt belay.

Good. If only the corner were 10 times as long.

Start: Start as for 'Strangeness and Charm'.

1. 40m (19) Up Strangeness to ledge and tree, follow it leftwards a few metres to scoop with wires. 'Galactic Wanderer' departs Strangeness here, and trends up and right past a bolt to a double bolt belay.

2. 20m (25) (Or 21M1) Up with care to a bolt at 8m, then slightly left to the overlap and more bolts. Either aid up and left or pull impossible looking moves to the base of the dihedral (the last bolt is hidden behind a bush). Bridge up the corner (wires) to the belay.

3. 50m (21) With care up and right to a bolt, over a terrifyingly poised and dangerous flake. Up past another two bolts and trend leftwards to the belay.

4. 50m (20) Continue a leftward trend aiming for the protruding grass tree above.

Follow chimney of Addicted to Placebo, then step right and up through overhanging crack.

Start at burnt out tree 20m R of 'The Ricoh Destruction Test'. Located directly below the lookout.

1. 22m (20) Trend R after the 3rd bolt. Up to U bolt & bolt hanging belay.

2. 12m (21) Trend L from belay then up through overhangs rejoicing in the two handed pocket. A few harder moves follow to get to the DBB. If there's no rope drag continue up pitch 3.

3. 10m (20) Traverse L staying just above overhang to U bolt & bolt hanging belay.

4. 20m (21 M1) Straight up slab, a few thin moves and pockets. Through the overhangs (aid last bolt of the overhang) then sketchy free moves to finish at U bolt & bolt hanging belay.

5. 25m (20) Follow bolts straight up to U bolt & bolt belay on ledge, the first on the route.

6. 14m (19) Thin start, follow bolts straight up to U bolt & bolt belay on ledge. Choose to link pitch 7 or not.

7. 5m (10) Up! To stand in the lookout and belay from the overhead beam would be perfect but contrary to QPWS policy.

Pull thru on gear on first pitch and go up escape gully to avoid choss at the end of pitch 8.

This route is about 3m left of John's Arete. Two moves of aid on bolts, then climb the finger/hand crack to the top.

1. 35m (21 M1)

2. 40m (21 M1)

Yuk.

Used to be marred by loose blocks leading to the roof but these have apparently been cleaned up a bit by a subsequent ascent. The rest point really should go.

Start: A steep wall with a flake-line in the centre.

1. 20m (-) Up the wall to the flake system and easily to good belay.

2. 30m (21 M0) Continue up the flake (loose rock) to the roof. Traverse 3 metres left to weakness in overhang, resting on a runner near the end of the traverse. Pull through the overhang and finish up the wall.

Aid climb for Premature Evacuation

Climbs right side of face, traverses left then charges straight up following vague hanging corner system.

Early repeats by Darragh/Peisker and McAuley.

Gear: large selection of pegs, mainly Blades, Arrows and Angles. Wires and cams, mainly small/med.

10 pitches 260m 20M7

Start: Right edge of wall on wide ledge. Start marked BG.

Apparently unrepeatable ?? But has been attempted and seen rescuing required ..? Certainly sounds interesting ... Up main Citadel corner then left .

Start: Abseil 50m down R from 'Fuhrer' Ledge to a shallow corner with grass tree and ledge at 12m.

1. 40m (-)

2. 27m (- M5)

3. 35m (20)

4. 8m (-) R to join 'Ozymandias' about 15m above Big Grassy. Finish up the last 5 and a half pitches of 'Ozymandias', or up 'Ozymandias Direct' or whatever else takes your fancy in the vicinity.

Slab 3 metres left of 'Pest Strip'

Wall to bush below cracked roof. 2). Aid roof then left to cave. a Free varient starts 3m right. 3). Traverse right, up crack to bush.

Start: Block 4m right of E.