Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | Gebiet | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
11 | ★★★ Agamemnon
A lovely cool chasm with a thrilling finish - a dramatic bridging sequence that is both run-out and exposed.
Erstbegehung: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie, 1964 | 40m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★★ Piccolo
1
11
18m
2
11
15m
Erstbegehung: Garry Kerkin & Ian Speedie, 1965 | 33m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★ Lucifer
Climb into the cave then up around to the right. Then follow the ringbolts to the top. First bolt is quite high so be careful. Erstbegehung: Sue Young & Catherine Eadie, 1994 | 15m | Nowra | ||
12 | ★★★ Bard
1
12
43m
2
12
12m
3
12
20m
4
12
15m
5
12
30m
Start at the R end of the base of the buttress.
Erstbegehung: Jim Newlands & Bruce Hocking, 1965 | 120m, 5 | Arapiles | ||
10 | ★★★ Eskimo Nell
Wonderful climbing up the right side of the Dunes Buttress, with virtually every pitch offering something of interest.
Erstbegehung: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & Laurie Beesley, 1968 | 130m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
10 | ★★ D Major
1
10
25m
2
10
25m
Named after the key that has "two sharp pitches". It is possible to escape from the first belay through the narrow cleft to the left between Piccolo Pipe and D Major Pipe. Start below the major line capped by a huge chockstone on the right wall of the D Major pipe.
Erstbegehung: Bruce Hocking & Mike Stone, 1964 | 50m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
9 | ★★ Conifer Crack
1
9
40m
2
9
40m
Very entertaining. Just be aware that at times you have to climb on large apparently detached blocks. Start 1 metre left of where the the big dead tree was until last Friday (i.e. left-hand crack on front of buttress).
Erstbegehung: Chris Davis & Ian Guild., 1964 | 80m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
9 | ★★★ Arachnus
1
8
40m
2
8
21m
3
9
14m
4
8
30m
A truly great climb up the middle of the Watchtower. Many variants are possible, especially in the middle section; yes they have already been climbed. Start up the right-hand of the two deep cracks at the base of The Watchtower. This is just left of the undercut section (Pumping), and 9m R of Watchtower Chimney.
Erstbegehung: Ian Speedie & Rob McQuilkin, 1964 | 110m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
12 | ★ Date Anatomy
Start at the "DA" mark. Great beginner lead. Up arete following 4 RBs to DBB. Erstbegehung: Marcus O'Mara, 1994 Erste freie Begeh.: Kevin Coleman, ross ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2005 | 16m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | ||
11 | ★★ Pedro
Start on the L side of the wall, beneath the dominant wide L-facing corner crack (or 2m L of it if you want an easier start). Up the line, tackling the final bulge whenever you're ready. Erstbegehung: Mike Stone, Ted Batty & Peter Jackson, 1965 | 36m | Arapiles | ||
12 | ★ Jug City
This is the right side of the arete and is the best easy route at Dams Cliff with wonderful ironstone jugs. Carrots all the way to the top which requires a rappel or a walk-off...or very long extended top rope rigging. Erstbegehung: J Boyton, 1994 | 15m, 3 | Blue Mountains | ||
9 | ★★★ Siren
1
4
25m
2
8
35m
3
8
35m
4
6
25m
5
9
25m
A wonderful long classic, climbed at the same time as Introductory Route. A remarkably well-conceived line, it culminates in a magnificent final corner. Start as for Introductory Route, on the right side of the Tiptoe Ridge buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.
From here either walk off left along terrace and scramble up little gully and wall to top or climb little right-facing corner just left of final belay. This is grade 11. Erstbegehung: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, 1963 | 150m, 5 | Arapiles | ||
12 | ★ Witches Cauldron Pitch 1
Start marked 'WC'. A hundred ways to get up this twin cracked, 3 sided chimney! A better access pitch to 'Plume Ledge' than SAW. Erstbegehung: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1969 | 12m | Frog Buttress | ||
11 | ★★ Dracula
1
11
25m
2
8
15m
Start 10m L of Minstrel Pinnacle, at the easy crack just L of a perched block. Can be lead in one pitch at the same grade if you leave the crack and head diagonally R about 8m below the top of p1. However this increases the risk of a grounder on rope stretch when the second is on the crux start.
Erstbegehung: Chris Baxter & Laurie Beesley, 1965 | 40m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
12 | ★ JAFKPR
Start 3m R of 'Gigolo'. Decent beginner climb, safely bolted. 4 RBs to chains. Erste freie Begeh.: Steve Kloske & Paul Pagoldh, 2013 | 13m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | ||
11 | ★★ Trapeze
Up the steep pillar to a bolt, then traverse left (crux), and finish up the easier climbing above. Start: At the pillar on the right side of the north face. Erstbegehung: Russell Judge & Don Bennett, 1964 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
12 | ★★ Until Death Do Us Part
2 metres right of Mañana. Long, easy, and popular. Erstbegehung: Cam O'Leary & Emma Newall, 12 Feb 2018 | 25m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ||
11 | ★★ Didgeridoo
Start as for Horn Piece on the Didgeridoo Pipe. Veers left from Horn Piece near the top, avoiding the bulging headwall. This climb originally started up a short crack up on the right side of the pipe but this is not much fun. Very sustained at the grade. Erstbegehung: Ian Speedie, Garry Kerkin & Mike Stone., 1965 | 35m | Arapiles | ||
10 | ★★★ Syrinx
1
10
20m
2
10
20m
3
10
35m
4
8
38m
5
9
12m
6
8
25m
7
7
20m
The first three pitches in particular offer superb climbing at the grade, while the final pitches provide an opportunity to explore those high balconies dominating the upper reaches of the cliff. The first two pitches are often combined. While the first part of the climb only spends a small amount of time in the chimney, some parties have mistakenly climbed the chimney in its entirety. This is not a club that you should aspire to join. Despite its enjoyable nature, there have been a number of serious injuries and a death on this climb. Here the start of the fourth pitch has been revised to reduce the danger of a long fall to the belay ledge.
Erstbegehung: Bruce Hocking & Mike Stone, 1964 | 170m, 7 | Arapiles | ||
10 | ★ Camelot
Slabby start right of Minimus then the corner-crack to the top. Erstbegehung: Phillip Stranger | 13m | Arapiles | ||
12 | ★★ The Eyrie
1
12
30m
2
12
15m
One of the best and most traveled easy routes in the mountains - great rock and exposure. Can be done as one big pitch with a couple of slings. Start on blocks at base of grey slab beneath Eyrie belay cave.
Erstbegehung: J Worral & H Ward, 1969 | 45m, 2, 3 | Blue Mountains | ||
12 | ★★★ Apline
Nice climbing following an impressive and distinctive feature. Start: At the base of the obvious aplite dyke sweeping the cliff. | 70m | Freycinet National Park | ||
11 | ★★★ Blockbuster
The easiest route to the summit of Bluff Major is pure class, providing delicate groove climbing in a grand position. Erstbegehung: 1964 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
12 | ★★ Panzer
Start directly below the turret perching high above the right end of the face, just in front of a large boulder.
Erstbegehung: Bruce Hocking & Mike Stone, 1965 | 95m, 3 | Arapiles | ||
10 | ★★ Mesa
Originally graded 6 via the ordinary chimney, and not highly rated. Now that the loose bits are gone, the start has been straightened out up the face off the boulder, and a lower-off has been added, this is one of the best easy grade routes in this part of Araps, with a wide variety of climbing. Start: Start off the top of the big boulder on the ledge. Erstbegehung: Graham Squire & Clive Parker, 1966 | 33m | Arapiles | ||
12 | ★★ Watchtower Chimney
1
12
45m
2
8
17m
3
12
31m
4
8
18m
A climb which gets the heart going no matter if you're on lead or seconding, with the first pitch, by itself, being a great line! Start: There are two deep cracks at the base of the Watchtower. Start at the left-hand crack.
Erstbegehung: Michael Stone, Ian Speedie & Garry Kerkin, 1965 | 110m, 4, 1 | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★ Gum Tree Wall
A popular incut slab. It is not recommended that you lead this route if only climbing grade 11, however do not top-rope directly through the anchor bolts. These anchors are getting noticeably worn through, as a result of such improper top-rope setups. Start lower down, pull onto the wall and towards the right side of the face. Up the eroded front-face arete to the 1st bolt. On the last move to the LO's look for the right-hand under bolder hold. Erstbegehung: Graeme Hill, Russell Chudleigh & T.Ogle | 10m, 4 | Mount Keira | ||
10 | ★ Hesitation
SSGICs to top-out with 2 bolt belay. Erstbegehung: J Boyton, 1994 | 15m | Blue Mountains | ||
10 | ★★ Grey Arete
Narrow rib at the L end of the lower cliff. Follow arete and climb L into a large crack and then continue R up the pinnacle to a DRB belay (25m rap into R gully). | 32m | Camels Hump | ||
11 | ★ Parson's Pleasure
A brilliant beginner's lead. Start at the obvious corner 3m R of EP. Up this line on excellent gear to the ledge. Rap chains are found here. Alternatively, you can keep going up the twin crack system at grade 15. Erstbegehung: Mike Meadows & Chris Meadows, 1969 | 10m | Frog Buttress | ||
10 | ★ SPQR
Inexplicably given 3 stars in previous guides. Start 1m R of Consul's arete. Up the R sloping crack then R up larger crack. Erstbegehung: Bernie Lyons, Steve Craddock & Gary Lovejoy, 1971 | 13m | Werribee Gorge | ||
11 | ★★ The Bishop
Start as for Revelations, Serpent, etc.
Erstbegehung: Garry Sudholz & Rod Sutherland, 1967 | 50m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★ Angular Crack
Blocky corner 3m left of TW. More popular as a rap line than a route, and probably rightly so. Erstbegehung: B Ryan, E Saxby & G Boyd | 25m | Blue Mountains | ||
11 | ★ Sweet Chariot
Far superior to SPQR. Good jamming and interesting moves all the way up the nice corner. The corner crack 1m R of 'Death Gate'. Erstbegehung: Norm Booth & Keith Lockwood, 1970 | 16m | Werribee Gorge | ||
10 | ★★ Serpent
Fantastic climbing. There is a variant start to the left at the painted initial "S" but the way described is better. Start below right-hand line up the sombre cleft, right of the initial "S".
Erstbegehung: Keith Lockwood, Geoff Uebergang & Gary Sudholz, 1967 | 43m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
10 | ★★ The Shroud
1
6
28m
2
10
22m
3
10
25m
4
8
43m
Another great outing up the front of the Pharos. Start 9 metres right of Hurricane Lamp Cracks at the foot of a deep crack.
Erstbegehung: Unknown, 1965 | 120m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
9 | ★ Holdup Line
Very nice. Start: Immediately right of 'Bullet Buttress'. A steep wall leads to a baby chimney, then up easily and step left into BB. Erstbegehung: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
12 | ★ Balthazar
The curving corner just left of Boulder Bridge. Erstbegehung: Iain Allan, John Griffiths & Terry Prime, 1971 | 13m | Morialta | ||
11 | ★ Go Back To Switzerland
On the left side of the arete. Plenty of bolts. Plenty of jugs. Good beginner lead climb. Erstbegehung: Stuart Sims, 1 Sep 2017 | 12m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ||
11 | ★ Transylvania
Quite good. The abseil route comes down the first pitch so watch out for traffic and don't monopolise the bolt anchors if the area is busy. Start at a wide crack just left of the block leaning against the cliff.
Erstbegehung: Keith Lockwood, Fiona Lockwood & Tim Lockwood, 1999 | 60m, 2, 1 | Arapiles | ||
12 | ★ Sheoak Corner
Start: Start from the olive tree. Up the open corner. Great introductory route. Erstbegehung: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton & Terry Prime, 1968 | 15m | Morialta | ||
12 | ★ Tie The Knot
Start on the face 2m right of 'Anthony's Arete'. Up for 2 bolts then step over the trench of 'Locris'. 4 more bolts to anchor. Erstbegehung: Phil Aarons, 2014 | 18m, 6 | Camels Hump | ||
11 | ★ Play School
Start behind jacaranda tree, 3m L of 'Moonlight Dilemma'. Marked "COD" (for 'Cloak Of Darkness'). Up ramp to high FH. Move on past 2 more FHs and run it out a little up to DBB shared with 'Mantlit'. Erstbegehung: Claudia Ferguson, Suzy Goldner & ross ferguson | 10m, 3 | Kangaroo Point | ||
9 | ★ Hope
Bottomless crack 3m R of Charity at the R crack. Erstbegehung: Rob Taylor & Jerry Grandage, 1968 | 16m | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★ Little Boxer Girl
Erstbegehung: 's, 1980 | 9m, 4 | Nowra | ||
12 | ★★ Dunes
1
30m
2
25m
3
12
22m
4
23m
This is the original version. Dunes Direct (described separately) is now the usual way to go. Start up the L-facing corner of a huge flake leaning against the east face of the buttress (crawl through behind the flake from the right or scramble easily up from below).
Erstbegehung: John Fahey & Peter Jackson, 1965 | 100m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
10 | ★ Sunday Afternoon Walk
Short but good. An interesting chimney & jamming problem featuring great protection throughout. A tricky move to exit adds spice to life! Erstbegehung: Alan Millband & Ron Collett | 12m | Frog Buttress | ||
10 | ★★ Xena
1
8
35m
2
9
22m
3
5
23m
4
10
30m
Start: Start at the right edge of the Pinnacle face below right-leaning flake/crack, about 10 metres right of 'Siren'.
Erstbegehung: Simon Mentz & Glenn Tempest | 110m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
10 | ★ Stonehinge
Start 1m L of 'Diagonal'. Marked "SH". Now retrobolted as an easy beginner's lead. First bolt is easy to reach but high and move near the top is hard for the grade so more a lead for competent climbers learning to lead rather than outright beginners. 3 RBs to DBB. Erstbegehung: Col Smithies & Malcolm Argent, 1986 Erste freie Begeh.: David Reeve, Ruth Reeve & Vincent Geisler, 2012 | 12m, 3 | Kangaroo Point | ||
12 | ★ Tobin Brothers
The cleanest section of wall 10m right of 'Locris'. Retrobolted in 2016 at the request of the first ascensionist. Rap station descent. Erstbegehung: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1988 | 18m, 5 | Camels Hump | ||
11 | ★ Lizard Procrastination
1
6
20m
2
11
20m
One of Araps' earliest routes. Start: Start beneath the front face (the one facing Dec Crag).
Erstbegehung: Mike Stone & Ian Guild, 1964 | 40m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
9 | ★ Sickle
Impossible to get lost on. Starts above the plaque on the north-west side of the crag. It's the obvious wide chimney, that narrows to a crack near the top. Erstbegehung: Garry Kerkin & Co, 1965 | 13m | Arapiles | ||
10 | ★ Long Bow
The groove with snap-o-licious flakes and a tricky finish. Start: 1m R of 'Working Class Hero'. Erstbegehung: Ed Briner & Norm Osborne, 1970 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
12 | ★★ Hurricane Lamp Cracks
1
12
25m
2
11
20m
3
11
20m
4
11
10m
5
8
43m
A fine old classic whose grade seems to be gradually creeping up. Used to be grade 8 back in the day. Many variations are possible. Start at the chimney 7 metres right of Five Fingered Mary.
Erstbegehung: Chris Baxter & Reg Williams, 1965 | 120m, 5 | Arapiles | ||
12 | ★ Something For Kate
A nice easy well protected climb for the beginners. The crux is getting established onto the wall just above the overlap at 1/3 height. 6RB's to 2RB anchor. Erstbegehung: Jason Atkinson / Ian Ezzy, 2002 | 15m, 6 | Nowra | ||
12 | ★ Orbital Tether
Start 2m L of 'Nebula'. Marked "OT". Climb straight up past 3 RBs to the DBB. Rebolted 2014. Erstbegehung: Heinz Buscher, 2010 | 10m, 3 | Mt Ngungun | ||
12 | ★ De Blanc
Easy climbing up a nice corner with lots of gear placements. Erstbegehung: Stan Manley, 1979 | 20m | Summerday Valley | ||
9 R | ★★★ Arachnus Variant (Minerva)
1
8
40m
2
8
12m
3
9 R
23m
4
8
30m
A very popular variant on Arachnus, but more serious because of the poorly protected section on pitch three.
Erstbegehung: Ivan Dainis & Gwenn Ward, 1965 | 110m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★ Nebula
Start 2m L of 'Star Dust'. Marked "N". Straight up past 3 RBs. New anchor over lip. Rebolted 2014. Erstbegehung: Heinz Buscher, 2010 | 10m, 3 | Mt Ngungun | ||
10 | ★ Lishenbak
Get here early for this one. Erstbegehung: J Lorinez, W Williams & B Blunt | 30m | Blue Mountains | ||
12 | ★ Bygone
The retrobolt eliminated serious fall potential, making this route a must for confident leaders at the grade ... but don't expect to be sewing it up with gear every metre. The southeast face of the Morfydd pinnacle faces the back of Fang Buttress. Start under this face. Erstbegehung: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1967 | 30m, 1 | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★ Kedumba Sisters
Start left of Kaboomba Brothers. Bouldery start to pleasant rambling. Lots of bolts. Stick clip the 2nd bolt if you’re at the grade. Erstbegehung: allie pepper & Emma Newall, 1 Mai 2018 | 12m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ||
10 | ★ Hanging Garden
Start 2 m R of 'Spooge In A Glove'. Climbs the L trending ramp to anchors (shared with 'Spooge In A Glove'). 3 RBs. Erste freie Begeh.: Paul Pagoldh & Steve Kloske, 2014 | 15m, 3 | Kangaroo Point | ||
10 | ★ Sweet Irish
1
9m
2
10
40m
Start: Wall to the right of OE.
Erstbegehung: L.Smith & B.Postill, 1967 | 49m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
10 | ★ Clytemnaestra Buttress
Start as for C.
Erstbegehung: Garry Kerkin, Ian Speedie & Mike Stone, 1965 | 45m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★ Working Class Hero
Short chimney then finish as for 'Stage Coach'. Start: Just right of SC. Erstbegehung: Bill Andrews, Ceri Law & Ian Wilson, 1980 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
12 | ★★ Philosopher's Stone
Climb the face past 2RB's then traverse right along the ledge past 2RB's to the blunt arête, now up the chimney past RB. Step left across the void and up to anchors. 5RB's to 2RB anchor. Be careful not to climb too high in the chimney or you'll find yourself above the anchor. Start: Start in the middle of the small face on the left hand side of the buttress. Erstbegehung: Rod Young, 2002 | 15m, 6 | Nowra | ||
12 | ★ Eye Bolt Route
Straight up centre of slab, 2m R of 'Twilight Groping'. 5 UBs to chains. | 10m, 5 | Waterworks Quarry | ||
11 | ★★ Phoenix
Takes the lovely right-facing corner on the righthand-side of 'Central Buttress' before joining 'The Eighth' on the final two pitches. Take a few long slings for thread runners.
Erstbegehung: Bruce Hocking & Ian Speedie, 1964 | 98m, 3 | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★★ Waxman
One of the best easy routes in the entire 'Grampians'. 'Fantastic' pro and steep buckety climbing. Start: Start 5m L of TC, at the base of the chimney. Erstbegehung: Stan Manley + 2, 1979 | 25m | Summerday Valley | ||
9 | ★ Cave Climb
Step R from cave to ledge. Then up corner or nose, both with poor pro. Start: Start as for 'Cricket Bats in a Box'. Erstbegehung: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
9 | ★★ Sunstroke
An easy, well-protected popular classic. Climbed on a searing summer's day, it was the first climb done on 'The Northern Slabs', taking the line of least resistance. Start at a slanting crack eight metres left of 'Equilibrium'.
This is often run together into two pitches (1/2, 3/4) rather than four. If you love slabs it's also possible to combine P2 and P3 by slabbing up as for Ephemeros, avoiding the short corner on P3. Erstbegehung: Peter Aitchison & Ian Raine, 1968 | 120m, 4 | Orroral area | ||
12 | ★ Witches Cauldron Pitch 2
The way the route originally finished. Start on the L of Plume Ledge. A brutal grunt up the horribly tight body chimney directly above pitch 1. There is not a lot of gear but it doesn't matter as you are so stuck in this thing that it would be very hard to come out anyway! A must do for all aspiring guardians of Frog ethics! Erstbegehung: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1969 | 18m | Frog Buttress | ||
11 | ★ The Bonatti Crack
Start: 7m left of the chopped steps in the descent gully. The obvious crack - good intro to jamming Erstbegehung: Walter Bonatti, 2000 | 8m | Blue Mountains | ||
11 | ★ Penny Dreadful
Start below thin seam on the first bit of orange rock left of the gully, 8 metres right of the initial A marking the start of The Archbishop.
Erstbegehung: Peter Watling, Andrew Bowman, Gen Corcoran & Phill Hay, 1973 | 40m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
10 | ★★★ Speigal's Overhang
1
10
30m
2
9
40m
3
10
20m
4
6
30m
Erstbegehung: Doug Hatt & Rodney Coles, 1963 | 120m, 4 | The Cathedral Range | ||
11 | ★ Clea
Up fist sized crack, trend left and up wide crack. Beginners sometimes bury themselves inside it. Erstbegehung: Iain Allan & John Griffiths, 1971 | 18m | Morialta | ||
11 | ★ Bob's Breakfast
Left hand route on the Kid's Slab just right of the arete. Erschliesser: B Jung Erstbegehung: J Reay, 2012 | 8m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ||
11 | ★ Armageddon
The sustained dog-leg crack to a steep, juggy finish. Erstbegehung: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1967 | 13m | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★ Uncle Udfuddy
Erstbegehung: 's, 1980 | 15m | Nowra | ||
9 | ★ Jezebel
On top of elevated block, in front of the vertical crack. An excellent route for beginners. Step across onto the wall and right to BR. Head straight up the wall (small cam and BR) to rounded top out. Double RB belay / rap station. | 11m, 2 | Barrenjoey | ||
9 | ★ Keyboard
Deep crack on left side of Conifer Crack buttress, in the gully. Take some large gear. Erstbegehung: Clive Parker & Chris Baxter., 1968 | 25m | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★ Aeroguard
Erstbegehung: Wayne Mieth, ross ferguson & Darrin Carter, 2005 | 14m, 4 | Mt Beerwah | ||
9 | ★ Anthony's Arete
Start on the arete right of 'Locris', and follow it up the slab. Take trad gear for the top if you'd be uncomfortable with easy climbing through a 4-5m runout between the last bolt and the anchors - can step around to front of buttress and clip 5th bolt of OFTM now (Dec 2016) Erstbegehung: Liam Aarons, 2014 | 20m, 4 | Camels Hump | ||
9 | ★★ The Eighth
1
8
24m
2
9
25m
3
9
30m
4
8
20m
Erstbegehung: Steve Craddock, Bob Craddock & Robyn Lewis (via a harder pitch 2 variant), 1963 | 99m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
9 | ★ Return of the Fush
Well protected line on left side of buttress to the right of Grey Arete. Climb easily up the rib with the big trench to the wall at top on left with the shallow double corner. Good wires in the left corner then up to jugs and around right to follow the diagonal right leading line to the top and DRB. FA soloed. Erstbegehung: Chris Baxter, Andrew Bowman & Mike Law, 1983 | 20m | Camels Hump | ||
11 | ★ Big Sham
| 14m | Morialta | ||
9 | ★★ Beau Geste
1
9
50m
2
9
13m
3
9
18m
4
9
25m
5
7
30m
A great adventure. Start below major chimney on left side of cliff. Note that numerous variants are possible, and have been done, from the middle of pitch 3 to the terrace at the end of pitch 4.
| 140m, 5 | Arapiles | ||
10 | ★ Three Sheets to the Wind
Another worthwhile easy climb that adds to the range of options for beginner leaders at this crag. 5 bolts to a DBB Erstbegehung: Mel Rowland & Stuart Sims, 2 Sep 2018 | 12m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ||
11 | ★ Honk On
Up the flake - bridge, layback, jamb - take your pick! Erschliesser: B Jung Erstbegehung: J Reay, 2012 | 10m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ||
9 | ★ The Parson's Nose
Good rock. Takes the prominent prow 30 metres down left of Mason's Apron. There's a small, chipped mark near the ground.
Erstbegehung: Peter Watling, Andrew Bowman, Glen Corcoran & Phil Hay, 1973 | 35m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★★ The Archbishop
Start at the painted initial 'A'.
Erstbegehung: Geoff Uebergang & Keith Lockwood, 1967 | 48m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
12 | ★ Ballyhoo
| 25m | Freycinet National Park | ||
9 | ★ The Deacon
The crack at the left end of the wall has a tricky move at half-height. Start: Start 5 metres left of "Deacon's Dilemma". Erstbegehung: Murray Taylor & Rod Sutherland, 1967 | 12m | Arapiles | ||
12 | ★ Rover
Nice jamming up the central crack Erste freie Begeh.: Max Keating & Karen Keating, 1992 | 10m | Mt Alexander | ||
9 | ★ J Meister
First climb on the right of the descent gully. Josie climbs her age on her first project. Erschliesser: B Jung Erstbegehung: Josie McCullogh, 2012 | 8m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ||
12 | ★ Snap
Erstbegehung: R.Vining, 1974 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ||
10 | ★★ Black Orpheus
1
7
30m
2
10
25m
3
4
25m
4
10
32m
5
3
23m
A great, easy 135m multipitch route although pro can be pretty sparse on p2&3 and non-existant on p5. A good initiation to what to expect from Tibro multipitches. Can be done in three pitches with 60m rope. Start: About 50m L of Candy Mountain at big corner/gully, behind a rock apron. Marked 'BO' (very faint). ★★ Black Orpheus 10 - "BO"
Erstbegehung: Sid Tanner & Andrew Spiers, 1969 | 140m, 5 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
11 | ★ Sexy Love Clam
Start up Sexy Love Slot and then move R onto the slab passing 3 bolts to the chains. | 10m, 4 | Mitcham Quarries | ||
12 | ★★ Scarab
Descent: Follow foot pad to descent gully and rap anchor above 'Island Cruise' | 59m, 3, 1 | Bundaleer Area |