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Whomping Willow Guide

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A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Laurence Judd pamelalansbury Ben Dickson Ziomuv Thananthorn Suriyasenee Marv Harrison Schultz

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Whomping Willow 23 routes in Field

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Saisonalität

Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: -34.618430, 139.003648

Beschreibung

Named after the very old tree in the area which resembles the whomping willow in Harry Potter. A small but good collection of boulders close to the road.

Einschränkungen

Note:
This area is closed on days of extreme fire danger. Do not drive your vehicle into the Native Forest Reserve if gate is unlocked. Park outside the gate, ensuring the road and gate are not blocked to Forestry SA traffic. Overnight camping and campfires are not permitted at any time. The Reserve is open from sunrise to sunset every day. Do not feed the wildlife and stick to marked trails as much as is possible. Scrub off all tick marks before leaving and pack out all rubbish.
übernommen von The Enchanted Forest

Zustieg

Easiest access for this area is to keep following Heggies Range Rd until it turns into Brownes Rd. Park as for the Khastersuhl Track of The Heysen Trail and walk in from there. Area can be seen from the road just before the parking area. All boulders located less than 100m from the road.

1.1. Granite Track Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.619321, 139.004261

Beschreibung

The First Climbable Boulder from the Granite Track.

Zustieg

Can be seen from the road, about a 30m walk in.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Traverse With No Name

Sit Start Matched on big Sidepull. Move Up and left slopers and incuts to a good edge to the left and a crack towards the top. Top out.

Erstbegehung: Laurence Judd, Jul 2021

V3 Boulder 3m
2 So, You think you can smear Open Project

Stand Start in centre of boulder with RH Side pull and LH angled sidepull. Move up via crimps to good holds at the top.

Boulder 3m
3 Hopping over Chad

Stand start on good LH Side pull and RH tiny crimp. High starding feet to avoid the large rock. Head up and right to big juggy top out.

Erstbegehung: Petey, 2021

V0 Boulder 3m

1.2. Storm Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.618996, 139.003274

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Quiet Storm

Signature line of the area and possibly the best lowball in the forest. Sit start with right hand on upturned small edge and left hand low on left sloping arete. Climb the sloping arete and top out.

Erstbegehung: pamelalansbury, 28 Okt 2020

V5 Boulder 2m

1.3. Booty Boulder 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.618643, 139.003359

Beschreibung

The boulder at the back of the main cluster of boulders on the hill.

Zustieg

Approach from the Granite track to the south approx 160m North of the Granite Track.

Geschichte

Once climbed and forgotten by early establishers, sending Apricot Booty, found and established further in 2021.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Apricot Booty

Climb the layback finger crack to the very top. Mantle. Spicy exit given the fall zone.

Erstbegehung: Pete, 2015

V3 Boulder 4m
2 Big D

Stand Start with LH on sloping arete and RH on average undercling under lip or the lip itself. Bust out right to the juggy top side of the D feature and head up and left to top out.

Erstbegehung: Laurence Judd, Jul 2021

V3 Boulder 3m
3 Only God Can Judd Me

Sit start to Big D. Good LH crimp and RH low low undercling -V4. If you want a contrived harder variant start with same left hand crimp and same right undercling of the stand- goes at 5 points.

Erschliesser: Laurence Judd

Erstbegehung: Thananthorn Suriyasenee, 15 Aug 2021

V4 BoulderProjekt 4m
4 Up The Channel

Sit Start on Large incut channel on the Right Hands Side of the "D". Head up and left along the jug channel and top out as per Big D.

Erstbegehung: Laurence Judd, Jul 2021

V1 Boulder 3m
5 Back of the D

Stand start on big feature seemingly unattached to the boulder, rest assured it is. Move up the slab via good crimps and edges to the top. This is also the easiest down climb for the boulder.

Erstbegehung: Laurence Judd, Jul 2021

VB Boulder 4m
6 Judd judy

Sit start low with both hands on obvious right hand sidepull, smear feet, stand up and span into left hand incut on top side of boulder. Top out to the right side of the boulder. There are some intermediate crimps for those short on span.

Erstbegehung: Harrison Schultz, 15 Aug 2021

Erschliesser: Ziomuv, 15 Aug 2021

V1 Boulder

1.4. Panic Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.618833, 139.003286

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Don't Panic

Sit start on low LH edge and small pocket for right hand. Spring up and grab the seam on the left-hand side of arete and continue up. Fall is a potentially a bit awkward

Erstbegehung: Ben Dickson, 25 Okt 2020

V2 Boulder 4m
2 Jugless Adams

Sit-start on the sloping edge where a jug once lived. Reach your way up the seam on right-side of the arete. A pad on the boulder to the right is advisable.

Erstbegehung: Ben Dickson, 25 Okt 2020

V3 Boulder 4m

1.5. Conscripted Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.618810, 139.003251

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Diagonal Sit.

Sit Start with good RH side pull and LH on sloping arete. Make a move into the start of the crack and finish as for Diagonal Crack Line.

Erstbegehung: Laurence Judd

V0+ Boulder 3m
2 Diagonal crack line

Sit or crouch start in prominent diagonal crack. Follow it up to the horn at far right-hand side

Erstbegehung: 25 Okt 2020

V0 Boulder 3m
3 The Conscripted Boulderer

Stand start in bottom corner of the diagonal crack. Climb slightly up that to gain access to the ledge, then make a committing move to head straight up the very blank looking slab

Erstbegehung: Ben Dickson, 25 Okt 2020

V1 Boulder 3m

1.6. Demolition Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.618815, 139.003227

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Walking Demolishion Service

Sit start with hands on the left-most flat ledge. Head directly upwards via the poor sloper.

Erstbegehung: Ben Dickson, 25 Okt 2020

V3 Boulder 3m
2 Warm Me Up

Sit start on the edge as for WDS. Follow the ledges to the right, then top out via the weakness to the right

Erstbegehung: 25 Okt 2020

V0 Boulder 3m
3 Of Course

Sit start on the unreasonably low hold, akward-but-not-too-hard-if-you-fit move up to the juggy rail, and top out diagonally-right

Erstbegehung: Ben Dickson, 25 Okt 2020

V2 Boulder 3m
4 Crystal Cannon

Sit or crouch start on the large chunk of quartz at right-hand side of boulder. Follow the rising seam all the way to the top

Erstbegehung: Ben Dickson, 25 Okt 2020

V0 Boulder 4m

1.7. Step Up Slab 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.618920, 139.003443

Beschreibung

The slab that sits right under the grandfather tree in the centre of the boulder field.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Step Up 2: The Streets

Step Up start on large footers to grab sloping arete and good right hander. Move up and top out.

Erstbegehung: Petey

V0 Boulder 2m
2 Step Up

Start match on the high sloping edge and climb the centre of the slab.

Erstbegehung: pamelalansbury, 2021

V1 Boulder 2m
3 Step Up 3

Sit start matched on good sloping sidepull. Head up to a good edge and sloping pinch on the arete, step up and climb the right hand side of the slab to the top.

Erstbegehung: pamelalansbury, 2021

V0 Boulder 2m

1.8. Turtle Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.618890, 139.003287

Beschreibung

The Turtle Shaped boulder next to 'Conscripted Boulder'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Turtle Traverse

Start laying down under the boulder matched on the poor sloper. Make a hard move to the top then traverse it right and around the corner. Keep traversing and when you are at the good sidepull manntle the boulder. A lowball in every sense of the word but packs in quite a few moves!

Erstbegehung: pamelalansbury, 2021

V4 Boulder

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
VB Back of the D Boulder 4m 1.3. Booty Boulder
V0 Hopping over Chad Boulder 3m 1.1. Granite Track Boulder
Diagonal crack line Boulder 3m 1.5. Conscripted Boulder
Crystal Cannon Boulder 4m 1.6. Demolition Boulder
Warm Me Up Boulder 3m 1.6. Demolition Boulder
Step Up 2: The Streets Boulder 2m 1.7. Step Up Slab
Step Up 3 Boulder 2m 1.7. Step Up Slab
V0+ Diagonal Sit. Boulder 3m 1.5. Conscripted Boulder
V1 Judd judy Boulder 1.3. Booty Boulder
Up The Channel Boulder 3m 1.3. Booty Boulder
The Conscripted Boulderer Boulder 3m 1.5. Conscripted Boulder
Step Up Boulder 2m 1.7. Step Up Slab
V2 Don't Panic Boulder 4m 1.4. Panic Boulder
Of Course Boulder 3m 1.6. Demolition Boulder
V3 The Traverse With No Name Boulder 3m 1.1. Granite Track Boulder
Apricot Booty Boulder 4m 1.3. Booty Boulder
Big D Boulder 3m 1.3. Booty Boulder
Jugless Adams Boulder 4m 1.4. Panic Boulder
Walking Demolishion Service Boulder 3m 1.6. Demolition Boulder
V4 Only God Can Judd Me BoulderProjekt 4m 1.3. Booty Boulder
Turtle Traverse Boulder 1.8. Turtle Boulder
V5 Quiet Storm Boulder 2m 1.2. Storm Boulder
? So, You think you can smear Open Project Boulder 3m 1.1. Granite Track Boulder
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