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Routen in The Junkyard Cave

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Zeigt alle 46 Routen.

Schwierigkeitsgrad Route Stil Beliebtheit
19 Grand Theft Auto

Fun steep jugs, with a interesting crux. First route you come to after walking down the descent. Start on the R of the scoop follow the bolts up L onto easy ground. Head straight up the jugs to finish.

Erstbegehung: Marek Brock-Tasler & equipped by Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport 15m, 7
24 Not Very Ladylike

A direct start to LGG. Some bouldery moves into the top of LGG 2m L of Lady Ger Ger Up the easy first section then work hard to get to the slopey break. Finish up LGGs jugs!

This used to be 23 but a couple of holds broke soon after the first ascent, still goes but it is considered to be hard 24.

Erste freie Begeh.: Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport 12m, 8
22 Lady Ger-Ger

Punchy start, punchy finish. Use the hook at the 3rd bolt when cleaning to avoid swinging into the tree..

Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers, 2012

Sport 15m, 6
25 Short Sharp Loud

Bouldery steep climbing. At L end of first sandy cave reached on the walk down. Follow the line of rings out the L end of the cave, to a sting in the tail finish

Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, 2012

Sport 8m, 5
26 Chic Chic Boom Chic

Rad steep pocket pulling start up to a great mix of jugs and slopes. Now finishes directly off the rest via another small boulder.

Erste freie Begeh.: Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport 7
24 Communal Spoon

Locate the "Spoon Bolt". Up and jug blissfully along the the flake to harder finish out left. Also has a direct finish at the same grade.

Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers, 2013

Sport 15m
23 Quick Hit, Quick fix

Short and punchy, left of SS. Link into CS for the full deal

Erschliesser: Jason Lammers

Erste freie Begeh.: Ben Jenga, 25 Jul 2015

Sport 6m
23 Check out my Junk

Short R to L steep mini roof boulder route. Start at the RB in the roof 2m R of SC Boulder up and L to big jug in SC. Cross this and keep going L to join Campbelltown Cookup and finish at its loweroff.

Erstbegehung: Marek Brock-Tasler, 2013

Sport 8m, 5
21 Sin City

Mini juggy roof, nowra South Central style! 2m R of CC. The R hand mini route through the lower cave/roof.

Erstbegehung: Marek Brock-Tasler & equipped by Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport 6m, 6
Open Project

Line of bolts above Sin City that links into TFDC. There are holds but it looks like a very slim chance without some rapid erosion, and I don't climb 35ish ha ha.

Erschliesser: Matt Brooks, 2012

SportProjekt 15m, 6
27 Full Dole Cheque

Climb Bogan Direct to the rest jug then climb a harder boulder secquence left to gain great jug line. Wicked rock and a funky sting in the tail. Could be 28??

Erstbegehung: Ben JengA & Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport 10
26 Bogan Direct

Rad little bouldering route. Starts off the ledge accessed 6m to the right. Wicked steep fridge hugging moves to a jug then more punchy boulder moves.

Erste freie Begeh.: Ben Jenga & Andy Richardson, 2012

Sport 7m, 7
27 Feral Kitten

A large dynamic move see you started on this bouldery rig, once your a couple of bolts up craft a rest and jug to the top.

Erstbegehung: Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport
28 Cougars

One of the hardest routes in sydney!!

Super steep bouldering on bullet hard stone with some amazing scoops and holds. Right trending line of orange pockets in the centre of the crag.

Erste freie Begeh.: Matt Brooks & Ben JengA, 2012

Sport 15m, 10
28 Battle Cat

Wow - Mega line. The King line of the crag. Start as for Cougars. Follow it to the seam, traverse R and up to join 50SOMD at the nose and finish at its anchors for now.... Sustained junkyard awesomeness

The Coneheads of the south west.

Erschliesser: Matt Brooks, 2012

Erste freie Begeh.: Ben Jenga, 25 Jul 2015

Sport 35m, 14
30 Tiger King

The full shebang!! Matt’s originally mega line, set free and sent by that strong young Cossey lad. Starts up Cougars, across Battle Cat, bit of a rest on the 50 Shades ledge then bang out the top boulder of Kids with Knives then hold that pump to finish topped out above the Junkyard Dog.

Erstbegehung: Ben Cossey, 24 Aug 2023

Sport
27 Leaking White Lady

Slopey, hard and steep! See the Grafiti for where the name came from!!!! Start as for JYD From the 5RB of JYD traverse L on the slopes staying low to the prow. Go L around this and direct up into the top of FSOMD. Classic slopes testpiece.

Erstbegehung: Matt Brooks, 2013

Sport 30m, 15
27 Kids with Knives

A hard V6/7 boulder that links fifty shades or battle cat into the top of the junkyard extension.. Hard to grade, will need a repeat. Bring your long arms.

Erschliesser: Matt Brooks

Erste freie Begeh.: Ben Jenga, 15 Jul 2017

Sport 8m
23 Fifty Shades of Mt Druitt.

Climb the start of Junkyard dog and then break left under the roof, around the arete, left some more and up. Best to second to clean or back jump.

Erste freie Begeh.: Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport 25m
24 The Junkyard Dog

Absolute classic steep climbing on Grampians quality rock. Slabby scoop then up seam crack to stance. Swing right on incredible jugs then back left on more jugs to anchor. This is a shared start with 3 other routes so get it dial.

Erstbegehung: Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport 17m
26 Junkyard Dog Extension

Power up the overhung prow above the first anchors. One of the best steep lines in Sydney, if not NSW. A couple of long draws in the roof and the start help the rope drag.

Erste freie Begeh.: Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport 25m
23 Sixteen and Pregnant

Bouldery and steep as like most stuff here. Follow JYD to the 5th RB. Skip this and boulder diagonally R up the steep wall to the lower off and L end of the slopey ledge.

Erste freie Begeh.: Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport 15m, 9
25 16 year old pregnant crack whore

A link of 16 and Pregnant into Smack Crack, finishing at the anchors for BBBL.

Erstbegehung: Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport 25m, 2, 12
22 Smack Crack

Bolted roof crack on right side of main wall. Mantle up a series of shelves for three bolts then solve the tricky roof crack section (reach helps) and finish up massive jugs out left to anchors upside down in roof. No jamming required.

Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith & Ben Jenga, 2012

Sport 15m, 6
24 Beep Beep Big Love.

Two easy mantels to start then big moves between big holds. Punchy climbing. Perhaps a bit harder if your short or can't dyno. RIP Jay

Erste freie Begeh.: Ben JengA, 2012

Sport 17m, 8
25 Manufactured Meat

Big roof route! Starts on the far right side of the main cave, just before the scramble up to the right side ledge. Boulder over three tricky shelves to lie down rest underneath massive roof. Crux moves across this 4m ceiling on enriched pockets to pumpy finish. Back-jump to clean.

Erschliesser: Neil Monteith, 2012

Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013

Sport 15m, 8
27 Bastard Child

Powerful bouldering into BBBL, with a cool iron cross move. 1m L of LGs on the same ledge at a RB above the scramble up from the lower level. Head up diagonally L to jugs crossing Neils project. Continue L and leave the jugs via the iron cross L to the flake. Move up L from this to join BBBL at the crux. Follow this to the anchors.

Erste freie Begeh.: Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport 20m, 10
V4 Facey

Roof boulder problem on pockets just right of Bastard Child. Roofy, facey then deathy.

Boulder 6m
25 Cabramatta girls love you long time

Start as for PGPO. Hit the lip and keep going left all the way to the anchors of BBBL. Pumpy with big holds but bring campus arms or be good at heel and toe hooks.

Erschliesser: Matt Brooks, 2013

Erstbegehung: Matt Brooks, 2013

Sport 15m, 8
23 Penriff girls put out.

Climbs liverpool girls then traverses left along the lip of the roof past two bolts to finish at neil project anchors. Back jump or second to clean.

Erste freie Begeh.: Ben Jenga & Edwin Emmerick, 2012

Sport 7
18 Liverpool Girls

Funky arête to slab just outside the cave left of negative funk.

Erste freie Begeh.: Glen Norrel, 2012

Sport 14m
Dirty Arse Crack

The ultra dirty arse crack left of H. Lower offs in the roof and boltless holes drilled. Looks like a classic

Erschliesser: Random Dude

SportProjekt 8m
25 The Removalists

The vertical slab left of NF to nice big roof and then over the top to anchors.

Erstbegehung: Gino Lagazio, Elliot Kals & Jason Lammers, 25 Aug 2018

Sport 15m, 7
23 Negative Removalists

Link Up. Start up Negative Funk and finish on the roof of The Removalists. Great climb avoiding the crimps of TR but enjoying the interesting start and the pumpy roof. You can have a rest and even lay before the roof.

Erstbegehung: Rohan Shah, 1 Jan 2020

Sport 15m, 6
21 Negative Funk

Steep climbing on excellent rock. Corner to start then right along high break under roof to final cruxy mantle.

Erste freie Begeh.: Ben JengA, 2012

Sport 15m, 7
20 Early Funk

Link Up. Start up NF and finish on the crimps of EB. Probably better than both of them, its avoids the awkward moves on both climbs..

Erstbegehung: Link Up

Sport 15m
23 Early Bird

Starts just right of corner. Up bulging wall to low break, swing right across this and up to stance. Finish up wall on edges to shared anchor with left route.

Erstbegehung: Neil Monteith, Ben Jenga & Paul Thomson, 2012

Sport 15m, 6
24 Stroke My Mullet

Climb Scrambletown to the 2nd RB then swing left out onto the steep prow. Move left around the arete and up onto the nice top face.

Erstbegehung: Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport 15m, 8
21 Scrambletown

Slopey start to nice crack. Awesome orange rock !

Erstbegehung: Jason Lammers, 2012

Sport 10m, 4
23 Tracksuit Time Warp

Starts up S, traveses right past funky pockets and finishes at SB anchours.

Erste freie Begeh.: Matt Brooks, 2012

Sport 12m
24 Strange Behaviour

Mantel the start and walk along the ledge to the base of the climb. Get your belayer to unclip the first draw when your established on the next two draws. Finish at the double U bolts above the big heuco. Left random bolt still a project.

Strange Behaviour by Feed Me and Tasha Baxter.

Erste freie Begeh.: Ben JengA & Edwin Emmerick, 2012

Sport 15m, 7
23 Junk In Ya Trunk

Roof jugging to a mantle! Down and R of SB. Access this either by scrambling across the slopey slab or through the hole belowTracksuit Timewarp. Climb the slab then R through the roof. Mantle the lip and crank away up the nice head wall!

Erste freie Begeh.: 2013

Erstbegehung: Matt Brooks, 2013

Sport 15m, 7
15 Western Redneck

Left hand line lower slab.

Erste freie Begeh.: Jessica Shaham, 2012

Sport 10m, 3
19 Oasis Babes

Boulder the bolted slab. 3m R of WR Some thin bouldery moves directly up the middle of the slab

Erste freie Begeh.: Jessica Shaham, 2012

Sport 10m, 5
16 Foxy Miss Foxy

Fun little layback. At the obvious flake at the R end of the lower slab. Straight up and into the obvious layback and up to the lower off on the main ledge

Erste freie Begeh.: Glen Norrell, 2012

Sport 10m, 4
Open Project 2

Hard Slab past an overlap if you can be bother cleaning it.

SportProjekt

Zeigt alle 46 Routen.

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