Routen in North East für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Left hand corner of alcove. Corner crack to offwidth.

The right hand corner of the alcove. Good jamming and bridging.

LH crack line

RH corner and crack. Climb over from ledge and belay on top of detached pillar.

the center crack in the little recess at the bottom of the gully

Start - About 10 m right of 'The Donger' at the obvious splitter handcrack.

1. 25m - Jam the crack, passing several small ledges. Belay on the biggest one where the hand-sized crack continues in a corner. Can be linked with pitch 2 if you have enough gear.

2. 25m - Jam and layback the corner up to a stance on a small ledge where the crack thins. Place some good wires, take a deep breath, and launch up the face and arete on the right until its possible to step back left to a large chossy ledge with a giant flake below twin cracks.

3. 40m - Jam and bridge the twin cracks for about 15m, then carefully negotiate the choss to the top. This pitch is much longer than the guidebook suggests.

Alternate finish to Ass, Gas or Grass

To the right of Golconda.

1. Climb L edge and move out onto face.

2. Overhanging on huge holds. finish up ridge

Steep face climbing with jugs all the way to the top, good protection.

An alternative first pitch to Ticker which goes through the overhangs

DBB

Steep start into corner

The right line in need of a major work to reclaim it from the vegetation.

Stand start on left side of face at letterbox slot. Up to lip, traversing R to finish at triangle cut out/highest point of boulder. Sit start seems possible?

An obvious and worthwhile girdle traverse that follows a natural line of holds across the chessboard from right to left. Start up 'Like Nectar for Butterflies'. At the second bolt, traverse left to the third bolt of 'Environmental decay', then keep traversing left all the way to the last bolt of 'Decree of Love', and finish at the chains.

A rising traverse starting on the far left on excellent holds.

The first route at Hillwood. Nice face climbing up shallow groove on the right hand end.

Central crack

Right traversing route right of centipede parking

Short route on far L featuring twin seams. DBB

Variant start to SSB following the slabby RH lay-away crack. Single U-bolt, linking in with SSB at its 3rd fixed-hanger. Continue to the top.

Single bolt to natural gear. R around corner from SSF

Climbs the boulder perched on the slab opposite SSF. Can apparently clip the single bolt from the notch to the R. Single bolt belay on top.

On next cliff R. Up LHS of front prow following white streak to ledge. Turn rooflet + slab to DBB

RH line on front prow. Tricky start exiting groove, to meandering slabbing. A long draw or two could be useful. DBB

Start at the back of the pinnacle, traverse to the flake and up it. Bolted lower off.

Crack to the right of the finger crack.

Thin hand crack on far left

Top rope route. Juggy face between Cue Ball Head and Burgundy Sky. Some hollow sounding flakes at 2/3rds height.

Obvious flake crack on the right hand end of the buttress. DBB at top.

A novel mini-adventure route. Abseil from trees below the small cave on the upper tier to water level. Set up a hanging belay with your toes an inch or two above the water, pull the rope down without dropping it in the river, then climb the hand crack back to the ledge.

Further upstream, starting on a ledge about two meters above the water. Finger crack to roof and hand crack. A nice looking route

First pillar on the L with finger/hand crack.

The main crackline just left of the gully. Can be split at the grassy ledge. Takes a variety of gear from finger sizes to #4 camalot. Tree belay.

Classic twin parallel crack system with an undercut start. DBB

Central crack line up the front of the buttress. DBB. big gear useful.

Vegetated easy angled jam crack on LHS

Hand crack directly beside the track. Belay from pillars above the hole (#1, #2 cams). The large block seems solid enough. DBB

Located uphill of the lower cliff. Hand crack on left. DBB

The crack that forms the right side of The Great Willy. Offwidth easing to hands.

Obvious offwidth/squeeze chimney.

Left side of chimney.

Handcrack

Steep hand crack upstream of buttress finishes at tree, use rap chains of Fridge Lifting 101

Offwidth to the left of Sitting Bull. Good laybacking on sharp edges.

Corner crack with nice jams and lots of face holds too. Great gear the whole way. DBB lower-off.

Nice climbing around the corner crack, up to ledge with tree and DBB. Continue up the splitter fist crack to chimney above. Finish up the face of the boulder (natural belay). Scramble off back of boulder, and rap from DBB located on upstream platform (35m to ground, 15m to Sign of the Times anchor).

Good jam crack.

Mixed face and jam crack 3m to right of New Jersey Turnpike

Located upstream and uphill from the main Petrebond Crags. Up blocky chimney on R into proud corner.