Routen in The You Yangs für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

2m right of BSHC. Two carrot bolts.

Starting on the right side of the blunt arête, climb up on small incut holds.

Horrendous fist jam start to nice lay backing. Barely worth the effort really.

Sit start matched on pocket. Pull right to undercling, then up.

Sit start down in void with Wattle tree growing out of it. Nice, steep arete climbing with cracks

On eastern face of boulder. Up ramp to left arete, follow the arete all the way to the top. Slab it up!

Stand start between Sendero and Hacer up on flakes and crimps to an awkward top out

Stand start with an easy foothold, up along the crack to an easy pinch for the top out.

Start as for Track Crack, but after getting established on face, go straight up and mantle to top.

Takes the left side of the slab. 1FH and 3 RB

Replaced the remaining carrots with RB 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

This route climbs the pinnacle mentioned in the access description that is used to locate Rockwell Road Pinnacles from the track. Climb the south-east arete facing the western walking track. Be careful down climbing.

Corner just L of The Slot Machine.

3 m R of Kangaroo Court. Start on boulder, up past BR, R to arete then up Gallows Humour. 2 BR

Seam to Right of Tarred and Feathered. Wires and 1BR. Belay from blocks 10 m behind top.

2m R of Caught Redhanded, up to break, BR, seam, BR

Obvious finger crack in the middle of the wall right on the side of the walking track.

Wall direct via RB to the FH on Bill and Ben. Finish up this to DRB anchor. (old DBB will be pulled once the new anchor has been tested)

Replaced the old rusty BR with RP fixed hanger and new anchor added 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

5mts left of Fig Lleaf, up the black water-streak past 2 spaced carrot bolts, then head left into the groove to finish up the short chimney.

25m to right of SplitRock.Slab on small features

Up the left of the slab on flake and thin seam. Carefully top out between slightly chossy bulges.

Sit. Crimp, jug, mantle.

-No longer available due to rockfall.

As for Tourbus, but finish after mantling

Same start as directionless except follow the crack to the left and use the jug to top out.

Up crack in south face to break, then up onto steep slab past BR to top. DBB

Trad - of the no gear variety! Scramble further up the Lauren gully to a small open area, continuing straight ahead (eastwards) to the NARN block. NARN is the right hand arete.

Lower angled slab a couple of metres R.

AKA Razor's edge. Edges L of the nose; a couple of lines possible.

R arete of boulder, with nice knob handhold. There used to be a small boulder in front of this, which has disappeared.

1. Starts as for "Short Vertical Crack" (or variant up "Urinal Wall Sport Traverse"-Which is safer!) and then traverses left to the first bolt of "Pissing on a Friend". Complete first pitch as for "Urinal Wall Sport Traverse"

2. Starts off ledge at "Dunny Door". Climbs diagonally left and up to a placement in the flake on "The Overflow" and then on "Lizard's Lair". Continue to bolts on "Busting for Relief" and "Harpic". More placements and then to the bolt of "Twyford Adamant". Finish up "Reversing Santa". Flake, Trad Belay.

This climb has been downgraded from 19 to 16 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

Midway tween Pissing on a Friend and Around the Bend. Up past BR to cams in centre of the overlap flake.

Ridiculously run out to the first bolt. If you’re sane, you can protect the lower moves by placing trad protection in the crack of Royal Auto.

3m R of the corner of Opossum. Up the face staying R of the corner on some really nice rock past 4FHs. Rebolted May 2022 with permission of the FA.

* Sustained & enjoyable. One of the best face routes in the YY. Start 4 meters right of 'Oppossum' to wander up the middle of the face on solid tint edges. Rebolted May 2022.

Start just right of Question of Ethics moving R on the sloping ramp to a FH. Follow the face just L of the arete past 3 more FH's. Can be started from directly below the first FH for a slightly more challenging start.

Rebolted May 2022 with permission of the FA.

The short and hard finger crack directly opposite Broken Dreams

Good climbing up the rounded R arete of Silver Knight Buttress. Some reckon it's a soft tick. Up the sickle-shaped crack to the arete, then blast up on tiny nubbins past a couple of thin diagonal dykes and a horizontal break to good jugs. Three FHs to Trad Anchor as for Silver Knight.

A fun direct finish to Blue Skys from Grey. May have been toproped previously - almost a sport route. 1 x Med/Large Cam required for the break.

Climb Blue Sky’s from Grey and then continue directly over the overlap (medium cams) via a thin move or two and straight up the top wall past 2FHs.

From the back of Gravel Pit Tor a large block can be seen about 50m to the East.

Just R of the arete facing Gravel Pit Tor is a very thin crack. Follow this up the face.

Up to FH 3m right of Boneseed then right to arete, overlap

The feature offwidth splitting front of boulder.

Up thin crack at left end of face, step right and up slab past 3 bolts.

This appears to be a repeat of Diary of an Infidel.

Lovely location on a unique rock. Shaded from the sun.

Drag your ass of the ground and climb up the face (the black streak and concave section) to an easy mantle. Some fun moves.

Use the tree to get down.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvoGFz1kEns

3m R of the crack

Starts up Pedagogue, but traverses up an into AP.

2 BR's up edges / flakes from the lowest point. Slightly L past first bolt.

Major line in the middle of the crag. Difficult hand crack and flake.

Sit start on the low holds of the overhanging double arete. Work your way to the top, then use the other boulder for hands and feet. Top out the left boulder you started on. Really flows, fun problem.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0pSDAshlko8

Short Diagonal crack on the West-facing side

Diagonal crack on lower side - finishing straight up over branch.

Sit start on top of the rock where to ground levels out. Make an easy pull up using the small uncut holds on the seam and the face holds. Traverse the face of the slightly overhanging boulder to the very left side and top out.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_bEW8dMS6Q

Step onto the route from small boulder. Up and to the left to top out. Bit highball. Be careful down climbing or jumping off.

Still to be climbed from the ground and possible sit start if the flakes hold.

2 BR. Although a sport climb; take a size #1 cam to protect the 2nd at the top.... the belay is a long way across.

Short left leaning crack on the right side of the First Tramway Boulder. Eases after the start.

Obvious line leading right across the 2nd Tramway boulder starting on top the large detached flake. Follow the line past 3 FH. After the 3rd, head up to the DBB.

Takes a small seam 2m Left of The Greyline Bus 2BR and run out at the top

Best looking line here. Shallow water runnel with 2 BR

3m right of the Wattle. Steep slab past 2 BR

Left arete passing 2 BR.

Off boulder 2m R of RBYE, then up to BR.

Starts up the big flake of TTGBITN, then L and up via 2 BR's. Possibly slightly easier that the flake is gone, but still about 21.

Seam 10m up and L of Night Moves to ramp, then L. BR.

As for AMD to break, then trav left on flake.

Corner crack in middle of block. The guide gives it a star.

Black streak 2m R of BM. BR. The guide gives it a star

Arete 3m R of TtW (BR) to mantel (BR). Seam. The guide gives it two stars.

Climb to first bolt of Steep and Leaningful, then right and up arete passing second bolt.

Starts left of Blood on the Tracks. Straight up face passing ring bolt and direct to top next to arete.