Begehungen in Victoria als Sport von Josh Ellis

First go felt impossible with my old beta being probably 10 degrees warmer than last time I tried it! Tried Matthew Follent beta which was definitely better and managed a clean top rope lap, just out of beans and skin by the time I figured it out. Maybe next year! 🤷‍♀️

Loathe to log this. After a mentally shaky weekend of not really sending anything this one was my “sure thing”. Had done all the moves before and felt very doable. Backed off putting the clips in as my wrist felt tweaky on a sloper. Taped it up, went again DID THE CRUX chill as, got a no hands knee bar mid traverse, then just chickened out right before the chains. Didn’t have the beans third go. Something about this climb always results in a shite trip.

Had ambitions to do “Velvet Goldmine” but after a shaky warmup on “Terminal Insomnia” I wasn’t really up for it. Decided to retry the moves on this as Ben had it up. Did all the moves which was nice, but didn’t have a red point burn, was feeling too shaky.

Went up twice, once to put the draws on for Caroline Chang, then again to clean. Wish I hadn’t! Got totally flash pumped on the onsight found a seeping pocket, rope fell down a hole, etc. The second go didn’t feel any more enjoyable tbh! No idea why this one gets the stars, least favourite route at “VDL”.

Linked the hard section on the way down on the first go. Clean run second, out of beans by third. Reckon I need one top rope go to dial the moves then go for the lead. Held off as I don’t feel like I can clip the third “independent” draw but I think I just gotta’ go for it.

Warmup/cleaning. Pretty tricky couple of moves for the grade I reckon.

Went up to suss how the moves feel on a 29… they felt bloody nails. 😂 Couldn’t do any of the “hard” moves, think 29 is still a ways off for me.

Bring your steel finger and toes caps for this one! Took a while to figure out, a fair bit of lichen and no chalk to be seen. But actually pretty good climbing. Fairly spicy even with the extra bolt!

Early morning session with gsmizz after my evening punt the night before. gsmizz pointed out the foot I missed the night before, getting me through the crux. Made some new noises I haven’t made before when I managed the top!

Rocked up at Araps with less then an hour of light left, run up to the flight deck for a burn. Pulled on just as it was getting dark, felt cruisy up to the crux, got the crimps, could not found my feet, punted off. Would’ve been nice to get that and “L’essence” in a day but maybe that was just greedy. 🤷‍♀️

Nice to put this one away. Tried it years ago, was super intimidated, couldn’t pull crux and probably wouldn’t have done the run out if I could get there. Felt hard getting the draws on, but knowing where to go makes a huge difference, doubt many people onsight this one. Great value route!

But if a pumpy warmup! Very satisfying onsight, got pretty close to pumping off!

Was gonna’ try for the onny but someone was on it while I was belaying next door. Fun route with some cool sequences down low.

Warm up lap.

I’m pretty sure I used to onsight 23’s like 2 weeks ago… 😂

Nice route with a spicy finish. Great on-site by Caroline Chang! 🤟

Bloody shocker of a day for me by this point, fell off the 21, couldn’t do the dyno on the 26 and then fell off this. Cool moves but absolute bag of sand, unless I’m missing something it felt maybe a grade “easier” then the 26!

Stuck the bottom boulder second try but the dyno is just so unlikely for me. I defo got closer, but it took like 100x tries and way to much skin. Fair play to Chris Martinez sticking it first try!

Totally missed the key hold through the crux, did some IFC world championships bouldering 360 dyno beta instead, obviously fell off! Lowered to the ground when I spotted the hold and did the rest. 🤦‍♂️ Great flash by Caroline Chang

Crux is getting on the route without falling into the void!

Another day, another punt! Didn’t have any expectations given my recent shoulder injury but actually felt surprisingly good. Third go I actually hit the “final” hold but didn’t quite grasp it properly!

Repeat warm up.

Can’t claim the flash as I’ve done both the linked climbs.

Not sure how I haven’t logged this before. Done many a time. 🤷‍♀️

Went to get the draws down, thought it’d be a nice rewarm up as it’s a lovely flowey route, climbed it the worst I’ve ever done it, got super pumped! Idk

Went into the first go so confident I was gonna’ send, lined up perfectly for dead point and then somehow still ended up dangling! 🤷‍♀️ Went to lower tier to climb some over stuff as the block was fairly busy, came back up later for round two. Bit tired but still determined, lined up again and somehow the rope kinda’ got tangled round my knee right at the crux, faffed and fell. Tried the move again and same thing happed! Reminder to self: longer draw on the far left bolt otherwise you get tangled!

Cool link up! Boogie is the route that just keeps on giving! Thought it might go second go but the dead point I’m doing is a little bit low percentage. I’ll be back!

So close second go! Good training I guess…

Don’t think I’ve tried this before… Got a move in it!

Thought it’d be nice to send something at Ravine for a change! Jordan Edwards first 25!

Warm up

I’m fucking loathed to even log this. Can’t believe I’ve waited this long to fucking punt off this, what a bellend.

Warm up.

Tried it, sussed the crux beta (high right foot kneebar scum) thought oh yea “that’ll go next go” then fucking wrecked myself putting up "media puzzle" and climbing it like a wanker. Had terminal pump before even getting on but the weather was miserable so just wanted to get the gear down. Didn’t send. Cleaned in pissing rain. All round worst day I’ve climbing over had in probably over a year. Well done to Tommathy swift for getting his first 26 though.

Warm up. Actually quite techy at the top.

Pretty fingery and actually quite good. Probably not the best condies for it today was a bit humid. Only one go as it started raining.

Warm up lap. Did the “direct” start this time.

Couple of cool moves, shame it wasn’t longer!

Similar experience to lots of other routes at Macedon, incredibly hard to read on the onsight, fell off, faffed around with a bunch of impossibly hard sequences until finding the “right” way, making it feel several grades easier. It’s really it’s own style at the hump!

Probably one of the best routes at Macedon! Started on the smaller holds (to the right) at the bottom and avoided the arête to the left at the top for the “original experience” although I clipped all the draws! Not really sure it felt 23 at any point I probably wouldn’t argue with 22 though? Idk lovely route either way!

Felt cruisy today!

Fucking nails!

Cool V5 on a rope! One go to figure it out, one go to fall off like a punter. Should have sent it got to the "jug" and tried a silly stem when I should have oulled through. Should go next time.

Felt cruisy with some skin and the right beta! Being too cold to feel my fingers was probably advantageous too!

Warm up!