Routen in Melbourne and Surrounds für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Easier right-left

Panel 1.

Up and down circuit, panels 3, 4, 5.

Panels 4, 5 from right

Panel 7 from right

Yellow and maroon holds

Green blobby holds

Sit start with jugs, top out on right side of face using a variety of shark tooth holds along the top.

Sit start. Awkward pull off the ground from the arete to the good holds on the left face.

Sit start. Left face of the nose direct

Sit start as for LB5, and then lip traverse to the tip of the nose before mantling.

Sit start. Up right to positive holds on the nose then straight up.

Sit start. Same start as LB6, but move to the good pocket right side of the positive rail on the nose then up

Stupid way to attract the police and get training here banned! #traverse

This route uses only the drill holes and the mono pockets, any feet, start on the left then climb over the missing block with the protruding pipe before downclimbing to the end

This route uses only the drill holes and the mono pockets, any feet, start on the right then climb over the missing block with the protruding pipe before downclimbing to the end

This route consists only uses the drill holes formed by the plug and feathers masonry technique and the ledge where the stone wall meets the bricks for hand holds. There's only 3 drill holes on this route with the last one being a fairly marginal hold. There's a fairly large distance between the last drill hold and the ledge at the top of the wall that may require a bit of dynamic movement (even if you are tall) so bring a mat if you want to try this route. Also be careful with where you place your hands on the uppermost ledge at the end of this route as there's exposed metal on the ledge at the top that can be a hazard. If you decide to go for a dynamic move at the end make sure to mark out a safe spot for your hands first before going for the move.

Traverse right to left using all holds available except those in the slime (crux).

Corner to corner ending after the crux slippery calcified stuff. Avoid the green streak for hands and feet at the start as usual.

Sit start, stay on arete, adjacent boulders on left are out. Fun moves.

Go up to the top of Scramble, campus across the connecting ledge and exit as for Crack (V0 without the campus)

Sit start and go straight up. Long moves on jugs.

Start at the break and head up straight up.

SDS Narrow face between the crack of Laid Low With Ipi and arete of Laying Low With Nivo offers a few nice moves

Same SDS as The Sydenham Thrutch but exit early onto face/arrete. Lower block is out.

SDS Direct up right hand arete. Beware the obvious drop off to the right

SDS with hands matched in break. Go straight up the arete and mantle.

Fun eliminate. SDS with hands on loose block (or use the slopey holds above) and don't use feet below the break. Traverse left around the arrete and mantle.

SDS right side of the arete

SDS wide crack with great fist and hand jamBs. Easier than graded if you can jamB.

SDS Rounded nose

Same start as SW5, but once established on the arete traverse the horizontal right above the shelf topping out at its right side.

Standing start. Up left thin crack. Has been done from a SDS down and right as per Under The Nose with no change to the grade.

Standing start. Up the right thin crack. Has been done from a SDS down and right as per Under The Nose with no change to the grade.

Start at RHS of horizontal break. Traverse left past hairline vertical crack, then up.

SDS Right side of the arete

Up slab between two cracks. Use only the wall, not cracks.

SDS Up curving thin finger crack

SDS short crack. Crux getting up off the sit. Pleasant easy problem from the stand. Shelf on the right is out.

Starting at the chalked up large hold a few metres from the left end, traverse right. After the pedestrian sign, climb diagonally up to reach the top of the bridge at the corner. Carefully downclimb the corner.

Enjoyable water level traverse that can be followed most of the way around the point keeping hands below the top the whole way around. Best to finish once you make it to the rusty relic on a shelf about 1m above the water. Note that the water gets progressively shallower the further east you go!

From part way along Clay foundation, up via the side pull.

Start on head height crimps in chest deep water under the slightest roof sticking out. Go up using the arete and good side pull on left. Go straight up using slots under the lip. Avoid using triangle ledge at the top of the arete for both hands and feet including for top out.

The finger crack on the left. Climb crack until tree then traverse off to the left

The hand crack to the left. Using face holds is discouraged. Climb up then traverse off to the left

Compression. This climb goes up the centre of the face and uses the right arete.

SDS starting left hand on the low block and right hand on undercling pinch. Move up to crimp or jug (original start hold) and then out to the right arete. Slap your way up to good top out minding the prickly branches.

Eliminate massive low jug sticking out on the right.

Lower start added 15 June, 2021. Makes the climb more punchy. Probably about the same grade.

SDS in the break at the right arete. Traverse low to the dish jug on the left and top out through Dan's Donut.

A double mantel! Absolute madness!

SDS on the excellent block. Press up, mantel, reach high, then mantel!

Sit start on the left arete. Compress up the arete using to disconcerting top out

Sit start on right side of face. Climb up using thin seam to lay back to disconcerting top out

Right of Zoom. Straight up face using both aretes.

For the unashamed crackaholics. Straight up in comfortable hand jams

Start at the left of the face, ascend at 1 o'clock to three finger pocket near top, then continue to peak.

Up deep off width to top

Hand jam up LH steepening hand crack to an exciting exit at top.

Hand jam RH crack to top.

Start left of “Travelator” under the bulge, heading straight up the arete. SDS to squeeze the most out.

Starting on the right side of the blunt arête, climb up on small incut holds.

Horrendous fist jam start to nice lay backing. Barely worth the effort really.

Sit start matched on pocket. Pull right to undercling, then up.

Sit start down in void with Wattle tree growing out of it. Nice, steep arete climbing with cracks

On eastern face of boulder. Up ramp to left arete, follow the arete all the way to the top. Slab it up!

Stand start between Sendero and Hacer up on flakes and crimps to an awkward top out

Stand start with an easy foothold, up along the crack to an easy pinch for the top out.

Start as for Track Crack, but after getting established on face, go straight up and mantle to top.

Takes the left side of the slab. 1FH and 3 RB

Replaced the remaining carrots with RB 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

This route climbs the pinnacle mentioned in the access description that is used to locate Rockwell Road Pinnacles from the track. Climb the south-east arete facing the western walking track. Be careful down climbing.

Corner just L of The Slot Machine.

Seam to Right of Tarred and Feathered. Wires and 1BR. Belay from blocks 10 m behind top.

2m R of Caught Redhanded, up to break, BR, seam, BR

Wall direct via RB to the FH on Bill and Ben. Finish up this to DRB anchor. (old DBB will be pulled once the new anchor has been tested)

Replaced the old rusty BR with RP fixed hanger and new anchor added 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

25m to right of SplitRock.Slab on small features

Up the left of the slab on flake and thin seam. Carefully top out between slightly chossy bulges.

Sit. Crimp, jug, mantle.

-No longer available due to rockfall.

As for Tourbus, but finish after mantling

Same start as directionless except follow the crack to the left and use the jug to top out.

Up crack in south face to break, then up onto steep slab past BR to top. DBB

Trad - of the no gear variety! Scramble further up the Lauren gully to a small open area, continuing straight ahead (eastwards) to the NARN block. NARN is the right hand arete.

Lower angled slab a couple of metres R.

AKA Razor's edge. Edges L of the nose; a couple of lines possible.

R arete of boulder, with nice knob handhold. There used to be a small boulder in front of this, which has disappeared.

This climb has been downgraded from 19 to 16 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

Midway tween Pissing on a Friend and Around the Bend. Up past BR to cams in centre of the overlap flake.

3m R of the corner of Opossum. Up the face staying R of the corner on some really nice rock past 4FHs. Rebolted May 2022 with permission of the FA.

The short and hard finger crack directly opposite Broken Dreams