Begehungen in North East haben Beta

Very hot in the sun. Take lots of #3 camalots. A great lead by Ian around the crux roof and final slab to finish.

terrifying but so worth it. 4 pitches to top of pinnacle, 9 hours car to car. so much of the first two pitches was offwidth for me, which was definitely character-building.

Full value 17! I've never had to work so hard on a multi, pretty much sustained climbing the whole way. As echoed by the previous comments make sure you have ankle protection.

This route has everything! Hand jams thin and loose, fists, hand/fist, off width, tight worm chimney, strange 3D stemming, scary slab traverse, tight finger jams with a crux so tight I could only fit in a pinky.

Most pitches felt much harder than the grade listed. If you can't jam, you won't make it 😂

Next time, bring a #5 (and/or more than two #4's) and more than three #3's. We took five #2, five #1, four green, four purple plus doubles down to .2 and we used it all! Really no need for wires.

tried to lead, placed the merlin but bailed when the chimney turned into an offwidth and i didn't really know how to proceed. brutal.

Wow. Seriously walks the line between type 2 and type 3 fun. Was feeling super into it until entering the marathon that was pitch 3. About 50 metres into the pitch I was feeling some pretty horrendous pain in my feet. The crack thins out and I couldn’t take the pain so I placed a nut and pulled through onto the mantle. It sucked to fail at the very last move but that’s how it goes sometimes haha. Feeling defeated I pulled on a few cams in the off width too. A mega classic. Will no doubt make the journey back to hopefully finish off pitch 3 in proper style

Water washed texture of the slab is quite different to other parts of Buffalo. Still stuck reasonably well.

Finished off with the 5c variant. Be warned that it only has two bolts for pro.

Both pitches

Accidentally got on this instead of Edge of Pleasure. Didn't take long to realise our mistake. Heinously hard friction slabbing on untrafficked, somewhat mossy, somewhat snappy rock. Getting up this clean is about as hard as I can climb in the style.

The stupid screw-in sheathed caving bolts on the lower pitch unscrew themselves due to the fixed hangers (one only had about 3 turns of thread left from falling out). I didn't particularly enjoy having to hand-screw in the bolts (not the nuts, the bloody BOLTS) on lead.

may have done some of these 5 years ago

Great problem! Happy to get the onsight.

Decided to get another climb in despite the sunburnt forearms. Could do with a bit more traffic to clean it up a bit. Was climbing grass and thick lichen towards the top

Soo good and long, lead P2

With Claire

Climbed into 2nd Pitch from The Establishment. Makes for a very direct line with excellent climging.

Not too hard at the grade, but bloody bold. All the hardest moves are done with the sole protection of a very marginal small cam placed upside down (at half-clim-height) by the time you clip the first useful carrot. More techy and committing than the left arete, but not even slightly streno. The climb gets progressively dirty and mossy as you get higher.

Lead first crux pitch

Awesome route! Maybe not the BEST trad route I've done in Australia but certainly up there! Calling this an aid route really is a disservice. It's like calling sport routes with a Batman start "aid" routes. I'd change it to "trad" just to get more people on it.

Pitch 1 is really special. Pitches 2 & 3 are both really good. Pitch 4 has a fun few moves before it gives up and becomes a not unexpectedly dirty top out. My only real criticism would be it's a bit mossy in a couple of spots but nothing that really interfered with the climbing.

Awesome moves

Probably the best of the Buffalo multis I've done? Linked most of P1 and P2 into a mega pitch (Chris belayed at the bolts for Flair 15m up P1, rather than the hanging belay). The cruxy finale to P1 is quite desperate! P2 is all-time mega (and quite sandbagged) up the overhanging flakes, culminating in committing moves switching between incipient cracks; P3 is pretty cool but the slabby step-across seemed really hard. P4 I'd lead before when I did Status Quo, and is kinda thrutchy horrible-ness.

Fun traverse, but needs traffic and cleaning. Feels to be more of a V2

Warm up, pretty spoicy

What a way to get back into slab climbing! Beautiful line, tackling the face with pure, consistent slab. Great welcome to Mt Buffalo

Description says it all - if only it were longer

First two pitches are absolute class! A nice sting in the tail of P1 to keep you on your toes.

Pro tip: if you graciously let your partner take the glory of the first pitch, you get to avoid the hanging bolt belay.

Bloody awesome climb, First pitch is MEGA!!! Traverse is scary on the only M6? Bolt. Only last pitch is a bit mossy but nice.

Blank wall

Hard start, exciting finish

Slipped a bit at the crux but was able to hold on and recover. Very height dependant. If you are 6 foot+ its a grade easier. Soft at 22.

with Cate

nice thin bits down low on the bolts to easy crack finish

nice corner. easy i think. maybe people can't jam?

With Kevin, great route, much easier than 22 if you're tall.

two nice pitches, the second one being clasic Buffalo climbing

with Cate

nice n sustained!

Very thin slab climbing.

Nice jugs and then a delicate reachy move onto more jugs.

Fantastic climb, balancy start, but solid all the way after that. OS Lead on preplaced gear.

Beautiful finger crack.

Awesome cracking line! I was shitting my pant the whole time!