Routen in Victoria für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

Fantastic climbing on gorgeous peachy rock, many climbers' favourite 19 at Araps. Chains at top (32m). Videos

Not given many stars until recently, this is now widely considered one of the finest 19s at Arapiles. It used to be 20 so don't expect a soft touch. Start under the prominent line up the south face of the pinnacle. Rap anchor at the top.

Has steadily increased it's reputation over the years, and is now considered by some to be one of the best 19s at Arapiles. Start in the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, on the Piccolo side. Approach by going L around the back of D Minor Pinnacle. The logs and chain in the gully are for erosion control; they are not designed or to be used as belay anchors.

The first and best route at the crag, borderline 3 stars? Unique for the 'Grampians' - climbs and looks more like limestone. Great sustained climbing on water polished jugs. Surprisingly overhung. Located in the middle of the south face, directly in front of small pine tree. When it gets tough around the 5th bolt dog-leg left to find the better holds. Seeps for several days after heavy rain.

Grey slightly overhung gritty wall climbing. This climb is a very good warm-up for harder routes in the area at it is pumpy with no sharp holds. Originally a trad route.

Sustained steep face climbing, one of the better routes on the cliff? Starts about 5m left of "The Riddler". Delicately up the wall, traversing up and left on good break past 3rd bolt to good clipping stance at 4th bolt. Straight up past 5th bolt to rap station.

The steep and sustained L-facing corner. Great.

A superb rising traverse with some very balancy moves which also gives the seconder a good mental workout.

Shares the start and most of pitch one, with 'Lamplighter'.

1. 27m (10) Follow the ramp of "Lamplighter" until it runs out. Up to ledge.

2. 25m (18) Step up right and onto right wall. Mantleshelf then traverse right past a bolt into "Kingdom Come", then up to belay on small ledge.

3. 15m (19) Traverse right, and up the diagonal crack to ledge. It is possible to move up from the traverse to the bolt on "Give me Convenience..." at about the same grade but it adds nothing to the route.

Rap back to ground from DRRB at top of P3.

Start: Left-most route on the main, orange face.

Head up right side of block on left then through weakness in overlap

Pull through overhanging corner to bomber locks in corner crack and continue up ramp to pedestal and juggy wall on left.

Start: Start just right of 'Tarzan'.

Great dogleg crack up smooth wall at the left end of the cliff.

Tricky start, eases as you go. From a sit start on the finger jug, climb up the juggy wall.

A fine balancy slab which is harder for the vertically challenged. Start 1m R of Diagonal Crack.

The thin crack. After the crack eases the easiest finish is on the L, but pulling direct over the little overlap and up the short wall above is better.

Starts 2m right of flake.Climb straight up right of bolts.Nice face climbing.

If you enjoyed Golden Fleece, you want to do this too. A little bit more tricky. Start 1m R of Golden Fleece. Up the little pillar - or step into it after a move or two. Up the thin cracks to join GF at the ledge, then up and slightly right.

Long wall with a delightful flake start. 6 u-bolts and one FH to chain lower-off.

Some people find this quite hard - but it's not 20!

Start 5m R of Squeakeasy.

Polished face to pedestal, L into the line which is quite steep over the bulge, then the corner. At 25m walk 5m L to Squeakeasy's rap anchor.

The subtle weakness in frictional rock 20m up left from Deeply Techo. Lots of gear if you can hang out to place it; small wires are very handy. Start 20m up L from DT. Now has a rap anchor.

Later became Tony's Route (the present direct line), though 90% of it had been climbed in the 1960's as 'The Desired'.

Start: Start below the pitch 1 corner of 'Orpheus'.

1. 45m (19) Directly up into the cruxy corner, then continue steeply up direct crack to a small stance.

2. 30m (14) Much easier and less good climbing takes you to the Bard Terrace. Solo off left from here or climb the last pitch of Bard or the wide corner.

Sit start on the slot.

A neat route featuring a classy and thought-provoking first pitch.

Start: Start just right of the chimney splitting this face (sundance).

1. 40m (19) Up the slab to the crack and good gear and a funky mantle to bolt (2nd bolt spins in the hole but can be backed up with a pink Camp tricam). Step right (pocket, small profile cam or tricam) and slabby moves lead to more good climbing and another bolt and on to ledge and belay bolt.

2. 27m (17) Move right to the prominent nose, bridge past its left side and up to ledge. Move 6 metres right to belay below tiny, right-facing corner.

3. 22m (17 R) Up the little corner with marginal gear until it fades and continue boldly up wall. Technical bulge leads to 'Rotten Row'.

4. 48m (14) Up easy flake behind conifer then steeply up to horizontal break at 20 metres. Short left-leading corner then veer left and up.

Fantastic route. It's amazing to find such a sustained, steep route at this grade. It's a toss-up whether it's 18 or 19. The main line on the pocketed wall. The wall, slightly right through bulge and continue up. In the upper section, climb just right of the bolts between clips. From last bolt to anchors, easiest is straight up from bolt and step back right to anchors, best is up steeper rock on right directly to anchor.

Sit start on input flakes just right of Bad Call. Move up left to slopey features and up on jugs.

Start 30m right of Locris. Scramble 2m to ledge and up big right leaning flake then straight up the guts of the impressive red overhang.

Sit stat with a sidepull/undercling and climb straight up the face to top out.

Quite popular.

Start: Start at the juggy crack R of BN.

A good, pumpy route with some suspect rock.

Start on the left wall at the back of the chimney.

Bridge up the chimney (purists may decline to bridge) to start then pull into steep left-leaning groove.

More steep pocket-pulling leads to a finish crack.

Start: Just right of "Disparate Housewives"

A much better quality finish, though you have to pretend the block on the R isn't there.

Start 2m R of 'Conscientious Pontius'.

The finger crack with forks at the top. Take the L fork.

A nice climb making its way up the twin cracks right of Fly By Night Gully.

Originally started at Chemistry Class but that is pretty hard. Select guide says to start from a convenient tree just downhill from the entrance to "Fly By Night" gully but this start is hard, poorly protected and accessing it risks erosion to the track. Better to start at the arete on the outside edge of "Fly By Night" gully.

Gain the ledge, then up left-hand crack for a few moves then move into steep right-hand crack and go up.

Committing slab climbing, but a highly enjoyable route. Unusual style for 'Arapiles'. Approach by scrambling up the easy corner.

Start: On the left hand wall, up the gully just before the chimney.

1 metre left of Stoplight Arete, sit start in crack and layback up corner. Fun.

Starts on the chockstone down in the slot. Very pleasant right trending wall climbing with a punchy pumpy finish.

Cruxy. Rebolted by the FA 2020. Start L of Black Magic as for 'Powder Hound'. Up short wall past 3 RBs to anchor to the R of 'Wee Ripper'.

Sit start on the right side of the low break and climb up the line of jugs.

Stand start on the left of slab. Follow the flake to the top.

Surprisingly steep climbing. Take the time to make sure that the protection in the horizontal breaks is secure as you are going to come very close to the ground, and the block, if something pulls. Start from the big block right of the overhung area.

Great sustained climbing with great protection the whole way. Start a few metres right of Electra. Can lower off with 65m rope.

Climb brittle edges with minimal protection to the horizontal break (optional gear if you choose to head diagonally right from the initial jug to a shallow groove). Surmount the flake above the bulge, after which a few more moves will take you to the ledge.

Originally 18 - it's still solid at 19! The Pauligks' aid wasn't actually at the crux - theirs was an awesome effort for 1966. The appealing crack on the L side of the beautiful orange front face of the buttress. Follow crack till it finishes then step R and up Careful of the rock up higher.

In a similar style to Hendrix, it can be amusing to watch pumped leaders lose form and begin to flail for the top. You can go straight up - off a shallow midsize cam, or diagonally left to finish as for Hendrix (better and better protected). Start 3m R of Hendrix at easy crack.

Sit start on the left side of the low juggy break. Make a big move to the slopey pocket and top out up big holds.

Do you remember these guys eh?

Great variety of moves and user friendly.

Start: Start at undercut just right of mookie cracks, and begin climbing out to the right before swinging back.

Right of Split Images, starts in the gully of Oxbow. Straight up to RB, then follow Split Images using its 2 RBs to the overhang. Clip the RB above the lip and move left under the overhang and pull awkwardly into Poxbow. Then into the overhanging headwall using flakes, clip last RB and finish on the Poxbow ledge.

SDS. side pulls to jugs

A great novelty warm-up. The route climbs the 'backbone' scoopy arete of the uphill side of the pillar past four FH's. Getting past the ever growing tree could be the crux! Rap off double rings.

A long, absorbing lead. The top wall - which is the crux - has a loose flake you have to pull on above a small wire that won't keep you off the ledge. Beware! Start on the south arete of the buttress, a metre left of the shallow orange corner of Turquoise. Over bulge and follow weakness up left to ledge. Move right and up corner, crossing Turquoise then straight up middle of right wall, bold to get established, then short hand-crack.

A solid, intimidating lead with just enough protection. Very impressive for 1967.

Fantastic climbing from start to finish. Double ropes or lots of slings help, especially if you want to run some pitches together. The corners are often fused but can be protected fairly well with cams from 00-4 (especially 0.4-0.75) and loads of wires.

Start: Left facing flake-finger crack 10 metres right of RIP Corner.

1. 33m (18) Up flake to sloping ledge and piton at 15 metres. Then: The obvious way is to climb directly to the overhang and then hand traverse wildly right to the arete. The original way is to step right around the arete from the foot of or just below the sloping ledge then up the wall to the lip of the overhang and a piton. Now that the two ways have joined, pull over the bulge (be careful with the flake) onto the wall above. Either belay on a small stance on the left just above the overhang or continue up several metres to a slightly larger stance on the right.

2. 24m (18) Up short steep featured corner, left into beautiful thin corner then up to belay on small foot ledge on right below open crackless corner. (Pitches 2 and 3 are often combined.)

3. 26m (19) Gain access to the next corner left by stepping down and hand traversing the horizontal hand crack or charging up diagonally straight off the belay. Either method is pretty bold but not too hard. Up corner and past a piton to a small ledge on the left arete. Up juggy wall to long ledge below overhangs.

4. 33m (17) Take the awesome steep left-facing corner left of the roof until it eases and up crack to top.

2m R of PCT.

A slopey left-trending rampline starting in the middle of the Cut & Waste traverse line. Low sit-start then technical.

Stand start up the left arete.

A good pitch. Now has two bolt anchor.

SDS with pockets, head up with some big moves between great holds.

Easiest line up through the second tier. Awkward mantle onto ledge then up steep weakness in left side of roof. Ramble up choss to top. Four FHs.

Sit starts just right of 'Sesame Superhighway' and climbs the series of jugs to a high finish. Descend via the righthand side.

A bolted direct finish to Touchstone. Follow second ptich of Touchstone but, instead of veering left, continue directly up wall past two bolts.

Very nice, albeit short. A rare sport route at this grade at Araps. There is gear after the last bolt, but it's very easy.

Start at the corner 4m R of 'Sweet Chariot'.

Up the corner and little arete feature to the rooflet then R and up.

Rebolted May 2023

Left side of the wall, just left of large block on the ground. Stand start, up on thin holds.

SDS on crimps up to a one-move-wonder to the high edge.

Very pumpy and well-protected; take lots of cams including big ones. It used to start up Huey but the walk across the ledge at 5 metres was just silly.

Start: Start 5 metres left of Huey at small corner.

Sit start right of 'Gay Hip Flexor' and traverse left a few moves, then up on jugs through the groove to finish. A couple of fun variants exist straight through the roof here as well.

Sit or stand start, up blunt arete to tricky finish.

Struggle up black crack, past overhang, then grey corner to ledge on R. Climb wall above to summit, it's possible to traverse off R to rap anchor on 'Chinese Algebra'.

Start: L of blank orange wall is a black crack.

Sit start with underclings on the large pockets in the middle of the face. Head straight up.

Straightens out Jon Muir's old route which climbed mostly off to the L. Starts immediately L of 'Scourge'. A difficult pull or two leads up past two bolts and finishes directly up the seam above and up the middle of the final headwall.

Start 1m L of Vulcan - up the arete and boulder R into and finish up Vulcan.

Right rising traverse on low prow boulder to the right of Darjeeling Express

Start 2.5m Right of Cicero.

Up broken flakes to overhang then crack over blocks. Right beneath summit block to crack.

Obvious direct finish to Morgul Khan but a crucial flake is suspect. Start as for Morgul Khan.

3m R of the corner of Opossum. Up the face staying R of the corner on some really nice rock past 4FHs. Rebolted May 2022 with permission of the FA.

Horrendous fist jam start to nice lay backing. Barely worth the effort really.

Funky climbing and route-finding. The moves up to the roof are committing. Start on the left side of the grey pedestal.

Stand start the slab on the left.

Sit start on the jugs, heading straight upwards.

Bridge between the boulders to establish feet on the rail for v5 problem and the larger boulder. Use the big holds along the crack to traverse the boulder and finish on the V0 at the other end. Finish is the hardest part.

Tricky warm up (or testpiece) starting from the big down-sloping 'jug' and climbing up via an obvious slopey pocket to the big finish break.

Technically interesting climbing up the wall L of 'Cassandra'. Clip the first bolt on 'Cassandra' then veer L and up past three more bolts. The crux moves are pulling past the final bolt into a bottomless crack/pocket. A few slabby moves off L gains the ledge and the lower-off anchors.

Sit down start at the two good jugs just below (and right) of the huge slot jug. Up using any holds except for the big foot shelf to the left.

Can be started from the thin edges on the 45° rock for a harder grade.

Sit start matched on pocket. Pull right to undercling, then up.

Links the start of 'Conflict of Interest' into the excellent juggy finish of 'Full Metal Vengeance'. Cross over at COI's third bolt.

Arete / face downhill from Bikini Bootcamp. Start up RH side of slabby grey rib (as for Gimli) to base of undercut arete, up arete / wall past 3 x FH to lower off

Big moves, heel hooks; it always pays to rummage in corners. Sit start then left to the big pinch and top out.

... gonna make you sweat, gonna make you groove.

Start just L of The Hard Ears.

Up over a bulge.

The arete leading to a mantle on the leftside of the cave. Start matching on the block, then head up via a 'rib' feature, finishing via a mantle topout. An easier (V0) version is to head left at the sloper (thereby missing out the rib feature).

An attractive line that used to be graded a very tough 17! The right-hand, shallow corner just right of Outlaw Oats. Chains on top.