Routes in Victoria for selected grade

Start 1m right of 'Sagittarian' and up poorly protected wall just right of the bolts.

Bouldery start then move rightwards into the line.

Start at the vague line towards the L end of the wall.

The arete.

Start just R of 'Yakshini'.

The corner then finish R.

Start 1m R of 'Tom Thumb'.

The wall right of 'Flavius Maximus'. This was also written up as 'Tribute To God' in the April 2009 Argus.

Over block to undercling, then straight up wall to top. Protection in crack on left of wall.

Lean R and clip the BR on the unknown bolted line. Then go straight up.

Start: Start R of MC at jugs.

Very contrived as it's much easier to use jugs just L.

Start: Start 5m R of T&Q.

Bouldery start.

Start: Start on L side of Slander Wall.

The nice thin crack on the arete, but don't reach L to make it easier!

Start: Start at the arete R of RT.

Climb brittle edges with minimal protection to the horizontal break (optional gear if you choose to head diagonally right from the initial jug to a shallow groove). Surmount the flake above the bulge, after which a few more moves will take you to the ledge.

Face, around L side of block, wall above.

Start: Start 1m L of R.

Overhanging flake on L edge of cave, then short groove.

Start: Start L of CC.

Take horizontal weakness opposite 'Falsetto', then up.

Start: Start at the far left hand end of baby buttress at the back of the gully.

Pull through overhanging corner to bomber locks in corner crack and continue up ramp to pedestal and juggy wall on left.

Start: Start just right of 'Tarzan'.

From the top of the curving flake step right to cracks and up.

Start as for E. Bridge chimney for 8m then tricky face moves to join a wide L-facing flake/crack.

Technically interesting climbing up the wall L of 'Cassandra'. Clip the first bolt on 'Cassandra' then veer L and up past three more bolts. The crux moves are pulling past the final bolt into a bottomless crack/pocket. A few slabby moves off L gains the ledge and the lower-off anchors.

Originally 18 - it's still solid at 19! The Pauligks' aid wasn't actually at the crux - theirs was an awesome effort for 1966. The appealing crack on the L side of the beautiful orange front face of the buttress. Follow crack till it finishes then step R and up Careful of the rock up higher.

Great sustained climbing with great protection the whole way. Start a few metres right of Electra. Can lower off with 65m rope.

Start 1m R of Private Detective. Go diagonally R, across Stentor pitch 3, and up arete. The Direct Start (18) starts 3m R of Stentor's 3rd pitch and goes straight up to the arete. Note the March 2004 route dubbed "Skin Flute" (14m 18) by Shaun Kratzer and Joshua Janes is almost certainly a repeat of this Direct Start.

Start just L of Lemmington. The shallow groove, becoming very contrived to stay out of Lemmington.

Has steadily increased it's reputation over the years, and is now considered by some to be one of the best 19s at Arapiles. Start in the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, on the Piccolo side. Approach by going L around the back of D Minor Pinnacle. The logs and chain in the gully are for erosion control; they are not designed or to be used as belay anchors.

The little flake 2 metres right of the bulging crack.

A short, hard avoidable crux set amid a lot of easy climbing. Start as for Keyboard.

1. 45m (12) Up Keyboard until just above tree. Walk left and climb flake line just right of gully. Step left to belay on huge chockstone.

2. 32m (19) Step back right and up steep line through rooflet and then easily up.

Funky climbing and route-finding. The moves up to the roof are committing. Start on the left side of the grey pedestal.

Fantastic climbing on gorgeous peachy rock, many climbers' favourite 19 at Araps. Chains at top (32m). Videos

This good crack system is the only surviving piece of a long-forgotten girdle traverse of the Organ Pipes. Perhaps it would have had more credibility if it had started with a tyrolean from the top of the D Minor Pinnacle.

Five old carrot bolts are scattered along the beginning of the route though most are near more reliable natural protection. The good climbing is over too soon and gives way to easy moves on dubious rock.

Start at a little corner below and right of The Wraith. Take care to set the belayer where they will not kick loose rock down the gully onto people below (or better yet, eliminate this risk entirely by starting up Low F instead).

A good way to do the good bit of F Sharp from the ground. Start up Dirge for 8m, move left and up Low Note to the base of the diagonal, and follow this up L into the business of F Sharp. When it gets easy head R to the chains and lower off back to the ground. It's possible to clean your own gear (with admin), but much better to have someone second it.

Start: Start right of Starsearch, under where the half height ledge ends.

As for W but then follow the R crack to ledge. Step up R onto R wall, over roof into steep groove/crack.

Start: Start as for W.

A traverse of Brick Wall. A strange concept that has been superseded by Brickeasy. Start as for Brick Dust

Up Brick Dust for one move, then r across Squeakeasy to easier traversing.

Some people find this quite hard - but it's not 20!

Start 5m R of Squeakeasy.

Polished face to pedestal, L into the line which is quite steep over the bulge, then the corner. At 25m walk 5m L to Squeakeasy's rap anchor.

If you enjoyed Golden Fleece, you want to do this too. A little bit more tricky. Start 1m R of Golden Fleece. Up the little pillar - or step into it after a move or two. Up the thin cracks to join GF at the ledge, then up and slightly right.

The wall just right of Dylan.

Up the thin diagonal to a break then traverse off R. The DF goes straight up from the horizontal at the same grade.

Start: In the Gravy Train 'Gully' is a thin diagonal crack.

... gonna make you sweat, gonna make you groove.

Start just L of The Hard Ears.

Up over a bulge.

With every ascent we'll throw in a free pump!

Start: Start in gully underneath the best part of the wall.

Poor pro. The flake then the fused corner, and L at roof.

Start: Start 3m R of AitDZ.

As you walk off the top of Mari Buttress you pass under some large boulders. This route takes the twin cracks just up from the small climb down. Up righthand crack. Climb both to little roof. Step back into righthand crack to top. The hardest move is the first one. Up to the roof, step left onto the foothold and crank.

Heading left around the pillar, up undercut corner on left side of Gelf icon then up face.

Start at the far L end of Skyline Walls about 20m L of Copyright. Take the crack on the L side of the gully, finishing up the Intransience face.

Start just R of F. The steep flake and shallow groove just R of the gully, with sparse microwires.

Start as for Copyright and continue up crack direct to top half of Bootleg.

Start just R of Copyright. Step across the gap and gain the large pockets. Climb past the thread to jugs, then trend leftwards up the face to join the steep flake. Finish up this. Bit Torrent is better.

Starts 2m right of Non Stop (as for Cuddly Fat) at faint corner. Up this to jugs, right slightly, then cut left up red scoop and through final roof. Belay available in cave.

The looming arete in the gully climbers left of Starless Buttress, covered mostly in Lichen. Line goes direct up the right side of the arete, find whatever gear you can. Committing final move up overhang to jugs.

Very nice, albeit short. A rare sport route at this grade at Araps. There is gear after the last bolt, but it's very easy.

Start 1m R of SC. Trend a bit R to a smooth grey bulge with no pro (the gully just to the R is NOT an escape gully despite appearances). Walk R to the rap station at the L end of the Pillars.

A fine balancy slab which is harder for the vertically challenged. Start 1m R of Diagonal Crack.

The thin crack. After the crack eases the easiest finish is on the L, but pulling direct over the little overlap and up the short wall above is better.

Start 8m R of D. The wide crack, then the roof and wall.

Bold. Don't forget the mattress.

Start: Right of Wild Rose at obvious crack.

Up crack swinging right to arete and stance. Back up left onto arete. Wander to top.

Straightens out Jon Muir's old route which climbed mostly off to the L. Starts immediately L of 'Scourge'. A difficult pull or two leads up past two bolts and finishes directly up the seam above and up the middle of the final headwall.

Takes the southwest arete of the Dreadnought Buttress, from a ledge above Intergalactic Space Patrol. Approach the ledge via a crack just right of Cranking for Jesus.

Start and finish have poor pro. Straight up (was originally brushed very clean but may have grown back). Finish up shallow corner L of an orange nose.

Start: Start 10m L of 'Brontosaurus' at L end of ledge.

The subtle weakness in frictional rock 20m up left from Deeply Techo. Lots of gear if you can hang out to place it; small wires are very handy. Start 20m up L from DT. Now has a rap anchor.

Some nice rock and climbing in the shade and close to camp. The ledge below the crux slab makes it advisable to break into two pitches. Start as for Firedance.

1. 23m 16 Up a couple of metres until able to move right onto the obvious traverse line which rapidly eases (make sure to protect the second ). After 10 or 12 metres of traversing right, move up right of a bushy crack and up grey wall (FH, tiny cams) to ledge below black slab.

2. 10m 19 Off block up centre of black slab. Travel light, 2 FH and a wire or two. 30m abseil.

The line delineating the L side of the Morfydd pillar is freshly cleaned. Desperate start protected by a 1 RP leads to sustained, thought provoking crack climbing. Traverse off to NS anchors.

Not given many stars until recently, this is now widely considered one of the finest 19s at Arapiles. It used to be 20 so don't expect a soft touch. Start under the prominent line up the south face of the pinnacle. Rap anchor at the top.

Wagalak's chains unfortunately were a retrobolt of this route. But on the upside, if you lower off the chains this is possibly the best wet weather 19 at 'Arapiles'. Start as for 'Mantis' and climb it until 2m below the roof. Now traverse left along the break for 8m to the arête (where you will now find Wagalak's chains). Finish straight up the nice cracked arête. Unless you like ropedrag, use double ropes or split it into two pitches at the chains.

Traverse left towards arete and then swing back right and up till arete can be reached again.

Start: Start left of 'Pulpy Kidney'

The line between Minimus and Camelot.

Start at bottom sloping side of SW side of the boulder. Traverse along the lip then round nose and up.

Starting on the two obvious crimps and using the sidepull to make your way right . Avoid using the obvious juggy ledges. Finishes on the round white marble-y hold.

Stand start in jam then up left and top out. Looks like a quite hard sit start has been done

On the trackside of the boulder. Up big suspect flakes.

Traverse R to L

Rounded arete on good holds

Sit start on obvious jug, then straight up to top out via ledge.

Later became Tony's Route (the present direct line), though 90% of it had been climbed in the 1960's as 'The Desired'.

Start: Start below the pitch 1 corner of 'Orpheus'.

1. 45m (19) Directly up into the cruxy corner, then continue steeply up direct crack to a small stance.

2. 30m (14) Much easier and less good climbing takes you to the Bard Terrace. Solo off left from here or climb the last pitch of Bard or the wide corner.

Start: Start 15m up the gully, at an orange ledge.

1. 18m (-) Traverse R on pale rock then up corner to belay at guano niche on the R.

2. 43m (19) Originally done in 3 pitches. Up the L-trending ramp (move R around a hard bit).

3. 18m (-) An overhang then up R.

4. 33m (-) 'Steep' flake on L then up loose ledges.

Left of Poppies' roof on the arete above Bard Terrace there are two options. This is the left one. The hard bit is the first roof, obviously, then doddle to the top.

Start: Start on the Bard Terrace above 'Eurydice' p2.

Left of Poppies' roof on the arete above Bard Terrace there are two options. This is the right one. The hard bit is the first roof, obviously, then doddle to the top.

Start: Start on Bard Terrace above 'Eurydice' p2.

Start as for The Bard, or by traversing easily R from near the base of Eurydice.

1. 35m (19) Wander up The 'Bard' slab, then continue trending slightly left over bulges (at one point entirely on loose blocks/flakes - you can avoid these by doing OPM). Belay a few metres R of Eurydice's 1st belay.

2. 35m (19) Punch through the low roof at a weakness 3m R of Eurydice, then diagonal right and blast up the great red wall, staying a few metres L of the main arete. Belay on the Bard Terrace.

The arete with minimal pro.

Start: Start L of 'Blockbuster'.

As for The Keyhole then take the steep crack 3m L of The Keyhole. Once in the alcove above, take the steep juggy R wall.

Start at the top of Dire Straights. You need a cairn to start - if you must do this make sure you don't send rocks off the edge onto others below.

1. 18m (2) As for Eagle Cleft to base of chimney.

2. 32m (19) Up Eagle Cleft direct chimney for 15m, bridge out and step on to right wall past bolt (19) up flake and traverse 5m to belay at chains.

3. 17m (19) Directly up past loose blocks(pinned) to guano under roof. Exciting and exposed moves past 2 bolts to bolt belay.

4. 22m (15) directly up wall for 18m then traverse right for 3m to belay as for new tricks.

5. 25m (14) Directly up and through overhang past bolt on central buttress to bolt belay.

The left wall of Kestrel. Scramble up the first 3 metres to the alcove. Small corner then past bolt to seam and follow this for 18m to join arete, eventually meeting Skylark for the final few metres

After the rooflet on Supersonic Moose, continue straight into Kestral. It's the obvious thing to do.

As Flying Moose except keep left at top and gain crack in overlap 3 metres right of Kestrel. A trad anchor can be built here. Up through crack and gain rising right traverse to easy stance then up the left facing corner of Surfacing before avoiding the boulders above by stepping left into Kestrel for the final 8 metres or so to the Kestrel rap chains.

Start 5 metres right of the Kestrel ramp beneath a bolt. Climb directly up past bolt and wall above to a more slabby section veering left to easy stance and shallow corner. Directly up to rap chains.

A good single pitch to a rap anchor or an approach to the pitches above, The first climb in the area, it was filthy, the exact start wasn't clear and it had a weak second pitch. Now the first pitch is cleaned and re-instated and we'll just forget about pitch 2.

Start between Kestrel and Yo Yo.

Up past BR towards little overlap then up into shallow corner on it's left side. Up line to major overlap at 25m, moving right below this to rap anchors.

Quite pleasant climbing.

Start: Start 4 metres right of 'The Eighth' at nice seams.

1. 12m (19) Climb the seams then move left and belay on the ledge by the old 'Highway' 8 sign. Note that the seams further left have also been climbed.

2. 30m (16) Move left and finish up the arete left of Phoenix (the original finish of Problem Child).

A good pitch. Now has two bolt anchor.

Nice technical climbing on quality rock with good protection. Start on wide ledge, 4m right of Broken Song. Up past 2 bolts, continue up on easier ground to final headwall, trending rightwards up to lower off.

The central line on the upper wall. Start up 'Senior Citizens' or 'The Gentle Touch' and belay on good ledge to left of line.

There's a gnarly old gumtree about 15 metres right of Take Me To Elwood. Climb the smooth streak.

Start below the hole. Up to hole stepping left at this point and up through steep stuff. Wander up to belay as for 'An Alien Cut My Rope'.