Routes in Victoria for selected grade

At the L hand of the tors is an obvious flake crack. Climb the flake and up the slab above.

"I cant get no......." A strenuous climb with a good start. The first pitch was originally almost all aid. Starts at the corner R of KB.

1. 27m 19 Hard moves into the corner. layback to the small ledge.

2. 13m 16 The crack.

3. 21m 17 Follow the tight awful body jam.

The climbn starts left of LGL. There is a anchor after first pitch. I liked it and it is worth the effort..

Start as for deep lead, exit on jugs right of tree. More pads will help.

From the big rail, climb the left side of the face on perfect crimps. More pads will help.

Sit start, climb middle of face on crimp rails.

Behind free standing block. Sit compressing edges.

Sit start, compress your way up the blunt arete.

Climb the janky crack. Get scared when feet run out.

Now with 3 bolts and a rap station at 45m. Still a bold start, but makes for a great climb. Place a high runner in the corner of MoP, then delicate traverse across slab to good holds, then up.

Very runout first pitch to WAFTT. Up flaring fist crack for 10m then step left onto face and run out the rest of the pitch on the slabs. Very bold lead.

Route goes totally free at 18/19. Easy laybacking to some tricky moves through the roof. Great climbing.

The most northerly wall, containing three cracks and several horizontal breaks. Take the second crack.

L-leaning crack at the R hand side of the block. when the crack finishes, either slab boldly to chains, or step R into groove to chains. Great climbing

An excellent overhanging hand crack. Was given 17 by the FA but most agree it's a couple of grades harder.

This route can be hard to locate because it faces out into the valley. The best option is to locate Homer's Butt Crack; Hand vice is the same split but in the other side of the boulder. From Homer's Butt Crack, walk back down the track to find find a gap through the boulders that you can walk through. A short scramble takes you to the route.

Starts approximately in centre of face, a few metres R of Epic. The crack, then slab past 1BR and 1RB.

up crack on LH side of the block, then slab up blunt arete passing 2? carrots to top.

Boulder up the line of least resistance on the side facing away from the road.

Has probably been done many times before. The vertical flake on the left from a stand start, using the wall for feet. Top out.

Furthest left line of bolts across small gully from Maharajah.

Up via pocket to first BR of 'Shell Shock', then left and up past another 6 BRs to u-bolts.

The left hand line on the front of the buttress beloextw Maharajah and around right from Compulsion. The next few routes start from the top of a boulder. Tricky scramble up or rap down and left from the Sunrunner anchors.

Up off width corner crack to 2 meters left of Sunrunner. Changes from stacks to hands about halfway up. Use Sunrunner anchor at the top to rappel down.

Rapping just to the base of the clean corner and climbing back up from there gives an excellent grade 15 route. Rap to the ground if you want to do the steep bouldery crux start. Can be done in one pitch or belay on the first big ledge you come to.

steep fist to offwidth (crux) corner crack to desperate top out (rap rings) Approach is also tricky

Start as for Sorcerer's apprentice (up the mossy little corner on the left). Up obvious corner, starting at hands and widening to OW at the top. A #5 is nice.

Access to the rap bolts on sorcerer's apprentice is possible by walking away from the edge about 10-15m, to a point where you can easily scramble up a level.

Starts around left of, and approximately level with, the ledge at the end of P1 'Beg, Borrow Or Steal'. Up up the crack/flake (bring cams), then up past 3 spaced RBs.

Fine moderate slabbing up the narrow buttress. Well protected (for Buffalo), on big shiny carrots.

Traverse all the way (past BR) to the Arete.

According to the update, this route climbs the wall direct straight from the belay. 6 BR's.

Climbs the north side of the highest tor ("The Fin"). Though the difficulty of the climbing is uneven - the crux is getting started, then the rest is probably about grade 15 - the climbing is nonetheless consistently enjoyable.

1. Clip the first bolt from the sloped boulder beside the base of the wall, then pull onto the wall and past a second FH. Up to and up the groove, then past 3 more FHs to a fixed belay/rappel anchor on top

5m right of 'Needlepoint For Beginners'.

Up the crack. This may also be the easiest way down.

An excellent route. Small cams protect the first pitch and everything from RPs to big cams on the second. Start on the big ledge at the base of the S-crack, midway between 'Impetus' and 'Oscar'.

1. 27m (19) Easily up the detached blocks until the crack veers left. Follow the thin crack system up the face and up the short, easy hand-crack to big ledge.

2. 15m (16) Shift the belay across the ledge to a slanting corner, the line right of 'Tienanmen Square'. Step right into the corner and up it to exit right at the top.

Adjacent East to the above, also marked 'The Three Sisters'. Not a bad crack to work up but the top out is awkward and rough.

On top of the larger boulders in the area. Not much to see here as it is so short. Perhaps try traversing?

As the name implies, straight up.

Not recommended. The first crack around the corner from Bobbin.

Climb up a ramp past 2 BRs and then mount the headwall above past one more BR.

Duck through the cave and this is the next nice crack along. Easy moves out of the cave lead to a no hands rest. Continue up the thin corner (crux).

Small seam right of G String. Bad pro to start leading to nice flakes.

Short and sweet. Start on the lower right and roughly follow the arete past 2 BRs.

Easy climbing apart from boulder problem underneath the shelf. Start to the right of Quartz Ridge, then head to the right once you reach the first platform about 1.5-2m up the route. Climb up to underside of prominent shelf, then complete a V3 boulder move starting underneath the right side of the shelf to join back onto the arete and finsish as you would for Quartz Ridge.

Start in the middle of the steep wall on the right under the first bolt. Stay away from the arete to the left and the rocks to the right. 4RB's up to anchor. Anchor is accessible from the top or can rap to it from the large tree.

Climb straight up where the finger pocket is.

Starts right of 'The Little One Stops To Tie His Shoe' under the diagonal ramp, climbs straight up. Be careful of the crumbly top-out.

On the little face above Check This Out. Start in the gap with your feet on an edge down low. Crimp and dyno R to the top. Mantle.

Climb the centre of the boulder behind "Jumpin"

Sitstart laybacking to the left. Crank up to jugs and top out.

Start as for "Seams Hopeless" and climb the L arete.

A good introduction to Felltimber as the landing is good. Start standing at the good holds in the middle of "Seams Hopeless" and go straight up.

Above the "Seams Hopeless" boulder is a small cave with graffiti in it. Start in the cave, climb the little slab and then the offwidth crack to a spicy finish.

Up behind "The Plate" you can find a short flake. Climb this and mantle.

Sit start on the R of the mini-cave (see "Briar Crack") and climb up, traverse L, turn around and top out.

This is an eliminate where you traverse the wall from R to L without using anything above the horizontal seam (you can use the seam itself). Jump off once you are standing on the rail L of the tree.

Start on the R-hand side of the slab where there is a good foothold. Take the line of least resistance diagonally L and up.

Start as for Slab Happy but go straight up. The top-out is committing (and usually dirty).

Sit-start under the little overhang and pull up, move R to a jug and top out.