Routes in Victoria for selected grade

Sit start down in void with Wattle tree growing out of it. Nice, steep arete climbing with cracks

On eastern face of boulder. Up ramp to left arete, follow the arete all the way to the top. Slab it up!

Stand start between Sendero and Hacer up on flakes and crimps to an awkward top out

Stand start with an easy foothold, up along the crack to an easy pinch for the top out.

Start as for Track Crack, but after getting established on face, go straight up and mantle to top.

Takes the left side of the slab. 1FH and 3 RB

Replaced the remaining carrots with RB 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

This route climbs the pinnacle mentioned in the access description that is used to locate Rockwell Road Pinnacles from the track. Climb the south-east arete facing the western walking track. Be careful down climbing.

Corner just L of The Slot Machine.

Seam to Right of Tarred and Feathered. Wires and 1BR. Belay from blocks 10 m behind top.

2m R of Caught Redhanded, up to break, BR, seam, BR

Wall direct via RB to the FH on Bill and Ben. Finish up this to DRB anchor. (old DBB will be pulled once the new anchor has been tested)

Replaced the old rusty BR with RP fixed hanger and new anchor added 01/24. Bolts and glue provided by Safer Cliffs Victoria.

25m to right of SplitRock.Slab on small features

Up the left of the slab on flake and thin seam. Carefully top out between slightly chossy bulges.

Sit. Crimp, jug, mantle.

-No longer available due to rockfall.

As for Tourbus, but finish after mantling

Same start as directionless except follow the crack to the left and use the jug to top out.

Up crack in south face to break, then up onto steep slab past BR to top. DBB

Trad - of the no gear variety! Scramble further up the Lauren gully to a small open area, continuing straight ahead (eastwards) to the NARN block. NARN is the right hand arete.

Lower angled slab a couple of metres R.

AKA Razor's edge. Edges L of the nose; a couple of lines possible.

R arete of boulder, with nice knob handhold. There used to be a small boulder in front of this, which has disappeared.

This climb has been downgraded from 19 to 16 in the 2011 Guide Book "ROCKCLIMBS AROUND MELBOURNE" by Glenn Tempest.

Midway tween Pissing on a Friend and Around the Bend. Up past BR to cams in centre of the overlap flake.

3m R of the corner of Opossum. Up the face staying R of the corner on some really nice rock past 4FHs. Rebolted May 2022 with permission of the FA.

The short and hard finger crack directly opposite Broken Dreams

Up to FH 3m right of Boneseed then right to arete, overlap

The feature offwidth splitting front of boulder.

This appears to be a repeat of Diary of an Infidel.

Lovely location on a unique rock. Shaded from the sun.

Drag your ass of the ground and climb up the face (the black streak and concave section) to an easy mantle. Some fun moves.

Use the tree to get down.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvoGFz1kEns

3m R of the crack

Starts up Pedagogue, but traverses up an into AP.

Major line in the middle of the crag. Difficult hand crack and flake.

Sit start on the low holds of the overhanging double arete. Work your way to the top, then use the other boulder for hands and feet. Top out the left boulder you started on. Really flows, fun problem.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0pSDAshlko8

Short Diagonal crack on the West-facing side

Diagonal crack on lower side - finishing straight up over branch.

Sit start on top of the rock where to ground levels out. Make an easy pull up using the small uncut holds on the seam and the face holds. Traverse the face of the slightly overhanging boulder to the very left side and top out.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-_bEW8dMS6Q

Step onto the route from small boulder. Up and to the left to top out. Bit highball. Be careful down climbing or jumping off.

Still to be climbed from the ground and possible sit start if the flakes hold.

2 BR. Although a sport climb; take a size #1 cam to protect the 2nd at the top.... the belay is a long way across.

Short left leaning crack on the right side of the First Tramway Boulder. Eases after the start.

Takes a small seam 2m Left of The Greyline Bus 2BR and run out at the top

Best looking line here. Shallow water runnel with 2 BR

3m right of the Wattle. Steep slab past 2 BR

Left arete passing 2 BR.

Off boulder 2m R of RBYE, then up to BR.

Seam 10m up and L of Night Moves to ramp, then L. BR.

Corner crack in middle of block. The guide gives it a star.

Black streak 2m R of BM. BR. The guide gives it a star

Starts left of Blood on the Tracks. Straight up face passing ring bolt and direct to top next to arete.

A much better quality finish, though you have to pretend the block on the R isn't there.

Start 2m R of 'Conscientious Pontius'.

The finger crack with forks at the top. Take the L fork.

Start 1m L of Vulcan - up the arete and boulder R into and finish up Vulcan.

Start at the corner 4m R of 'Sweet Chariot'.

Up the corner and little arete feature to the rooflet then R and up.

Rebolted May 2023

Start 2.5m Right of Cicero.

Up broken flakes to overhang then crack over blocks. Right beneath summit block to crack.

Start 6m R of 'Veni Vedi Vici'.

Up the slot at R side of the cave, then take the thin diagonal crack up and R.

The crack R of 'Roman Holiday'.

Start as for 'Purist Oasis' then L and up.

Sit down start on the arete and follow the lip right to top out via the short right facing corner.

The hanging gardens of... Stand start on juggy hanging flake 3m Left of SR. Ascend jugs into mossy hanging corner. Stop when bored, filthy, soaking or scared. The jug horn up right is an obvious target.

Undercut wide crack on the left edge of the downhill face. Long pull diagonally up right or jump to start for those without the span. Easy crack above.

Up and right to ledge. Crack above.

No seriously, it is at least 50deg and probably easier than V1! Around right if PPP start on lowest jugs in cave, get back just off rising ground behind and surf the miss and jugs to victory.

Quite good. Sit start at obvious jug in face and make long move to lip. Up to mantle jugs making sure not to fall down the gully!

Easy, barely worthwhile and definitely best not fallen off... but if you're in the area! Start lying downhill on slab under nose (the crux?!) and left hand on obvious jug. Pull on, long move to lip and move around right face to mantle on jugs.

Caving! Crux is staying off back wall which is only ever inches away! Behind the start of the green room is a 40degree funnel. Start lying in slab, pull in and contort way out to the light via jugs.

Sit start with side pull and crimp, head up to opposing gaston and top out.

Start as for Split Images and then continue as for Law Enforcer

Right of Split Images, starts in the gully of Oxbow. Straight up to RB, then follow Split Images using its 2 RBs to the overhang. Clip the RB above the lip and move left under the overhang and pull awkwardly into Poxbow. Then into the overhanging headwall using flakes, clip last RB and finish on the Poxbow ledge.

Cruxy. Rebolted by the FA 2020. Start L of Black Magic as for 'Powder Hound'. Up short wall past 3 RBs to anchor to the R of 'Wee Ripper'.

Start off boulders under the single high carrot bolt.

May need a good brushing as the lichen and moss has reclaimed most of it.

Pleasant link up. Start up The Down Spiral to just short of the 4th FH, step L to Into Oblivion's 3rd FH finishing up that climb.

Sit start, traverse left under overhang on good holds, then up.

SDS on crimps up to a one-move-wonder to the high edge.

SDS with pockets, head up with some big moves between great holds.

SDS Traverse left from Tempest to the arete and up.

If instead of finishing up, you finish down into the starting holds of sally the slapper, and controlledly end in a sit down finish it makes for a fun V3 or so.

SDS. side pulls to jugs

Around right from the front face is a very short, over hung face capped by an uncleared hanging slab. Deceptive sit start on pinchy lay aways to gain slopes on lip (big jug up right is out) then get your mantle on. A Castle Hill (god’s own) mantle it is not!

SDS left hand pinch, right hand very low undercling. Up the right side of the arete.

Rising traverse. SDS from crimps finishing across right.

SDS at Turning Point, traversing right to left across the full face and exiting above the start of First Step

SDS off the crimp rail in the dish. Balancy moves lead straight up above the top of the depression.

Sit down start at the two good jugs just below (and right) of the huge slot jug. Up using any holds except for the big foot shelf to the left.

Can be started from the thin edges on the 45° rock for a harder grade.

Sit down start with left hand on arete and right hand on the pinch in the middle of the overhanging face. Go straight up, and then make a big move right at the crack to the jugs of Glenfiddich and up as per that climb. Use of hands on the arete above the crack is out/drops a grade. A direct version from the start straight to the jugs adds a grade.

SDS Right side of the arete

Sit start with underclings on the large pockets in the middle of the face. Head straight up.

Climb the high arete. SDS and avoid temptation to step left on ledge.

Climb the refrigerator to either bail onto the chockstone or head up the exciting headwall.

Sit start goes at V1. Stand V0. Try to avoid using the chockstone on right on lower part of climb.

Start as for A King. Move left at the first FH then straight up through the rooflet to Rook's Return DBB. Graded for going straight up to the roof and through it from the third bolt.

SDS on the underclings. Leftwards past the hanging block and onto the slabby rounded arete. Given the tiered landing best to not fall on the easy top half.

Descent for this and the other boulder problems to the right is easiest by carefully down climbing diagonally left into the gully.

As for Honeycomb Hangover. Up the buttress, to the break. Right across this to a Glue Bolt (SafeCliffsVictoria 2003); hard to see from below, then up the wall above.

Start 30m right of Locris. Scramble 2m to ledge and up big right leaning flake then straight up the guts of the impressive red overhang.

The orange arête at the right end of the caves, with an undercut start, between the large tree and pointy boulder to the right. Resist the temptation to bridge off the boulder, and instead go left through a crux start up up to a stance. Delicate traverse right to the arête, then it gets much juggier from there. At the big ledge, walk back and right and continue up the next wall.

The start can be protected with pre-placed, finger-size cams, by traversing in from the cave and using the diagonal crack above the bollard, then scrambling back down to start. (Or just climb from the cave to bring it down to around grade 16-17.)