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Begehungen in Belougery Spire

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Mi 17. Apr 2024 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
20 Peregrine Traditionell 55m Gut
hugh sutherland
Good addition to the bungles . Approx 30m of new climbing. The finger crack is great. The adventure begins on the approach.

 
Di 2. Apr 2024 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire North Face
17 Caucasus Corner - mit Harrie Van de Linde, Sam Tidswell, ashton grieve
1 14 45m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Khush Dodhia-Shah
2 17 26m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Sam Tidswell
3 13 36m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Khush Dodhia-Shah
4 16 28m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Sam Tidswell
5 14 21m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Sam Tidswell
6 15 33m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Khush Dodhia-Shah
7 15 24m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Khush Dodhia-Shah
8 14 18m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Khush Dodhia-Shah
9 14 24m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Khush Dodhia-Shah
10 14 21m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Khush Dodhia-Shah
11 14 21m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Sam Tidswell
12 15 33m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Sam Tidswell
Traditionell 330m Mega-Klassiker
Khush Dodhia-Shah
Prometheus is Bound no more - we freed that motherfucker!!!!!! Holy dooooley this was a coming of age climb. My most gnarly to date.

18 hour mission - left camp at 8am, back at 2am. Type 1,2,3 fun, all in a day - 30 degs and sun does that. Only 2L water each, big L (defs sun stroke vibes). 2 parties of 2 but we sorta shared gear so ended up being kinda a 4.

I swung leads with Sam (side note - STOKED I got to send this together with him, my first climbing friend in Sydney, and before he leaves for the other side of the world!) and we went well. Couple of linked pitches meant I had the gnarly traverse pitch 6 that is not for the faint of heart. Haz lead Ashton and went a high line, which the guide specifically warns against, so Sam and I decided on a lower line. I was going well, foot jugs and pro for 7-8m around the corner then my line turned a pro-less 18 with thin holds and fuck that - talk about the fear of god! Back climbed, went up and followed Haz's line which was dece. Next pitch was night fall and on run out choss blocks so I shat brix, but yelled the loudest I ever have on a climb (and thats saying something) when I got round the arete to solid rock and placed a bomber cam and nut. I don't know what that feeling was. Rest was smooth up, beautiful, serene gratitude for it all.

The descent was on brand for the day. couldn't find the rap to save our lives (lol eventually did), but made the rap longer and harder for ourselves and bashed back to camp. The relief, accomplishment, commeradarie, stoke, fatigue, confusion and elation was all evident. I don't even know but in love with the story.

I FUCKING LOVE THE BUNGLES.

CHEERS FELLAS THAT WAS ANYTHIN!!!!!

 
Mo 1. Apr 2024 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
14 Endeavour Face - mit Anna, Jessie
1 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Aaron Wong
2 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Aaron Wong
3 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Aaron Wong
4 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Aaron Wong
Traditionell 80m Sehr gut
Aaron Wong
A brutal introduction to the Bungles. The approach and descent were arguably much harder than any of the climbing!

I completed this climb in 2 long pitches. Rope drag was noticeable but not the worst I've experienced.

Descent down the abseil gully in the dark was difficult. And finding the "easy descent" after the second abseil was very difficult, with numerous false starts. The descent after the second abseil is to the left (facing the wall) and you should re-emerge on the ledge that you start Endeavour Face/Vertigo on. We ended up leaving some tat on a tree to safely lower ourselves, which was then returned to us a couple of days later by our new friends at camp who smartly climbed and returned during the day!

 
So 31. Mär 2024 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire North Face
17 Caucasus Corner - mit ashton
1 14 45m Traditionell
2 17 26m Traditionell
3 13 36m Traditionell
4 16 28m Traditionell
5 14 21m Traditionell
6 15 33m Traditionell
7 15 24m Traditionell
8 14 18m Traditionell
9 14 24m Traditionell
10 14 21m Traditionell
11 14 21m Traditionell
12 15 33m Traditionell
Traditionell 330m Klassiker
Harrie Van de Linde
what an absolute MISSION this climb was. ever since seeing Dyl and Lee on it, the same time last year, we knew we had to Do it. it just looks at you when walking up from the carpark, its a must do for anyone brave enough. with Khush And Sam in the other pair, the 4 of us set off around 8am for the mega line climb of the weekend, with the hot sun coming up, it was going to be a long day. bashed around and finally found the start about 1030 I think. as Ashton wasn't leading I had to do every pitch, which was a struggle after a while, but well worth the push on. i was in front so some of the pitches I left gear in the climb for the others to lead on, which helped them, but made us all quiet slw together. first 4 or 5 were pretty good with the pitch 6 traverse being super exposed, I was told I took the line to high but except for the heinous drag, ended quite well. after that I think I did part of Pegesus, some sick corner finger crack, that Ashton really struggled on, but everything else was cruizy. until we got to the top in the dark and didn't remember where the rap was, took quite a while to figure out it was on the other summit. and then 1 hour turned to 2, then 4, then we were at camp at 2am. soo when you're out of water for 4 hours and not thinking too clearly, time just goes on. but all went physically well, and we got up the next day for another one!!

 
So 31. Mär 2024 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Jords Traditionell 95m Sehr gut
Harrie Van de Linde
pretty good, Jordan got on his first lead for a while, then I finished the rest in a 55m and 15m pitch. after the epic the day before, getting off was super easy, and got back to camp at like 4pm.

 
Mo 25. Mär 2024 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo Traditionell 95m
saxon
Sa 2. Mär 2024 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire North Face
17 Caucasus Corner - mit Khush Dodhia-Shah Traditionell 330m
Sam Tidswell
Mi 27. Dez 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Simon Bolton Traditionell 95m Sehr gut
Bill Bolton
Sa 28. Okt 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Anthony Larbalestier Traditionell 95m Sehr gut
Craig George
10 Vertigo - mit Craig George Traditionell 95m Sehr gut
Anthony Larbalestier
More difficult than expected to find the start but well worth it. Nice easy climbing and good intro to the warrumbungles

 
Mi 18. Okt 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Rory Hentshel, Jordan Cater
1 15m Traditionell
2 35m Traditionell
3 30m Traditionell
4 15m Traditionell
Traditionell 95m
Michael 'Monty' Burns
Easier and nicer rock quality than Cornerstone Rib. Half day mission. Had to make some real decisions about where to climb, emotional support small nut to protect crux on pitch 3. Linked pitches 3 and 4 to top out right next to the logbook. Careful of the minefield of loose rocks at the top. Description is rather vague compared to sport climbs, it was a unique experience feeling lost while at the top of a 300m spire, rescue techniques would be complicated. Highly recommend!

 
So 15. Okt 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Jordan Cater, Michael 'Monty' Burns
1 15m Traditionell
2 35m Traditionell
3 30m Traditionell
4 15m Traditionell
Traditionell 95m
Rory Hentshel
Less loose blocks than CSR which was nice. Approx 6.5hrs round trip from the hut, climbing as a party of 3. Didn't really see much looking diagonally right on P2 so just went up following the good gear.

 
10 Vertigo - mit Michael 'Monty' Burns, Rory Hentshel Traditionell 95m Sehr gut
Jordan Cater
Another lovely adventure!!! Excellent, solid rock, with nice blocky slab moves on mostly edges/pulls. Excellent leads again by Rory Hentshel, with Michael 'Monty' Burns linking the final two pitches to take us to the summit! Beware - loose rock and scree for the finish.

 
Di 25. Jul 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Riley Bradford Traditionell 95m Sehr gut
Jordon
10 Vertigo - mit Jordon
1 15 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Riley Bradford
2 35 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Jordon
3 30 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Riley Bradford
4 15 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Jordon
Traditionell 95m Sehr gut
Riley Bradford
Awesome introduction to the Bungles! Approach and descent were sufficiently straightforward. The climb itself had good pro throughout and travelled nicely up the face. So cool to top out and then scramble across to the true summit for magnificent views across the range!

From Balor Hut, we had a 45 min approach, 3hr 15 min climbing, 30 mins at the summit, and 2hr descent and hike back. 6.5hr all up.

 
Fr 21. Jul 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo
1 15m Traditionell
2 35m Traditionell
3 30m Nachstieg
4 15m Nachstieg
Traditionell 95m
Andrew Grech
14 Endeavour Face
1 Nachstieg
2 Nachstieg
3 Traditionell
4 Traditionell
Traditionell 80m
Andrew Grech
Had to bail due to weather conditions.

 
So 16. Jul 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire North Face
17 Caucasus Corner - mit alyssa smirnov
1 14 45 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Blueoffset4lyf
2 17 26 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Blueoffset4lyf
3 13 36 Traditionell Vorstieg durch alyssa smirnov
4 16 28 Traditionell Vorstieg durch alyssa smirnov
5 14 21 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Blueoffset4lyf
6 15 33 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Blueoffset4lyf
7 15 24 Traditionell Vorstieg durch alyssa smirnov
8 14 18 Traditionell Vorstieg durch alyssa smirnov
9 14 24 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Blueoffset4lyf
10 14 21 Traditionell Vorstieg durch alyssa smirnov
11 14 21 Traditionell Vorstieg durch alyssa smirnov
12 15 33 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Blueoffset4lyf
Traditionell 330m Mega-Klassiker
Blueoffset4lyf
I knew I was going to climb on Belogery spire from the moment I first laid eyes on it.

This route takes in some dramatic features and amazing positions on what in my eyes is the most striking rock in the park.

Full value all the way.

I like this route more than flight of the Phoenix.

Big loose adventure on a big loose rock 🤌

 
Mo 3. Jul 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo Traditionell 95m
cat
Di 20. Jun 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Yim Traditionell 95m
Caroline Dinon
Mo 12. Jun 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Dave Cook Traditionell 95m Sehr gut
Ryan Macpherson
3rd time up Belougery, fun approach! 3/3

17hr20min car to car

 
Do 4. Mai 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit John, Peter Melouney Traditionell 95m
Christian Pilarcik
10 Vertigo - mit John, Christian Pilarcik Traditionell 95m Sehr gut
Peter Melouney
Great first bungles multi

 
10 Vertigo - mit Christian Pilarcik, Peter Melouney
1 50 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Peter Melouney
2 45 Traditionell
Traditionell 95m Klassiker
John
What a crazy place to be, on top of Belougery Spire! Feels like a real mountain.

3am left Sydney, 4pm hiking back to the hut. I’ll take it!

 
Fr 14. Apr 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Toby Holmes
1 15 Traditionell
2 35 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Toby Holmes
3 30 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Toby Holmes
4 15 Traditionell
Traditionell 95m Klassiker
Theo Holmes
Totally rad. First multi-pitch.

 
Do 13. Apr 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
14 Endeavour Face - mit Harrie Van de Linde
1 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Harrie Van de Linde
2 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Harrie Van de Linde
3 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Khush Dodhia-Shah
4 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Khush Dodhia-Shah
Traditionell 80m Sehr gut
Khush Dodhia-Shah
Was super fun, stoked to get on my first multi mission in the Bungles! a little wandery, but fund to lead the top half!! Yew cheers Hazbob was dope fun, got back to camp accomplished at 9pm ahaha

 
Mi 12. Apr 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Nick Kress Traditionell 95m
Isaac Buckingham
Fun easy way to get to the top of the spire, fun day out

 
10 Vertigo Traditionell 95m Klassiker
Angus Thompson
Di 11. Apr 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Nick Gresham Traditionell 95m
Joshua Malherbe
A nice break for some easy exposure. very classic

 
So 9. Apr 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire South East Face
15 Hope lost, Hope found - mit Nick Gresham Traditionell 300m
Joshua Malherbe
So 9. Apr 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Nick, Josh, isaac Traditionell 95m Sehr gut
Jords
Beautiful! Last pitch was awesome fun, on e I stopped thinking about the height.

 
Sa 8. Apr 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
14 Endeavour Face - mit Khush Dodhia-Shah Traditionell 80m Sehr gut
Harrie Van de Linde
what a great route to introduce khush to the Bungles. we definitely started right but as the whole wall was quite easy we may have wandered into Vertigo a little but that's fine as it was a great climb, Loved it. hoping to do a lot more at the bungles, all over this place!!!

 
Sa 8. Apr 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire South East Face
15 Hope lost, Hope found - mit Joshua Malherbe
1 Freies Solo
2 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Joshua Malherbe
3 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Nick Gresham
4 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Joshua Malherbe
5 Freies Solo
6 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Joshua Malherbe
7 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Nick Gresham

Chimney is absolutely top notchhhhh

8 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Joshua Malherbe
9 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Joshua Malherbe
10 Traditionell Vorstieg durch Nick Gresham

Highly recommend traversing 10m further right to much larger ledge with better gear and less death blocks. You should also be able to do the last pitch to the summit with a 60m if you do this.

11 Nachstieg Vorstieg durch Joshua Malherbe

SUMMIT OR BUST!

Traditionell 300m
Nick Gresham
Absolutely mega day out. Started the day looking for out and beyond but accidently ended up on this old school route. Wasn't sure about logging it as we're sure someone has done something very similar before, but the chimney was too classic we had to let the people know! Would love to do it again to double check the grades when not completely gripped

 
Sa 8. Apr 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Average Climber
1 15m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Average Climber
2 35m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Average Climber
3 30m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Dan Kozianski
4 15m Traditionell Vorstieg durch Dan Kozianski
Traditionell 95m Sehr gut
Dan Kozianski
Windy! Done in 2 pitches

 
Sa 8. Apr 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire North Face
15 Pegasus - mit Richard Stubbs Traditionell 260m
Sean Kelly
Deserves way more love! Has some super memorable moves, crazy exposure and the rock gets better the higher you climb. A great day out, get on it!

 
Sa 8. Apr 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Richard Stubbs Traditionell 95m Sehr gut
Sean Kelly
Do 6. Apr 2023 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire North Face
17 Caucasus Corner - mit Lee Prescott
1 14 45m Nachstieg
2 17 26m Nachstieg
3 13 36m Traditionell
4 16 28m Nachstieg
5 14 21m Traditionell
6 15 33m Nachstieg
7 15 24m Traditionell
8 14 18m Traditionell
9 14 24m Nachstieg
10 14 21m Nachstieg
11 14 21m Traditionell
12 15 33m Traditionell
Traditionell 330m Mega-Klassiker
Dylan Glavas
MEGA CLASSIC, what an epic route and such a cool story behind it. Lee's first bungles route and my first time on the spire, how do we start? An eency microdose of acid of course. Walking in was insane, started at 11am all I could do was admire the length of the spire, we met some hikers on the way and got some pics with them . On the approach Lee told me about the mythology behind Prometheus and how he was bound at the top of the spire, where his liver was eaten everyday by an eagle as punishment for giving fire to humanity. This created the awesome story of 2 young boys approaching the spire, hoping to reach the top to free Prometheus.

After finding the start and admiring possible FAs on the way in Lee took off up the first pitch, "FUCK, thats a hard move for a 14" he exclaims. He had linked pitches 1 & 2. Sitting in the chimney slightly right of the nice ledge Lee dropped his ATC to the deck, we stare at it in disbelief as it crashes down against the rocks only to disappear into the bush. "You silly cunt" hahahhahahaha. After rapping down the ATC was found and we could continue on the mission, the flow was there and the 3rd pitch was super cruisy jugs to the base of the big corner, the next pitch was also awesome and I topped out onto the grassy ledge, only to do a bit of bush bashing and then come back down. Lee climbs up, Dylan: "Hey bro I think you have to do that high traverse there", Lee: "WHAT THE FUCK! ARE YOU TRYING TO KILL ME!" We discussed the line and Lee took the sketchy looking lower traverse, and luckily did not try and go high. We had our mates calling out to us for a little bit, calls of encouragement from the walk in all the way to balor. WOOOOOOOOOO.

I then climbed the imposing chossy corner and finally found a sweet belay. "It's a bit cold but once you get around this arete youll be sweet", Lee climbed on a 45 degree angle and onto the arete "HOLY FUCK ITS A WIND TUNNEL AROUND HERE", stitched up. From the next belay we thought we had 3 pitches left, when I climbed on and found some overhangs I realised we were on the last pitch. We finally topped out at maybe 830pm, wrote in the book, sorted out the rap and made it to camp at 1130pm. Took soem freeze dried meals up the hill, cooked em up, smoked, drank wine and let out a mighty sigh. Climb of the trip.

 
Fr 30. Sep 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Alice Wisse Traditionell 95m
Patrick Everitt
Done in two pitches

 
10 Vertigo - mit Patrick Everitt Traditionell 95m Klassiker
Alice Wisse
Do 29. Sep 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
20 Peregrine - mit Simmo Traditionell 55m Sehr gut
Rick Webb
Do 29. Sep 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire North Face
20 Fan Tail - mit Rick_Web Traditionell 48m Sehr gut
Simmo
Thought this line looked like a cruisy grade 15 ish for a ground up first ascent.... in classic bungles style it proved vastly more involved.... after navigating and cleaning off loads of snappy holds as I went, and huffing and puffing for an age below the crux trying different sequences and pulling all those holds off, I had to take a rest with a stonking pump.

After a sit and a think I was able to get through the cryptic and commiting crux and almost got spat off fighting my way into the final streno moves and finger crack ! Super.

Can't wait to go back and do it when the rock is all solid as it's a super fun and engaging sporty trad route.

 
Mo 19. Sep 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire North Face
20 Fan Tail - mit Simmo Traditionell 48m
Rick Webb
20 Meet Me At The Crux - mit Simmo Traditionell 80m
Rick Webb
So 18. Sep 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire North Face
20 Meet Me At The Crux - mit Rick_Webb Traditionell 80m Sehr gut
Simmo
FFA. So hard to tell what the grade on Bungles rock will be !! haha

Launched up this as my eye was caught be the the finger crack and corners high up on the second pitch.

On this my 4th trip in the Bungles I felt like I found a little bit of Bungles rock one-ness and was comfy enough to quest up through some appauling rock and dicey moves.

Rick did a steller ground up ascent of the first pitch through some similarly dicely and loose and committing moves.

 
Fr 22. Jul 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
6 Tourist Traverse - mit Geoffrey Traditionell 130m Klassiker
Steven Smith
Highly recommend, very fun climb.

 
Do 21. Jul 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire North Face
17 Caucasus Corner - mit yim daz and benny Traditionell 330m Klassiker
Jack Seawright
Started the day with a heinous bushbash that regrettably didnt need to be done. Found the start before darren and ben arrived but darren still overtook me on belay. He ran out of rope in an inconvenient little groove which made passing him fun "i hate it here". I had yelled out to yim telling him to move left on his pitch to go up the rib as prescribed but doctors orders were neglected and yim chartered his way across some runout face and somehow refound the route. We stopped for lunch on the pith 5 landing where darren later admitted he tried every manipulative conversation techniques to sneak him and ben ahead of us. They didnt need to in the end, yim went way too low on the traverse and started shedding the cliff so ben was able to 'offer to help us by skipping ahead' for the traverse. This pitch was fantastic and yim loudly proclaimed his love for benny for the photo he got from above of yim leading across. A little later on, ben ran into trouble when a peg lead him into a choss field he started knocking rocks and i sought refuge under a massive detached block that he was standing on, while 12m runout diahonally from the corner. Serious sketch levels for abit but most importantly, this allowed me to take the lead again! I belayed on a broken ledge in the corner and shot yim off onto the north face while darren got his boys lost again and making us unpassable. I quested the last 3 pitches with one rope and we were at the top of the spire. I thought the days sandbagging was finally over but i was wrong! Will and greg had earlier rapped the descent (same for vertigo) and told me id be fine to skip the first chains. Didnt make it to the second chains and had to tether to a tree and hang off it. Benny lead us through the traverse off the bottom of the spire.. i dont know how he could continue to be confident in his orienteering skills after the day gone, but he was right this time. The boys had the fire and fireball ready for us back at the hut. A classic day

 
Mi 20. Jul 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Greg Carter Traditionell 95m
Will West
Lazy start today, rambled up the approach which had epic views of the bungles and an incredible view of cornerstone rib which had us pretty chuffed with what we had done the day prior. Greg led the first pitch and overshot the belay slightly, though it wasn't too obvious where the intended belay was meant to be. Entirely in the shade it was like climbing on ice in the wind. I geared up for my lead which I expected to be cut short as we were half way up pitch 2, I instead returned the favour by getting completely off route and completing the entire climb in a ~55m rope stretcher pitch, surprisingly little drag considering. Was epic climbing even though we were completely off route. Wonder how it compares to the real vertigo.

Rap down was entirely in the sun, and doing 30m raps on ropes without a halfway marker isn't so fun when you're layered up in the heat. Accidentally threaded the rope through my atc and didn't realize until Greg was down, Fuck. Pull the rope, throw it, rope utterly tangled in a tree, Fuck. Pull the rope entirely, thread the second rope through, deal with no middle marker faff, free the other rope, scramble home. The ability to watch Jack and Yim summit caucus from the hut was pretty epic. Might've set a record for beta spraying the rap audibly from a kilometer away.

 
Di 19. Jul 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Will
1 10 15m Vorstieg durch Greg Carter
2 15m Vorstieg durch Greg Carter
3 50m Vorstieg durch Will
4 10m Vorstieg durch Greg Carter
Traditionell 90m
Greg Carter
Mo 18. Jul 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Jarrah Turner Traditionell 95m Sehr gut
James Hockey
Hiked in and climbed on day 1. Good lil adventure to warm up into the bigger stuff.

 
Fr 15. Jul 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit James Hockey Traditionell 95m Gut
Jarrah Turner
Great intro to the Bungles rock.

 
So 12. Jun 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire North Face
17 Caucasus Corner (Caucasus Corner Linkup P3 first half) - mit Oliver McDonald
1 14 45m
2 17 46m Verbindung P3 first half
3 13 16m
4 16 49m Verbindung P5
Traditionell 160m
Nat
late start from Pincham carpark. Bailed from halfway ledge before sunset

 
Mo 23. Mai 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Sammy
1 10 15m Vorstieg durch Stephen Roche
2 35m Vorstieg durch Sammy
3 45m Vorstieg durch Stephen Roche
Traditionell 95m
Stephen Roche
Fr 29. Apr 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit LumpyCam
1 10 15m Vorstieg durch LumpyCam
2 35m Vorstieg durch Jarrad Aurisch
3 30m Vorstieg durch LumpyCam
4 15m Vorstieg durch LumpyCam
Traditionell 95m
Jarrad Aurisch
10 Vertigo - mit Jarrad Aurisch
1 10 15m
2 35m Vorstieg durch Jarrad Aurisch
3 30m
4 15m
Traditionell 95m
LumpyCam
Di 22. Mär 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Jay
1 10 78m Vorstieg durch Alex Mantaut
2 Vorstieg durch Alex Mantaut
3 Vorstieg durch Jay
4 Vorstieg durch Jay
Traditionell 78m Sehr gut
Alex Mantaut
Linked pitch 1&2, and 3&4. Pretty cruisy climb for a rest day.

 
Mo 21. Mär 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Adam Cufer
1 10 50m Vorstieg durch Chris Lam
2 10 45m Vorstieg durch Chris Lam
Traditionell 95m Mega-Klassiker
Chris Lam
Great rest day. Linked the first 2 and last 2 pitches with some careful drag management.

Got lost on the approach even though I'd been here before 😅

 
10 Vertigo - mit Alex Mantaut
1 10 78m Vorstieg durch Alex Mantaut
2 Vorstieg durch Alex Mantaut
3 Vorstieg durch Jay
4 Vorstieg durch Jay
Traditionell 78m Gut
Jay
Did it in two pitches with Alex

 
10 Vertigo - mit Chris Lam Traditionell 95m Gut
Adam Cufer
Fr 18. Feb 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo
1 15 Traditionell
2 35 Nachstieg
3 30 Traditionell
4 15 Traditionell
Traditionell 95m
Miri Schroeter
Do 17. Feb 2022 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Miri Schroeter
1 10 78m Vorstieg durch Miri Schroeter
2 Vorstieg durch Jimmy O'Reilly
3 Vorstieg durch Jimmy O'Reilly
4 Vorstieg durch Miri Schroeter
Traditionell 78m Klassiker
Jimmy O'Reilly
Mi 22. Dez 2021 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Brendan Coulter, Rachael Brock Traditionell 95m Klassiker
Michael Houghton
In two pitches. I lead the first to the ledge, Brendan lead to the top.

 
Sa 25. Sep 2021 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Jack Murray, Clive Traditionell 95m
Nikala Murray
10 Vertigo - mit Clive, Nikala Murray Traditionell 95m Klassiker
Jack Murray
Mi 30. Jun 2021 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo Traditionell 95m Klassiker
Gavin
Lovely route, quite chill by bungles standards with lovely views and good rock. Highly recommended.

 
Di 15. Jun 2021 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo Traditionell 95m
Finn Irving
Di 11. Mai 2021 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo Traditionell 95m Sehr gut
maaddzzyy
Mi 21. Apr 2021 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo Traditionell 95m
TC
Fr 16. Apr 2021 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Nate Taiaroa
1 10 78m Vorstieg durch Nate Taiaroa
2 Vorstieg durch Dan Johnson
3 Vorstieg durch Dan Johnson
4 Vorstieg durch Nate Taiaroa
Traditionell 78m Klassiker
Dan Johnson
The third pitch was my favourite lead of the whole week. It really made the trip for me. The exposure on the traverse, beautiful holds and some hidden protection just put the icing on the cake for me. Would be a great introduction for your first climb. Others of our crew were on this so we bit off something bigger. No regrets. Was the perfect ending to an epic week of adventure. Also great to get another perspective of the park from this angle. Also nice not leading everything and having a cruisy day

 
Mo 12. Apr 2021 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
14 Endeavour Face Traditionell 80m Sehr gut
Bao Duong
Exciting first climb in the bungles. Amazing face with some fun moves on the second and third pitch.

 
Sa 20. Mär 2021 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo Traditionell 95m Klassiker
Kalang Kedumba Jones
Lovely climb with decent gear (mostly). It was totally worth bringing tea and summit cake to enjoy the sunset with, otherwise it wouldn’t have been a real epic - think nighttime simul-rap through a spider infested gully with dying torches and a temporarily lost go pro... shoutout to my sponser the Hominy bakery (Katoomba) who provided the goodies

 
Mi 17. Mär 2021 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire North Face
16 Napawi Traditionell 270m Klassiker
Hotplate Hillier
Fr 15. Jan 2021 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo Traditionell 95m
TC
Di 12. Jan 2021 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo Traditionell 95m Sehr gut
Ryan Macpherson
Perfect day out, felt in total control the entire day! Ran up Bluff Mountain after to enjoy the views I didn’t get after being benighted 2018 on ‘FOTP’ back to the car in under 6hrs

 
Mi 6. Jan 2021 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire South East Face
10 East Face Route Traditionell 150m
TC
Di 29. Dez 2020 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Zi Hui Lie
1 10 50m Vorstieg durch Anton Korsun
2 10 40m Vorstieg durch Zi Hui Lie
Traditionell 90m
Anton Korsun
Climbed in 2 pitches.

While theCrag quotes its length as 78m, you get more when adding the top slab, the "approach" and the detour to the main summit.

We got to the start via the tourist route. Not sure if thats the right way, but it seemed obvious.

 
Di 20. Okt 2020 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo Traditionell 95m Gut
Luke Hef
So 18. Okt 2020 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo Traditionell 95m Klassiker
Boyd Robinson
Lovely crux pitch ; )

 
Di 13. Okt 2020 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo Traditionell 95m Klassiker
Nikhilesh Sharma
Mi 7. Okt 2020 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire North Face
17 Caucasus Corner / Pegasus Link up Traditionell 260m Klassiker
Anzhela Malysheva
Mo 5. Okt 2020 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo Traditionell 95m Mega-Klassiker
Flynn Howley
10 Vertigo - mit Nikhilesh Sharma Traditionell 95m
Luke C
So 4. Okt 2020 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Amanda Chan Traditionell 95m Klassiker
Nicolas Di Campli
So much back and forth about whether we were going to do this, so glad we stepped up to the plate. Fantastic feature and a wonderful introduction to the Bungles.

Walk-in was more challenging than the climbing at times, but it's still a bit of a sandbag at 10 - welcome to the Bungles! We both had a moment on the walk-in: me getting up the first gully with a 4m unprotected fall potential (I built an anchor for Manda), and her during the exposed scramble (pretty safe though) to the base of the climb.

The climb itself was fantastic, I led every pitch as Manda wasn't confident with anchors and we figured Bungles wasn't the best place to practice. For P2 I stayed in the corner cracks as it seemed more obvious and logical than escaping to the face - some fun, spicy moves to escpape the corner to the Tourist Traverse. P3 may be one of my favourite pitches ever (if only the good bit was longer!) - incredible climbing on perfectly placed hands and feet, with bomber protection and exposure (meaning sick air if you fell), up increasingly improbable and blank terrain. Frothing!!!

Sunset at the top of the pinnacle will be burned into my brain until the day I die - unbelievably beautiful, so much that I didn't even care we would have to walk out in the dark. One of my happiest days on Earth, and some of my favourite memories. Thanks for the stoke and belays Manda!

Gear beta: double set small nuts, single set large nuts, single set offsets, 2x 0.3 - 2 cams, 1x 3 cam is more than enough, plus as many alpines as you can get your hands on.

 
Sa 3. Okt 2020 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
14 Endeavour Face - mit Blake Hawkins
1 14 Vorstieg durch Blake Hawkins
2 Vorstieg durch rickau
Traditionell 80m Sehr gut
rickau
2 pitch linkup. Middle pitches are fun on bomber rock which is a contrast to a lot of the other climbs in the bungles. Walk in and out takes a bit of time.

 
Di 29. Sep 2020 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Hayden L
1 10 78m Vorstieg durch Hayden L
2 Vorstieg durch Hayden L
3 Vorstieg durch Mac Labine-Romain
4 Vorstieg durch Hayden L
Traditionell 78m
Mac Labine-Romain
3rd day of climbing in the bungles and our third peak! walking up to it, you feel it a bit intimated but the climbing is joyful and the rock is solid. top of P3 was an absolute delight and definitely makes into my top 10 belay positions

 
Do 24. Sep 2020 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Marie Traditionell 95m Klassiker
Ryan Holmes
Nice climbing and much better rock than Cornerstone. 2 pitches. Hard to get too but worth it for the peak bagging

 
Do 16. Jul 2020 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
6 Tourist Traverse Traditionell 130m Mega-Klassiker
Nick Withford
Mo 13. Jul 2020 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Rory Gill, Sid Tinney
1 10 78m Vorstieg durch Sid Tinney
2 Vorstieg durch Sid Tinney
3
4
Traditionell 78m Klassiker
Sid Tinney
Such a great intro to Bungles climbing - thoroughly recommended if this is your first time here, especially given the short length and straightforward descent.

P1+2 are worth linking, start is pretty direct.

Weather was looking questionable but passable - until just below the Tourist Traverse, where we got utterly punted by a storm system and finished the climb in sideways rain. The clouds cleared briefly as we topped out - before setting back in and pelting us with hail all the way down! We were very, very happy to see that some hikers staying at Balor hut had started the stove, and were able to dry out our sopping gear and ropes.

Bit of an adventure for such an simple plan!

 
Do 2. Jul 2020 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit hugh sutherland Traditionell 95m
Levi Worden
So 21. Jun 2020 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
8 Dr Dark's Chimney (Dr Dark's Chimney Linkup In the spirit moveth)
1 8 120m Verbindung In the spirit moveth
2
3
4
Traditionell 120m
Nathan Mas-Stephens
Started on if the spirit moveth. Had Lots of drag. Then onto Dr. Darks Chimney. Really enjoyed the climb. Lots of half dead trees to dodge once on the chimney. Hexs were great for the chimney. Turned headtorch on at the second abseil point. Back on ground in darkness.

 
Mo 8. Jun 2020 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Zack, Damien Boorman, Drew Ivison Traditionell 95m Sehr gut
James Harrington
A good line to start with at the Bungles. Great easy climbing and good gear. The views at the top are amazing and the walk in gives a good spy of Cornerstone.

 
6 Dr Dark's Chimney - mit Nathan Mas-Stephens Traditionell 120m Gut
Nathanael Edwards
Used a single 70m for the whole climb. Great first trad climb with my own rack. Heaps of options for protection. We topped out at 5:30pm in June meaning we finished our abseil under the stars.

 
10 Vertigo Traditionell 95m
Zin
Di 18. Feb 2020 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Chris Baker Traditionell 95m
Rachel Friedman
10 Vertigo - mit Rachel Friedman Traditionell 95m Sehr gut
Chris Baker
Lovely climbing in the monring shade, although I didn't find the intended way on pitch 3 and ended up climbing somewhere between the tourist traverse and vertigo.

 
Di 31. Dez 2019 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo Traditionell 95m Sehr gut
Marcus Hall
Sa 26. Okt 2019 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Ian S
1 10 78m
2
3
4
Traditionell 78m Sehr gut
George Kenelm Kerswell
Spent a few hours finding it, although it felt obvious once we did. A lightening storm passed over after Ian had started pitch one, which was disconcerting to say the least, but the rock dried quickly once it stopped. I led the second pitch and then we ran the last two together. Fun climb with good protection.

 
So 28. Jul 2019 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
14 Endeavour Face - mit Hayden L
1 14 80m
2
3
4
Traditionell 80m Sehr gut
Sid Tinney
We definitely were on P1 (solid lead by Jenny, especially bulling around the bulge!) That move in particular felt more than 14, but that's part of the fun around here. After that, no idea what happened to the rest of the route.

I led P2 onwards, but didn't find anything resembling a thread anchor. Pushed up through the shrubby gully, stepping left onto the top slab to catch some of the morning sun - and eventually just topped out battling heinous rope drag due to the bad choice of clipping both ropes below the small gully.

Still good fun, especially P1 - might give it another go next time and try to climb it properly!

 
Fr 26. Jul 2019 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Hayden L, Jenny S
1 10 78m
2
3 Vorstieg durch Hayden L
4 Vorstieg durch Sid Tinney
Traditionell 78m Sehr gut
Sid Tinney
As the description says, a worthwhile intro to Bungles climbing. Also just a fun route, and not to be taken too lightly at the grade. Jenny combined P1+2, should have combined P3+4 but Hayden generously gave me the glorified scramble pitch to the top!

Twin ropes well worth it out here.

 
Mi 26. Jun 2019 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Tom Semple Traditionell 95m Klassiker
Marta Vidal Garcia
So 26. Mai 2019 - Warrumbungles
Belougery Spire West Face
10 Vertigo - mit Geoff Tosio, Caritta Tosio Traditionell 95m
Match
Geoff got the money pitch and to make it up to him I launched some boulders off at him! Take that!

 

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