Routen in Mt Oberon

Right hand side of the rock, follow chossy chimney on the back and top out steeply on the headwall. Descend onto exposed slab and walk off.

"A worm in your apple isn't great, but it's better than only half a worm" The obvious corner seen from the drive up to Oberon carpark. Reasonable quality rock and good gear up a sustained corner crack.

'From the summit of Mount Oberon, drop down right towards the road. At the edge, find a 1.5m square block. (At the base of this are two lines of weakness.) Scramble down the gully (on the right) to the base of this cliff, move left to a prominent gum tree and the climb is directly above. Start up the line from the undercut area. Follow the line, veering left. When the crack becomes heavily vegetated, move out left onto the arete, then up to the block.'

'Start 2m left of the undercut. Go up traversing diagonally right into the line. (this avoids the undercut start).'

As the name suggests, written up to ensure others aren't tempted. The main weakness of the giant pillar that divides Left Side and Right Side. Step across to 2m of enjoyable climbing at the top.

Difficult and awkward climbing at start. Easy face above. One of the better routes here!

Alternative start to 'Not Just A Pretty Face'

Second pitch can be linked into the first for a larger pitch. You can also lower off at the first belay. You will also need to clean it!

The line of BK can clearly be seen as the left hand skyline of the Summit of Mount Oberon from the campground at Tidal River. The second pitch follows the rib that is in actual fact the top of the huge flake obvious from sea level.

1. 30m. Start below the right hand of two cracks in the wall behind the huge boulder at the bottom of the crag. Climb this crack over the easing angle and then continue straight up until a short traverse left leads to a block and belay at the bottom of a lightly vegetated fist wide crack and broken rib.

2. 10m. Climb the crack above stepping onto the rib after a few meters. Continue cautiously over less perfect rock up the cracked rib to the top. Good belay in crack and small tree. Descend by continuing to summit track.

Starts as for "Big Kiss". Can be broken into 2 pitches to reduce rope drag (either at first crack after traverse or at the top crack at the lower rib). This original start eliminates the closing offwidth crack start.

Start below the right of the two cracks in the wall in front of the huge boulder at the bottom of the crag as for "Big Kiss". Climb this crack over the easing angle and then traverse right over slab to join left facing crack (SS DS). Starts tending left up to horizontal break, and follows the water stain across small holds (slippery after rain).

The route then joins the start of right tending crack just above the vegetation in the rib over easing ground for 10m to the lower of 2 old rusted Parks Victoria fence/sign poles. Belay at end of the crack.

Walk off toward summit and join track.

Starts down lower, 10m right of "Big Kiss". Can be broken into 2 pitches to reduce rope drag (either at first crack after traverse or at the top crack at the lower rib).

Starts at base of flake, up steep wall for 5m and onto easing angle continuing to follow crack. SS then follows the water stain across small holds (slippery after rain) staying left of the steep wall to right. Up this stain to join the right facing crack above the vegetation.

Above the vegetation in the rib over easing ground for 10m to the lower of 2 old rusted Parks Victoria fence/sign poles. Belay at end of the crack.

Walk off toward summit and join track.

Tall diagonal arete on the southern edge of the boulder.