A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1.
Little Oberon
45 in Area
- 1.1. Lone Pillars 0 in Area
-
1.2.
South Norman Beach Boulders 10 in Crag
- 1.2.1. Bumpy Boulders 5 in Area
- 1.2.2. Warmup slab area 5 in Area
- 1.3. 'The Pocket' Alcove 1 in Area
- 1.4. Quarter Dome 9 in Area
- 1.5. Surf-Side Slabs 0 in Crag
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1.6.
Eagle Slabs 0 in Crag
- 1.6.1. Main Cliff 0 in Cliff
- 1.6.2. Lower Cliff 0 in Cliff
- 1.7. Trackside Wall 4 in Area
- 1.8. Little Oberon Slabs 21 in Area
- 1.9. The Outpost 0 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Little Oberon 45 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Klettern, traditionelles Klettern und Bouldern
Lat / Long: -39.045227, 146.327891
- Be friendly and respectful to other park users, and especially to any Park Rangers
- Please respect camping and no-fire rules
- NO BOLTS - Bolting is prohibited within Wilsons Prom
- Brush ticks
- Keep all off-track activities to a minimum
- Chipping holds or marking the start of climbs is prohibited
- 'Gardening' is prohibited (removal or damage to vegetation on climbs)
- Access the cliffs using existing paths and if appropriate descend by abseil rather than scrambling
Einschränkungen
A free permit is required to climb in this National Park. This can be obtained from the information center. If the ranger is unsure about the permit tell them it is at the far right of their counter (there are lots of casual rangers working here who are unsure of all the processes). It is a simple form to fill out solely for emergency purposes. Parks Victoria only recognizes the following locations as climbing areas at the Prom:
-Mt Bishop
-Elephant Rock
-Mt Oberon
-Little Oberon (Trackside Wall)
-Turtle Rock.
There are no access issues for bouldering at beaches.
Ethik
UPDATED 2024: Projects will remain closed for one year from the date of upload. If not completed after one year, the route is open for others to attempt.
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1.1. Lone Pillars 0 routes in Area
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1.2. South Norman Beach Boulders 10 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Alle Bouldern
Lat / Long: -39.042151, 146.325421
Beschreibung
An interesting variety of slab, face and even some (and potentially many!) overhung boulder problems. To access the furthest boulders its best to go at low-mid tide.
There were a variety of very steep climbs that were either too hard, in desperate need of a brush, or too difficult to protect that definitely looked possible if someone stronger/bolder than I were to try.
There is also a possibility of more boulders existing further along the beach than I explored
Zustieg
From tidal river walk to norman beach and head south all the way to the end where the obvious beach boulders are. The routes are listed from closest to furthest from the beach line at high tide with bumpy boulders being right at the end.
1.2.1. Bumpy Boulders 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -39.042599, 146.324933
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★★ Apple Picking
Up the nicely featured arete, sit starting with opposed pockets and up using hold on both sides of the arete. Best climb in the area so far! Unsure of grade Erstbegehung: Brynn Clayton | V6/7 | ||||||
| 2 |
★★ Pear Picking
Crouch/sit start with right hand on a good flat edge with left on a smaller flat edge. Go straight up topping out on big holds. Erstbegehung: 26 Mär 2023 | V2 | 3m | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Snap
stand start on slopey left sidepull and tiny right crimp. reachy moves lead to a reachy topout! shares a handhold with Medua-Lite but remains a distinctly different climb Erstbegehung: Brynn Clayton | V5 | ||||||
| 4 |
★★ Medusa-Lite
stand start with the large-ish pocket for your left hand, deadpoint out right and follow the crack to top out Erstbegehung: Brynn Clayton | V4 | ||||||
| 5 |
Easy (?) Project
Sit start and follow up the solid-seeming flake. Multiple mats and a spotter recommended. seemed good and likely easy | |||||||
1.2.2. Warmup slab area 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -39.041800, 146.325781
Beschreibung
the area between and including the first large slabby boulder (warmup slab) and the second (Show-off)
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Warmup slab
sit start move from right to left and top out. Alternatively, just use the many holds of this wall to traverse back and forth to warmup, could even make some cool eliminations Erstbegehung: Brynn Clayton | V2 | ||||||
| 2 |
★ Walk on the beach
Traverse the flake to the top. Erstbegehung: Dan, 5 Nov 2021 | V1 | ||||||
| 3 |
★★ The Strained Rail
felt vaguely reminiscent of the straining rail at Macedon. Sit start and strain up the rail to a somewhat kitty-littery topout, could benefit from a brush on the second half Erstbegehung: Brynn Clayton | V5 | ||||||
| 4 |
★ Barefoot
Stand start to avoid sea-life. Straight up sloping jugs to top out. Erstbegehung: Dan, 5 Nov 2021 | V2 | ||||||
| 5 |
★ Show-off
stand start (to avoid killing the sealife on the rock) and go through and up the blank looking section on a somewhat committing topout. Erstbegehung: Brynn Clayton | V3 | ||||||
1.3. 'The Pocket' Alcove 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
Alle traditionelles Klettern
Lat / Long: -39.042002, 146.326866
Beschreibung
Overlooks 'The Pocket' surf break
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
One For Insomnia
Poorly protected ramp. Probably okay in dry conditions but best to avoid when wet. | 11 X | 35m | |||||
1.4. Quarter Dome 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Klettern und traditionelles Klettern
Lat / Long: -39.044368, 146.328104
Übersicht
Please be aware of a possible 'death block' in the lower part of the wall.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | ★ No Land In Sight | 18 | 60m | |||||
| 2 | Southern Swell | 12 | 35m | |||||
| 3 | Haul Away | 16 | 35m | |||||
| 4 | Squall | 17 | 35m | |||||
| 5 | Dirty Creature | 16 | 30m | |||||
| 6 | Shark Attack | 16 | 35m | |||||
| 7 |
Lost World
Erschliesser: Grant | 6 | ||||||
| 8 |
Lost World Direct
Erschliesser: Grant, 23 Mär 2015 | 4 | ||||||
| 9 |
Super Dome
Erschliesser: Grant, 3 Jun 2015 | 7 | ||||||
 /c9/4f/c94f815a7c94ef51bc54f9cb2b2f47df8d9f766d)  |
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1.5. Surf-Side Slabs 0 routes in Crag
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1.6. Eagle Slabs 0 routes in Crag
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1.6.1. Main Cliff 0 routes in Cliff
1.6.2. Lower Cliff 0 routes in Cliff
1.7. Trackside Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Alle traditionelles Klettern
Lat / Long: -39.049693, 146.325365
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Nautical Jigsaw
Large flake-crack that starts at the steep centre area of the crag. No Gear. Up flake-crack to step off left onto the slab, then up following pockets to the top Erstbegehung: Glenn Tempest | 12 X | 65m | |||||
| 2 |
Up With The Jones'
Start as for Nautical Jigsaw, up flake-crack, step right and up wall to the top Erstbegehung: Eric Jones & Graham Jones | 12 | 65m | |||||
| 3 |
It Could Have Been Mine
Start as for Nautical Jigsaw. Up flake-crack to step right, then up wall to the top. Erstbegehung: Eric Jones & Graham Jones | 12 | 65m | |||||
| 4 |
Man Overboard
Good rock. Start at left of scrub lined terrace
Erstbegehung: Glenn Tempest, Dave McLean & Graeme Hoxley | 16 R | 65m | |||||
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1.8. Little Oberon Slabs 21 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Klettern und traditionelles Klettern
Lat / Long: -39.045824, 146.329365
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Have A Nice Day
No protection on upper pitches, around grade 5-8
Erstbegehung: Wayne Maher, John Pawson & Brendon O'Leary, 1982 | 10 R | 180m | |||||
| 2 |
Peters Out To Nothing
Good pro on first pitch, none after that. Start 3m left of the large corner near the centre of the cliff.
Erstbegehung: Geoff Butcher, 1986 | 14 | 140m | |||||
| 3 |
Peters Out To Nothing Direct Start
Climb straight up the face to join the crack direct. Erstbegehung: Glenn Tempest & Richard Smith, 1986 | 16 | 10m | |||||
| 4 |
Peters Out To Nothing Variant Start
Start 6m left Peters Out To Nothing under tree. Go up and then traverse rightwards into line Erstbegehung: Geoff Butcher, 1986 | 15 | 15m | |||||
| 5 |
Tunnel Of Love
Large crack/corner right of Peters Out To Nothing
Erstbegehung: Richard Smith, Phil Wilkins & Alan Hope, 1986 | 17 | 130m | |||||
| 6 |
Sink Or Swim
Great climbing on pronounced gold streak. Start below water streak that reaches the ground on the left side of the crag.
Erstbegehung: Glenn Tempest & Richard Smith, 1986 | 18 | 70m | |||||
| 7 |
★ Five Miles Out
Hilary Sharp and myself made the first ascent of this in 1986. Can't find my diary at the moment, but I'll add the exact date when I do. | 18 | 80m | |||||
| 8 | Taken Nasally | 15 | 70m | |||||
| 9 |
★★ Dune
Start from the top of huge block to the left of left-facing corner on the back wall
Erstbegehung: Glenn Tempest, Geoff Butcher & Richard Smith, 1986 | 15 | 90m | |||||
| 10 | Keith's Climb | 17 | 50m | |||||
| 11 | Cleared For Takeoff | 16 | 96m | |||||
| 12 | Almost | 12 | 80m | |||||
| 13 | Cracked Up | 18 | 70m | |||||
| 14 | So Far Away From Me | 18 | 65m | |||||
| 15 | Blue Beach | 18 | 65m | |||||
| 16 | Budgie Basher | 18 | 65m | |||||
| 17 | ★ Guilded Lace | 13 | 81m | |||||
| 18 | Drowning Not Waving | 12 | 60m | |||||
| 19 | Drowning Not Waving Direct Start | 14 | 20m | |||||
| 20 | Lifeguard | 17 | 30m | |||||
| 21 | On The Boardwalk | 17 | 30m | |||||
1.9. The Outpost 0 routes in Area
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